Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[kasper!]

Bali Barret, who is women's artistic director of Hermès, will quit in this October.

 

[Nymphaea]

^Please bring in someone who is more elegant & chic in a modern way to complement their Birkins and Kellys.

 

[Lola701]

^Please bring in someone who is more elegant & chic in a modern way to complement their Birkins and Kellys.

What she did can be viewed as what Jacques Helleu did with Chanel. She was really an Artistic Director for Hermès womenswear department. Gaultier, Lemaire and Nadège worked with her and Pierre Hardy. Much like Pierre Hardy, she had a permanent position in the house and she made sure that in the stores and in the campaigns, the clothes complimented the products.

If you pay attention, Hermès is still managed differently from all the brands. Despite all the designers they have had, they never changed their communication, position or even way to manage their business. It’s not a fashion house after all...

 

[Nymphaea]

Thank you Lola, but I did pay attention.

 

[kasper!]

Zegna groups is selling Agnona, and Stefano Aimone is replacing Simon Holloway.

Info from BoF

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Didn't want to resurrect the Kooples separate thread but apparently Tom Van Dorpe is the creative director there now...?

 

[Marc10]

 

[Lola701]

« I’ve always dreamed of Courreges »...Really? Stop lying! Nobody’s dreaming of Courreges in the 2000’s!

Hopefully, the suits will give him the time necessary to establish his aesthetic...

 

[GERGIN]

Was he working for Balenciaga and LV under Nicolas I assume?

 

[JohannesL]

Never heard of him, but happy for someone who is not a hype designer!

 

[bc collector]

I'm speechless, really...
This is not a problem of who the designer is (the guys that now do Coperni were not bad at all, imo).
It's the brand itself, a fact obvious to everyone but the suits in charge.

They are flogging a dead horse. How long will it take them to realize that?


p.s.: I'm happy to see that not only Nicolas is a great designer in his own right but he's mentored a number of talented people like only Tom Ford has before.

 

[jeanclaude]

The problem with Courrèges is they insist in keeping it looking dated. All the designers in charge there always fall in the same trap: 1960s carbon-copies.

If they want to relauch this brand, they need to ditch the retro-futuristic style. And just focus in a new futuristic style; because when André launched the brand it obviously didn´t look dated at all!

They need to think about what is futuristic now in 2020; not what was futuristic back in 1960s.

 

[helmutnotdead]

this has to be the saddest era of history to be in charge of any fashion project.

I just don’t want to be mean but we all know that he’s going to be here like four seasons or even less.

 

[Lola701]

It’s interesting to see how Nicolas’s alumni takes over 60’s brands! Courreges, Paco Rabanne and to a certain extend Chloé...Going back to the fact that they all worked at Balenciaga (a brand influential in the 60’s).

With the right strategy, it can work. We saw it at Paco Rabanne...
From a creative POV, I don’t want to see another variation on Nicolas’s early Vuitton collections. The guys from Coperni were clever but in retrospective, their vision wasn’t international enough!
The 1960’s fantasy of Françoise Hardy and stuff only works in Paris and in it fashion circles.

I wonder if MAS will be involved!

 

[dior_couture1245]

Another "tasteful" Instagram gay gets a promotion.

 

[Lola701]

Another "tasteful" Instagram gay gets a promotion.

I don’t think a lot of people run for the position tbh. Head hunters surely did the job or were inspired by what happened at Paco Rabanne but if I was a designer, I would rather anywhere else than there...

 

[jeanclaude]

but if I was a designer, I would rather anywhere else than there...

Working for a dead brand could be an interesting challenge if they give this guy enough creative freedom in order to try to relaunch Courrèges from a different perspective...but if the execs keep the same closed-minded atittude they had so far (and which has placed this brand on the verge of disappearance), it sure is going to feel like a torture working there for this new designer.

Because let´s face it: it is not a wise move trying to keep this brand afloat, when they insist in selling the same PVC dated clothes in a sustainability-obsessed era.

 

[tricotineacetat]

It’s interesting to see how Nicolas’s alumni takes over 60’s brands! Courreges, Paco Rabanne and to a certain extend Chloé...Going back to the fact that they all worked at Balenciaga (a brand influential in the 60’s).

With the right strategy, it can work. We saw it at Paco Rabanne...
From a creative POV, I don’t want to see another variation on Nicolas’s early Vuitton collections. The guys from Coperni were clever but in retrospective, their vision wasn’t international enough!
The 1960’s fantasy of Françoise Hardy and stuff only works in Paris and in it fashion circles.

I wonder if MAS will be involved!

I think in the end of the day, what the guys from Coperni did very well was to offer modern Courreges-ish separates, like a nice outerwear jacket, a mini dress or skirt - pieces that could easily find a place in the closets of many (young) women around the globe - But I feel for a niche brand without the resources of LVMH or Kering, a more 'contemporary' positioning as previously seen at Carven or Kenzo would have proven more successful.

 

[tatouejeremie]

there are very strong rumours going around that phoebe philo is heading to alaia, they've been doing quite a few new hires at alaia so something definitely seems to be happening over there.

 

[helmutnotdead]

I'd die.