Hedi Slimane - Designer, Creative Director of Celine

[Lola701]

With Galliano's rehabilitation campaign, the numerous celebs wearing Margiela, met gala, etc. I wouldn't be surprised he comes back. Lauren Sherman recently on Puck's Fashion podcast made the point about if John Galliano and Sidney Toledano make amends, it would this epic fashion love story of redemption.
Also Toledano's history with Hedi could likely repair whatever contract issues he may have had with Burke.

Was Burke really involved in the day to day operations since the death of his wife though? Negociations may have started before with the Arnault probably.

 

[style_expert]

Renzo Rosso proudly posting about Galliano looks from the Met Gala is not an indication of him letting him go…
They have ride that Couture collection buzz for the longest.
The thing is I’m not a buyer so I don’t know about the RTW collections and how they are going to communicate on them. But he is still in contract so the collections are made anyway (as stuff has to be sold).

We will see in October indeed (even if Renzo would be a fool to let him go without a fight).

But that mean also that if he leaves Margiela, his non-competition will end in October 2025. So no official first collection until 2026…

So for a brand like Givenchy, it will mean literally more than 1 year (and how many seasons) without a CD.

I think Renzo Rosso more than anything listens to Anna Wintour...isn't that how Galliano ended up at Margiela in the first place?
Since she is so absolutely obsessed with getting Galliano something more prestigious I'm sure she has found ways to please Rosso too, maybe some leftover talent she's trying to push and make happen.
The MET Gala has been insane with the amount of publicity generated for Galliano/Margiela. I'm sure LOEWE had to spend a lot more to generate the same amount of publicity. Rosso can't complain to be honest.

More than Galliano leaving Margiela, I think the uncertainty is still at LVMH...they realize they need a big moment at Givenchy but given recent developments I think they are uncertain about any backlash such an announcement could possibly create

 

[Lola701]

I think Renzo Rosso more than anything listens to Anna Wintour...isn't that how Galliano ended up at Margiela in the first place?
Since she is so absolutely obsessed with getting Galliano something more prestigious I'm sure she has found ways to please Rosso too, maybe some leftover talent she's trying to push and make happen.
The MET Gala has been insane with the amount of publicity generated for Galliano/Margiela. I'm sure LOEWE had to spend a lot more to generate the same amount of publicity. Rosso can't complain to be honest.

More than Galliano leaving Margiela, I think the uncertainty is still at LVMH...they realize they need a big moment at Givenchy but given recent developments I think they are uncertain about any backlash such an announcement could possibly create

My thing is that the LVMH discussion and everything is very oriented in what Anna might want for him, what fans wants for him…But ultimately, Galliano is an adult right? We assume that he may want to leave Margiela for what?
I think the idea of Anna Wintour as his guardian is cool but at the end of the day, he is the one in the position.

Does Anna has the same impact today that she had 10 years ago over at LVMH? All the hiring at LVMH in the past 10 years weren’t her decision. It was all about the influence of Delphine or Alexandre.

I try to put myself in the shoes of someone like John. Obviously, he is in a good working relationship with Renzo Rosso. He is not even pressured to have shows. The machine at Margiela is probably more free than at LVMH, so why as a designer, I would put myself in that much pressure with a job like Givenchy.

For me the buzz around the Margiela collection is an opportunity to put even more budget on Margiela.

The consensus is that apparently people wants him back at LVMH but does he?

 

[style_expert]

^judging from the documentary I'm not sure whether Galliano really is that much aware of his own position. Obviously it's not like he would be forced to work again for LVMH under a multi-million contract against his own will. But from an amateur psychology point of view it seemed like he is very much looking for that kind of validation/rehabilitation by LVMH, whether or not pushed by Anna Wintour is maybe even beyond the point. Surely he has regained a lot of confidence from his time at Margiela but let's not forget that he was coming from an absolute extreme high at Dior so maybe he's regaining a little bit of his appetite for that kind of redemption.

Anna obviously has less impact than before, so this whole ordeal could be an interesting test case for her persistence and power in todays climate. I totally agree BTW that the best thing for Galliano himself would be to stay away from LVMH as far as possible.

 

[Lola701]

^judging from the documentary I'm not sure whether Galliano really is that much aware of his own position. Obviously it's not like he would be forced to work again for LVMH under a multi-million contract against his own will. But from an amateur psychology point of view it seemed like he is very much looking for that kind of validation/rehabilitation by LVMH, whether or not pushed by Anna Wintour is maybe even beyond the point. Surely he has regained a lot of confidence from his time at Margiela but let's not forget that he was coming from an absolute extreme high at Dior so maybe he's regaining a little bit of his appetite for that kind of redemption.

Anna obviously has less impact than before, so this whole ordeal could be an interesting test case for her persistence and power in todays climate. I totally agree BTW that the best thing for Galliano himself would be to stay away from LVMH as far as possible.

I must add that my reservation for Galliano being back at an LVMH brand has less to do with LVMH itself, as I think they have always tried to have the best interest of the talents (and more those who they really like) at heart, but more with what it comes with: pressure, delivering many collections, handling many things at the same time…etc.

Something like doing a Couture collection, riding on it for 6 months without anything to back up would be impossible for him at Givenchy.

 

[gallianostan]

all this talk about how difficult givenchy would be but he was at christian dior for fourteen years...

i think he can handle givenchy lmao, which presents only two more collections a year than margiela does (or did, up until covid)

 

[Creative]

So sales have slowed but Bernie continues to highlight their performances to the shareholders, who are by the way the only ones aware of the true numbers in the group?

Who are those industry sources?

I can see Céline figures and they have slowed down… a lot in some European areas.

 

[PDFSD]

The amount of campaigns they are dumping over the last few weeks...definitely feels like they are trying to purge all of the Hedi Slimane credited content before the formal announcement of creative change

Its the normal cycle of the drops i dont feel its dumping as it's the way to keep constant fresh drops like most big brands have with different names or colabs.

 

[PDFSD]

I think Renzo Rosso more than anything listens to Anna Wintour...isn't that how Galliano ended up at Margiela in the first place?
Since she is so absolutely obsessed with getting Galliano something more prestigious I'm sure she has found ways to please Rosso too, maybe some leftover talent she's trying to push and make happen.
The MET Gala has been insane with the amount of publicity generated for Galliano/Margiela. I'm sure LOEWE had to spend a lot more to generate the same amount of publicity. Rosso can't complain to be honest.

More than Galliano leaving Margiela, I think the uncertainty is still at LVMH...they realize they need a big moment at Givenchy but given recent developments I think they are uncertain about any backlash such an announcement could possibly create

Thinking of it with more distance up to this last HC show, did John really push or renew himself or give is best at Margiela ? i feel it's been a pet project and self indulging in his mad hatter creative side and not so much sharpening or renewing his vision i feel this one HC hype might disappear as fast as it came and leave John in a even more niche corner than before.

 

[Lola701]

all this talk about how difficult givenchy would be but he was at christian dior for fourteen years...

i think he can handle givenchy lmao, which presents only two more collections a year than margiela does (or did, up until covid)

We saw how Dior ended….
Givenchy would exactly be where Dior was when he took over so it means that it would need his full investment.

We will see eventually… we just have to wait I guess.

 

[gallianostan]

Thinking of it with more distance up to this last HC show, did John really push or renew himself or give is best at Margiela ? i feel it's been a pet project and self indulging in his mad hatter creative side and not so much sharpening or renewing his vision i feel this one HC hype might disappear as fast as it came and leave John in a even more niche corner than before.

absolutely. what he did for this margiela show is far less relevant than what he did at dior

 

[FiLReD]

checking this thread reminds me of the weekly horoscope of my dear Madame Clairevoyant.
which brings me to her latest one for our supersensitive cancer Hedi - born on the 5th of July 1968.
does she already has the answer to the burning (aka boring!) question?

Your Weekly Horoscopes May 19–25​

CANCER
Your routines can be supportive. They provide structure to your days, and they help you stay on track when you’re unsure what to do or your energy starts to flag. Sometimes, though, they leave you stuck, prevent you from growing, learning, taking new risks. This week is a good time to release habits that no longer serve you, or the fear holding you back, or the doubt keeping you trapped in place. You have the opportunity to step away from the structures that aren’t actually working for you and to create something new in their place.

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