Collections of S/S 2013

[MulletProof]

The shows came to an end today and I thought it'd be a good idea to discuss our favorite collections/highlights, your least favorites, memorable moments, general discussion, etc.

Ultramarine was mentioning earlier on how he found the season tiresome and I definitely feel like the shows, right since New York, were permeated by a very dense atmosphere that, at least in my case, kept me indifferent up until the second or third day of Paris. I feel like perhaps the Milan vs. London drama might've affected this too, through pressure on what designers put out, or uncertainty, who knows.

Also the amount of egos left a bad impression of an otherwise insipid season.. from Oscar de la Renta to freakin' Lady Gaga and her Mugler song (or designs?) to Hedi Slimane. Can't help to feel a bit hopeless when the room for criticism gets tinier every season.

Feel free to move on to favorites and lists! just thought I'd bring a couple of thoughts on this season.

(* when posting long lists, please try to use attachments or thumbnails just so no one has trouble navigating through a big amount of pictures!).

 

[jeanclaude]

My worst collections were Dior and Saint Laurent. Slimane & Simons were, for my taste, boredom personified. Great marketing to create so much hype, nevertheless. Buzz designers at their best.

Dior was a mixture between the maison´s archive; and Raf´s style at Sander.
Saint Laurent (I hope I have written the name correctly, so their PR team doesn´t have a problem with me xD) was just Dior Homme mixed with vintage garments from 70s YSL (all with a little bit of a huge ego as a topping).

Maison archive + recent works (for other labels) of the current chief designer= YSL & Dior Spring 2013.

In the other hand, my favourite collection was Prada. It was freak and shocking, I was expecting something retro/ladylike as usual (which I don´t like)...but it was refreshing to find new experimental ideas, the same way she used to experiment back in the nineties. Interesting concepts, cuts; and accessories. Very fun and playful.

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

Highlights and Surprises: Proenza Schouler, Burberry Prorsum, Francesco Scognamiglia, Versace, Alexander McQueen, Altuzarra, Givenchy, Bottega Veneta, Miu Miu, and Balenciaga

Letdowns: Prada, Dior, Balmain, Celine, Dolce & Gabbana (but who's surprised about that ) Gucci, Isabel Marant, Jean Paul Gaultier, Stella McCartney, and Marc Jacobs

I think this season has been a lot better than some past seasons, although I'm not liking the return to minimalism, some designers have been making it look better than usual, and some are still pushing against it which I always like to see. There were a lot of expectations, a lot of drama, and some letdowns it would seem when it came to the two biggest anticipated shows of the Paris shows, and I hate to say it but I loved the Saint Laurent collection but damn, Hedi needs to stop talking and typing and as much as I love Raf and think he's gonna be amazing at Dior, that collection was just underwhelming. Too many looks and too many boring dresses. I'm gonna wait to see what they each put out next season and sure hope things calm down at YSL.

 

[disco54]

Overall it was a lacklustre season, the much hyped Dior and YSL collections were duds as far as I am concerned. Paris fashion week was the biggest let down, London and Milan had some good collections. Minimalism is over kill now, it was overdone to death in Paris, I felt only Jil Sander gave it the right treatment,

Favs: Roksanda Ilinic, Johnathan Saunders, Jil Sander, Gucci, Haider Ackermann,
Roberto Cavalli.

 

[gossiping]

i think this season was more about looks than whole collections for me. my faves:

style.com

 

[mistress_f]

I really feel like this has been the most lackluster season ever since i started following fashion. It's been very disappointing, especially for what concerns Milan and New York... Paris was the only city that caught my interest and not as it used to. I've been let down by Raf and well, let's not even go in the ysl territory. The collections i liked, though, i did very much. Ann, Haider, Tisci, Comme des Garcons - so amazing. (And i might add that it's been very lackluster for accessories as well. so disappointed) I guess that nothing out of my comfort zone succeeded in exiciting me.
(these are my favourite, with honorable mentions for Chanel, Carven, AF Vandevorst)

Comme des Garcons


Haider Ackermann


Ann Demeulemeester


Givenchy


Prada


Gareth Pugh


Vivienne Westwood


Celine


vogue.it, stylebistro.com, nowfashion.com

 

[lucy92]

this season has been entirely lackluster to me. there were a few glimpses of brilliance for me (christopher kane's frankenstein imagery,a few of zac posen'a gowns and about half of raf's dior collection)

in short - a major disapointment.

 

[chloesaab]

Elie Saab

Chanel

Balenciaga

Givenchy

Haider Ackermann

stylebistro

 

[Miloux]

I agree PFW was a real letdown; minimalism to the max, which I'm not to crazy about. For me the highlights were: Chanel (major suprise there), Proenza Schouler, Jason Wu, Giambattista Valli, Gucci and Bottega Veneta (Stunning). Unimpressed: Louis Vuitton, Dior, Saint Laurent Paris, Erdem, Burberry, etc.

 

[chloesaab]

Gucci

Maison Martin Margiela

John Galliano

Vivienne Westwood

Jean Paul Gaultier

stylebistro

 

[Crying Diamonds]

this season has been entirely lackluster to me. there were a few glimpses of brilliance for me (christopher kane's frankenstein imagery,a few of zac posen'a gowns and about half of raf's dior collection)

in short - a major disapointment.

Christopher Kane's collection was by far my standout favourite of the season. He incorporated everything that a good collection should have - experimentation, beauty, wearability, and of course, his unique style. That was a great collection.

Mulberry's collection was also exquisite, just look after look of clothes you just wanted to be buried in. It was luxury that you'd expect from a house like Burberry, and that is exactly where Mulberry should be. I mean, look at that jacket!

Revillon was another favourite - just opulence, and great techniques, it may not be 'of the moment' but neither was Hedi Slimane, and I am so, so bored of seeing the same large volume, white coat with dropped-sleeveheads in absolutely every collection.

Honourable mentions:
Veronique Leroy - A different sort of volume
Proenza Schouler - Great designs and details
Jonathan Saunders - I want a holographic skirt
Giambattista Valli - Exquisite quality and that one red jacket..
Narciso Rodriguez - Beautiful beadwork (and quality, of course)

I think what all of the honourable mentions have in common is that they just weren't very exciting; they all had beautiful aspects to them (my god if I could just buy that Giamba red jacket for myself..) but they were all pretty similar - all wearable, all pretty, with not much going on.
The Minimalist girl isn't supposed to be an air-head.. isn't she supposed to be the opposite of that?

Heading the biggest disappointments was naturally Saint Laurent. I just thought Slimane might've moved on from Dior Homme for a YSL womenswear collection... Dior was exactly what I expected really (though less cohesive..)
I thought Phoebe Philo might have gone back to creating amazing essentials, but she went the opposite way with her mink flip flops.

 

[AnaO]

I missed the color, the fun prints, the happy, spring-y atmosphere that most SS seasons are full of. We have to get ready for a pretty sober spring and summer. Having said that, I loved the suits galore, the perfect whie shirts and the tendency to look back at fashion houses' heritage.

Positive surprises:
Zac Posen - it was his first collection ever that I actually loved. And the casting was impeccable!
Chanel - just as I was starting to get slightly bored with Karl, he came with windmills, energy and fresh air. May I please have all these enormous pearls?
Jil Sander - it looked totally like a Raf Simons' collection. And as far as I'm concerned, that's a good thing.
Maison Martin Margiela - simplicity at it's best
Proenza Schouler - interesting patchwork
Balenciaga - sexy and refined at the same time

Disappointments
Dior - Raf can't find his place at Dior. He mixed some of his lovely, perfectly tailored, chic looks (which, however, felt a bit deja vu) and a bunch of random, unflattering pieces. The collection didn't quite hold together.
Dolce & Gabbana - while I perfectly understand its haters, the brand is my guilty pleasure. This time, however, it was pure pain.
Versace - oh. my. how. tacky. And how unwearable if you're over 20 and over size 6.
Balmain - I still have high hopes for Olivier, his F/W 12 collection is pretty good, but pajama pants, jumpsuits and 80s references? Really?
Lanvin - don't get me wrong, I LOOOOVE Alber Elbaz. And if that collection was designer by anyone else, I'd say it's really good. But Alber can do so much better, more inspiring, more flattering.

No surprise
Haider Ackermann and Sarah Burton never get it wrong.

 

[PrincessLovely]

This season was one of the most boring seasons for me,even though I just started following fashion about 3 years ago,Everything was much more exciting and innovative in past seasons.
The shows I was more excited about this season (Miu Miu,Dior,Dolce&Gabbana) were a huge disappointment.I usually have alot of favorite shows,And this season I had 2,3,max.4.
Not to mention very little shows look like an actual Spring/Summer collection.Alot were very F/W to me.
I know there is a thread called ¨Is fashion getting boring,are designers running out of ideas?¨ And quite frankly I think the answer is Yes.At least this season.
Hopefully next season will be alot better

Favorites:
Lanvin
Victor & Rolf
Valentino (It´s always the same,but it was really beautiful)
Saint Laurent (maybe,not quite sure yet)

Letdowns:
Miu Miu
Dior
Chanel
Dolce & Gabbana
Louis Vuitton.

 

[tatouejeremie]

christopher kane
balenciaga
rick owens
miu miu
celine

 

[Zazie]

The usual suspects, Jil Sander, Haider Ackermann, Miu Miu and haven't seen a thread on her yet...Masha Ma. Pictures from NowFashion.com

 

[ohmyy]

favourites:
maison martin margiela
balenciaga
celine
stella mccartney

 

[Lolajazz]

5 favourites :
Aider Hackermann
Carven
Martin Margiela
Balenciaga
Dries van Noten

and also :
Valentino
Chanel

 

[GERGIN]

Haider Ackerman, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten.

 

[MulletProof]

I really feel like this has been the most lackluster season ever since i started following fashion. It's been very disappointing, especially for what concerns Milan and New York... Paris was the only city that caught my interest and not as it used to.

Same here, I almost feel guilty to admit it as even when others talked about irrelevant seasons, I'd always find joy in certain designers.. this time I think I'm mostly conforming, but I don't feel particularly moved by anything.. there are so many missing talents (Jun Takahashi??) and those who did use to fill up the void seem to be going through a very sad route (Marras).

A lot of collections have grown on me though, like DVN. And perhaps influenced by Tentacl V.'s suggestion, I've fallen out of love with the darkness that invaded Paris. I love minimal shapes, and certainly detest the romanticism that designers like Dolce & Gabbana are still swearing by, but all the simple silhouettes, the sci-fi themes, the collections made up of "must-haves", ugh.. I wish someone would master the evolution of 'earthiness' and bring it, but make it so complex that it requires thinking and pondering on individuality. Or something along these lines..

There are still collections that I haven't seen (Christian Wijnants') but my favorites so far and in no particular order:

1. Gary Graham

2. Antoni & Alison

3. Dries Van Noten

4. Glenn Martens

5. Christophe Lemaire

6. Haider Ackermann

7. Comme des Garçons

8. Yohji Yamamoto

9. 3.1 Philip Lim

10. Chloé

[eastnews.ru/style.com/purple.fr/stylebistro.com]

 

[Phuel]

Fashion's been so schizophrenic these last several seasons. Too many designers are going back to their roots-- for reassurance, safety, security..., who knows, but there's less daring and too much familiarity-- which is great when you see things in the shops, but incredibly dull for their shows. Maybe it's the rise of bland editors and stylists in the industry. Or maybe it's the fall of the world economy. Despite it all, there are genuine gems of collections here and there, and that, for me, makes fashion still worthwhile, and not quite all boring.

My top 3 S/S 2013 collections:

3. Haider Ackerman

It's unmistakably Ackerman-esqu poetic, graphic and ethereal. He'll always remind me of Romeo Gigli, not in a copycat manner, but for his sensual take on women. But unlike Gigli's women, who comes off of another time and place and so fragile, Ackerman's women is of this modern time and place, and more transcendent than fragile. And his use of polka dots is the best and most refreshing I've ever seen.

2. A.F. Vandervorst

They are the undisputed wild wild dark horse that stole the thunder from all the veteran houses in Paris for me. Darkly seductive and wildly spellbinding, their regal silhouettes made each design a study in beautiful alchemy for a woman's body. Theirs is a quiet beauty that doesn't need hype and an empire to boast and shout of how great these two are. I adore everything about this label, and for S/S 2013 they brought my favourite surreal images-- Magritte, Man Ray and de Chirico to high fashion life.

1. Salvatore Ferragamo

Massimiliano Giometti is my new fashion hero for S/S 2013. His world of ultra-luxury and modern sensuality never comes across crass, vulgar or camp. His is a subtle sleekness that is rooted in classic and timeless forms. I adore every piece he sent down the runway. And maybe because for me, his vision of women struck that perfect balance of modern and classic, luxurious and minimalist, and sexy and sensual-- that's why he has the best collection for S/S 2013.