Harris Reed - Designer, Creative Director of Nina Ricci

[Snejana Onopka]

they got too much power

somebody confiscate their charlotte tilbury concealer and anastasia modern renaissance palette NOW

 

[LadyJunon]

The normalisation of gay culture has really been a double edged sword. While, it helps with deconstructing homophobic perceptions and narratives, it smoothes out the culture to appeal to a wider, more general audience.

Take John Galliano for example. His work often pulled from queer subcultures, but at the time it was more niche and obscure. Add an admiration for the Japanese and a fixation on Vionnet to that and his vision feels extremely new.

It would be very hard for a designer with a vision like Galliano to exist today. Drag culture has become a part of pop culture, therefore the references become immediately recognisable, losing its innovative element.

 

[The Byronic Boy]

Who would you guys say does fashion inspired by gay sensibilities right between the new designers?

 

[gallianostan]

Who would you guys say does fashion inspired by gay sensibilities right between the new designers?

well, is the fashion good or bad? that's the million dollar question. i'd say virtually all of the new designers (harris, daniel, thom, robert wun, etc.), who are gay and design with a very gay sensibility, are pretty terrible. i find it very difficult to be excited by new designers in 2024. they're all inept.

 

[Snejana Onopka]

Who would you guys say does fashion inspired by gay sensibilities right between the new designers?

in the same vein lee did it with leigh bowery, galliano with 90s clubkids or even miuccia and jeremy scott with john waters for a specific collection, i believe no one does it anymore... raul lopez from luar tries to imbue some of nyc's underground lgbt aesthetic in his work, but its never fully fledged despide how well made his clothes are

 

[gallianostan]

Take John Galliano for example. His work often pulled from queer subcultures, but at the time it was more niche and obscure. Add an admiration for the Japanese and a fixation on Vionnet to that and his vision feels extremely new.

i always felt galliano pulled far more from history and art. his work never felt especially queer to me, just extremely feminine. perhaps it was slightly more queer in his new romantics/bowery/blitz kids days, but it was always steeped in a romantic sense of historicism rather than an overtly "queer" expression.

 

[Snejana Onopka]

harris, daniel, thom, robert wun

their output always fells so dragy in the worst way possible very pasteurized in a logotv kind of way, almost ahistorical and devoid of any socialcultural value, its all so surface level w/o the historical knowledge, technical excellence, vision and poetry we see in galliano's and lee's work

 

[gallianostan]

their output always fells so dragy in the worst way possible very pasteurized in a logotv kind of way, almost ahistorical and devoid of any socialcultural value, its all so surface level w/o the historical knowledge, technical excellence, vision and poetry we see in galliano's and lee's work

exactly. 100%.

 

[blueorchid]

what happened to the fabulous gays, gays used to be so fabulous

AIDS happened. I can’t remember which sociologist/philosopher argued that there’s a huge gap in the culture due to AIDS crisis, think of all the gay geniuses that died… and how that knowledge wasn’t passed on as it was previously amongst the community. Think of all the gay men that were total tastemakers.

 

[jeanclaude]

The main difference between gay designers from Galliano generation, and nowadays generation, is GRINDR!! How the hell are you going to focus on creating something special, when you are looking all the time at your cell to see if "Masculine, discreet" wants to blow you right now??

 

[Snejana Onopka]

AIDS happened. I can’t remember which sociologist/philosopher argued that there’s a huge gap in the culture due to AIDS crisis, think of all the gay geniuses that died… and how that knowledge wasn’t passed on as it was previously amongst the community. Think of all the gay men that were total tastemakers.

true... thats one of the contributing factors, not only we lost a lot of gay geniuses and valueable knowledge after the AIDS crisis there was also an immense moral panic regarding the body and sex that totally shifted the way ppl dress especially men, straight men in particular became much more conservative and cautious in the way they dressed, fearing theyd be perceived as gay (theres an study on this but I cant remember the name lol). but harris' is just an accute case of a very spoiled and privileged individual w/o any credentials being afforded an amazing job they're not fit for.

 

[blueorchid]

but harris' is just an accute case of a very spoiled and privileged individual w/o any credentials being afforded an amazing job they're not fit for.

Oh, lol, of course... a 10 year old with a stack of Vogue On [Designer] books would be more competent than Harris Reed.

 

[Nimsay]

Hey, now. People with brains need stuff to wear, too.

What are you saying here.

 

[passionfourfashion]

I hate to be so cynical but it feels like all of this recent gender-fluid non-binary emphasis in fashion is to mold the male consumer into the ideal portrait of hyperconsumption. Male fashion is typically quite staid and conservative compared to women’s so think of the novel offerings and expansions in selection but as McQueen said, men don’t want to be dictated to so we’ll see…On another note, I think this also parallels interest in trans models/‘culture’ as the new bleeding edge since ‘gay culture’ is no longer (as) transgressive.

 

[gallianostan]

I think this also parallels interest in trans models/‘culture’ as the new bleeding edge since ‘gay culture’ is no longer (as) transgressive.

another phenomenon which has completely killed fashion

 

[Nimsay]

Right LVMH has been giving out free mens purses for a decade to shape mens tastes. Now even the most “hyper masculine” man has a LV pochette.

 

[Nimsay]

AIDS happened. I can’t remember which sociologist/philosopher argued that there’s a huge gap in the culture due to AIDS crisis, think of all the gay geniuses that died… and how that knowledge wasn’t passed on as it was previously amongst the community. Think of all the gay men that were total tastemakers.

Uh yea but not all.

I came up in NYC and was shaped by gay men who lives through AIDs. Jewelers, Businessmen, Artists, VPs of Retail…. I remember looking at my artist friends painting that was returned to him after his friend died of AIDs. His friend said he was comforted greatly by the artwork. Ill never forget it.

Like the man who shaped my attitude rhe most was a Jeweler and died at 87 with a 500k Rainbow Audemars Piguet on. He shaped so many aspects of my personality I mean my religion literally is the one Jewelers practice. All my superstitions come from him and a Princess that I know (real Princess)

ultimately what he taught me the most was survival at all costs. The reason AIDs passed him by is because he was too much of a snobby jerk to have casual sex with anyone. Just like me - he wouldnt even speak to someone who didnt have money, power or connections. This attitude has always paid off for me. What gay man under 50 has been married more than one time to rich men? Like my lifestyle is unheard of for gay men. Most gay men with money have personalirt disorders and are in miserable relationships with men they hate. Cant be me! I attribute it to my gay fathers who shaped me into a graceful survivor.

Thats because someone with nothing has no problem ruining your life too. He taught me that.

this whole drag queen energy is wonderful bc its like a red flag of who to avoid. Remember im not talking to anyone who doesnt have money power or connections.

I could literallY write a book on homosexual men. Mostly im embarassed by my people who have no self respect.

 

[KoV]

 

[gallianostan]

 

[Vitamine W]

Uh yea but not all.

I came up in NYC and was shaped by gay men who lives through AIDs. Jewelers, Businessmen, Artists, VPs of Retail…. I remember looking at my artist friends painting that was returned to him after his friend died of AIDs. His friend said he was comforted greatly by the artwork. Ill never forget it.

Like the man who shaped my attitude rhe most was a Jeweler and died at 87 with a 500k Rainbow Audemars Piguet on. He shaped so many aspects of my personality I mean my religion literally is the one Jewelers practice. All my superstitions come from him and a Princess that I know (real Princess)

ultimately what he taught me the most was survival at all costs. The reason AIDs passed him by is because he was too much of a snobby jerk to have casual sex with anyone. Just like me - he wouldnt even speak to someone who didnt have money, power or connections. This attitude has always paid off for me. What gay man under 50 has been married more than one time to rich men? Like my lifestyle is unheard of for gay men. Most gay men with money have personalirt disorders and are in miserable relationships with men they hate. Cant be me! I attribute it to my gay fathers who shaped me into a graceful survivor.

Thats because someone with nothing has no problem ruining your life too. He taught me that.

this whole drag queen energy is wonderful bc its like a red flag of who to avoid. Remember im not talking to anyone who doesnt have money power or connections.

I could literallY write a book on homosexual men. Mostly im embarassed by my people who have no self respect.

I'd buy the book and read it,