LURVE n° 3 : Irina Lazareanu by Cécile Boroletti

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really looking forward !!!!!
cannot wait to went through this.
I believe the inspiration of the issue is one of the most interesting, really.
List of collaborators is pretty interesting since it reunites all the "old underground" parisian scene, with new "raw" scene ... !!!
Cécile and Olivier Bobin ahead !!

LYNA AHANDA ON THE FRANCIS BACON(S)-INSPIRED NEW ISSUE OF LURVE
BY JULIA FRAKES

Lyna Ahanda founded Lurve two years ago, and the magazine has been steadily gaining a loyal readership and rave reviews since. The Spring/Summer 2010 issue -- with a cover featuring Irina Lazareanu photographed by Cécile Boroletti -- débuts tonight in Paris with a launch event at OFR Galerie. Featuring artwork Ahanda curated by Chadwick Tyler, Edouard Plongeon, Cécile Bortoletti, Pamela Love, and Jordan Sullivan, the show celebrates the issue's theme, "Beyond the Body Proper." It will be swiftly followed by a must-attend cocktail fête at La Cave de la Fidélité (likely going on as this is posted), and DJ'd by downtown New York's most sought-after jeweler Pamela Love and Olivier Bobin. I recently caught up with Ahanda, who is based between Paris and Berlin, to discuss the new issue's Francis Bacon(s)-inspired theme, the inspiration behind Terrence Koh's photography in the issue, and who she envisions the Lurve reader to be.

How did you initially come to Sir Francis Bacon's quote -- 'There is no excellent beauty that hath not some strangeness in the proportion?' Was that eventually designated 'Beyond the Body Proper' as the theme for the third issue of Lurve?

For the past year or so, the fashion industry has been in the center of this "size issue." When I gave birth, I saw my body changing for what I thought was the worst. I was doing research on Francis Bacon (the painter) when I came across that quote (by Sir Francis Bacon, the philosopher). I thought that it was so beautiful how two people with the same names and completely different associations could share the same ideas: on one hand there's Bacon the painter with his distorted portraits, and on the other hand there's Bacon the writer, defining beauty in a way that very few could understand. With Lurve's third issue, I wanted to try to push the size issue even further. My research led me to this anthropology essay, "Beyond the Body Proper," and I soon understood that body image was a subject so deep that by, for example, doing an editorial with a plus-size model, we could not translate anything of significance. So we tried to propel the issue further by just showing "special" beauties and trying to find something beautiful in every person.

What made you choose the cover image of Irina Lazareanu by Cécile Bortoletti?

The last time that I worked with Cécile was only last year, when we did this beautiful editorial with (the late) Daul Kim styled by Romain Kremer. For some reason at the time, I did not want to use Daul's image on the cover. I was under the impression that people would have a hard time understanding Cécile's work because her images are not polished or otherwise commonplace in a fashion magazine. After Daul passed away, Cécile and I spoke a lot on the phone... there was something special that was linking us. We talked often about what I liked in a photo and she somehow completely understood me. Irina's cover photograph very directly reminded me of one of my favorite paintings, Francis Bacon's "Three Studies for A Self-Portrait." Just as in Bacon's painting, Irina appears ageless -- almost faceless -- but still beautiful.

Terrence Koh's photographs in this issue were inspired by that late German modern dance choreographer Pina Bausch, who died suddenly of cancer this summer. Did you have her death in mind for this? Why did you decide to use designer Damir Doma's Spring-Summer 2010 collection in the photos?

Lurve is a sort of play between darkness and lightness, so death is always a big source of inspiration. Begum Boré art directed that story; she wanted the models to be photographed in a fashion similar to Caravaggio's clair-obscur (chiaroscuro) style -- a style which renders both dramatic tension and depth while freezing movements at a precise moment. The idea was to have a story that would be a visceral depiction of energy and drama that emphasized intensity through shadows, movement and facial expressions. Begum was very precise about what she wanted and she choose Damir Doma's designs for his bucolic pieces owing to the fluid fabrics. Red, which was the key colour in Pina Bausch's choreography, was also an intensely present color in Doma's collection. For me, the essential idea was to do something on a more artistic level: and who is better than Terence Koh for that? I don't think Terence really considers himself a photographer, but he was very interested by the project and involved in the casting. The result is absolutely beautiful.

How do you think Chadwick Tyler's two editorials, one of which includes me, embody the "Beyond the Body Proper" theme of the issue?

I like the fact that Chadwick's images are not for everyone. We have now worked together for three issues and the only thing that Chadwick requested was to have creative freedom. He is also involved in each and every step of the shoot (from the casting to the styling) and most of the time I have absolutely no idea of what I am going to get. With this theme, I knew Chadwick would push his work even further. The model is alone, laying, almost suffering. No one knows exactly why and that is the intent: [to show] that the most beautiful person can suffer, that beyond the person who is photographed in expensive clothes, that you [are looking at] someone with a mind, and that models are not objects. With your editorial, it is very different and also something more personal. I think you are such a unique person and that your writing and this very cute image you have on the web was not doing you justice. Chadwick told me he wanted to work with you for a long time and I knew he was the perfect person for the job. You are almost a different person in those images. They're like a secret, darker side of you and I love it.

Wow, thank you. What was the process like curating artworks by Cécile Bortoletti, Chadwick Tyler, Edouard Plongeon, Pamela Love and Jordan Sullivan for the launch at OFR Galerie?

It was very spontaneous. In fact, I will only be meeting these people with whom I have worked tomorrow night, which is the negative side of having your own magazine. I have very good virtual relationships with them, so I asked if them on impulse if they wanted to have some photos at the gallery. Pamela and her boyfriend Jordan submitted these very nice images from a trip to New Mexico, Cécile presented more images of Irina... and the rest is a surprise.

How did you settle on having Pamela Love and Olivier Bobin DJ the cocktail party at La Cave de La Fidélité?

Again, it was completely spontaneous: I just told them 'we need a Frenchie and someone from New York.' Pamela DJs very rarely but I managed to convince her! I can't wait to hear what she will be playing.

Who do you envision reading and appreciating Lurve?

Lurve should be a biannual exploration of fashion and art: a celebration of diversity and novelty, a visual journey into subjects that could change things. Lurve should be about love and even more.
papermag.com

Lyna Ahanda - founder - and Lurve feature, too, in Le Monde Top Indie Magazine - as a NUMBER ONE !

Impressed !
:woot:
 

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Some images ....

papermag.com
 

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Le monde des magazines indépendants

par William Martin-Genier, Journaliste, rédacteur mode
28.02.10
Il est reconnu que les magazines de modes sont, aujourd'hui et dans la majorité des cas, plus un prolongement des bureaux de relations publiques des marques que de véritables critiques de mode. En effet, propriété de grands groupes, les magazines vivent de la publicité des marques qui, par conséquent, guident les choix éditoriaux.



Ainsi, Vogue USA est composé à plus de 60% de publicité, et le numéro de Septembre atteint des records -- plus de 700 pages de publicité en 2007.

Face à ces magazines, entièrement dépendants de la publicité, et donc du contexte économique ; des nouvelles publications revendiquent une liberté éditoriale totale. Adressés à une cible niche, et vendus dans les concept-stores et librairies spécialisées plutôt qu'en kiosques, ces revues trouvent peu à peu leur public ; car nées et mues à chaque nouveau numéro par la passion, ce que les lecteurs apprécient à leur lecture. Misant à la fois sur l'international et le "bouche à oreille numérique" -- les réseaux sociaux -- pour faire leur publicité, les magazines indépendants connaissent actuellement un développement important, et, malgré le nombre de publications de ce type disponibles aujourd'hui, chacune apparaît comme complémentaire à l'autre.

1. Lurve Magazine

Fondé par Lyna Ahanda, le trimestriel, qui sort aujourd'hui son troisième numéro, collabore avec des gens ancrés dans leur temps (blogueurs, jeunes stylistes) tous ayant un point de vue définit et original sur la mode et ses créateurs. Plus que jamais d'actualité, à l'heure où le site internet de Vogue Italia ouvre une section spécialisée "Vogue Black" consacré aux mannequins et à la culture noire, le magazine mise sur des mannequins originaux et typés. N'ayant en outre pas à compter le nombre de mentions de telle ou telle marque en pro rata du nombre de pages de publicité achetées par ladite marque, le stylisme des photos est libre, travaillé plutôt sous l'angle artistique que commercial, et par conséquent innovant -- ce qui permet de faire avancer la mode. La rubrique art, présentant le travail réalisé spécialement pour le magazine par des artistes contemporains tel Damien Hirst, est parfaitement complémentaire et adaptée au magazine: pointue mais de qualité.

Internationale, la publication est vendue dans les librairies d'art et concepts stores comme le Palais de Tokyo, Colette, ou Ofr. à Paris, mais également aux Etats-Unis, en Angleterre en Italie, au Danemark, ...



2. Sang Bleu

créé à Londres en 2004 par Maxime Büchi, qui désire proposer un point de vue artistique sur la mode et la société, Sang Bleu traite aussi bien de l'art que de la culture, mais également les tatouages, d'où le nom de la publication.

Vendu à trente euros, le magazine est composé de plus de 600 pages ; et le dernier numéro, disponible en Mars 2010, regroupe le travail de plus de 200 journalistes et artistes.

Remarqué par le New York Times, et des quotidiens Britanniques, le magazine se vend désormais à plus de 10 000 exemplaires, et ce seulement en librairies spécialisées.



3. Encens

Le magazine Encens, imaginé par les stylistes Samuel Drira et Sybille Walter, qui vient de sortir son vingt-cinquième numéro, est extrêmement ancré dans son époque, tout en appréciant à sa juste valeur la qualité des vêtements d'archives - ou "vintages".

Mélangeant habilement les nouveaux designers à la popularité montante (Damir Doma, Bruno Pieters), designers pointus confirmés (Raf Simons), pièces vintages (Kenzo 1983, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche 1980,...), et art contemporain, Encens est un écrin pour passionnés.

La question de l'avenir de la presse...

Le schéma de la presse de mode est en bouleversement total depuis peu de temps: Les magazines voient leurs pages de publicité diminuer, les annonceurs se lançant dans le web en achetant des espaces et articles sponsorisés sur les blogs.

Les magazines proposant un travail de qualité et une recherche stylistique et éditoriale (comme Vogue Paris) et les magazines indépendants vont, probablement, devenir complémentaires aux magazines numériques et blogs.

En ce qui concerne les magazines moins travaillés et plus commerciaux (Elle, Marie-claire et autres), ces publications vont devoir travailler d'arrache-pied pour survivre face à l'instantanéité et la qualité montante des blogs et revues web.

here is the french text from Le Monde web ...
* sorry for not translating it, now, but ...... lazy !
http://www.lemonde.fr/opinions/chro...-des-magazines-independants_1312508_3232.html
 
There are the editorials featuring Chabanenko by Carlotta Manaigo and Soukupova by Paul Maffi inside the magazine.
 
Weird Cover
 
Here are some smaller images of Naty's editorial (I think all of it)





papermag.com via stiffkittens in Naty's thread
 
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The cover couldn't be more horrid! I don't know what it is with these so-called "independent" magazines, but it seems that their only purpose is to shock.
 
Wow :o Naty's ed is haunting (in the very best way!) Absolutely in love with it. Not too fond of the cover but the rest of this looks certainly impressive.
 
All good and well except for one minor detail. It's not a Francis Bacon quote.

Edgar Allan Poe said it long before Bacon was even alive in the 1800's.

Whoops.
 
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^The Francis Bacon who's quoted here is the Elizabethan-era courtier, not the modern artist. And considering the fact that he lived in the 1500 and 1600s, I'd say he was alive long before Poe.

Not such a whoops, then.
 
Some of the photos are actually beautiful; but very scary as well.

I hope someone will be able to share HQ scans.

:smile:
 
Im really hoping, too ....
coz I havent been able to get the magazine !!!!

I think this is one of the most of the fresh idea for a cover, really looking forwrd to get this in my hands, but i guess ill have to be patient ....
 
I bought this issue today, but I don't have a scanner. But by accident I just discoverd Edouard Plongeon has his shoot available on his blogspot (styling by Marine Braunschvig:(

2e6au0x.jpg

k4uwkj.jpg

35jj8k1.jpg

1jp3dj.jpg


Note: not all the images are included, 1 is missing... I will try to snap that one and some more tomorrow as good as possible.

source: http://edouardplongeon.unblog.fr/
 

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