Best of Menswear F/W 06-07

[faust]

The Cloak show pretty much concluded the menswear shows for the f/w 06 season. Time to pick out your top collections, best looks, etc. Do it here.

I thought the top menswear shows were

1. Raf Simons (by far - I don't think anything came close to it)
2. Ann Demeulemeester (the styling was a bit on the busy side, but I could discern plenty of interesting pieces).
3. Number (N)ine (it was derivative, yet it was really an excellent, edgy and wearable collection)
4. Cloak (a solid collection of manly menswear, no fu-fus and such)

In addition, I think V&R produced their best collection yet. Les Hommes collection was a big letdown.

I also would like to have seen what Undercover did this season.

 

[Creamy Thighs]

My favorites in no particular order:

Number (N)ine - as you say Faust, very derivative, but despite this I would still wear most of the items shown. Will be very hard hitting on the wallet come the autumn months...

Raf Simons - again agree with what you said, best show of the season. I have no idea what the hell he was thinking at Jil Sander...almost like he's sabotaging their menswear in favour of his own ( ). The knitwear was incredible. Really not impressed with RAF by Raf Simons line though.

Dior - I loved this, so glad Hedi's reverted back to old DH style. Much prefer the formal attire over the lank-haired-coke-snorting-heroin-injecting-not-really-that-great-indie-band-chic-thing that's been going on over there for the past few seasons. Show looked beautiful. Definitely going to be getting me some of those wide-legged trousers.

So really, quite similiar to what you posted Faust.

 

[Baizilla]

You've pretty much summed it up faust

... is there a N(N) F/W 06 thread up? if so, i can't find it

 

[andrew]

Between Raf and Ann, my winter wardrobe is pretty much taken care of. Can't forget Burberry Prorsum either, some of that collection is fantastic. I'm not digging much else to be honest...

 

[faust]

Between Raf and Ann, my winter wardrobe is pretty much taken care of. Can't forget Burberry Prorsum either, some of that collection is fantastic. I'm not digging much else to be honest...

Agreed about Burberry, a pleasant surprise. Not for me, but I can appreciate it.

Here is the NN thread,

http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/f60/number-n-ine-f-w-06-paris-38909.html?highlight=number

 

[Baizilla]

Thanks faust..!

1. Number (N)ine - No doubt the BEST collection i've ever seen.. from any designer...

 

[tott]

In no particular order, my personal favourites that I would wear:

Jil Sander: I love the shapes, the cleanliness... I prefer this over Raf.

Raf Simons: This is good, and I absolutely must have one of the double, zippered jackets.

Prada: Prada seems to get more and more boring... But I love the knits and the nerdy quality. (No, I won't get anything leopard.)

Miumiu: Playful proportions, but still serious somehow. I actually prefer this over Prada, and that's a first for me.

Ann Demeulemeester: Love the mood, plenty of fabulous stuff.

LV/BV: I love the tactile luxuriousness, which is both understated and obvious... Lovely wearable basics.

Yamamoto: Love the cuts and shapes. (I could do without some of the colourful decorations though.)

 

[receptionista]

Burberry Prorsum was honestly the only thing i really, really loved. I don't like Raf Simons that much. Too many ugly turtlenecks.

 

[dirty funk]

1 Number (N)ine
2 Issey Miyake
3 John Galliano

 

[baklanyc]

I agree that Raf was the most directional,, and I am feverishly trying to make up my mind which coat (or coats) I will purchase come next fall. By extension I felt that Jil Sander was an excellent, directional collection, playing with the same ideas of volume but done in a way that very purely distilled the spirit of the house, but in a fresh manner. Of the two, I would only buy Raf's mainline, but I like how the Jil sander collection was both loyal to the brand identity by boiling the collection down to utterly simple shapes yet established a new lexicon for the house with fresh silhouettes.

I think Number (N)ine had a great collection, but early adopters may be over that whole goth~paramilitary feeling by the time it hits the stores. It looks great to wear now, but I wonder if it will hold up by next year? Excellent designs nevertheless. I have my eye on several coats.

I don't buy Dior Home because I shy away from the fervor of its diehard fans, but I felt that Hedi went forward with volume in a totally unique way from everyone else, yet kept a body consciousness that made the transition easier to digest. His full, flowing pants with more fitted, fluid tops were a more palatable rendition of the same kind of proportions that Raf kindled with his eponymous collection last Fall (with skinny shirts atop full, multipleated highwaisted trousers), and in a way that was referential (Le Smoking by YSL) yet seemed an original take (unique details in offbeat proportions for otherwise classic menswear items).

Burberry Prorsum had the best use of color and pattern mixing this season, in my opinion. Plus the slim suit silhouette got a boost of freshness in Bailey's impeccable cuts done with a higher supression but a longer jacket. By contrast, Cloak's shorter jackets with higher suppressions yet wider shoulders, narrow double-breasted button placement and skinny lapels looked tired and ill-proportioned to me - they made the tall, slim models look like they had wide, empire waistlines.... not to my liking.

Wooyoungmi had great details and easy but well-fitted silhouettes. Definitely one to watch in the future. The collection was notable for being a surprise, not unlike Gilles Rosier's collection last year. Speaking of Rosier, where is his new collection, as well as the Parisian collections of Rossier, Hardy & Faret?

 

[airboyair]

If I have to choose ten:

01. Raf Simons
02. Cloak
03. Number (N)ine
04. Ann Demeulemeester
05. Givenchy
06. Kris Van Assche
07. Victor & Rolf
08. Gucci
09. Jil Sander
10. Burberry

 

[airboyair]

I forgot to add, Rick Owens. B)

 

[Djavanjmiles]

1.Dolce&Gabbana
2.Louis Vuitton
3.Kris Van Asshe
4.Burberry
5.Yves Saint Laurant
6.John Galliano
7.Prada......(Minus the furry helmets.)
8.Dior Homme
9.D&G
10.MiuMiu

 

[kLm]

Didn't expect to leave off Cloak, but I'm going with:
Raf
Number (N)ine
Yohji
and, oddly for me, Burberry. I saw some really wearable stuff there.

Oh, and maybe wooyoungmi, but as I posted in that thread, I need to see the stuff in person first. Could be a keeper if the prices stay right where they are.

 

[fouroclock]

Bernard Wilhelm - the clothing was intense and voluminous
Burberry Prorsum - clean collection
Dolce & Gabbana - loving the sgt. pepper suits
Number (N)ine - edgy

 

[amor]

1.dolce&gabbanna
2.miu Miu
3.gucci

 

[Honey~Blade]

1. Yohji Yamamoto - I think it was a more angry collection with a hint of cheekiness this time around and he does that so well. The cut of the jackets are amazing and I love the wound slits and the stuff he did with the lapels. I'm not into his more baggy and boxy clothes but I understand he's into that kinda thing...and those adidas sneakers were bad as well but I can forget about those things easy heh

2. Ann Demeulemeester - Artistic and flowing as usual. The natural look of the clothes are always what have drawn me to her clothes. The silk scarves and printed shirts are beautiful. Not big on the fur though, but it seems like a trend for winter this time.

3. Raf Simons - I'm sure I don't need to say anything on this one The knits were awesome!

Either than that N(N) really rocked, it didn't have their sense of identity in it but nevertheless very strong and I'm sure all the pieces will have their own N(N) twist in it. Oh and Rick Owens was nice, very wearable and stylish but I'm not going near the boots

 

[cookies3939]

John Galliano
Miu Miu
Burberry Prorsum

 

[tuomas]

This is getting a bit repetative, but I'm glad so many of us are liking Raf and Ann...my faves:

1. Raf Simons
2. Ann Demeulemeester
3. Stephan Schneider
4. Rick Owens
5. Yohji, after a very long time
6. Hussein Chalayan

plus bits and pieces from Veronique Branquinho & Martin Margiela, from the less known I 'd say Ute Ploier's getting better and better

 

[new_dawn_fades]

hahaa... true tuomas..we all seem to agree on that one
once again i repeat #1 Raf simons..would have to be my favourite raf simons collection to date.
#2 Rick Owens( i dont have to explain this one/Ann demeulemeester(altho im not a fan of the mettalics but i love patti smith)- (tiewoot:
now in no particular order
,N(N), cloak(not up to standard if u ask me but i still like it) hmm yes i also have to agree that burberry was a "pleasant surprise" as faust put it..gee faust why do u always have to sum it up for everyone else? always ahead..

i havent seen any schneider but im guessing some of it will be nice as it always has been.. i wonder if CCP ever did F/W 06 .. probably.. does anyone have pics? and i wonder what that genius in a random parisian garage is up to as we type away...i cant wait to own my first altieri piece... that will take a year(s) of saving up of course...