Textile Design

[gius]

If you've ever wondered what Textile Designers do, besides just making prints, or wondered about the many different ways to make fabrics, this is the place...
Liz Collins - KNITTED textile

Liz Collins is an artist and designer, recognized internationally for her use of machine knitting to create ground-breaking clothing, textiles, and 3-D installations.
After five years as an independent designer of seasonal ready-to-wear collections in New York City, Collins returned to her alma mater, Rhode Island School of Design, as an Assistant Professor in the Textile Department. In addition to teaching, Collins currently designs knitwear under her own label, which she sells at trunk sales and select boutiques in New York and Tokyo. She also collaborates with other designers, producing signature knit pieces and collections for them. A member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Collins was has been cited by the New York Times as a creator of “brilliantly crafted” garments and a “designer with many industry accolades”. In the spring of 2005, a new facet of Collins’ work emerged: a series of performance-based installations called “KNITTING NATION”, that employ uniformed machine knitters to create a multi-sensory experience that examines the relationship of humans to manufacturing and the process of machine knitting. Collins is a 2006 United States Artists Target Fellow in Crafts and Traditional Arts, and received at $50,000 fellowship award for this honor.

lizcollins.com / fashioning fabrics - Elyssa da Cruz

 

[gius]

Márcia Ganem - embroidered, woven textile

By using special techniques and materials developed through research and development, Márcia Ganem expresses in her creations a dialogue between fashion, art, and jewellery.
Márcia Ganem is part of a select group of designers which participate in Rio de Janiero's fashion week -- Fashion Rio where their new collections are revealed. These are known for their strong cultural references.
The designer is currently a member of the "Brazilian Guild", a group of jewellery designers famous inthe international market, and the group "Jóias da Cor do Brasil" which also promote Brazilian jewellery internationally.

fashioning fabrics by Elyssa da Cruz / http://www.marciaganem.com.br/ing/marcia/index.php

 

[gius]

Savithri Bartlett - detail of layers of laser-cut fabrics

Textile designer Savithri Bartlett hand-dyed and laser-cut 45 metres of fabric (opaque habotai silk and translucent resin-coated paper nylon) in seven colour ways for a collaborative garment made for the exhibition, Great Expectations in New York, October 2001 hosted by the Design Council UK. Collaborators were haute couture designer, Deborah Milner, and textile embellisher, Karen Spurgin.
Savithri Bartlett found that cutting a series of holes and lines in fabric and offsetting them by less than 30 degrees creates a moiré effect. Using 2 - 3 bright colours further confuses the eye.

Irene van Vliet- handwoven fabric


Luisa Cevese - square cushion

 

[gius]

Ryoko Yamanaka -

TOP Splashed Line 2003
bonded polyurethane stitched with electroluminescent fibres. This has dual function as an art piece and for design use. The light-emitting fibres contrast with the black bonded substrate -- like a splashed pattern they make tracks.

BOTTOM Strata 2, 2001
commissioned for the Miyuki Hospital in Yamagata prefecture. It is woven by hand using polyethylene foam tape and set in an acrylic resin frame box containing fluorescent lamps
Different primary colours are mixed and back-lit to create wonderful variations in deep colour, texture and light.

Nuno Corporation (Reiko Sudo) TOP
Schoeller Textil AG MIDDLE
Ann Richards BOTTOM


posts 3,4 scanned from technotextiles v.1 & v.2

 

[gius]

some more Liz Collins
http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/3393815-post1.html

[img=http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/7550/01779eeb8wi5.th.jpg] [img=http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/9305/0217bc415rh9.th.jpg]

from lizcollins.com

 

[gius]

Sophie Roet

from technotextiles v.1 & v.2

 

[gius]

now onto some processes...

MACRAME - knotting threads


example... Marni (the ivory + navy piece at the back)

Y's (Yohji Yamamoto) fw 03

firstview/brownsfashion/trieris

 

[MUXU]

awsome thread!

i think we should add some new fabrics to here. like prada, dries van noten type fabrics! and/or any other new materials!

 

[gius]

muxu before you leave for london, you should sneak into Holt&Renfrew and shoot some!

Relief Fabrics...
from Miu Miu f/w 06

net-a-porter/style
It looks like a print to me in the closeup, but Pastry says it's jacquard (a woven fabric)

Here are two by British textile designer, Nigel Atkinson

technotextiles v1. & v2.

 

[gius]

some more...

Comme des garcons f/w 96
thanks to mulletproof, firstview


Synthetic fabrics can be altered through heat
so one way to create these textures is through moulding and then steaming, etc.

Nuno Corporation
this company has worked a lot with Japanese fashion designers.. CDG, Issey Miyake, to name a few


Anke Hennig

technotextiles v.1 & v.2

 

[gius]

some random fabrics from the same book...


The third image...

by Barbara Layne - light-emitting diodes (LEDs) embedded in handwoven linen.

The LEDs woven into the textile present changing patterns and are programmable with interactive capabilities and can be controlled through sensors. Barbara Layne draws parallels between circuitry and the warp and weft of weaving, as x and y coordinates. She is mainly interested in them being used in creative arts practice, and while she recognizes their commercial potential, sportswear and medical use, for example, she envisages them as interactive costumes for dance, theatre, and expressive gallery textiles.

and finally, some more Luisa Cevese
http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/3393880-post3.html

 

[SomethingElse]

Inspired by and named after a bark cloth traditionally made in central Mexico - this fabric looks like a crumpled, muddy leather.

Nuno literally translated from the Japanese means 'functional textile'. Reiko Sudo, artistic director of the company, makes the ordinary extraordinary by creating a melting pot of borrowed technologies, traditional hand techniques and innovative finishing processes.

Fabrics are dissolved, burned, boiled, ripped, scrubbed - aggressive processes resulting in fine fabrics.

Image below: Nuno fabric 'Amate', rayon, polyester and paper.

vam.ac.uk

 

[SomethingElse]

More Nuno fabrics...

1. Bamboo Hexagonal Pattern, Rayon 45%, Silk 38%, Nylon 10%, Polyurethan 7%.
2. 100% Polyester.
3. Another Amate design: Base: Polyester 100% Ground: Rayon 100%

fiberscene.com

 

[SomethingElse]

Born in 1952, Tetsuo Fujimoto initially trained and practiced as a weaver for many years before eventually feeling a need to escape the restrictions of the vertical and horizontal warp and weft. Experimenting with freer forms of expression, he settled on a method that is closer to the act of drawing, though it involves the use of a sewing machine.

Indeed, Fujimoto now describes his work as ‘machine drawings’. Created through a painstaking process, their completion often takes several months. The cloth is first subdivided with stitches before the sewing machine is used to ‘draw’ upon it. Stitches upon stitches are densely layered to build up a zig-zag of stitches over cloth, firstly to cover the base cloth and then to develop an extraordinary surface which ultimately becomes three dimensional.

Below: Hemp cloth, silk thread, sheer backing (Pellon), natural plant dyes, zig zag sewing with a machine, dyeing.

culturebase.net . image: fiberscene.com

 

[SomethingElse]

The art of felt! These are by Mary-Ann Williams.

illu-stration.de

 

[Fashion Puss]

More Nuno fabrics...

1. Bamboo Hexagonal Pattern, Rayon 45%, Silk 38%, Nylon 10%, Polyurethan 7%.
2. 100% Polyester.
3. Another Amate design: Base: Polyester 100% Ground: Rayon 100%

fiberscene.com

I would be really interested to know which kind of Rayon was used. Probably viscose, but its nice to see a rayon that isn't viscose for a change!

 

[MulletProof]

brilliant thread, gius.. I was actually expecting something like this from you for a long time, now.. good call.
I love the pics with the Hannah Hazell & Nicola Lagan textiles especially..

 

[softgrey]

i love macrame...*sigh*...
part of my addiction to 70's chic...

i was rooting for liz collins when she first started her company...
but in the end...i think she was more of an artist than anything else...
nice that she found a gig teaching at her old school...

 

[gius]

glad you guys like the thread.. i get a feeling some of the fabrics are too artsy to function too, softgrey. i'll try looking for some actually being used (though nigel atkinson on the 1st page uses his relief fabrics for chair covers and that)

from Winchester School of Art
2001 graduates

Sarah Hickling - print


Louise Rolt - knit


Natalie Ratledge - knit


Christina Poxon - knit


Jessica Prickett - weave


wsa.soton.ac.uk

 

[gius]

Zoe Acketts

Lindsay Step

Camilla Metcalfe

Flora Waycott

wsa.soton.ac.uk /