S/S 2016: Best and worst shows, general opinions...

[ogepma]

My favourite shows were:

Louis Vuitton
Christian Dior
Prada
Maison Margiela
Loewe
Proenza Schouler
Anrealage
Alexander McQueen
Junya Watanabe
Roksanda

Honourable mentions: JW Anderson, Marni, Lemarie, Miu Miu

Biggest Disappointments: Givenchy and Balenciaga.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

This was a monotonous season, but this is not a new sensation. For me it didn't stand out as an exceptionally bad season, it fell right in line with the other underwhelming seasons of the past few years. That said here are my lists (in no particular order).

Good:
1205
Louis Vuitton
Givenchy
Yohji Yamamoto
The Row
Courreges
Loewe
Altuzarra
Dior

Worst:
Roberto Cavalli
Emilio Pucci
Valentino
Balmain
Rodarte
Balenciaga
Marc Jacobs

Ridiculous:
Rick Owens
VFiles

 

[disco54]

Overall I thought the NYC shows were the best , most of Paris was terrible.



My fav shows

Marc Jacobs
Prabal Gurung
Narciso Rodriguez
Celine
Gucci
Chanel
Versace
Valentino
Marni
Vionnet

 

[dodencebt]

I agree with everyone that it has been a bleak month. I don't necessarily have favorite shows, but there were a few that stuck. I liked Alexander Wang, even though most of you didn't, as well as Proenza Schouler, Alexander McQueen and Loewe. I also liked Gucci because of the attitude and strong direction, Carolina Herrera for being relevant and fresh for once and Courrèges for the clever new start.

The rest was either fine or below expectation, but if I had to pick a worst show it would be Nina Ricci. I haven't seen clothes that repulsive in seasons.

 

[clayboy]

Best shows for me were:

Proenza Schouler, J.W Anderson, Prada, Loewe, Miu Miu

Worst:

Balenciaga, Alexander Wang, Louis Vuitton

 

[CholoChic]

I enjoyed watching this season not complete collections but some dresses were spectacular, inspirational and hopeful.

Best Show
Margiela by John Galliano,
I think the soul of fashion is vibrant with John, every pin, every basted seam, that irridicente blue, and every delicate and sauvage detail will make an interesting season.

(I live in Perú, so here are not Margiela Stores, but I will copy this detail to my favourite t-shirt until I can buy a Margiela)

Worst Show
John Galliano by Bill Gaytten.
I would like to know what does Bill think about his role in the story of fashion, because he did not save any Fashion House, he was so terrible at Dior that they were desperately looking for a replacement and as a terrible reveange for Galliano it looks like LVMH said to Bill: Destroy the John Galliano house with your designs.

And he said: all right.

image sources: vogue.co.uk

 

[jeffandtheworld]

Best shows
Marc Jacobs
Christopher Kane
Prada
Dries Van Noten
Miu Miu
Haider Ackermann
Maison Martin Margiela
The Row

Roberto Cavalli was bad. Vuitton was also bad.

 

[Scotty]

Best:

Miu Miu
Lanvin
Yohji
Versace
Marni

Worst:

Balmain (Not surprising.)
Gucci
Chloé
Roberto Cavalli
Pucci
Balenciaga

 

[Uemarasan]

I'm rarely disappointed by the fashion season because, well, it helps that I mostly pay attention to the designers with integrity and talent.

Several interesting narratives emerged. First of all, fashion looks to be in good hands with a (relatively) younger generation who are continuously refining their design visions. I think they presented some of their strongest collections to date:

Sacai
Cedric Charlier
Undercover
Anrealage
Tod's
Simone Rocha
Noir Kei Ninomiya

The mid career veterans produced reliably solid proposals, even though they weren't necessarily career highs:

Antonio Marras
A.F. Vandevorst
Junya Watanabe
Zero + Maria Cornejo
Sharon Wauchob

And the masters were just beyond all the phoniness beneath them:

Comme des Garçons
Yohji Yamamoto
Dries Van Noten
Margaret Howell
Vivienne Westwood

I was disappointed in Mary Katrantzou. I think she's still trying to find her direction. Also, Hussein Chalayan did better work for Vionnet than his own label. I'm not sure what happened to Lanvin this season. I'm still thinking about Prada, Haider Ackermann, Issey Miyake, and Celine. I haven't finalized an opinion on them.

All in all, a very satisfying season.

 

[mariemaud]

best
A.F. Vandevorst
Yohji Yamamoto
Lemaire for the shoes
Margiela by Galliano
Nina Ricci

worst
Balmain
Saint Laurent
Louis Vuitton
Balenciaga
Valentino

 

[Pradable]

Best Shows

- Louis Vuitton
- Dior
- Tom Ford
- Versace
- Dries van Noten
- Courrèges
- Alexander McQueen
- Gucci
...
- Givenchy (Those HC remakes were amazing)

 

[Steddycam91]

This was a pretty decent season overall, especially after how terrible F/W 2015 was.

There has been a lot of talk about newness and what it means to be "modern." Who is gonna be the designer that genuinely knocks us all for a loop and presents a completely fresh and groundbreaking look?

A lot of the strong collections, IMO, were the ones that shrugged this notion off and just played to the strengths and the interests of the designers. The sartorial equivalent of "you do you." These included Givenchy, Tom Ford, Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs, Dries Van Noten, Prada. These weren't all great collections, but they stood out for being unabashedly on-brand. I appreciated the ideas of Proenza Schouler and Louis Vuitton. Raf at Dior continues to be a struggle, and a snoozefest. He already seems quite jaded and uninspired; does he even like working at that house? Céline just didn't work for me, which is a shame after how much I adored last season.

And Saint Laurent...there was something so fascinating about that show and how hackneyed and haphazard it was. But all done in a very considered, purposeful way. I think Hedi is definitely toying with the fashion world, and I'm genuinely interested to see how it unfolds.

 

[Wenden]

Okay, it's hard to say but it was really the weakest season since I remember. I miss times when fashion was really about making fashion as a statement (fall 2007, come back!), as a fashion itself, not about only-selling-it way like now. Ehh..

I am curious more and more about young unknown designers rather than big houses going into a mess like ysl or balenciaga. We will see what vetements guy can do, I think that would be interesting to see his ability to transform cheap fabric clothes into something interesting (like he is doing with his own brand) with balenciaga atelier and deep archive. I hope he would be more confident designer than Alex was and my prayers for this brand finally will be heard.

But let's back to this season. Celine was one of my biggest disappointments. I really like the concept of traveling woman, the styling, venue and overall effect, but the clothes were just not as exciting as usual. Especially after last season which I loved so much. And Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton is too much into "grimes" kind of girl lately IMO. He should back to more "gainsbourg"one

It's really not that exciting as it was. I remember times when instagram doesn't exist and there was no live streaming, first photos came first here, on tfs. Now it's more fast, instant, and sadly the feeling about the industry is becoming the same. I am shocked when just after the presentation, there is a campaign on a second day (or even before like at Loewe - but that however I find interesting). Speaking of Loewe, Jonathan sometimes maybe is trying a bit too hard, but overall his voice in fashion is the hope for now. He's doing really great at his own brand, and even better at Loewe. His shows is exciting, feeling fresh. And I am a fan of his gimmicky meets organic style. Completely opposite of what Raf is doing with Dior ready to wear. When his couture is usually interesting, I am tired of repeating the same direction on the RTW. I feel poor for him, when the first few seasons was really exciting, now it's becoming the "ït girl" brand. Every season I believe more and more in him at Dior, but then I think more and more about the amazing things that he could do under his own womenswear label.

After all - Miuccia safe this season for me. I adored Prada as usual. And after questionable few season at Miu Miu where there was no interest from me, this time finally it's exciting.

(Please forgive my English)

 

[ChimyeeRong]

I can't think of a single show I liked.

OMG I feel the same way too!

 

[Lola701]

I actually believe that the problem of the fashion system is really this concept of "Young designers".
I feel like between 2009 & now, we have (us fashion lovers and them fashion people) valued too much that idea of "young designers". We assumed that because they were young, they were talented and maybe they were meant to be the future kings/queen of fashion.

Instead of valuing the "young", we should have valued the "new", the "fresh".

Judging by the comments, the real fashion moment of the season was the Louis Vuitton show. That show did what a good fashion show is supposed to do IMO:
propose new ideas, challenge our tastes, question "fashion" and give good clothes.
Only a few of those so called "YD" delivered. Some of them are going down.

If we are judging some of the designers who came up since 2007, most of them gave us "the best of 90's to mid 00's" fashion. But the ones who gave us real moments were the experienced designers who were confident enough to give us real fashion moments, real excitment and real clothes: Ghesquiere, Lagerfeld, Mc Queen, Prada, Pilati...etc.

The hottest brand in Paris, Vetements, is a throwback brand. It satisfy us because of the nostalgia of the 90's for those who were born before the 90's or grew up watching 90's fashion shows and also because underground has never been so mainstream. It makes us believe that it is a strong voice that will influence fashion whereas the real revolution happened already.

I really don't believe that "young unknown" designers are really subversive anymore. They all have the same codes and the same view of fashion.

We should champion quality over quantity because for a while now, the fashion system believed that the quality was in the quantity.

It's so difficult today to create a fashion moment because it's also very difficult to capture people's attention.
Instead of watching the show, people are filming with their Iphones even if the video of the show will be available 10 minutes after.

Oh Lola, your passion and enthusiasm for high fashion is so infectious— this comes across so clearly in your posts… Don’t ever change.

Thank you dear

 

[kasper!]

BEST

Lemaire / Nina Ricci / Tom Ford

WORST

Balmain

 

[modelista]

Best: Carolina Herrera, Shiatzy Chen, & Ermanno Scervino

Worst: Kanye West & Rick Owens

Honorable mention: Versace, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo & Burberry

I seriously don't understand what has happened to fashion. There just seems to be a collective bar lowering. From the bland models, lack of diversity to the lackluster collections that diverged light years away from their brand's heritage or identiy.. Idk about you guys but I'm over "fashion"

 

[RedSmokeRise]

It was a pretty boring season imo. The production budgets of these shows keep rising but the time and effort put into the actual pieces seems to be less and less.

Best:
-Prada
-Sacai
-Undercover

Worst:
-Kanye
-Rick Owens

Biggest disappointments:
-Saint Laurent
-Dior
-Celine

At least we'll always have Raquel opening Versace.

 

[StoneSkipper]

I didn't think it was that bad - I mean, it's no F/W 2011, or even F/W 2012 - but it was pretty uninspired in general. There seemed to be a lot of common ground between designers, no pushing out of the box. Still, there were some pretty terrific collections, if you knew where to look - it's just that the bad was so bad that it completely eclipsed the good. (Not without reason.)

Anyway, my best collections of the season, ranked from most to least favorite:
01. Allude
02. A.F. Vandevorst
03. Palmer/Harding
04. Yohji Yamamoto
05. Alexander McQueen
06. Esteban Cortazar
07. Narciso Rodriguez
08. Vivienne Westwood Red Label
09. Thom Browne
10. Roksanda
11. Jonathan Saunders
12. Ryohei Kawanishi (Parsons MFA)
13. Etro
14. Marques'Almeida

And, my worst collections of the season, ranked from least to most hideous:
11. Jacquemus
10. Chloé
09. Reem Acra
08. Leitmotiv
07. Grinko
06. Dolce & Gabbana
05. Balmain
04. Son Jung Wan
03. Hood by Air
02. Roberto Cavalli
01. Francesca Liberatore

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I really enjoyed New York this season. Some if it was quite nice! Milan was good but Paris was a little blah overall.

Best

Proenza Schouler - Finally some fashion from them! And good fashion at that!
Givenchy
Rodarte
Delpozo - The one designer in NY that actually deserves praise and attention whom is continuously underrated.
Hood by Air
Marc Jacobs
Roskanda
Gucci
Prada - It took a couple of weeks to marinate, but I've really grown to like it!
Moschino - 100% Gimmick and 100% Fabulous. Much better than fall.
Marni - Consuelo is back!
Alexander McQueen - Pretty and feminine and filled with great details.
Chanel
Margiela
Tom Ford
Louis Vuitton

Worst:

Altuzarra - Basic, Bland, Blah.
Alexander Wang
Oscar De La Renta - A flop collection from Peter. Awful fabrics with ZERO innovation and a serious lack of taste.
Emilio Pucci - The other Peter didn't have much to say this season either. Forever 21 Haute Coutue. An unpleasant surprise and a real stinker.
Haider Ackermann
Jacques
Courrèges
Lanvin - Perhaps it's time for a vacation? B)
Hermes
Miu Miu- I'm crying couture tears! What an awful show. I'm honestly shocked at how bad it was. Repetitive and unflattering silhouettes in ugly fabrics.