Best of the season:
Ashish - Sexy, simple, with lush colours.
Preen - Interesting play with volumes and proportions!
Margaret Howell - Effortless, unassuming and to the point.
Issey Miyake
Sportmax - Stayed true to form. Insanely covetable proportions.
Loewe - I've never been on the Anderson bandwagon, but I think at Loewe he's really been getting better with each collection.
Yohji Yamamoto
Ulla Johnson
Balenciaga - Hope it's a sign of things to come from Demna....
Max Mara
House of Holland
Poiret - Breezy and accessible with great colours.
Carolina Herrera - Beautifully captured mix of classic and contemporary! Take notes, ODLR and Kors.
Boss - It's what I would've wanted to see at Calvin Klein. Yes, I'm a purist, shoot me. Wu at Boss has been a revelation to me. It's surprising how he can fall in line with codes at another house, yet can't seem to put together a decent collection for his namesake brand. That says a lot as a designer.
Margiela
Fendi
Akris
Comme des Garcons - I think she rejuvenated her cult by dabbling with wearable designs! And very strategic for not doing that around the time of the MET.
Cushnie, Tome & Gabriella Hearst - Elegant and wearable American glamour done right!
Simone Rocha - Some drama and experimentation!
Roland Mouret - Bowled me over from start to end.
Mugler
On the fence......
Christopher Kane - Exceptional detailing, just wish he paired it better!
Escada - I like the take on the new Escada. I think there's some potential for them to become big. It's just time to look closely at their looks and aesthetic, and push the strongest ones harder.
Mary Katrantzou - Ok collection. I looked at it again and can certainly admire her aesthetic. Let's hope you'll get back to basics for the next one!
Peter Pilotto - Colours and silhouettes look great, but could do with more creative elements.
Julian Macdonald - It feels great to see such diversity in London. Unapologetically sexy and glamorous, but a bit too much like Balmain's ugly stepsister.
Jil Sander - So so, loved pieces here and there, but no a defined enough collection.
Meh, but I'll give you a pass...
Eckhaus Latta - Their 'off' collection, hopefully they'll be back in top form for Winter!
Mansur Gavriel - Loved his unique direction of heavier pieces for summer while everyone else was throwing out more hues than the Color Run. But as a whole something was missing.
Coach - I like that Vevers once again drilled home his new codes for Coach, but hated the lack of coherence.
Matty Bovan - Textbook London in terms of sensibility, would like to see it him tackle another subject matter.
Ferragamo - Keen to see how they'll expand with the rebranding.
Gucci - Michele need to slowly work his way out of this maximalism trend because it will cave down on him like a pack of card. I saw some exit strategies in this collection. Fine tune them, now!
Anrealage
What happened?????
Gareth Pugh - Whatever that was, shut it down!
Armani - A collection which strongest point was the colours.
Badgley & Mischka - It was their 30th anniversary. Expected something grand, maybe even comprehensive. Their clientele don't live for hype and trends, so a collection updating some of their key looks would've been great.
Molly Goddard - Everywhere I turn I see her name, but the clothes doesnt live up to the hype.
Prabal Gurung -
Rodarte - Looked like a parody of fashion. They';ve definitely lost their mojo
Marc Jacobs - Campy, tacky, corny. Actually, I'm beginning to believe Marc would be a great fit at Moschino.
Chalayan - Gives new meaning to the term 'going through the motions'
Richard Quinn - Too scattered.
Oscar De La Renta - I worry about them. There's not enough to keep the existing clientele happy, and not enough to draw new ones.
Andreas Kronthaler
for Vivienne Westwood - Cliched!
Isabel Marant
Of course it was irrelevant....
Philip Plein
Altuzarra - Like I said, 'always the bridesmaid'....
Brandon Maxwell - Lazy, contrived, perfect fodder for a boutique in Texas!
Off White > Pyer Moss > Kanye West - Birds of a feather
Michael Kors - Desperate for millennial dollars!
Jeremy Scott
Dior
Temperley
Tod's
Dolce & Gabbana
Balmain
Elie Saab
Not invested enough to care!
Burberry
Proenza Schouler
Saint Laurent and all their clones which among others includes Celine and Redemption
Anna Sui
Alexa Chung
Louis Vuitton
Chanel
Victoria Beckham
Dries van Noten
Chloe
Givenchy
Calvin Klein
John Galliano
Prada
So dreamy, seductive, and perfect.
