Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

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I've seen some pics of his eponymous collections (yes, he has had his own label since 2021, kind of body-con dresses and separates, with the oversize pieces de rigueur these days, cute but not particularly impressive...I struggle to see the link to Rochas, in any of the recent incarnations (to me, it stands for a decadent, romantic vision of femininity, Theyskens pinned it down for the ages). It would be interesting to know what the selection process was like, what the rationale was behind the choice, I just hope it was not only based on looks (although it kind of reeks of management fumbling in the dark at this point).
I find it interesting that he started out as a dancer, only turning to fashion later in his professional life. I can only think of Thierry Mugler as a precedent and I hope that bodes well for him.
 
Not really that odd, she's done work with them in 2021 for some bespoke accessories and a fragrance. She must have been on retainer for a while now seeing as they made this decision only now.

Plus, her label caters to a notably royal and aristocratic clientele for the custom pieces which again may work in their favour, and may earn her some new buyers too being under LVMH.
 
It’s still the randomest decission ever. Even Lindsey for Ungaro made more sense. I even forgot her brand existed. It’s the definition of irrelevant.
 
Im not sure because YOU forgot her brand existed doesnt mean she irrelevant....Also as stated above she done two bag collaborations and a perfume with them....Random kind insinuates zero previous connection hah. 🤷‍♀️
 
I don't know if it would be sustainable in the long run, but it'd be nice to relaunch a heritage label like Rochas - a name that has resonance in the history of modern fashion - in a small and intimate way. Maybe a boutique line focusing on high quality, luxurious separates for a specific customer demographic. It would be the antithesis of current luxury brand-building, but it might just click with customers. Unfortunately, I think Marco Zanini tried that (in a very very small way) and failed, but he probably didn't have any backers.
 
I think Katrantzou is a fabulous idea for Bulgari. Her sensibility for colors can match really well with the house.
I was thinking about Bulgari a lot weirdly because of what Giovanna Battaglia is doing at Swarovski.
I thought about her being the kind of Victoire de Castellane of Bulgari.
This appointment at least shows a desire to push the brand more after years of concentrating on Tiffany. They clearly taking one step ahead of Cartier.

Kennnnn said:
I don't know if it would be sustainable in the long run, but it'd be nice to relaunch a heritage label like Rochas - a name that has resonance in the history of modern fashion - in a small and intimate way. Maybe a boutique line focusing on high quality, luxurious separates for a specific customer demographic. It would be the antithesis of current luxury brand-building, but it might just click with customers. Unfortunately, I think Marco Zanini tried that (in a very very small way) and failed, but he probably didn't have any backers.
Click to expand...
Mouais ( as we would say in France). Rochas is own by Interparfums. To know a little bit about Philippe Benacin, I don’t think he particularly cares about fashion enough to have a kind of strategy required to push the brand.
They makes so much money though their licensed perfumes that the only brand they totally control seems like an afterthought.

The House needs some kind of very pragmatic, chic and fun clothes on a contemporary price point but with a strong creative talent/voice and a very selective distribution.

They can’t do luxury. Their fragrances don’t even sell for 100€.

I can see someone like Gabrielle Greiss or from that school of design.
I think about something somewhere like a MiuMiu, Sonia Rykiel or See by Chloe. I think what Guillaume Henry is doing for Patou could have worked for Rochas.

That’s the only way, they would make their fashion relevant. I don’t even think they make 50M a year with Rochas. So, they can’t really spend marketing money on fashion. It has to be a viable commercial force that will lift the perfumes.

They tried with Charles de Villemorin but unfortunately, he didn’t worked for the service of the brand. He only created runway moments (that we don’t remember anyway).
 
Lola701 said:
I think Katrantzou is a fabulous idea for Bulgari. Her sensibility for colors can match really well with the house.
I was thinking about Bulgari a lot weirdly because of what Giovanna Battaglia is doing at Swarovski.
I thought about her being the kind of Victoire de Castellane of Bulgari.
This appointment at least shows a desire to push the brand more after years of concentrating on Tiffany. They clearly taking one step ahead of Cartier.


Mouais ( as we would say in France). Rochas is own by Interparfums. To know a little bit about Philippe Benacin, I don’t think he particularly cares about fashion enough to have a kind of strategy required to push the brand.
They makes so much money though their licensed perfumes that the only brand they totally control seems like an afterthought.

The House needs some kind of very pragmatic, chic and fun clothes on a contemporary price point but with a strong creative talent/voice and a very selective distribution.

They can’t do luxury. Their fragrances don’t even sell for 100€.

I can see someone like Gabrielle Greiss or from that school of design.
I think about something somewhere like a MiuMiu, Sonia Rykiel or See by Chloe. I think what Guillaume Henry is doing for Patou could have worked for Rochas.

That’s the only way, they would make their fashion relevant. I don’t even think they make 50M a year with Rochas. So, they can’t really spend marketing money on fashion. It has to be a viable commercial force that will lift the perfumes.

They tried with Charles de Villemorin but unfortunately, he didn’t worked for the service of the brand. He only created runway moments (that we don’t remember anyway).
Click to expand...
There is still that cute Rochas shop on rue de Grenelle, I used to buy menswear there for a while (before the Villemorin crash), and it was indeed like a nice MiuMiu.
It's true that Interparfums doesn't care about fashion at all, but they are on the verge of loosing all their Richemont licences (Montblanc alone is something like 30% of their revenues) so they better hurry up if they want to promote their other brands...
I'd love a Rochas like a Parisian MiuMiu, there is some space for that, some fashion to wear everyday in Paris but not high-fashion competing for the 0,1% of the luxury buyers. Right now Carven and Patou are too small, Rykiel is done, Lanvin too, Marant is Marant ... we see a lot of Jacquemus, Courrèges, and Ami, so there is definitely a market for a well-thought Rochas.
 
misstweed.com

Fashion Merry-Go-Round Series: 2-Hedi Slimane prepares to leave Celine

Hedi Slimane, Celine’s star designer, is getting ready to part ways with the storied French brand.
misstweed.com misstweed.com

Hedi Slimane, Celine’s star designer, is getting ready to part ways with the storied French brand, several sources close to the label and its parent LVMH say. It’s the talk of le tout Paris in fashion. The timing of his exit is unknown. It could be tomorrow, or it could take a year or more, depending on how quickly LVMH finds a replacement or whether the Arnaults get angry enough to kick him out from one day to the next, the sources say.......
 
PDFSD said:
misstweed.com

Fashion Merry-Go-Round Series: 2-Hedi Slimane prepares to leave Celine

Hedi Slimane, Celine’s star designer, is getting ready to part ways with the storied French brand.
misstweed.com misstweed.com

Hedi Slimane, Celine’s star designer, is getting ready to part ways with the storied French brand, several sources close to the label and its parent LVMH say. It’s the talk of le tout Paris in fashion. The timing of his exit is unknown. It could be tomorrow, or it could take a year or more, depending on how quickly LVMH finds a replacement or whether the Arnaults get angry enough to kick him out from one day to the next, the sources say.......
Click to expand...
Has Astrid Wendlandt ever been wrong ? IDK nor follow her, she claims to have industry sources...
 
The lack of consistent shows lately (still no Men’s FW24) has been questionable but there’s been so much work put into the brand and imaging that I’m doubtful. Hedi has complete and total control afaik and sales have been booming, would could possible be going wrong?
 
If he’s going maybe it’s because he feels like he’s done everything he should. I guess you hire Hedi to ramp up a brand. Whoever replaces him has a good foundation to make Celine bigger. The brand is so much stronger now.

The terror it will cause this forum if he leaves for Chanel.

Edit: they’re actually teasing Chanel. 💀
 
Astrid Wendlandt is just re-circulating a recent rumour that celine models even know about. Sorry but nothing about this article is concrete.
 
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