A Retrospective : US Harper's Bazaar under Anthony Mazzola (1972–1992)

[snmkytkn]

Thanks for the posting @blueorchid. It’s definitely a solid education of the brand pre-Liz x Fabien Bazaar. Can’t say that Anthony lacked a distinct sensibility— but can’t say I like it either. It’s so of its period and that’s there’s no mistaking it for any era but the tacky 80s LOL Just too 80s musical theatre/Broadway/piano bar mums and their gay BFF in aesthetic for my preference… The cluttered layout alone is a turn-off— like the overstuffed closet of a musical theatre diva’s dressing room… You can smell the suffocating, heaviness of YSL’s Opium; feel the dry, crunchiness of the cans upon cans of aerosol hairspray used in these shoots; hear Duran Duran on the sound system in Scavullo’s studio; ...the massive amount of coke casually shared...

I remember someone once wrote that before Liz x Fabien swept in to revolutionize Bazaar (and the standards of fashion publications in general), it had become this dusty department store catalogue by the late-80s. That’s something interesting to look forward to LOL

@Phuel why do you hate the 80s so much? And why are you following this page I am wondering indeed. I am not trying to be rude but I read some of your other comments about the 80s and obviously you have a big distaste for the era. I think that most of the people here like or love the 80s. Everyone has their own opinion about the era. I grew up during the 80s. I am 57. I remember those days with fondness. I liked and still like the models, the designers, the fashion magazines very much. @blueorchid 's posts make me very happy and I want to thank her. The 80s may be tacky but it was fun. Looking through the pages of fashion magazines gave the teens of that era, at least to me and my friends, considerable joy. The perfumes wafting from the inserts were, Giorgio's, Bijan for Women and White Linen, not Opium. The photography of editorials were colorful and optimistic. The models were smiling. Today fashion magazines are usually gloomy and "suffocating" with sulking underweight models . Photography is so much photoshopped that no model has the faintest hint of flow, they don't even have pores. Unnatural. It is a matter of taste I believe. I may be ranting . Sorry.

 

[snmkytkn]

Harper's Bazaar January 1984
"Five Top Models Bring You Fashion's Good News! For Spring"
Photographer: Jacques Malignon
Models: Shari Belafonte, Kirsten Allen, Carrie Miller, Jacki Adams, Donna Stia



Harper's Bazaar January 1984
"Luxury Leathers and... Sunlit Colors"
Photographer: Stan Malinowski
Models: Claire Atkinson, Rosemary McGrotha



Harper's Bazaar January 1984
"Luxury Leathers and... Sunlit Colors"
Photographer: Ron Lynch
Models: Lisa Ryall, Ashley Richardson



Harper's Bazaar January 1984
"The Wit of Spring! In Fashion.. in Film"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo
Featuring: Michelle Johnson



Harper's Bazaar January 1984
"Smart Money Report"
Photographer: Peter Saks


HB Archive

Thanks a million @blueorchid for posting Ashley Richardson.

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"You & The Great Outdoors!"
Photographer: Mike Reinhardt
Featuring: Merete Van Kamp



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"Your Natural Guide to Beauty & Health"
Photographers: Bill Silano, Ron Lynch



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"The 100% Naturals: Long, Easy, Cool Summer Dresses"
Photographer: Ron Lynch
Models: Donna Stia, Unknown



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"Accessories Now.. Natural Wonders"
Photographer: Rico Puhlmann, Bill Silano
Model: Kirsten Allen



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"Keep Your Eye On... Broadway Stars!"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo
Featuring: Kate Nelligan, Peter Ustinov



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"Paris: Art In Fashion"
Photographer: Dick Ballarian
Models: Kirsten Allen?, Unknown


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"The Power of Flowers"
Photographer: Rico Puhlmann
Models: Andie MacDowell, Renata Vackoca



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"Beautiful & Fit"
Photographer: Mike Reinhardt, Bill King, Bill Silano
Featuring: Merete Van Kamp, Cheryl Tiegs, Gilda Marx



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"The Color is Black for the Summer"
Photographer: Ron Lynch
Models: Unknown



Harper's Bazaar April 1984
"Update Your Look"
Photographer: Nobumitsu
Models: Nancy DeWeir, Unknown


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

HB routinely used actresses in their issues from the early 70s. Long before it became the norm.

What I find funny about the actresses they used in the 80s is that they're mostly from television shows, not so much film. Especially with Linda Evans and Joan Collins getting covers, one after the other, consistently for 2 or 3 years. And so much Farrah Fawcett!!

 

[VBE]

HB routinely used actresses in their issues from the early 70s. Long before it became the norm.

It was always so strange to me that Anna Wintour gets credit for that phenomenon when Harper’s Bazaar and several other magazines began doing it way earlier. I have accepted that fashion history stops telling its story as time goes by and current followers of fashion do not look look back, only forward. It’s been interesting to watch American Vogue transition from high end fashion magazine to looking just like Redbook from the 70’s.

 

[VBE]

What I find funny about the actresses they used in the 80s is that they're mostly from television shows, not so much film. Especially with Linda Evans and Joan Collins getting covers, one after the other, consistently for 2 or 3 years. And so much Farrah Fawcett!!

It’s no different than when Jennifer Aniston or Sarah Jessica Parker or Blake Lively were doing covers consistently for top fashion magazines during their tv zenith. Farrah Fawcett, Linda Evans and Joan Collin’s were all huge cultural phenomenons on an international scale as were the tv shows that launched their careers, “Charlie’s Angels” and “Dynasty.” They could sell magazines. All three, Farrah, Linda and Joan had major beauty and/or fragrance contracts with major brands. Also, during the 80’s many film actress really moved away from heavily stylized glamour in order to be taken “seriously.”

 

[kasper!]

Too bad in this thread there is only one ed with Mary Tyler Moore.

 

[justaguy]

Too bad in this thread there is only one ed with Mary Tyler Moore.

True. She also just had one story with US Vogue, too.

 

[justaguy]

It was always so strange to me that Anna Wintour gets credit for that phenomenon when Harper’s Bazaar and several other magazines began doing it way earlier. I have accepted that fashion history stops telling its story as time goes by and current followers of fashion do not look look back, only forward. It’s been interesting to watch American Vogue transition from high end fashion magazine to looking just like Redbook from the 70’s.

Exactly! They made such a big deal about Anna using actors in the 90s when Diana and Grace had done it for decades!

 

[Phuel]

@Phuel why do you hate the 80s so much? And why are you following this page I am wondering indeed. I am not trying to be rude but I read some of your other comments about the 80s and obviously you have a big distaste for the era. I think that most of the people here like or love the 80s. Everyone has their own opinion about the era. I grew up during the 80s. I am 57. I remember those days with fondness. I liked and still like the models, the designers, the fashion magazines very much. @blueorchid 's posts make me very happy and I want to thank her. The 80s may be tacky but it was fun. Looking through the pages of fashion magazines gave the teens of that era, at least to me and my friends, considerable joy. The perfumes wafting from the inserts were, Giorgio's, Bijan for Women and White Linen, not Opium. The photography of editorials were colorful and optimistic. The models were smiling. Today fashion magazines are usually gloomy and "suffocating" with sulking underweight models . Photography is so much photoshopped that no model has the faintest hint of flow, they don't even have pores. Unnatural. It is a matter of taste I believe. I may be ranting . Sorry.

“Hate" is such an abrasive word. I would never say I hate anything: You’ll never find the term “hate” in any of my opinions when it pertains to fashion. However, yes— huge huge huge distaste for certain tropes of that decade and era in high fashion LOL …What I do like of that era may be best represented by the aesthetic of Calvin Klein by Bruce Weber; Guess by Wayne Maser; Armani by Herb Ritts etc etc There are very specific, very certain, and very precise imagery of that era I do like: The B-boys of then still underground hip hop culture; Prince and his very distinctive entourage of stylescape and soundscape; Madonna specifically of her 1983-1984 period (I’ve gotten lost rewatching her “Lucky Star” video over and over), certain performers and their style, like Philip Oakey, David Sylvian, Les Rita Mitsouko, and Ray Petri’s Buffalo style. But in terms of fashion, and more specifically high fashion, I find it the most unattractive and uninspired era when compared to other fashion decades (although Emmanuelle’s Vogue has been the sole proposal that revisioned the 80s and all its excessive gaudiness in a convincing high fashion representation). And because I have no emotional association to that era as a whole, when I see that brand of trendy, maximalist, overwrought aesthetic, with the teased, crunchy, feathered, layered hairstyles and the excessively oversized styling that’s hugely represented in this thread, it’s just natural response/reaction to reject it as a design proposal: It’s nothing personal.

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"A Fabulous Body at Any Age"
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Model: Christie Brinkley



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"A Fabulous Body at Any Age"
Photographers: Marco Glaviano, Francesco Scavullo, Milton H. Greene
Featuring: Paulina Porizkova, Nancy DeWeir, Renée Simonsen, Carol Alt, Joan Severance, Shirley MacLaine, Priscilla Presley, Maud Adams, Lori Singer, Ursula Andress



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Summer Hits"
Photographers: Patrick Demarchelier, Milton H. Greene, Marco Glaviano
Featuring: Gregory Hines, Harrison Ford, Steve Martin, Lily Tomlin, Diane Lane, Michael Paré, Kate Capshaw, Dudley Moore, Jane Fonda, Bernadette Peters, Mandy Patinkin



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Keep Your Eye On... Giorgio Armani"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo
Model: Patti Hansen



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Cutouts"
Photographer: Rico Puhlmann
Models: Jacki Adams, Renée Simonsen, Kirsten Allen


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Sports For Today's Strong Body"
Photographer: Ron Lynch
Models: Unknown



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Super Sparkle"
Photographer: Rico Puhlmann
Models: Nancy Decker, Kirsten Allen



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Taking Off: The Warm Weather Traveler"
Photographer: Paul Amato
Models: Renata Vackova, Nancy Decker



Harper's Bazaar May 1984
"Taking Off: The Warm Weather Traveler"
Photographer: Marco Glaviano
Model: Kirsten Allen


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar June 1984
"Summer Finds"
Photographer: Ron Lynch
Model: Lisa Ryall, Lise Brand, Unknown



Harper's Bazaar June 1984
"Your New Image! The Post-Grad Makeover"
Photographer: Nobumitsu, Frank Schramm
Model: Georgia De La Salle, Jinsey Dauk



Harper's Bazaar June 1984
"Hot Shot Short Hair!"
Photographer: Nobumitsu
Models: Unknown



Harper's Bazaar June 1984
"Your New Image! Off-Limits For The Office"
Photographer: Unidentified
Model: Unknown



Harper's Bazaar June 1984
"Your 30s: The More Decade"
Photographer: Steven Mark Needham
Featuring: Diane Sawyer, Janet Maslin, Annie Liebovitz, Wendy Wassler,



Harper's Bazaar June 1984
"The Good Life in Palm Beach"
Photographer: Ron Lynch
Models: Lisa Ryall, Lise Brand, Eva Wallen



Harper's Bazaar June 1984
"New York Preview: Fall Designer Collections"
Photographer: Charles Ford
Featuring: Nancy Decker, Halston, Donna Sexton, Bill Blass, Donna Stia, Geoffrey Beene, Jose Borain, Calvin Klein, Jacki Adams, Donna Karan, Louis Dell'Olio, Clotilde, Ralph Lauren, Unknown


HB Archive

 

[justaguy]

Harper's Bazaar June 1984
"Your New Image! The Post-Grad Makeover"
Photographer: Nobumitsu, Frank Schramm
Model: Georgia De La Salle, Jinsey Dauk


HB Archive

I have been searching for Jinsey Dauk's surname for ever!! Thank you for posting!!

 

[julieafan]

Thank you so much for those Linda Evans ones, been trying to get hold of them for ages!

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar July 1984
"American Vitality"
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Models: Christie Brinkley, Kelly LeBrock



Harper's Bazaar July 1984
"California Knockouts"
Photographer: Stan Malinowski
Featuring: Cynthia Sikes, Susan Anton, Pamela Sue Martin, Marla Heasley, Erin Gray, Connie Sellecca, Mimi Rogers



Harper's Bazaar July 1984
"Super Summer Skin"
Photographer: Rico Puhlmann
Models: Renée Simonsen, Kirsten Allen


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar July 1984
"Pattern Mixes: The New York Fall Collections"
Photographer: Rico Puhlmann
Models: Kirsten Allen, Suzanne Lanza, Lise Brand



Harper's Bazaar July 1984
"The New Polish of Manstyle Shoes"
Photographer: Kei Ogata



Harper's Bazaar July 1984
"From Italy: Great Pants"
Photographer: Bill Silano
Model: Carol Alt



Harper's Bazaar July 1984
"Powerful Color: The Message from Paris"
Photographer: Jacques Malignon
Models: Renée Simonsen, Nancy DeWeir, Unknown


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar August 1984
"Dallas Superstar Linda Gray: Haute Paris"
Photographer: Jacques Malignon
Featuring: Linda Gray



Harper's Bazaar August 1984
"The New Change of Pace"
Photographer: Ron Lynch
Featuring: Sunny Griffin, Katherine McCallum, Lindsay Allen



Harper's Bazaar August 1984
"Dance Away Flab"
Photographer: Frank Schramm
Featuring: Chita Rivera, Patricia McBride



Harper's Bazaar August 1984
"Jane Fonda's New Prime Time Workouts!"
Photographer: Milton H. Greene
Featuring: Jane Fonda, Mignon McCarthy



Harper's Bazaar August 1984
"Shine! It's Never Too Late"
Photographer: Marco Glaviano
Model: Veruschka



Harper's Bazaar August 1984
"Smoking: An Overnight Sensation"
Photographer: Charles Ford
Models: Anne Bezamat, Leticia Lucas, Unknown


HB Archive

 

[blueorchid]

Harper's Bazaar August 1984
"Fall Makeup: Colorful Seduction"
Photographer: Marco Glaviano
Models: Kelly LeBrock, Bob Menna



Harper's Bazaar August 1984
"Video Stars: Fashion's New Forerunners"
Photographer: Francesco Scavullo, Matthew Rolston
Featuring: The Go-Go's, The Eurythmics, Duran Duran, Pat Benatar



Harper's Bazaar August 1984
"London's Fashion Flash"
Photographer: Dustin Pittman
Models: Leticia Lucas, Claire Atkinson



Harper's Bazaar August 1984
"P.M Glamour: Dazzling Decorations"
Photographer: George Holz
Models: Unknown



Harper's Bazaar August 1984
"The Great Coats Are Coming!"
Photographer: Paul Amato
Models: Daniela Ghione, Bitten Knudsen, Carrie Nygren, Unknown


HB Archive