A Retrospective: Emanuel Ungaro (1965-2005)

[jeanclaude]

I have never liked his work; but I appreciate very much the fact that he was a true couturier, someone who was able to make a garment with his own hands and without any help (something that is sadly soo rare these days).

I still really don´t know what were they thinking when they chose to reemplace a Balenciaga disciple with the likes of Stella Jean and Lindsay Lohan...the most bizarre decision seen in this industry so far.

We can expect lots of rip-offs of Ungaro´s work for the next seasons to come. Guys playing fashion designer, like Olivier Rousteing, must be anxious to copy from Emmanuel (and in Olivier´s case, he must be touching himself with all those Ungaro 80s collections he can steal looks from).

 

[Benn98]

Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2002



Livingly

 

[Benn98]

Livingly

 

[Benn98]

Haute couture Spring/Summer 2003



Livingly

 

[Benn98]

Livingly

 

[Benn98]

Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2004



Livingly

 

[Benn98]

The Covers



Pinterest, Flickr, Tumblr

 

[Lola701]

@Benn98 SS03 was by Giambattista Valli...
Ungaro was a name I heard of growing up because he was like one of those gods of Couture like Jean Louis Scherrer.
People try to reduce his work to what he did in the 80´s but I think he was as strong in the late 90’s/early 00’s. Except for Chanel, I’m not a big fan of 80’s Couture with all his grandeur but Ungaro surely pushed the boundaries in terms of ruffles and excess.

It’s very tough to remain modern all your career but Ungaro remained that way all his career, much like Valentino or Karl. For me, he invented the kind of French exhuberant sexiness that was very much Mediterranean. I never saw his woman as a Parisian chic...That’s why Giambattista Valli and Peter Dundas perfectly interpreted what he did.

Look at the exhuberance of his bohemian chic Couture. Completely fearless and chic. It could have looked trash by others. People talk about YSL but Ungaro was capable of combination nobody would think of...

What I’ve always loved was the fact that he groomed his successor and the combination of both in Couture and RTW was perfect. It’s a pity that the Ferragamo sold the company and that it became a mess. But I think Ungaro, with the right strategy can be great again.

 

[MagFan]

remove SS 2002 rtw it was by Valli as well. FW 2001 rtw is Valli's first or Emanuel's last

 

[TaylorBinque]

I have always enjoy his work. The way to balance excess and over-the-top with skilful hands and restraints was beautiful. Indeed he remained modern all the way in his career and I really appreciate how to take the 80's to the 90's and early 2000's. The way his women walk down the runway are what Heidi and Vaccarello want their YSL girls to be. Fearless, modern, sexy but Ungaro women came with unexpected twist. A grad gesture, a charisma, a personal characteristic that made them who they are. It's magnificent to watch. And to see how the 80's trend roll out on runways and with Instagram-designers, his clothes remain edgy, modern and ahead of the time. His clothes are just perfectly executed. It's almost a crime when I see some designers try to make Ungaro reference and they don't have skills to match it.

 

[kasper!]

Goodbye Mr Ungaro. Thank you for adding more colours to this world.

#morespaceforhoodiedesigner

 

[blueorchid]

Vogue US December 1985
"Themes and Variations: Expressions of a Unique Style of Ungaro"
Photographer: Deborah Turbeville, Irving Penn
Models: Anh Duong, Marie-Sophie Wilson, Rosima Dominguez
Hair: Edward Tricomi
Makeup: Cindy Joseph



voguearchive via justaguy

 

[blueorchid]

Vogue US December 1985
"Emanuel Ungaro" by Holly Brubach
Photographer: Deborah Turbeville
Models: Anh Duong, Marie-Sophie Wilson, Rosima Dominguez
Hair: Edward Tricomi
Makeup: Cindy Joseph


voguearchive via justaguy

 

[blueorchid]

Vogue US November 1991
"Ungaro Fortissimo" by Georgina Howell
Editor: André Leon Talley
Photographer: Eric Borman





voguearchive

 

[blueorchid]

Vogue Paris September 1972
"Collections 72-73"
Featuring: Chichinou Kappler, Regine Jaffrey, Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro, Louis Féraud, Marc Bohan
Photographer: Helmut Newton
Hair: Jean-Louis David




ciaovogue.blogspot.com

 

[blueorchid]

Vogue US February 1975
"European Fashion: The Movers"
Featuring: Emanuel Ungaro, Sylvia de Waldner, Florence Grinda
Photographer: Deborah Turbeville

voguearchive via justaguy

 

[blueorchid]

Vinyl Coat - Fall/Winter 1969



Vogue US November 15, 1969 (Photographer: Irving Penn)



palaisgalliera.paris.fr
Vogue Archive via justaguy

 

[blueorchid]

Emanuel Ungaro Haute Couture & Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 1968/69
Photographed by: Bill Ray (for Life Magazine)



artsandculture.google

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Recently watched Gloria starring Gena Rowlands, and the costuming gave me a new appreciation for Ungaro's work. Most of the costumes were from the boutique line (could be all, hard to tell) but the sheer glamourous ease they have is absolutely gorgeous.

Rather smitten with the black silk satin skirt suit with claret satin blouse (?) worn underneath. Utterly chic, easy and sumptuous. Wonder if Tom Ford took a note or two from the film for some of his collections.

 

[runner]

they say it's ungaro customised by peggy farrell, the costume designer there, to match gloria/rowlands (its inversed version, leon/jean reno). like shortening the skirt, making the shoulders padded, etc, maybe for some aggression.

Emanuel Ungaro clothes: Miss Rowlands

cahiersdemode