Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Flashbang]

Cerruti
In: Aldo Maria Camillo
http://www.vogue.it/en/uomo-vogue/latest-on-fashion/2012/10/aldo-maria-camillo-for-cerruti

 

[Flashbang]

Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti
Out: Alberta Ferretti
In: Natalia Ratabesi

(via vogue.co.uk)

NATALIE RATABESI is the new creative director of Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti - a move that sees the label's eponymous founder step down from the design helm for the first time.

"I felt that the time had come to give Philosophy a more independent and autonomous vision, allowing me to dedicate myself entirely to the Alberta Ferretti collection and other related projects," said Alberta Ferretti. "I am confident that Natalie, with her femininity and boundless energy, will best express the fundamental spirit of the Philosophy collection."

Central Saint Martins graduate Ratabesi worked at Christian Dior under John Galliano, as well as Oscar de la Renta, Valentino and Gucci, before joining Ralph Lauren as senior creative director. Her first collection for Ferretti's younger label will debut for autumn/winter 2013-14.

"It's an honour for me to accept this opportunity I was given," said Ratabesi. "I have always marvelled at Alberta Ferretti's enduring aesthetic, her clean and contemporary elegance, and it is my desire to project Philosophy's unique, timeless style and effortless femininity, which have always distinguished the brand, into the future."

 

[Flashbang]

Sonia Rykiel
Out: April Crichton
In: Geraldo da Conceicao

(via vogue.co.uk)

GERALDO DA CONCEICAO is the new Sonia Rykiel creative director. The designer, who is currently Louis Vuitton's womenswear design director, succeeds April Crichton who took the label's helm last September.
Canadian-born Conceicao will start his new role next month. His first collection for the brand will debut in February next year for autumn/winter 2013-14. Aside from his work at Louis Vuitton, he has also held similarly senior positions at Miu Miu and Yves Saint Laurent under leading names such as Tom Ford, Alber Elbaz and Stefano Pilati.
The label has decided not to show at Paris Fashion Week this season, instead opting for low-key presentations for buyers and press in its Paris showroom.
The past few months have marked a period of change for the much-loved French brand. In February this year, Fung Brands Ltd bought an 80 per cent stake in the company, with the founding family still holding the remaining 20 per cent.

 

[Psylocke]

Victorinox
In: Christopher Raeburn

source: http://www.wwd.com/menswear-news/de...named-artistic-director-at-victorinox-6560622

This is so random, I didn't even know Victorinox had a fashion line but I've been loving Christopher Raeburn's collections so this sounds interesting. A way for him to make money, I guess.

 

[thejarc]

They did 2 or 3 'special' collections together, him doing a few jackets for them. Seems like they liked him. I am excited for this.

 

[Psylocke]

^Thanks, I didn't know about the previous collaborations (can't read the wwd article because I'm not a subscriber) but I just had a look at them they're pretty cool! This should definitely be good.

 

[Marc10]

Trussardi
Out: Umit Benan
In: ?

Umit Benan Says Goodbye to Trussardi

According to Trussardi, the designer has finished his contractual two year agreement, with Benan's just-walked in Milan women's Fall 2013 collection being his last for the Italian house. The designer's most recent menswear effort, seen last month, offered a spot-on exploration of outerwear for next Fall that infused classic parka shapes with bold colors. Fear not for the guy, though, as Benan's namesake label is still going strong, pumping out sharp menswear that turns traditional codes of dressing ever so slightly on its ear.

gq.com

 

[Flashbang]

^ In: Gaia Trussardi

The label Trussardi has just declared the end of its partnership with designer Umit Benan and the new appointment of founder Dante Trussardi's grand-daughter to the post of creative director, for the men's and women's ready-to-wear collections.

The design house Trussardi announced this morning the promotion of Gaia Trussardi to the post of creative director for both the male and female ready-to-wear ranges. As the grand-daughter of the label's founder, Dante Trussardi, this young Italian designer had already been responsible for overseeing the brand's design work, supervising media relations and managing the creative department for its Tru Trussardi and Trussardi Jeans lines. It is a big step for the 33 year-old designer who will replace Turkish designer Umit Benan, at the head of the company's studio for the previous two years. She will present her first collection at men's Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2013 - 2014.

vogue.fr

 

[thejarc]

Trussardi is the kind of label that has their family members model for ad campaigns. at some point it almost seems stupid to have family members in every major position in a company this old.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Power Moves | In a Flurry of Tweets, Umit Benan Leaves Trussardi

MILAN, Italy — Yesterday, designer Umit Benan turned to Twitter announcing, ahead of his employer, his departure from Trussardi, the family-owned Italian luxury house he had worked for as creative director since 2011.

“I have just completed my internship at Trussardi,” tweeted Benan. “Remember the finale song at Trussardi women’s show ‘Road to Nowhere.’ No wonder why I love Talking Heads so much.”

The news was not completely unexpected. Rumours of an imminent split circulated during last week’s shows in Milan, a fact that International Herald Tribune critic Suzy Menkes mentioned in her review of Benan’s last show for the label. The review was favourable, as were others, but over the two years of Benan’s tenure at Trussardi the response to his work for the house had been decidedly mixed.

In an official statement, Trussardi said the separation came at the natural expiration of his contract and was consensual, yet Benan’s tweets hinted at an underlying discontent on the designer’s part. Indeed, today the designer told BoF: “My goal was to bring back the Trussardi soul at the company that Nicola Trussardi had established and, in a short time, I believe I did that. I’m happy for that, but along the way we started to have different visions with the company, so I thought it was time to move on. I thank everyone working with me along the way. In the end, there were just too many visions in one company.”

Nonetheless, the Stuttgart-born designer remains positive regarding his prospects: “It’s the first time in my life I am not planning anything. I couldn’t be any happier. I will have more energy to focus on and have fun with my own line,” said Benan, referring to the menswear line he designs, and shows in Milan, under his own name.

“When the right thing comes up, and I believe in it, then I will once again be [ready] for another company.”

businessoffashion.com

 

[Marc10]

Trussardi is the kind of label that has their family members model for ad campaigns. at some point it almost seems stupid to have family members in every major position in a company this old.

But I guess that's the tradition of italian brands isn't it? Missoni, Cavalli, Versace... all controlled by the family.

 

[thejarc]

But I guess that's the tradition of italian brands isn't it? Missoni, Cavalli, Versace... all controlled by the family.

You're probably right. Missoni is very similar to Trussardi in that way. Etro too. However I feel like Cavalli and Versace are bigger companies and thus have a more "professional" (read: bigger) team of designers behind them which makes the outcome much more interesting (for the lack of a better word)

 

[kasper!]

Sergio Rossi
Out: Francesco Russo
In: ?

soure:WWD


What the hell is wrong with PPR?

 

[Pricciao]

after Alessandra Facchinetti moved to Tod's, is there any replacement for Uniqueness by Alessandra Facchinetti?

 

[Marc10]

Edun
Out: Sharon Wauchob
In: Danielle Sherman

Today, Edun—the label founded in 2005 by Bono and wife, Ali Hewson, with the intention of boosting trade and clothing manufacturing in Africa—has appointed a new creative director. Danielle Sherman—formerly the design director of T by Alexander Wang and, before that, the design director of the Olsens’ The Row—will take the reins from Sharon Wauchob. Having designed Edun’s men’s and women’s collections for six seasons, Wauchob is stepping down in order to focus on her eponymous womenswear range in Paris. WWD reports that Sherman starts at her new post today.

style

 

[StoneSkipper]

^This is going to be interesting. Sharon's latest collections haven't been very appealing to me, so I'm excited to see what Danielle has in store.

 

[Marc10]

Mugler
Out: Nicola Formichetti
In: ?

PARIS — Thierry Mugler is parting ways with Nicola Formichetti, the super-stylist called in two years ago to rev up its inchoate fashion business, WWD has learned.

wwd.com

If anyone with subscription would like to post the full article

 

[christian zh]

^ Finally.

 

[lucy92]

inchoate means disordered or disaster - i guess business was really bad.

 

[GERGIN]

I second that lol.