Yves Saint Laurent on Tom Ford: talent for marketing, not for YSL
PARIS (AFP) - Yves Saint Laurent spoke out about Tom Ford, telling Women's Wear Daily that while the outgoing YSL ready-to-wear designer was a marketing genius, his ideas never reflected the spirit of the label.
"It was only Saint Laurent in name but not in its vitality," the legendary French couturier told the US fashion industry publication. "His fashion was contrary to Yves Saint Laurent."
"I think he has a lot of talent for, what do you call it, marketing. But he never showed interest in the archives," Saint Laurent said of Ford, who will unveil his final YSL collection on March 7.
The French designer, who never forged close ties with Ford, told WWD that the American's successor "must know perfectly what I've done and at what moment I did it," adding that finding such a person would be no small task.
"Everyone's looking for the rare bird. I don't know if he is alive, or if he is still alive," Saint Laurent said, refusing to name any names.
In the wide-ranging interview with WWD, Saint Laurent bemoaned the state of haute couture, saying: "Couture is dead. There are no longer women to wear it. It's become something else."
"I've never seen anything good. I think, without pretension, that this metier ended with me," he added.
Since Saint Laurent closed his couture house, he said he has seen "frightening things" in the glossy magazines, "even in Vogue".
"The sadomasochism -- it became unbearable," he added.
According to the Frenchman, the only designer "who had talent and force" was Claude Montana, but "he burned his brain with narcotics and he is incapable of doing anything today."
As for John Galliano, chief designer for Christian Dior womenswear and a media darling like Ford, Saint Laurent said he has "the genius of showmanship" but "there is too much costume, too much theater" in his collections and shows.
Saint Laurent said that while he still dreams up designs in his head, he does not regret leaving the business as he is "fragile" and has to "lead a peaceful life."
The Pierre Berge-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation, created after the closure of the YSL haute couture house in October 2002, will open on March 10 with a show entitled "Yves Saint Laurent and his art", set to run through July 18.
More than 40 ensembles created by the legendary French designer will be on display, along with the works of art that inspired him, by the likes of Piet Mondrian, Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol.
PARIS (AFP) - Yves Saint Laurent spoke out about Tom Ford, telling Women's Wear Daily that while the outgoing YSL ready-to-wear designer was a marketing genius, his ideas never reflected the spirit of the label.
"It was only Saint Laurent in name but not in its vitality," the legendary French couturier told the US fashion industry publication. "His fashion was contrary to Yves Saint Laurent."
"I think he has a lot of talent for, what do you call it, marketing. But he never showed interest in the archives," Saint Laurent said of Ford, who will unveil his final YSL collection on March 7.
The French designer, who never forged close ties with Ford, told WWD that the American's successor "must know perfectly what I've done and at what moment I did it," adding that finding such a person would be no small task.
"Everyone's looking for the rare bird. I don't know if he is alive, or if he is still alive," Saint Laurent said, refusing to name any names.
In the wide-ranging interview with WWD, Saint Laurent bemoaned the state of haute couture, saying: "Couture is dead. There are no longer women to wear it. It's become something else."
"I've never seen anything good. I think, without pretension, that this metier ended with me," he added.
Since Saint Laurent closed his couture house, he said he has seen "frightening things" in the glossy magazines, "even in Vogue".
"The sadomasochism -- it became unbearable," he added.
According to the Frenchman, the only designer "who had talent and force" was Claude Montana, but "he burned his brain with narcotics and he is incapable of doing anything today."
As for John Galliano, chief designer for Christian Dior womenswear and a media darling like Ford, Saint Laurent said he has "the genius of showmanship" but "there is too much costume, too much theater" in his collections and shows.
Saint Laurent said that while he still dreams up designs in his head, he does not regret leaving the business as he is "fragile" and has to "lead a peaceful life."
The Pierre Berge-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation, created after the closure of the YSL haute couture house in October 2002, will open on March 10 with a show entitled "Yves Saint Laurent and his art", set to run through July 18.
More than 40 ensembles created by the legendary French designer will be on display, along with the works of art that inspired him, by the likes of Piet Mondrian, Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol.
..i'm afraid that we've missed something really special that will never be again...i just keep hoping for the best because fashion is an evolving business and we are the future...if we want it badly enough, maybe together we can bring it back to some semblance of greatness...we have to support the really talented designers/artists. it will have to be an actual movement, though-similar to what the Belgians did in the 90's and what the Japanese did in the 80's. the english have been trying and trying but it's not working somehow...
