1936-2008 Yves Saint Laurent

New York Magazine - January 19, 1970
"Les Collections: New York's Judgment of Paris"
Featuring: Raquel Welch, Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, André Courrèges
Photographer: Terry O'Neill



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New York Magazine - November 4, 1968
"St. Laurent Wears Well" by Barbara Goldsmith
Featuring: Yves Saint Laurent, Betty Catroux, Lauren Bacall
Photographer: Steve Schapiro



google.books
 
"Yellow Domino" Coat - Fall/Winter 1983/1984
Photographed by:
Nicolas Guirkinger, Guy Marineau




Introduced for the first time for the Fall-Winter 1983 haute couture collection, this evening ensemble consists of a coat in yellow China faille overlaid on a black velvet sheath. Worn by Carla Bruni in a dazzling staging, the model is presented again during the couturier's retrospective show at the Center Pompidou in 2002.

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Short Evening Dress - Fall/Winter 1970/1971
Photographed by:
Guy Marineau



In 1970, during the presentation of his Autumn-Winter haute couture collection, Yves Saint Laurent introduced one of his now iconic dresses : a plunging back veiled in lace which was then immortalized by renowned photographers, headed by Jean-Loup Sieff. With this model, the couturier pushes his taste for transparencies to its climax as an ode to the female body.

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"Pop Art" Cocktail Dress - Fall/Winter 1966/1967
Photographed by:
Nicolas Guirkinger, Sophie Carre




For his Autumn-Winter 1966 collection, Yves Saint Laurent imagined a line inspired by the Pop Art current and presented a series of graphic pieces in bright colors.

Among them is this wool jersey cocktail dress sporting a bold red mouth on its neckline.

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Women's Wear Daily - November 11, 1971
Illustrator:
Kenneth Paul Block


Women's Wear Daily - January 25, 1973
Illustrator:
Kenneth Paul Block


Women's Wear Daily - November 28, 1983
Illustrator:
Kenneth Paul Block


wwd
 
Quantas Airways female flight attendant uniform - 1987
(From Fashion In Flight: A History of Airline Uniform Design)




issu
 
Sleeveless suit jacket and tunic in printed silk crepe - Spring/Summer 1971
Photographed by:
Alexandre Guirkinger



Presented during the "scandal collection", whose models inspired by the 1940s were strongly criticized by the press of the time, this dressed ensemble consists of a jacket in red wool gabardine with edges trimmed with a braid of black wool and a silk crepe tunic printed with carnations.

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Evening ensemble (tribute to Georges Braque) - Spring/Summer 1988
Photographed by:
Alexandre Guirkinger, Guy Marineau




This evening ensemble from the spring-summer 1988 collection is a tribute to Georges Braque: Composed of a jacket and a skirt in wool ottoman, a light knit, the model is framed by two doves in goose feathers and egrets from the house of Lemarié. Yves Saint Laurent thus diverts a recurring motif in the work of the cubist painter to transpose it into haute couture.

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Long evening dress in garnet velvet and satin stole - Fall/Winter 1997/98
Photographed by:
Sophie Carre, Uncredited
Model: Shalom Harlow




This sumptuous velvet gown from the fall-winter 1997 haute couture collection is adorned with a purple cardinal satin stole and multiple jewels, recalling the importance of accessories in the couturier's creations.

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Long evening dress in garnet lace and taffeta - Fall/Winter 1983/84
Photographed by:
Sophie Carre




Entirely made of embroidered Calais lace, this dress from the fall-winter 1983 haute couture collection features a sumptuous taffeta bow that delicately rests on the back of the model.

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Evening ensemble (tribute to Georges Braque) - Spring/Summer 1988
Photographed by:
Uncredited
Model: Kimberly Marler


Introduced during the 1988 spring-summer collection, this long evening ensemble consists of a turquoise gazar cape embroidered by maison Lesage and a blue muslin dress. The embroidered birds that dot the fabric echo the work of Georges Braque.

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Blue wool pea coat and white shantung pants - Spring/Summer 1962
Photographed by: Frères Séeberger, Alexandre Guirkinger, Guy Marineau
Model: Unknown, Audrey Marnay




Early on, Yves Saint Laurent was inspired by menswear. In 1962, he looked to the pea coat, a thick wool overcoat worn by sailors to ward off the cold. The simple shape of this practical garment sculpted the silhouette.

Saint Laurent’s 1962 fashion show opened with the pea coat. The model wore it with white shantung pants and mules. This ensemble paved the way for Yves Saint Laurent’s signature style, which borrowed from menswear in order to make women feel comfortable and confident.

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Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture & Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 1968/69
Photographed by:
Bill Ray (for Life Magazine)





artsandculture.google
 
Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1968
Photographed by:
Bill Ray (for Life Magazine)
Model: Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain




artsandculture.google
 
Yves Saint Laurent's Spring Collection (1964)
(British Pathé)

 
Mode Yves Saint Laurent 1967
(L'Institut national de l'audiovisuel (INA))

 
Andy Warhol's Interview April 1976
"The Philosophy of Yves Saint Laurent"



archive.org
 
Interview October 1980
"The Maximum Force: Yves Saint Laurent" by André Leon Talley
Photographer: Horst P. Horst



archive.org
 
Evening ensemble - Fall/Winter 1980/81
Photographed by:
Alexandre Guirkinger, Matthieu Lavanchy, Claus Ohm, Guy Marineau
Model: Anna de Chambrun, Diana Gartner





The autumn-winter 1980 haute couture collection, also known as "Shakespeare and the poets" is an opportunity for Yves Saint Laurent to pay tribute to the poets he admires: Guillaume Apollinaire, Jean Cocteau, Louis Aragon...

For the latter, the couturier designs a blue velvet car coat with the title of the collection of poetry Les yeux d’Elsa (1942). In these pages, Aragon writes of his love for Elsa Triolet, his wife and muse. On a midnight blue starry background, an intense gaze is embroidered with sequins. Yves Saint Laurent thus interprets literature through textile creation by offering it a new means of expression.

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