Recommendations : Books About Fashion & Designers

As Needed For Pain - Dan Peres

Spent half of my Sunday reading it and while it was by no means a disappointment or poorly written, I just came away half full. Which was pretty much my opinion of his tenure at Details. Half full. There was always that one part, that you couldn't quite put your finger on, that was missing. The images were solid, the content seemed solid, and yet.....I dunno. It's not the type of magazine that stood the test of time when you flip through it now, let me put it that way. But the ideas seemed great back then.
Anyway, for the book, it's an autobiography in the traditional sense. It starts with his cushy, sheltered childhood, the usual puberty swings through the coming of age part, and really lingers on all the awkward bits that made me squirm. It was only towards the end that I realised how necessary that was because all of it really shaped what ultimately led to his addiction with pills.
I found it really interesting, this addiction to painkillers. Probably because that sort of thing isn't really all that common in the UK and I usually associate addiction with hard narcotics. And yet the trajectory was very similar and likely lasted as long as it did because probably opioid addiction was really hard to spot back then. Either that or they were everyone around him was like Tom Ford who caught onto him yet didn't say or do anything except subtle hints.

I kept wondering why Dan appeared on all these really tacky and tabloidy talk shows to plug his book. Shows like Dr Phil and other condescending hosts who had zero clue who he was or the magazine he edited. You could tell by the generic introductions ('Let's welcome the magazine editor...), and once they discovered that he held a position of power and influence, came the shady subtext in most of their comments and questions (see how the cold and evil fashion industry very nearly swallowed this nice guy up? But he fought and came out victorious!).
I kept wondering why, whenever he wrote about his addiction throughout the book, it seemed like I was reading a wordy thinkpiece on Bustle? Well, maybe because it was created for the Bustle reader! The narrative of his book, the diminishing of his career achievements, the movie script-like layout of the chapters.

But basically what Dan Peres is saying with this book is that ever since he took office at Details he hadn't been sober much and so you have to actually wonder, regardless of his affliction, how much credit would someone in such a position really deserve for all the accomplishments that he got? His direction and vision for the magazine were covered in less than one page, the only parts which stood out about his time at CN were the dreaded monthly meeting when he had to present his magazine to Si Newhouse whom he admired from afar. And that was not only anxiety-driven, but also a need to be validated by Si.
That's such a stark contrast to ALT, for instance, who razed the earth for Anna and his job, shunned sex and love and got handed scraps in return. ALT, who is the posterboy of how bad it is when you're too loyal and remain in the same position for too long.
Whereas Dan's professional life seemed to show how equally bad it is to get too much, too soon, and too easily. The quotes that encapsulate his career and strategy, not that he had any to begin with:

On his job as a Paris correspondent at W: “I was hardly responsible, and if I made it into the office before eleven A.M., it was a shock to those who’d already been there for hours.
On getting the Details job: “It was the ideal job for me—high profile enough to make me feel important, but extremely light on responsibility. I wasn’t ready for any real responsibility.”

I do sympathise with his personal struggle but can't begin to relate to his career and his role in it. The guy quickly rose to the ranks at WWD, mentored by Patrick McCarthy (who btw is the only male role model of note in this entire book) and contributed to and coaxed designers for W, before his 30th he was editor in chief of a full-fledged men's magazine with a large demographic and significant amount of impact. But as the reader, you pick all these clearly enviable achievements up in bits and pieces which reads to me as if he never wanted it.

I think he comes across as a nice guy and the book does touch on some sore points like how children can be vicious, how much more ingrained male body image and angst really are, and how easy it is for opioid addiction to go undetected even by doctors. I did feel sad when I browsed his pictures flanked by celebrities during his time at Details because he looks exactly how he described himself in the book. Sad, lost, depressed. Thankfully he got help and support because the epiphany came at a crucial time when his wife gave birth to their first son.

I bet this book will get optioned for a film within the next few years. It has all the earmarks of a story of self-redemption that the masses will lap up.
 
Fashionable people.

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Intimate Party Pictures of Joan Didion and Others
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Anjelica Huston and Robert Graham’s wedding at the Hotel Bel-Air, Los Angeles, May 22, 1992. Camilla McGrath

By Thessaly La Force

Born in Paris in 1925, Camilla Pecci-Blunt was the youngest child (along with her twin, Graziella) of a wealthy and aristocratic Italian-American family. She picked up a camera at an early age and began taking photographs at the various events to which she was invited, including lunches at Villa Reale di Marlia, the Pecci-Blunt estate in Lucca, Italy, and the wedding between the Fiat chairman Gianni Agnelli and Princess Marella Caracciolo di Castagneto. Desirous of a less conventional existence, Camilla eventually married, at 37 — much to the dissatisfaction of her family — a handsome and charismatic American from Wisconsin named Earl McGrath, who was six years her junior. Together, the couple embarked on a glamorous life — moving between the worlds of film, rock ’n’ roll and art — that grew to include dinners, parties, after-parties, weddings and vacations with Mick Jagger, Joan Didion, Audrey Hepburn, Jacqueline Kennedy, Andy Warhol, Cy Twombly, Jasper Johns, Robert Rauschenberg, Sonny Mehta, Anjelica Huston and many others. At every instant, McGrath was never without her camera (first, a Roliflex; then, starting in the ’60s, a Nikon). McGrath died in 2007, but her meticulously organized photographs are finally being published this month by Knopf in “Face to Face,” with accompanying essays by friends of the couple: Fran Lebowitz, Harrison Ford, Griffin Dunne, Vincent Fremont and Jann Wenner (as well as an introduction by the journalist Andrea di Robilant). Because McGrath’s photographs were never used for any kind of publicity (and her subjects were her family and friends), there is a marvelous sense of candor and intimacy to them, which capture, in their totality, an incredibly full and joyful life. $75. Penguin Random House.
source | nytimes
 


In his latest book, Takay presents photographs that pay homage to the creative power and style of the great Japanese designer, Yohji Yamamoto.

'Fluence' was shot primarily in Tokyo, Japan. In it, Takay has captured the magic and mystery of artistic forces and his native country. The images in 'Fluence' are shot in black and white which punctuate the subject and the black designs and silhouettes of Yojhi Yamamoto’s clothing. The subjects in the book are some of Japan’s most accomplished creatives, actors, musicians and models. The locations hark back to Japan of the 1980’s, the end of the Showa era. Takay subconsciously chose locations that reflect this, the era he lived in prior to leaving Japan. These previously unseen photographs blend the Japanese landscape with the transformative power and energy of the people and the archive collection.

The seed for this book was planted many years ago at the start of Takay’s career when he worked with Terry Jones on a Yohji project, and came to fruition after he was offered the use of the Yohji Yamamoto archive collection which spans 40 years of design. In Takay’s opinion, Yohji Yamamoto’s designs have a strong avant-garde, masculine style, mixed with a strong Japanese sensibility and elegance. When he began his project, he thought about what he could do with the clothes but while working with the people dressed in the collection, there was a transformation visually for him, which inspired him to create the images in this book.
source | damianieditore
 


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source | taschen

The powerful collaborations between Peter Lindbergh and Azzedine Alaïa

Peter Lindbergh and Azzedine Alaïa, the photographer and the couturier, were united by their love of black, a love that they would cultivate alike in silver print and solid color garments. Lindbergh ceaselessly turned to black and white to signify his search for authenticity in the faces he brought to light. Alaïa drew on the monochrome of timeless clothes to create veritable sculptures for the body.

In this book, the unique dialogue between the two artists is immortalized in print. Illustrating their community of spirit, its images are a celebration of their artistic partnership and testament to their history-making achievements in photography and fashion.

Despite their geographically opposed origins, Lindbergh and Alaïa pursued similar horizons. At the same time as Lindbergh’s reputation in Germany was growing thanks to his work in Stern magazine, and he set up his studio in Paris in 1978, Alaïa was the couturier shrouded in discretion whose sophisticated techniques were a treasured secret amongst the most important clients of Haute Couture.

Alaïa became the architect of bodies, revealing and unveiling them, while Lindbergh distinguished them by shining a light on their soul and personality. Step by step, they became the creators that dominated their respective disciplines. Both rejected any artifice that distracted from their true subject, and it is with great ease that they came together for a number of powerful collaborations.

Shared inspirations and aesthetic values are visible throughout their work. A beach in Le Touquet and the streets of old Paris reference a mutual love of black and white cinema and vast panoramas. The backdrop of an engine room illustrates the memory of an industrial German landscape for one and references the inordinate passion for functional design and architecture held by the other. Alaïa’s clothes act as pedestals for the smiles and eyes of the women who wear them: Nadja Auermann, Mariacarla Boscono, Naomi Campbell, Anna Cleveland, Dilone, Lucy Dixon, Vanessa Duve, Helene Fischer, Pia Frithiof, Jade Jagger, Maria Johnson, Milla Jovovich, Lynne Koester, Ariane Koizumi, Yasmin Le Bon, Madonna, Kristen McMenamy, Tatjana Patitz, Linda Spierings, Tina Turner, Marie-Sophie Wilson, Lindsey Wixson. For Lindbergh, who built his notoriety on the images of these supermodels, the authenticity of their traits is all that matters. The result is a potent black and white catalogue that reverberates with truthfulness and beauty.

The book accompanies the exhibition Azzedine Alaïa, Peter Lindbergh at the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa, 18 rue de la verrerie, Paris, France.

With contritutions by Fabrice Hergott, director of the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, Paolo Roversi, photographer, and Olivier Saillard, fashion historian and director of the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa, Paris.
 
Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion - and the Future of Clothes, Dana Thomas.
Fantastic book, a lot of informations about new vision of fashion industry. The most compulsive chapter for me was about used biochemistry in fabric industry. The proces of creating new materials sound like magic but in result we will getting inimitable fabric.

Off topic, Iris Van Herpen is one trick pony due to her coding/ 3D scaning skills. When she wants to create a quite new dress, she has to colab with develeopers/architects because those people are writting new code for her, which she will starting use. She is dependent on other people skills.
 
Any recommendations for a good dishy fashion book? I finished The Beautiful Fall by Alicia Drake and I'm wondering if there's anything similar? With a good amount of research, gossip, sometimes poignancy? Any suggestions?
 
Just finished Fashion. Business. Spirituality by Farah Liz Pallaro!!

The fact that it focuses on the people, on the human aspect of fashion, psychology, and spirituality. It feels invigorating and refreshing seeing things in the industry from a new perspective. It helps you reset and focus on your growth in the industry.

Just a little story, I own a small clothing business and I haven't been engaging with my employees - literally, I tried everything on this article. Anyway, I really don't know how to connect to people, whether it's my product or other aspects of explaining my fashion. This book helped was the light to my doubts.
 
Any recommendations for a good dishy fashion book? I finished The Beautiful Fall by Alicia Drake and I'm wondering if there's anything similar? With a good amount of research, gossip, sometimes poignancy? Any suggestions?

Alicia Drake is <3
 
Any recommendations for a good dishy fashion book? I finished The Beautiful Fall by Alicia Drake and I'm wondering if there's anything similar? With a good amount of research, gossip, sometimes poignancy? Any suggestions?
There are a ton of new Karl books out now.
“Karl Lagerfeld, A life in fashion” by Alfons Kaiser, “Kaiser Karl” by Le Monde reporter Raphaëlle Bacqué, (which is being adapted into a six-episode dramatic series for Disney+) .Karl's bodyguard and assistant (Sébastien Jondeau) and his heir (and chanel model) Baptiste Giabiconias have each written book out about him.
 
Fashion Babylon by Imogen Edwards-Jones it is not ambitious book, but a lot of gossip about London fashion world when lost respect at the early 2000. Katie Grand was never good reputation.
 
Any books about 80's fashion? Also, I'm not a fashion student so this may sound dumb, but is there any research about fashion in the academic sense going on? Like I don't even know where to look for references or articles. Any help is appreciated.
 
Any books about 80's fashion? Also, I'm not a fashion student so this may sound dumb, but is there any research about fashion in the academic sense going on? Like I don't even know where to look for references or articles. Any help is appreciated.

First theory was writing by Georg Simmel. That is short essay.
René König - Sociology of Fashion
Lars Svendsen- Fashion: A Philosophy.
Vestoj magzine
Fashion in the academic is huge study area.
 
First theory was writing by Georg Simmel. That is short essay.
René König - Sociology of Fashion
Lars Svendsen- Fashion: A Philosophy.
Vestoj magzine
Fashion in the academic is huge study area.
Thanks! this is exactly what I was looking for.
 
Did anyone read Gods and Kings? I'm finally getting around to reading it. Just finished the first chapter and oh boy lol those poor people that thought fashion was at its corporate worst in the 2010's. Little did they know what was soon to come.
 
There are a ton of new Karl books out now.
“Karl Lagerfeld, A life in fashion” by Alfons Kaiser, “Kaiser Karl” by Le Monde reporter Raphaëlle Bacqué, (which is being adapted into a six-episode dramatic series for Disney+) .Karl's bodyguard and assistant (Sébastien Jondeau) and his heir (and chanel model) Baptiste Giabiconias have each written book out about him.

Thanks for recommending these. I finished Kaiser Karl last week, which did feel like it just extracted the Karl chapters from The Beautiful Fall. Despite that, it was pretty enjoyable. It had some laugh out loud moments. I can totally see why this is the book they're adapting for Disney+. I'm currently reading Karl Lagerfeld: A Life in Fashion now, so far it's so good. Very well researched. I didn't realize that Baptiste wrote a book, I cackled when I noticed that there's a chapter devoted to him in the Alfons Kaiser book. I totally forgot that he existed!!!

An interesting Yves Saint Laurent book that I purchased on a whim recently was Yves Saint Laurent's Studio: Mirror and Secrets it's a tiny little book published by the Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent. It's just dedicated to Yves's studio at 5 Marceau, lots of little pictures and quotations. I've always felt touched by Yves' desk (my god, I sound dramatic).




amazon
 
Is the Yves Saint Laurent's Studio: Mirror and Secrets only available on hard copies? Or are they also on amazon?
 
Is the Yves Saint Laurent's Studio: Mirror and Secrets only available on hard copies? Or are they also on amazon?

Unfortunately, it looks like that book is only available in a hardcopy. :(
 

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