The Red Carpet Highlights of... The 77th Annual Cannes Film Festival 2024!
HMMM i got rid of the stars in the URL but it's still not working for me...
personally, i think ss04 and aw04 were more costumey than ss03. ss03 felt like genuine, interesting experimentations in volume and proportion. the use of brooms as crinoline, those giant opera coats and outsized kimonos... it was extraordinaryIt's because of this collection I have a pair of cowhide derby docs with leopard print on them... And I love it.
Interesting how he took the manipulations from the Egyptian collection and made it into this. I find this to be a far more interesting offering than that couture show, which I find too saccharine and cliche with all it's tropes, fabrics and gestures. That show was between some of the most decadent couture collections though regarding fabric abundance. Between Spring 2003 and Fall 2004 couture collection, John certainly was feeling rather costumey (much like the Fall 1998 couture show).
1997-2003 was a real golden age. the whole decon/recon direction he thrust dior into after the matrix showing has produced some of my favourite collections in fashion history. les clochards and freud/fetish in particular were absolutely sublime. aw02 is another huge standout.^ Oh don't get me wrong, I love Spring 2003 couture collection. It was the right kind of costumey, and was very innovative in ways that wasn't expected whilst still being so clear with the research and references that didn't make it all so obvious. Then there's the extravaganza of Fall 2003 which again was the right kind, but the following two were a trajectory that became a little too much.
But Galliano went through many of these phases during his time at Dior. Causes a strange cord to get cut that makes for a great following collection/s. Without the backlash of Fall 1998, we wouldn't get the personal palate cleanser of Spring 1999 (that wasn't that great, but was welcomed) which brought about Fall 1999 "Matrix" collection which kick started a new phase. Happens again between Fall 2004 and Spring 2005, then from Spring 2008-ish to the end of his tenure the whole push pull of it all was happening rapidly. Spring 2009 to Spring 2010 couture were kind of awful (particularly 2010... horrible stuffy satin pieces I'm sorry), but then Fall 2011 rolls around is fresh by comparison. This is all a bit generalised, because you also have moments like the 'Eyes Wide Shut'/Visconti collection.
It's always interesting to revisit his sets of collections, because much like his shows, Galliano's design tenure has very distinctive acts. Somewhat evident at Margiela too.