Alessandro Dell’Acqua to Replace Schiaparelli-Bound Marco Zanini at Rochas

[GivenchyHomme]

We’ve loved just about everything Marco Zanini has done at French fashion house Rochas, including the shimmering collection he showed in Paris yesterday, which it turns out was his swan song for the brand.

As was rumored, the house has confirmed that Zanini has left Rochas to take the helm at Schiaparelli, and that No.21 designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua will replace him. Suzy Menkes reported that the news was announced at the end of yesterday’s Rochas show:

As the Rochas show came to an end in a cloud of glitter and puff, the replacement for the designer Marco Zanini, who is moving to Schiaparelli, was announced.
Rochas confirmed that Alessandro dell’Acqua, the veteran Italian designer with a particular skill in knitting and a fine sense of the female form, will be taking over at Rochas next season.
Dell’Acqua confirmed last week that he would not be renewing his role at Les Copains, but will presumably continue designing No.21, which shows in Milan.

All in all, its pretty great news. We like what Dell’Acqua does at No.21 and are excited to see how he interprets Rochas with his own aesthetic. We’re also excited for Schiaparelli to finally, officially have a designer, and could see Zanini doing some really beautiful things there.

We wonder what other designer comings and goings will be announced this week. Clearly, it’s that time of the year.

fashionista

 

[5 8 6]

Great news! I've always loved Dell'Acqua collections, let's hope that his new position at Rochas will finally give him the worldwide credit he deserved.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I seriously couldn't care less about Rochas ever since Procter & Gamble closed down what was formerly a real Maison as it was opperated in a traditional couture manner in Paris by Olivier Theyskens - Now it's nothing but a brand name licensed out to an Italian garment manufacturer. Marco Zanini is without doubt a veteran designer and I liked him at Halston, but he designed dowdy, forgettable clothes at Rochas that lacked a clear identity of it's own. I don't think that will change much with Alessandro Dell'Acqua taking over as designer.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

Ah! After the fainting spell I had about the Loewe news, this news is one great bottle of smelling salts.
It's disappointing for Schiaparelli, seeing as Schiaparelli was a cutting-edge surrealist designer and Marco Zanini only designs very pretty, very wearable, very safe designs, but that is what they'll want to kick-start a new Schiaparelli ready-to-wear line.
..His C.V. must read like a dictionary of heritage houses

But such good news about Dell'Acqua! He's one of my favourites.

 

[Koibito]

I'm confused. He moves to Schiaparelli so what happened with Lacroix?

 

[Scott]

^lacroix's tenure was limited edition in HC....basically a curatorship that will revolve each season.

dell'acqua though...at first reaction you wouldn't think his sexy and leaner aesthete would work with well the level of richness and drama that rochas is about but who knows anymore....these houses are getting so confusing it doesn't even matter anymore.

 

[jeanclaude]

I think Marilyn Manson should rename his famous song "Disposable teens" to "Disposable designers"...

 

[Marc10]

Alessandro Dell’Acqua Looks to the Future

Alessandro Dell’Acqua isn’t one to wax nostalgic. “For me, designing is all about a new story and a modern attitude,” the designer said before a cocktail party in honor of his ready-to-wear label, No. 21, at the New York residence of Valentina Castellani on Friday night. The soiree celebrated a new push for brand, which, founded in 2010, gained financial backing from Gilmar in 2012. And the evolution of his label is evidence that Dell’Acqua’s forward-looking philosophy applies not only to his clothes, but to his life, too. Fall ’14 will bring plenty of new adventures for Dell’Acqua, now 50. He’s launching menswear under the No.21 moniker, as well as presenting his first collection for heritage French house Rochas, where he was appointed as creative director in October after Marco Zanini announced that he was leaving to head up Schiaparelli. “I’m not a young designer, so when they called, I said, are you sure?” Dell’Acqua laughed, noting that other storied houses, (like Balenciaga and Loewe) have opted for younger creative directors (like Alexander Wang and Jonathan Anderson, respectively). Sometimes, however, it helps to have a talent who knows the ropes.

Indeed, Dell’Acqua is no up-and-comer. In 1996, before stints at Malo and Les Copains, the designer launched his successful, hyper-feminine namesake line, known for its whimsical yet seductive allure and lingerie accents. Two years later, he started an eponymous menswear range. But his story is all too familiar—Dell’Acqua lost the rights to his name after a dispute with his parent company, Cherry Grove (who also owned Malo), in 2009. He made a comeback a year later with No. 21—a ready-to-wear label named for his birthday (December 21), and his lucky number. “It’s about real women,” he told Style.com during that first show in 2010. Now, three years later, the brand, which is carried in stores like Selfridges and Matches, independent boutiques, and at such e-tailers as Net-a-porter and Moda Operandi, delivers just that—smart staples (think: embellished separates, slick blazers, and crisp overcoats) that cater to real world women with a penchant for luxury. “No. 21 was born out of a horrible moment for me,” recalled Dell’Acqua. “I wanted to do a little line that was completely different, but still had my DNA.”

Today, Dell’Acqua churns out four collections a year under his label—and that’s not including the forthcoming men’s range. “I didn’t really want to do menswear,” he admitted. “But the customers kept asking me, and men were buying the jumpers, bomber jackets, and knitwear that I was making for the women.” The range, he confirmed, will boast his signature masculine, feminine mash-up. He’s even planning on including a navy jacket made from bonded lace—a staple in his womenswear outings.

Fall ’14 will be busy for Dell’Acqua, what with his inaugural collection for Rochas and the new menswear lineup. He was tight lipped about what we’ll see in the the Rochas debut, but was very clear about what he won’t be showing. “I don’t want to do archive Rochas,” he said. “Reality is important in this moment of fashion. I don’t like repetition. Something from the fifties or sixties is OK to [incorporate] in the details, but I like the new contemporary. Women don’t want to look like they’re in another time.” As for the added workload, Dell’Acqua isn’t concerned. “I don’t have a life [outside of designing] right now, but I’m very mentally organized,” he said, smiling. But that doesn’t mean he’s free of first season jitters. “I’m very excited, but very nervous,” he admitted. “Rochas is a big opportunity for me. It’s like I’m starting all over again.”

style

 

[vetements]

Nice article, thanks Marc!