Gucci S/S 2006 Milan

[JuiceMajor]

those floral dress remind me of Louis Vuitton SS2005 collection. hideous, just hideous!

 

[liberty33r1b]

the only thing i really, really like here is the bags, which are just gorgeous, but proves, once more, she should stick to being an accessories designer and nothing else.....

 

[Johnny]

Many here are talking about the Gucci attitude, the Gucci look etc etc. Aren't you really just referring to the Tom Form look and attitude. Which is fine if you liked that, but it's hypocritical to get up in arms about the Gucci brand being denigrated by this collection. It's inconsistent with Ford but not necesarily with Gucci. Apparently the designer did a fair bit of research into the Gucci archives and found floral patterns and lightness that had disappeared during the Tom Egomaniac era: "I looked further back, because in the archives there is a joyfulness about Gucci that I feel has been lost".

I think it's 100 times better than Ford's efforts. I like it, some of the dresses are very nice.

 

[J'ador-DioR]

This is actually better than most of the stuff i've seen in NYC fashion week a couple of weeks ago. I actually don' t mind this stuff at all though it' s not my kind of thing. She def has more balls than Alessandra F. I only see one piece that is heavily influenced by Louis vuitton (that orange cardigan). I don' t get the Rochas influence(maybe the colours). I appreciate that she has changed things up a little and remember this is only her first RTW collection which in my opinion isn' t great but a great step ahead. I like some of the evening dresses.

 

[*JJ*]

i like frida's designs, and if this was some other brand i'd probably love it. but it is sooo not gucci. tom ford took years to build an image and naturally that is what people think of when they hear gucci. i don't know if it will work out, we'll see. thank god i'm more into handbags and shoes, and those she designs well.

 

[taz]

Many here are talking about the Gucci attitude, the Gucci look etc etc. Aren't you really just referring to the Tom Form look and attitude. Which is fine if you liked that, but it's hypocritical to get up in arms about the Gucci brand being denigrated by this collection. It's inconsistent with Ford but not necesarily with Gucci. Apparently the designer did a fair bit of research into the Gucci archives and found floral patterns and lightness that had disappeared during the Tom Egomaniac era: "I looked further back, because in the archives there is a joyfulness about Gucci that I feel has been lost".

I think it's 100 times better than Ford's efforts. I like it, some of the dresses are very nice.

u make it more clear Johnny, i mean ur right..well the super sexy look, in slinky silk skirts and intricately-worked leather jackets,...were actuly 'TOM FORD for GUCCI' but not 'GUCCI', it is obvious that the objective of this collection is to start over again without any trace of TOM FORD's era...it is more like a transection collection to a establish a new gucci or maybe capture the spirit of the original Florintine 'lady like' GUCCI, not the sexy 'sluty' Texan GUCCI.

Frida returned back 10 years in time befor Tom arrival & started all over again ....just like the polka dots collection Pilati did for YSL...it was only an turning point to introduce & set up a new image & mood.

for those who are still missing the moky eyes, sexy tight pants, it will be back in 2006 when TOM FORD will establish his own label.

 

[scandinavianchic]

the Rochas outfits she's obviously inspired by:

Gucci:

Picture from vogue.co.uk

 

[Pastry]

u make it more clear Johnny, i mean ur right..well the super sexy look, in slinky silk skirts and intricately-worked leather jackets,...were actuly 'TOM FORD for GUCCI' but not 'GUCCI', it is obvious that the objective of this collection is to start over again without any trace of TOM FORD's era...it is more like a transection collection to a establish a new gucci or maybe capture the spirit of the original Florintine 'lady like' GUCCI, not the sexy 'sluty' Texan GUCCI.

Frida returned back 10 years in time befor Tom arrival & started all over again ....just like the polka dots collection Pilati did for YSL...it was only an turning point to introduce & set up a new image & mood.

for those who are still missing the moky eyes, sexy tight pants, it will be back in 2006 when TOM FORD will establish his own label.

Ha, ha! I was thinking absolutely the same. Looking at vintage Gucci pieces, they were all easy, not tight. However, Tom Ford went past the point of contribution. He made Gucci a completely different label, and people liked it better. So, that's that.

I was thinking Frida would do something along the lines of..this But after seeing her well-excecuted Resort, I thought she'd know better than flral minis.

 

[mikeijames]

between frida and allessandra, i think ppr has learned just how valuable tom ford really was to the gucci brand. even when he did a bad collection, it was good.

 

[taz]

Ha, ha! I was thinking absolutely the same. Looking at vintage Gucci pieces, they were all easy, not tight. However, Tom Ford went past the point of contribution. He made Gucci a completely different label, and people liked it better. So, that's that.

I was thinking Frida would do something along the lines of..this But after seeing her well-excecuted Resort, I thought she'd know better than flral minis.

only time will tell, & for me the 1st collection always doesn't count - as marc jacob sayed after the harsh comment on Stefano Pilati 1st debut for ysl-
, after at least 4 collections - 2 s/s & 2 f/w - i can give my judgement.. so i'll wait & see...

 

[Alura]

It's tiring to look at, too many ideas, too much of a mixmatch, sell your Gucci stock!

 

[lilach]

Actually this IS Gucci BEFORE Ford! But where was the brand at thast period? Rock bottom in the nowhere land! Gucci became big just because of Ford and his in the face sex kitten style. It became big because of a lot of customers liked and adored that fordish guccilook. Maybe the time is over for that type of look BUT are the customers over? I think no (they maybe never will) and for that clientele that show was a slap in the face. I cant imagine that they will buy it not because its fugly just because it is not what they want what was luring them into the stores and make them spending big bucks. Maybe they will be replacesd by a new clientele who helps Gucci still generate profit with their fashion. If not? Gucci will be back to the point it was before Tom.

 

[MalibuBarbie]

As most people have said in the forum - it's hideous!

Tom we need you!

Honestly, it's so not Gucci and what Gucci should stand for, for anyone who was a Tom Ford for Gucci fan knows that he put the sex in "sex appeal" - his designs were fabulous and so worth it! I mean the this is the 2nd new designer since Tom and well, she's not cutting it!

Some post-show reviews have been that it was a "fresh take" on Gucci - yeah, but Gucci didn't need a fresh take - it was always hot and always so beautiful. When someone wore Gucci, everyone wanted it - now it's like uhh no!

Big mistake Gucci!

TOM FORD FOREVER!!!

 

[PinkSunrise]

They should have kept Tom Ford.

AGREED! Everybodys talking about how it just doesnt seem Gucci but the only thing that made Gucci Gucci was Tom Ford!! He designed it that way, and now that's what we all expect...if someone tries to copy him they can never be as good...and going in a different direction totally changes the preconceived image of Gucci.

 

[faust]

between frida and allessandra, i think ppr has learned just how valuable tom ford really was to the gucci brand. even when he did a bad collection, it was good.

Really? Their financial results certainly don't support this point of view.

From NYTimes

Judging by the sour pusses at Gucci tonight, Frida Giannini's first major runway show since succeeding Tom Ford was a stinker. Comments from retail executives about her pinched-shoulder jackets, her black satin Bermudas and beaded tea dresses ranged from "dreadful" to "disaster." A Neiman Marcus executive, requesting anonymity because of the store's pending sale and its lucrative business with Gucci, said: "This is a brand that represents desire and want. When you put something that safe on the runway it's dangerous."

The only real danger is accepting conventional wisdom. Mr. Ford left Gucci more than two years ago: time enough to redefine "desire and want." Gucci under its parent company, PPR, has said it expects to have annual sales increases of 10 percent, and according to Mark Lee, the president of Gucci, the brand posted a 19 percent gain in the first half of this year. Editors and retailers predicted that without a star at Gucci the brand would fade.

Well, guess what? Stars may not be born every day in fashion, but new customers are. Ms. Giannini's glossy day clothes - the cashmere polo tops, the boyish trousers, the floral silk blouses taken from archive prints - may seem tame, even banal, after Mr. Ford's collections. But maybe these changes reflect young women's attitudes. As Ms. Giannini said: "We want more intimate moments today. It's not about the limousine and the dark glasses."

Ronald Frasch, the vice chairman of Saks Fifth Avenue, said he was impressed with the confidence that Ms. Giannini displayed. "She's not afraid to put something on the runway that is different," he said, adding, "Our Gucci business has been amazing, especially in accessories, but the biggest growth opportunity is in ready-to-wear."

Ms. Giannini's pinched black jackets and beaded tea dresses may recall the early years of Yves Saint Laurent's Rive Gauche line, but the sleek pantsuit was also crucial to Gucci's revival in the mid 90's. And Gucci can't afford to be known just as a brand for accessories and red-carpet gowns. It has to put clothes out there that women will want to wear every day.

Ms. Giannini's lemons are therefore worth considering. She is among a handful of young women, including Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo at Chloé, designing clothes for young women. Surely it is worth asking - even if the results might seem "dreadful" - what they know about contemporary taste that the rest of us smarty-pants do not.

 

[Salvatore]

I honestly do not think the Tom Ford Gucci is over (as well as I don't think Versace is over). I think Tom Ford was just getting started when he was ripped out. Ford brought many to Gucci and defined the "Gucci girl" and this is NOT it. On the other hand Pilati at YSL was better due to the fact that YSl was doing better even before Tom Ford stepped in. I'm afraid that this Giannini went the wrong direction.

 

[taz]

beside if it was a great collection or not, i like Frida's confident.

 

[liberty33r1b]

Here's the review from style.com:

MILAN, september 28, 2005 – Ten years after Tom Ford delivered his groundbreaking velvet boot-cut collection, something fresh has finally arrived to revive the buzz at Gucci. It's colorful, ripe with prints, full of feminine, seventies-flavored forties dresses, and it's by a 32-year-old woman, Frida Giannini. "We've come out of a long period of monochrome," she said. "And I love prints and colors. What I want to do is an intelligent kind of glamour for my generation. I think in this century, every woman wants a private life. You can explore more things than celebrity and the Oscars."

After Alessandra Facchinetti's two-season stint at Gucci, Giannini was promoted on the strength of her Flora-print accessory collection, the motif of which was lifted from a fifties Gucci scarf made for Grace Kelly. For spring, she started with boyish day suits—narrow jackets with puffed shoulders, rugby shirts, and skinny mod pants—worn with flat patent boots emblazoned with Gucci horse bits. That look wasn't completely convincing top to toe, but when her print blouses with fluttery cap sleeves and above-the-knee dresses began to walk out, things looked up. Clearly influenced by Saint Laurent's famous 1970 forties collection, the shoes were high patent and suede platform ankle straps. Giannini's take on Gucci's brand of sexy is more a matter of a bared back than an exposed front. She designed her long, linear "hostess" gowns with "a party with friends" in mind, rather than full-on occasions. A couple of them strayed into Rochas territory, but the best, a long cyclamen gown, and the finale, with its pin-tucked top, puff sleeves, and embroidered crystal flowers, had enough presence to go anywhere. Like Phoebe Philo at Chloé, Giannini is determined to set a mandate for a new kind of wearability. Whatever else this collection had going for it, it was different enough to prove that the page has been turned on the dark, erotic look of Tom Ford's nineties.

– Sarah Mower

 

[Atelier]

Really? Their financial results certainly don't support this point of view.

From NYTimes

The only real danger is accepting conventional wisdom. Mr. Ford left Gucci more than two years ago: time enough to redefine "desire and want." Gucci under its parent company, PPR, has said it expects to have annual sales increases of 10 percent, and according to Mark Lee, the president of Gucci, the brand posted a 19 percent gain in the first half of this year. Editors and retailers predicted that without a star at Gucci the brand would fade.

With respect to the 19% gain in the first half of 2005, that's owed to Fall 04 RTW (Ford), Spring 05 RTW (Facchinetti) and of course accessories (Ford and Giannini). All of that is Ford-era because Facchinetti didn't change anything in RTW. The Giannini accersories were a departure but that is her strength.

The expected annual sales of 10%, at least for 2005, again are a result of Fall 04 RTW, Spring 05 RTW and Fall 05 RTW--all Fordesque. Gianniani's accersories are sellers, true.

But I think mikeijames' point is that after seeing this Spring 06 RTW awful collection, we'll be seeing Giannini's RTW (not her accesories) tested. I think the 19% and 10% figures thrown out by Mark Lee are still based on the Ford-era RTW and accessories, Fracchinetti-era RTW (which is Ford-era) and Giannini accersories. If Giannini's Spring 06 RTW collection (and beyond, if she even keeps her job) can maintain or increase the numbers, I'll be very surprised.

What I'm saying is that in response to the NY Times quote "Editors and retailers predicted that without a star at Gucci the brand would fade," not enough quarters have elasped for that "prediction" to kick in.

 

[MizBlue]

That Gucci attitude is gone, I'm surprised and at the same time dissapointed.

I am dissapionted as well
The collection is okay..Not crazy about the bags IMO