Alessandro Michele - Designer, Creative Director of Valentino

[jeanclaude]

At the end no matter how many times they change creative directors...everything is going to look the same.

 

[Kimihiro]

I’m really hoping he goes to Fendi. To bring fun back. It’s drab there nowadays. We need whimsical. What makes me skeptical is that KJ is also rumored to COLLAB with Pilati for a Fendi capsule. All rumors so we’ll see which of them comes true.

I don’t know why would they bring KJ to Givenchy when we now know his womenswear skills, even with his commercial knack doesn’t sell. Givenchy couldn’t afford another flop. Those, and should he really handle two menswear brands? It’s quite sad for him as before the Fendi tenure everyone assumed he’ll get Dior womenswear in due time.

 

[DK92]

My source said that AM actually met with Delfina, but KJ is already working on the next Fendi collection and everything will depend on how sales go... AM, despite not being at Gucci, still has contract with Kering, so until now he won't go to any brand!

PS: If KJ leaves Fendi he will either just focus on menswear or just stay at Dior.

 

[tourbillions]

i dont get the KJ hype and how he is in 2 major brands.... Anyway hope AM had enough time to think about the direction of his woman.

 

[bc collector]

Time for gossip, guys.

A little update on Michele's discussions with LVMH - it's rumours, but I trust the source, so...
Apparently the talks stalled a while ago because Michele is insisting on some very specific conditions for his eventual commitment with Fendi: allegedly, he is adamant in NOT wanting a standard contract, with all that this entails (ie: exclusive agreement and such...in short, he wants to keep his hands free). Plus, he'd rather be hired as a consultant than as an actual employee (again, with all that this entails, like endlessly wiggling your tail to the Suits and putting up with their demands).
Bernard said no.
Apparently earlier this year he was also in talks with Bulgari, for a possible collaboration in High jewellery (who knew?).

I find it interesting at this point: Fendi needs him more that he needs Fendi, let's see how much he can push it and have it his own way.

 

[gallianostan]

Time for gossip, guys.

A little update on Michele's discussions with LVMH - it's rumours, but I trust the source, so...
Apparently the talks stalled a while ago because Michele is insisting on some very specific conditions for his eventual commitment with Fendi: allegedly, he is adamant in NOT wanting a standard contract, with all that this entails (ie: exclusive agreement and such...in short, he wants to keep his hands free). Plus, he'd rather be hired as a consultant than as an actual employee (again, with all that this entails, like endlessly wiggling your tail to the Suits and putting up with their demands).
Bernard said no.
Apparently earlier this year he was also in talks with Bulgari, for a possible collaboration in High jewellery (who knew?).

I find it interesting at this point: Fendi needs him more that he needs Fendi, let's see how much he can push it and have it his own way.

bernard arnault is a despicable little man lmao

 

[Lola701]

Time for gossip, guys.

A little update on Michele's discussions with LVMH - it's rumours, but I trust the source, so...
Apparently the talks stalled a while ago because Michele is insisting on some very specific conditions for his eventual commitment with Fendi: allegedly, he is adamant in NOT wanting a standard contract, with all that this entails (ie: exclusive agreement and such...in short, he wants to keep his hands free). Plus, he'd rather be hired as a consultant than as an actual employee (again, with all that this entails, like endlessly wiggling your tail to the Suits and putting up with their demands).
Bernard said no.
Apparently earlier this year he was also in talks with Bulgari, for a possible collaboration in High jewellery (who knew?).

I find it interesting at this point: Fendi needs him more that he needs Fendi, let's see how much he can push it and have it his own way.

The problem is that given his star power, Arnault will have some expectations because eventually, Vuitton, Dior and Celine will grow at a slower pace. So the next super champion are supposed to be Fendi and Givenchy.
Given that Gucci is going through it, Fendi can really came back in a strong way.

I can understand why he wants his terms as he was Kering’s employee for 20 years but you can’t have it all.

Even if Fendi needs him, I also wonder how his vision of fashion may evolve. Let’s be honest, his last shows were very costumey, there was a fatigue for his proposition in fashion and he never shifted.

Fendi is an interesting house and an incredible heritage to work with but can his vision evolve too. Beyond his aesthetic, can his formula work?

I was looking back at his work for Gucci. It went downhill when he started to do costumes and have props. His first few seasons however have aged quite well.

 

[Nimsay]

AM is a great example of not knowing whats occuring. He is tenured at Kering not at LVMH. LVMH does not owe him the same things Kering does. I feel bad that hes learning that the hard way.

If those rumors are right. It doesnt even seem like AM wants to work at Fendi. The role is for a CD - why would he be trying to edge in as a consultant. Non exclusive ? What in the world. AM better be glad Bernard is used to dealing with out of touch artistes

Why do we keep saying Fendi. I would definitely keep him away from the hallowed halls of fashion. He would be ideal at Moschino. I would do Marc at Fendi because we need hit bags.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I think AM needs to rest and distance himself from fashion a bit more longer

He does not have the right mindset currently which is understandable given how everything ended with Kering. LVMH and Kering treat their designers in two totally different ways and the terms he wants is from someone still deeply hurt by Kering.

He can have a very interesting and lucrative contract as employee. Fendi is an amazing house where he can have the fun and be surrounded by the right people.

 

[bc collector]

I can understand why he wants his terms as he was Kering’s employee for 20 years but you can’t have it all.

That's really the core of the issue really. I don't know if this is really about getting it all or just, as I hope it is, claiming the right to have more balanced life and work with more human rhythms (one reason why there are less women designers around, male supremacy has nothing to do with it).
Michele came to success quite late in his professional life, he's made so much money in so short a time that, I imagine, he can rest on his laurels for the rest of his days. Why would anyone in his sane mind, in his position, fret to be the next mouse on the treadmill?
This is what interests me in this story, really, more than Michele's creative value or whether he may actually be good for Fendi or not (personally, I would have been just fine with Silvia Venturini)...it's the possibility of a shift of power back in designers' hands, after decades when they have been ruthlessly exploited by ignorant and greedy CEO's.
It's about time designers start showing their middle finger (so to speak) to people who understand nothing of the creative process but can only conceive to be surrounded by yes-people who never challenge their egos.

 

[Drusilla_]

honestly, if his terms and conditions are about working conditions and work-life balance, I understand. The pace at which fashion goes now doesn't make for good stuff, and some of that certainly has to do with burnout.

 

[vogue28]

Thoughts on Alessandro Michele for Valentino?

 

[Kimihiro]

Surprising, with the Kering involvement.

I’d rather him at Fendi. Whimsy suits Fendi better, and there’s couture if he wants.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I love a designer on mission to make their former boss bites the dust. so I want him at Fendi and nowhere else.

 

[yslforever]

Surprising, with the Kering involvement.

I’d rather him at Fendi. Whimsy suits Fendi better, and there’s couture if he wants.

Not sure Kering has been 100% consulted, with both PPP departure and AM contract talks

 

[Lola701]

Yeah…No. We want Fun Furs! Alessandro for Fendi!

 

[tourbillions]

im really not sure about Michele. I was a big fan of his Gucci at the beginning then it kind of got very tiring and repetitive and he was there for only 7 years.

However I can say the quality and construction of his clothes could definitely be compared to the top brands, can't say the same with Ancora.

 

[Lola701]

I must say that this kind of reports can be a way for him to negotiate the clauses of his contract with LVMH…Like a biding contest.

He is a good designer when he is doing clothes. I hate when he doing costumes. That’s probably why the perspective of him doing Valentino Haute Couture doesn’t excites me. And I kind of feel like having Silvia and Delfina around can tame the super vintage nature of his work.

But he is also a very complete designer. He is good in menswear, womenswear and accessories. Valentino could totally benefit from that even if the involvement of Pinault in the business, that might end up as a total take-over can be a bit tricky.
At Fendi, the pressure is maybe less present and the atmosphere maybe more like a family.

It’s funny how the two most emblematic Roman houses are now the talk of the moment.

 

[Marc10]

I'm kinda surprised because with his resume I would think he has the opportunity to go to pretty much any of the top brands. Valentino is relatively smaller is the grand scheme of the industry, will probably offer less money than a Fendi or Dior. Maybe that's what he wants tho, somewhere where he'll have less corporate pressure, more creative freedom.

 

[Lola701]

I'm kinda surprised because with his resume I would think he has the opportunity to go to pretty much any one the top brands. Valentino is relatively smaller is the grand scheme of the industry, will probably offer less money than a Fendi or Dior. Maybe that's what he wants tho, somewhere where he'll have less corporate pressure, more creative freedom.

At that level designers are looking either for a challenge or comfort.
He has been part of Gucci for 20 years and has seen in transform into a big corporation. He is someone who knows all the politics around those kind of businesses.

What I’m actually surprised by is the fact that Valentino is in consideration. I actually think that there will be more corporate pressure at Valentino than Fendi.

The family type structure of Fendi is a protection. I think at LVMH, after all, most of the designers either chosen by Delphine or under Sydney wings are a bit « under protection ». There’s a mutual understanding. I don’t feel like at Valentino, a talent will be protected. The same can be said about all the brands at Kering except Saint Laurent.

Fendi became part of the 1 billion club in 2016. They had a steady growth, almost 15 years after being acquired by LVMH and they have never been that aggressive with the brand, even with Karl.

I think that ultimately with Michele, the pressure is quite creative though. While he has a distinctive aesthetic (and LVMH values the fact that each brand has a distinctive aesthetic), the general consensus in fashion today is that everything is a reaction to his style.

Valentino and Balmain are owned by the same people. And with the launch of a new fragrance, I wonder if Olivier’s position is not on the line either. The brand is doing good but they are obviously looking for more growth. I have the feeling that his position is kind of dependent on the success of the fragrance.