Lutz Huelle F/W 2023.24 Paris

[donyan]

Vogue Runway

 

[donyan]

Vogue Runway

 

[donyan]

I could have done without some of the dress looks and it's about 10 looks too long but for me its stays consistently good.

 

[VERNIQUE]

i want this brown coat so bad.

 

[jeanclaude]

I like the brown coat, it is the most interesting piece here. The rest does not tell me anything:

 

[Norden]

I like him and his collections. But he is running out of time to push forward on a couple of important factors that are negatively influencing is collections.

the styling is always an issue, his clothes need a better and more interesting world to live in.

I think his finishing is too home sewing ish, I don’t know how to explain it. But his clothes always read as cheap.

I also take issue with his work on colors it’s just so momish

it’s a bit frustrating, I see so much that I would like to own but also so little progress.

 

[Lola701]

I like him and his collections. But he is running out of time to push forward on a couple of important factors that are negatively influencing is collections.

the styling is always an issue, his clothes need a better and more interesting world to live in.

I think his finishing is too home sewing ish, I don’t know how to explain it. But his clothes always read as cheap.

I also take issue with his work on colors it’s just so momish

it’s a bit frustrating, I see so much that I would like to own but also so little progress.

Tbh I really like the few pieces I have from him but I feel like he is designing with « what he has ». There’s a big pragmatism in terms of the fabric used, the cuts and all.

I wonder what is his goal for his brand. It seems very stagnant.

He obviously needs an investor because it all feels very « newly launched brand »

 

[donyan]

Tbh I really like the few pieces I have from him but I feel like he is designing with « what he has ». There’s a big pragmatism in terms of the fabric used, the cuts and all.

I wonder what is his goal for his brand. It seems very stagnant.

He obviously needs an investor because it all feels very « newly launched brand »

Exactly my thoughts. It’s obvious that the budgets are very restricted and that is often noticable in the images. But contrary to other bands, where the actual product not always corresponds to the imagery of the shows, his clothes always look better in real life. In any case they are not disappointing commercial versions of fabulous show pieces. I just wish there was more money for him to take his company to another level. How long can he be languishing like this ? no idea

 

[Lola701]

Exactly my thoughts. It’s obvious that the budgets are very restricted and that is often noticable in the images. But contrary to other bands, where the actual product not always corresponds to the imagery of the shows, his clothes always look better in real life. In any case they are not disappointing commercial versions of fabulous show pieces. I just wish there was more money for him to take his company to another level. How long can he be languishing like this ? no idea

The problem is that it’s very difficult to grow organically without that huge gig that could help him push it further. I know he is doing some consulting here and there but without that position as a creative director (which we all thought Delpozo was), with the salary that comes and the opportunities, it’s difficult.

‘Yes his work is very honest. He reminds me a bit of another designer I love, Martin Grant. The only difference is that Grant almost has a Couture approach that allows him to maintain high standard and create in his little corner. There’s something democratic about Lutz that is a treasure I think.

If the people at Nina Ricci were clever, they would have asked him to do something. Even if it didn’t worked commercially, it would have been enough for him to make enough money for his brand. He needs a smaller house.

 

[donyan]

Delpozo was such a clever match for him, I would have loved to see what he would have done there. It's interesting that his two collections there had a luxurious sheen that the work for his own brand is missing, I've always wondered if that is because he wants it that way or, because he had a big atelier and team at Delpozo.
For a while I was worried that every season was going to be the last but he seems to have an garnered an enormous amount of goodwill from the likes of Sarah Mower, Nicole Phelps and Tim Blanks, despite his complete lack of presence in the general fashion conversation.
I agree he would be brilliant at a number of houses, but at this point is he on the big bosses' radar?

 

[Fulton St Critique]

The problem is that it’s very difficult to grow organically without that huge gig that could help him push it further. I know he is doing some consulting here and there but without that position as a creative director (which we all thought Delpozo was), with the salary that comes and the opportunities, it’s difficult.

‘Yes his work is very honest. He reminds me a bit of another designer I love, Martin Grant. The only difference is that Grant almost has a Couture approach that allows him to maintain high standard and create in his little corner. There’s something democratic about Lutz that is a treasure I think.

If the people at Nina Ricci were clever, they would have asked him to do something. Even if it didn’t worked commercially, it would have been enough for him to make enough money for his brand. He needs a smaller house.

Listened to a podcast where he was being interviewed the other day and apparently he is seeking an investor to assist in growing his label. He has a good amount of stores carrying his brand- I think it’s an issue of marketing rather than appeal or scalability from a design perspective. No, or having a very little, marketing budget, is just as bad if not worse that having a poor seamstress or tailor nowadays in my opinion,,,

 

[Urban Stylin]

I like this, the streetwear and rtw is strong

 

[LadyJunon]

Listened to a podcast where he was being interviewed the other day and apparently he is seeking an investor to assist in growing his label. He has a good amount of stores carrying his brand- I think it’s an issue of marketing rather than appeal or scalability from a design perspective. No, or having a very little, marketing budget, is just as bad if not worse that having a poor seamstress or tailor nowadays in my opinion,,,

I think that the issue is the relation between the age of company and its size/operations. His label is over 20 years old, but it still has the image of a designer in their first half-decade.

It doesn't have the sophisticated front that an established label needs but, his label is far too old to garner that "young, fresh designer" charm that makes the "messiness" appealing.

At this point, he should be around the size of Rick Owens, Proenza Schouler or Nº21: a couple hundred million in turnover, a couple of mid-sized ateliers, a small C-suite, biannual "happenings" and a steady cult following who enjoy and regularly purchase his products.

I don't think it's entirely his fault, but it's something I've noticed.

 

[donyan]

I think that the issue is the relation between the age of company and its size/operations. His label is over 20 years old, but it still has the image of a designer in their first half-decade.

It doesn't have the sophisticated front that an established label needs but, his label is far too old to garner that "young, fresh designer" charm that makes the "messiness" appealing.

At this point, he should be around the size of Rick Owens, Proenza Schouler or Nº21: a couple hundred million in turnover, a couple of mid-sized ateliers, a small C-suite, biannual "happenings" and a steady cult following who enjoy and regularly purchase his products.

I don't think it's entirely his fault, but it's something I've noticed.

I think this is a very valid point. He just wasn't at the right place at the right time, the whole sportswear and streetwear- inspired mix and match went mainstream 15 years after he started and by the time it did he wasn't on anybody's radar at all.
The fact that he actually managed to survive and be as visible as he is today is quite a surprise for me, especially as most of that generation of Designers has since disappeared. All of those Designers that I loved, Branqhino and Vandevorst, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Anne Valerie Hash. I never expected, out of that whole group that he would be the one to stick around. I'm kinda glad he did, though, I still wear the pieces I bought from him years later.