(Filed: 04/07/2005)
The Beatnik look provides a sharp alternative to boho. Kate Moss, in her skinny drainpipe jeans and 'baker boy' caps, is naturally already wearing it, writes Hilary Alexander, Fashion Director
Black of eye and dressed in black, The Beatnik is back. High street stores are planning a major fashion shift this month to sweep away the romantic gipsy look that has turned city streets into a pastorale of pavement skimming boho skirts and peasant blouses.
The look is short, sharp, graphic and 1960s influenced, a complete about-turn from florals, paisleys, frills and flounces.
Aimed at the 16-25 age group, the New Beatnik will drive a wedge between the generations, eliminating the ageless dressing which in recent seasons has seen mothers and daughters wearing almost identical clothes.
"The kids are bored with boho, all this sweetness and light. They want something sharp and graphic - and Beatnik is it," says Jane Shepherdson, brand director for the Topshop chain.
By mid-July, all 300 Topshop stores will have collections of black and white striped mini-dresses, winkle-picker-toe, flat knee-boots and striped, loose fitting sweaters designed to fall off one shoulder, priced between £2 for a black and white necktie to £120 for a short, belted black cotton mac.
"This is a complete change," Ms Shepherdson said. "Apart from beatnik, it's got elements of rock and roll, punk, gothic and Audrey Hepburn so it's irresistable to the young. Kate Moss and her boyfriend Pete Doherty have got it already. And everyone in the Topshop offices is already wearing black."
The Asda chain is also targeting the beat look for this autumn. "Our main thrust will be in the G21 range of George at Asda, which is aimed at the 16- to 22-year-olds," said Sophie Clinch, the ladieswear design director.
"Obviously the beatnik-inspired clothes are the essential bits, but we see it making a major impact on hair and make-up, particularly with the comeback for the big, dark smokey eye. It's a total pace-change and very youth-oriented, just like the 1960s."
Even Marks & Spencer is planning to cash in, albeit belatedly, on the beatnik revival. A 16-piece black-and-white collection including Sgt Pepper-style jackets, short shift dresses, striped mohair-mix V-necks and pointy-toe knee boots, either flat, or with a small kitten heel, will be on sale in 30 stores, priced between £15 and £99, from October.
The chief influence for the return of the Beatnik has come from two sources: fashion and film.
Back in January, the designer John Galliano used Edie Sedgwick - the beautiful, glamorous and wealthy, but ultimately doomed muse who was the constant companion of pop artist, 1960s icon and film-maker Andy Warhol and the inspiration behind several songs on Bob Dylan's Blonde on Blonde album - as the inspiration for a black-and-white ''Beat'' collection in his spring/summer haute couture collection for Christian Dior. He reprised the look two months later in his autumn/winter ready-to-wear collection for the brand.
From Fashion Telegraph.com UK
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