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Emanuel (Maffeolit) Ungaro (born 1933 in Aix-en-Provence) is a French fashion designer. Born to Italian parents who had fled to France from Brindisi because of the fascist Italian government. As a young boy, Emanuel Ungaro took to sewing like his father, Cosimo.
At the age of 22, he moved to Paris and three years later, he began designing for the House of Cristobal Balenciaga for three years before quitting to work for Courrèges. Four years later, in 1965 with the assistance of Swiss artist Sonja Knapp, Emanuel Ungaro opened his own fashion house in Paris. In 1988, at the age of 55, he married Laura Bernabei.
The House of Emanuel Ungaro: In 1968, he created his first pret-a-porter collection, Parallèle and opened a boutique at 2, avenue Montaigne in Paris. During the next 30 years, the Emanuel Ungaro House expanded to include boutiques and licencing agreements worldwide.
Nastassja Kinski in a commercial from 1987 for Senso perfume
Ungaro launched his first menswear collection, Ungaro Uomo, in 1973, and his first perfume, Diva, 10 years later in 1983. Later followed the perfumes Senso (1987), Ungaro (1991) and Emanuel Ungaro For Men (1991).
In 1996, he formed a partnership with Salvatore Ferragamo. In 1997, Emanuel Ungaro, Salvatore Ferragamo and Bulgari created a new company: Emanuel Ungaro Parfums. The new perfumes to follow was Fleur de Diva (1997), Desnuda (2001) and Apparition (2004).
In 2005 the brand Emanuel Ungaro was sold to Pakistan-born internet tycoon, Asim Abdullah head of Global Asset Capital Investment Bank. At the time, the total wholesale revenue of products sold under the Ungaro label through licensing deals was approximately € 70 million.
Dress c. 1966.
This A-line shift dress, part of a chic ensemble, was featured in Vogue in March 1966. It is short and sleeveless with a square neck. The horizontal stripes of the short, double-breasted jacket contrast with the vertical lines of the dress. The buttons are custom made to match the colours of the stripes.
Ungaro was born in Aix-en-Provence to Italian parents. He learnt tailoring by working for his father, then set off for Paris to start up on his own. Here he became friends with Courrèges, who introduced him to Balenciaga. Ungaro worked for Balenciaga for six years, then quit to join Courrèges. They collaborated for just two seasons before Ungaro set up his own Paris studio in 1965 with the textile designer Sonja Knapp.
His first collection was notable for its hard-edged clothes in heavy fabrics. Like Courrèges, Ungaro favoured geometric shift dresses worn with short jackets or coats. In 1966 his Spring collection attracted attention for its vibrant fabrics. These were designed by Sonja Knapp and manufactured by the Italian firm Nattier.
By 1968 Ungaro was producing a ready-to-wear line called 'Parallèle' which he sold from the ground floor of his couture showroom on the Avenue Montaigne.
wikipedia.org . vam.ac.uk
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