John Galliano - Designer, Creative Director of Maison Margiela

i wonder if going somewhere like gucci would force him to return to the more experimental periods of his career, e.g. 2000-2003... the way he used to cut, particularly for the rtw shows, was so sharp and manic. the layering, contrasting fabrics, wild young silhouettes... it was so light and contemporary. i miss that side of him
 
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written in the independent yesterday. most interesting part is in bold:

The fact that Macdonald managed to recruit such a bevy of high-profile talking heads for his film – Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Charlize Theron all feature – is a testament to Galliano’s talent, and perhaps an indication of an industry eager for him to return. There is, after all, a major creative vacuum in fashion right now, one that Galliano once filled. In January, Matthew Williams stepped down from Givenchy, which, like Dior, is owned by LVMH; we have yet to find out who will be designing the fashion house’s spring 2025 collection, which will be shown in Paris in September. As The Times reported, Galliano is not currently down for his usual slot for Margiela at Paris Couture Week in June. “I personally would be delighted if he returned to Givenchy,” says Taylor. “Galliano would have the wonderful haute couture atelier to work with again, with the ability to turn his dreams into realities.”

It would also mark an industry first, given that, within the haute couture industry, houses seldom rehire their creative directors. “This would spell an interesting departure from the norm, and there is no doubt that Galliano’s advocates and detractors will be watching closely to see what newness he could bring to the label after his first tenure there,” says Caroline Alexander, senior lecturer in fashion at the Kingston School of Art.

Macdonald, however, remains sceptical of such a move, given that Galliano’s addictions were fed by the intensity of his work at Dior. “I think he’s trying to keep his life more lowkey,” he says. “He knows that his obsessive tendencies could lead him back to an unhealthy place. He likes being at Margiela because it’s on a smaller scale, and he gets artistic freedom.” That’s not to say that if a deal were on the table, he wouldn’t take it. “One thing I do know is that John would very much like to have his own label back, to have his name back.” Currently, the Galliano label belongs to LVMH. Until Macdonald’s documentary, in which it participated, the brand has stayed fairly silent on all things to do with the designer.

“I was surprised that they were as cooperative as they were,” says Macdonald. “But I think it’s very obvious they realise that the John era at Dior was the great era, and maybe they were so willing to talk to me and air their dirty laundry because they feel like it might be the best way to make him come back.”
 
Well, if he is going back to Givenchy, then I’m gonna need early the Dior vibes back:


the soundtrack for this show is electric. one weird but fun thing i love most about this is that him and lee used the exact same mix - nightmare (sinister strings mix) by brainbug - for the show intro in both of their debuts, in the same season. truly kindred spirits in more ways than one
 
Well, if he is going back to Givenchy, then I’m gonna need early the Dior vibes back:


love this era most early dior JG years where so chic and yet full of fantasy and restrained moments made it all cool and raw yet sharp love
 
Well, if he is going back to Givenchy, then I’m gonna need early the Dior vibes back:


Stunning collection.
Even if I love the FW2004 RTW, John is a it best when he does « real clothes ».

The more I read about the fact that The Met Gala was supposed to be about him, the more I’m convinced that he is not going anywhere and that Wintour tried to connect all the brands John worked for in order to sponsor the Exhibition.

Dior, Givenchy and Margiela would likely be sponsors for the exhibition.

Still even if MGC participated in reabiliting his legacy at Dior, I wonder if she has no ego at all to let the Ambassadors wear Galliano by Dior.
 
Well, if he is going back to Givenchy, then I’m gonna need early the Dior vibes back:


Bar the Diorient express (although it is a fun fan fare), up until the logo-mania/post Matrix collection this was peak Galliano for me. Even those Givenchy collections were gorgeous because the basis of them were "real" clothes. I LOVE his "Russian Constructivist" collection for Dior because the treatments and manipulations are gorgeous, and the variety was ripe with potential where removing the literal styling nods there were fabulous pieces.

As time has gone by, it is why I've grown to appreciate Alber, Ozbek, Gigli, early-early Commes and Watanabe, Toledo and the likes because of how real their clothes are/were. You just cut go wrong with something well cut, traditional but upset just enough in the right direction to really exemplify a true point of view that is also extremely grounded.

Now, I wonder where the full video for this show is... We got the McQueen Givenchy show, can we PLEASE get this one.
 
Now, I wonder where the full video for this show is... We got the McQueen Givenchy show, can we PLEASE get this one.
Where is the McQueen at Givenchy debut full video?? In youtube all I can find are edited short versions of it.
 

It is in black and white, so look up images to get an idea of the looks in colour (although it is mostly white and gold so it's easy to figure out).

this collection definitely feels like more of a clumsy misstep in retrospect. the angel wings, the horns, some of the really busy styling... i can see what critics meant about it being too costumey. but he managed to soar to new heights almost immediately after this. his givenchy definitely got better and better as time passed. that soundtrack though.... orgasmic
 
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Now, I wonder where the full video for this show is... We got the McQueen Givenchy show, can we PLEASE get this one.

The way we need a proper fashion streaming service (not thirsty YouTubers), where all these videos are available in HD with their original soundtrack. A good chunk of their streams would come from me.
 
^ And as always, a fantastic soundtrack! And the remixing of Nyman... swoon worthy. They don't do them like this anymore, even with Healy at Margiela. I do always go back and forth with the slew of bias cut dresses in some of these shows, thinking there's perhaps far too many. But that is also thanks to the amount of vintage resellers that just put these pieces on absolute blast to up sell them into the tens of thousands.

Favourite pieces are the suiting and Bar jackets. Galliano knew the importance of the Bar jacket and where and/or how to push it during this time.

When looking back at these collections now, it would be great if he took the sensibility he had to the RTW and transposed it to Margiela. It finally clicked as to why I'm not enjoying his Margiela, especially in recent years, is because of the avid mini-crini orientated Westwood-isms that are present. Not that I hate Westwood, but it's just too forced and I've always felt Westwood erred far too close - and if not exactly into - the realm of costume so things are too precious. And that's what his Margiela is now, cloyingly precious. Whereas here, there is a preciousness because it is Dior but becuase there is a clear distinction of its wearability you can see who or how it can be worn as a look and as a wardrobe piece.
 
It’s crazy how everybody is talking about him now. Anna is a genius. She has made people “hungry” for him.

As much I think he is over and that he can’t give us something relevant again, I’m happy for him. I always thought what happened to him was super unfair and undeserved.

Anyways, I doubt he will be back to LVMH. Although I wouldn’t care if they gave him Givenchy. Maybe they can find somebody strong for accessories. It might work, idk.

I feel there’s a need for romanticism and grandeur in fashion. Even for the younger generations… The Phoebe era is on its last legs.
 
pls go back to these wearable clothes, enough deconstruction of everythign. i wont even care if its not margiela, I hope after all the givenchy/dior archives in met gala, fashion moves back to these type of shows. im so tired of all these overly controlled shows with poor constructions.
 
the logomania era gets hate but the work he was doing in that period was some of the most feverishly modern and experimental he's ever done. cutting edge, razor sharp, and - probably for the only time in his career - totally and completely in sync with culture at the time.




S/S 2002 with the fabulous python trench coat on Stella Tennant and the first designer bag that I purchased 1 year later: the messenger saddle!
So great!
For me it was also an impressive moment of his career but also, he styling was insane. Something that is never talked about that era is how styled those pieces were! A masterclass.
It’s something that John did wonderfully here but didn’t really succeeded in doing for SS 2005.

I think it was a very great era because he was fearless, had total creative control over the whole womenswear at Dior, was experiencing great success but much more than that: UNDERSTOOD THE NEED TO PUSH FASHION FORWARD.

This notion we have today that commercial success should mean safe fashion is False. When you have your finger on the pulse, you move the needle and not the way around.


There’s something very sad about the conversation in fashion nowadays.
I was lucky to live the 2000’s, the 2010’s which were eras where we were excited about what was coming ahead. Nostalgia wasn’t part of our concern and this is something that I regret for the new generation.
 

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