Your Best & Worst Collections of F/W 2024.25

[vogue28]

Now that Paris is officially over, thought we'd waste no time, like always, in selecting the best and worst of the F/W 2024.25 season!

For me, as per usual, Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent was a personal highlight for me.

Also loved Schiaparelli, Isabel Marant, Chloé, Dolce & Gabbana, Tom Ford, Max Mara, Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Richard Quinn, Michael Kors Collection, Carolina Herrera and Altuzarra.

Worst... or the biggest disappointment was Seán McGirr's Alexander McQueen.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Soooo many good ones this season I'm still feeling so happy about it

NY:
Carolina Herrera
Elena Velez

London:

Milan:
Bottega Veneta
Emporio Armani
Giorgio Armani
MM6
Tod's
Tom Ford

Paris:
Alaia
Chloe
Dries Van Noten
Loewe
Louis Vuitton
Lutz Huelle
Mame Kurogouchi
Noir Kei Ninomiya
RABANNE
Saint Laurent
Yohji Yamamoto

Not even gonna say anything negative. The good outweighs the bad by a landslide.

 

[Lola701]

What a good and unexpected season!

Best shows.

NYFW:
- Diotima
- Altuzarra

LFW:
- Burberry

MFW:
- Bottega Veneta
- N21
- Moschino
- Tod’s
- Missoni

PFW:
- Louis Vuitton
- Stella McCartney
- Chloe

Honorable mention for Loewe, Lutz Huelle, Junya Watanabe and MiuMiu.


The worst show of the season for me was PRADA!

 

[gallianostan]

all round awful season. too many bad shows i can't list them all.

the best was yohji, by far. issey miyake was great too. can't say i care for the rest.

a select few (mcqueen, schiap; nina ricci; harris reed; quinn; jw anderson) can burn until the end of time.

 

[bc collector]

Worth mentioning in Paris: Undercover, who at a certain point seemed to be in a rut as far as womenswear was concerned, and delivered two memorable shows this season and the last.
And Valentino, Pierpaolo is still capable of delivering, when he wants.
All in all, I think Milan had a pretty decent season, with the names already mentioned by @Lola701 (plus Del Core) : I mean, nothing groundbreaking but who cares at this point of desperation we are all in?...give me a solid, coherent, identifiable and wearable collection and I'm in.

Lowest point (among the many) :
indisputably, Mc Queen. It's like, you ask for a line of coke and get a coke.

p.s.: NY and London for me don't register any more.

 

[pradn]

New York:
Jason Wu
Carolina Herrera

LONDON:
Burberry
Erdem

MILAN:
Dolce & Gabbana
No.21
Alberta Ferretti
Moschino
Tom Ford

PARIS:
Saint Laurent
Chloé
Valentino
Louis Vuitton

Honorable Mention:
Prada, Rabanne, Ancora Part.II (because it's improving than Part.I) & Givenchy

Worst:
Area (those Googly Eyes!) & McQueen (especially the one with blue Aston Martin dress, THAT WALK!). Both of them still haunts me until now.

 

[Ruito]

My favorite 10 shows of the F/W '24 season:
1) Loewe
2) Bottega Veneta
3) Dries Van Noten
4) Undercover
5) Chloé
6) Schiaparelli
7) Altuzarra
8) Prada
9) Alaïa
10) Lemaire

 

[McQ20]

Best:
-Sacai: not as flawless as last season but Chitose knows her stuff and still keeps it fresh
-Saint Laurent: it gave the strongest "vibes" with its cinematic realness, but the clothes were not my favorite
-Chloe: I loved the soundtrack, at first glance it seemed not as tight and sharp as a collection but reseeing the campaign-esque photos of the runway looks on IG made me see it more positively
-Courreges: Strong, consistent, and has an identifiable POV
-Missoni: Biggest surprise in Milan. It was warm, and luxurious with some looks that almost reminded me of the best of Karl at Fendi (some wonky pieces here and there) but overall nice and desirable

Good
-Max Mara: Good stylish staples, the set was a bit too cold for the collection
-Alaia: Strong shapes, but somehow drowned the body in fabrics (still best collection from Peter)
-Marc Jacobs: Nostalgic and charming just like the best late 2000s and early 2010s shows of his
-Altuzarra: Something was alluring about the simplicity and unforced styling this season (well except for the hats)
-Moschino: Clever ideas, and strong for a debut (with few months to prepare). Looking forward to what he does next.
-Undercover: Never been a fan of this brand but I appreciate the thought-provoking aspect of this collection

Special Mention
-Saint Laurent Men's Timing was a bit off (almost an afterthought) but I appreciate the fact that they still showed. This must have been the strongest and most convincing men's collection for Vacarello. Strong casting and nice music as usual. I didn't appreciate the rehashing of the venue but still, the clothes saved the show (opposite of his women's showing).
-Dunhill London: Classic menswear done properly.

Disappointing
-Bottega Veneta: I was hoping that they'd save Milan but Matthew played it too safe this time. It was lukewarm.
-Louis Vuitton: I thought Nicolas got his mojo back based on what he presented last season (a clean and tight collection) but it was drizzled by once again ugliness and heaviness. Though some looks were homage to his best hits, he could have left them out of the show.
-Dior: I'd rather have a proper (slightly boring) collection than a collection filled with cheap graffiti
-Dries Van Noten: There were nice pieces but I wish he could do more unrestrained and decadent collections again


Worst
-McQueen: All over the place and so lost in POV and even technique
-Gucci: It just confirmed the limitedness of Sabato as a Creative Director (hope lowered for the next seasons). Even the accessories and bags looked like unironic bootleg versions.
-Balenciaga: Relevance: 0%
Bad as usual: Prada, Chanel, Versace, Fendi, Balmain, Loewe, JW Anderson

Overall: I was surprised how weak Milan was this season, it's usually the week I look forward to (even more than Paris). Again, just as I said on the Best Menswear Shows (F/W 2024), it would be good for houses (esp. big ones) to divorce their women's and men's shows. Having separate shows will further highlight a designer's style and POV as well as narrow the focus of each collection (brands who need to divorce their co-ed shows: Versace, Bottega Veneta, Burberry).

 

[disco54]

My top 5

1) Chloe
2) Dries Van Noten
3) Schiaparelli
4) Bottega Veneta
5) Moschino

 

[VetOfOldNavy]

The highlights for me were Yohji, Issey Miyake, Rabanne, Noir Kei Ninomiya, and Michael Kors. I felt that Louis V and Moschino were alright but worse than the others.

I was annoyed with The Row, McQueen, Gucci, and every single NYFW show apart from Michael. London didnt really register for me at all.

Khaite annoyed me especially because the show looked pretty decent on iPhone videos that compensated for the bad lighting, but hard to appreciate and actually have a good look at everywhere else.

 

[gossiping]

Best in order:
Louis Vuitton
Chloe
Valentino
Chanel
Saint Laurent
Missoni
Gucci
Elie Saab
Ferragamo
Burberry
Dolce & Gabbana
Alberta Ferretti
Khaite

Worst:
McQueen, Vetements, Isabel Marant, Off White, Fendi, Nina Ricci

 

[Scotty]

Best:
Chloé
Dolce & Gabbana
Schiaparelli
N°21
YSL
Missoni
Burburry

Worst:
Chanel
Dior
Gucci
Alexander McQueen
Prada
Balenciaga
Givenchy

So it's safe to say the mighty have fallen.

 

[gallianostan]

Worst:
Chanel
Dior
Gucci
Alexander McQueen
Prada
Balenciaga
Givenchy

christ, this is depressing

 

[Meh]

Men's best was Dries Van Noten.

 

[tourbillions]

my favorites are louis vuitton, missoni and saint laurent.

goes without saying worst was mcqueen. cant even say its disappointing since it was already expected to be far from what mcqueen and burton offered based on the previews.

 

[Ruito]

Does anyone here have BoF who can kindly supply me with scans from their top shows of the season? Thanks in advance.

 

[Tchi]

Gotta be Celine. The only show that was in its refined impeccable simplicity truly disruptive.
Basta Phoebe, basta quiet luxury.
Loewe was Loewe, nobrainer, cute, but a bit boring.
LV was really nice for a change.
Miu miu very beautiful.
Chloe back in 2005, was ok, but the beauty is something else.
McQueen was truly messy and felt like a dead corpse, still more McQueen than Sarah Burton’s upper class palm beach bourgeoises.
Really liked Moschino.
BALENCIAGA was finally back to the old standards.
Prada was pretty from the front, but then.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

Hodokova
Marie adam-leenaerdt
Moschino
Supriya lele
Willy Chavarria
Marc Jacobs

 

[andrewjone]

Now that Paris is officially over, thought we'd waste no time, like always, in selecting the best and worst of the F/W 2024.25 season!

For me, as per usual, Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent was a personal highlight for me.

Also loved Schiaparelli, Isabel Marant, Chloé, Dolce & Gabbana, Tom Ford, Max Mara, Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Richard Quinn, Michael Kors Collection, Carolina Herrera and Altuzarra.

Worst... or the biggest disappointment was Seán McGirr's Alexander McQueen.

Seán McGirr's Alexander McQueen collection was a disappointment. The designs were not as innovative or visually appealing as previous seasons. The collection lacked the signature quirky and surreal elements that made McQueen's work so memorable.

 

[Cerise Vendome]

New York:
Jason Wu
Altuzarra
Michael Kors

London:
Burberry
Richard Quinn

Milan:
Bottega
Ferragamo
Tom Ford

Paris:
Celine
Alaia
Miumiu