The Most Underrated & Most Overrated Photographers

Overrated
I&V
M&M
Testino
Terry Richardson
Steven Klein

Underrated
Sophie Delaporte
Emma Summerton
Chad Pitman
Yelena Yemchuk
 
Overrated :
Juergen Teller, all the time.
I&V - I do like almost every work of them in VP but most of the campaigns they shot are just awful. Their style doesn't even match with the brand's concept. They should stick to Chloe and YSL.
 
I personally think that the following "bigger" names are quite underrated,

Sebastian Kim
Mark Segal
Mark Seliger
Willy Vanderperre (not by fans/TFS members but by major publications...why haven't some of the bigger magazines latched onto him?)
Nathaniel Goldberg
Michael Thompson (his older W work is amazing...it's a shame his Allure work is so bland and forgettable)
 
Underrated
Sol Sanchez
Carlotta Manaigo
Eric Guillemain

Overrated
I actually think that every photographer puts something beautiful on the table, but i sometimes ask myself what's that certain something in Rankin's work?
 
I just want to make a decipher before listing- my overrated/underrated lists both include photographers that I like and dislike.

Overreated:

Inez & Vinoodh to the 1000th power-way too gimmicky and edgy for my personal taste. They rely too much on their gimmicks and there is not enough thought in the conceptual, thus too edgy and not intellectual.

Annie Leibovitz- Way too one dimensional to be considered great, IMO.

Mario Testino- same as Leibovitz. I've seen countless amount of interviews with this guy talking so profoundly about photography, but i just don't see it come across in his work. Not to mention, he has a very tasteless style.

Nick Knight- I remember reading this one article about how his work questions standards of beauty and aesthetics, but it really doesn't not have that influence on me. He's done some of the most memorable covers and shot some iconic shots of top models, but I think it was based on good timing and luck.

Liz Collins- omg, for the love of god..BORING!!!

Craig McDean- Definitely a fan of his work, but he doesn't really have an it factor to set him aside from others. For me, he's the epitome of a very successful working photographer but not an artist and I think in this industry, you've gotta be both.

Greg Kadel- zzzzzzzzzzzz.

Camilla Akrans- Beautiful style, but it seems to me that she's in a rut and stop experimenting or maybe she's just being type casted. Anyway, her aesthetic is way too easy to replicate and it's become too much about romanticizing everything.

Steven Klein- simple as this: I just don't get him.

David Lachapelle (i'm with Mulletproof and MissAnia on this one)-tacky, to say the least!

Alexi Lubomirski- he is soooo sexy! but he needs to quite channeling all of his contemporaries. :doh: No wonder he's a regular for HB and Vogue Germany (who don't have an identity of their own).

Bruce Weber- don't kill me..but he's in there with Klein for me. :shock: I guess since his fashion shoots have a lighter, upbeat tone that he's generally favored. I do like a lot of his work, but overall I just don't get him.

Underrated: All of the after-mentioned show true range and ability to think outside of the box and do what isn't expected- they show adaptability and versatily, which is the most critical factor of being a photographer of any sort, if you ask me. They don't rely on gimmicks for 'style'; they're confident enough in what they're doing and it always shines through. Oddly enough, they aren't as everywhere as they should be.

Hedi Slimane
Josh Olins
Paolo Roversi
Emma Summerton
Laurie Bartley
David Armstrong
Alasdair McLellan
 
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Agreed about Greg Kadel, his work reminds me of the imagery of IMG's test photographers, and i guess some of them could do better than him if they had the budged, models, payment and equipment that Greg Kadel is being offered.... black and white effects don't make his pictures timeless. I think Imogen Morris Clarke takes better black/white shots with more significance of her model friends on the streets, and I am serious here - By Imogen via her twitter http://i50.tinypic.com/11wehcn.jpg
 
Patrick Demarchelier is overrated. His work is very boring and not even characteristic like Lindbergh's or Roversi's. It's very conventional and non-inovative.
I admit his past work was great though.
 
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overated: mario testino,KARL LAGERFELD (tackiest "photographer" of all the time),jolijn snijders

underrated:tim walker but is okay like that., hedi slimane.
 
Overrated:I&V

Underrated:Alessandro Dal Buoni,Camille Vivier,Karim Sadli,Carlotta Manaigo & Viviane Sassen
 
I don't know if I would label him under-rated, but a photographer who has piqued my interest recently is Hong Jang Hyun. Most of the stuff of his that I have come across appeared in the Korean editions of Vogue and W.
 
I think like fashion designers and models, there are more overrated fashion photographers than there are underrated ones.

Most Overrated: Juergen Teller
There's a great line by the character Benny (played by Benecio Del Toro) in Julian Schnabel's 1996 Basquiat, something along the lines of (paraphrasing:( "If you want to be famous, you keep on doing the same thing until people recognize it, and you keep doing it, even if it becomes boring..." I think Juergen Teller has taken that to heart, because his style of photography, even though highly recognizable, has been the same since the early 90s. And for that, he is the most overrated fashion photographer of all the overrated fashion photographers.

I did like Juergen's style, back in the 90s, but then I realized it wasn't so much his input I liked, but more Helmut Lang's designs, the models being cast, and Melanie Ward's styling that made the photograph memorable. The rawness and candid quality of his images, to be honest, could have been snapped by anyone, and would have looked just as good. Juergen was just at the right place, at the right time-- with the right people. He's been doing the samo, samo since then. And for that, Juergen Teller is the most overrated fashion photographer of them all.

Tackiest: David Lachapelle
Just because you have a signature style, doesn't mean you're good. David Lachapelle is that photographer. I can appreciate different styles of fashion photography, but I don't appreciate tacky. David is the Jeff Koons of fashion photography. His talent is in making everyone and everything he photographs, tacky. Tacky, trashy and flashy. And it's true that people who don't really follow fashion think of him as the premiere fashion photographer, because they think fashion is all about being tacky, trashy and flashy.

Most Underrated: No one
 
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I actually wouldn't call Juergen Teller overrated..though I'm not exactly a fan of his work, I appreciate his anti-academic approach to photography that has spurred a sub-genre in fashion photography. Suprisingly, je's very accomplished in that art world.
 
IMO the photographers who have the strongest visual style are the most successful ones. Teller's style obviously turns him on enough that he's able to find enough energy to keep going with it. His Go Sees series is one of my favorite fashion books. So sad & beautiful all at the same time. And I've always loved his collaborations with Venetia Scott.

To dismiss Teller by saying the photographs he makes could be snapped by anyone doesn't work. A photographer's style comes from within. You can't copy or recreate someone else's world because you aren't living in it. You'll always be outside of it. Part of finding your real self as an artist is knowing when you've found it.
 
^i agree MMA. i love juergen's knack for somewhat improvised scenarios and a simplistic and raw style. there's something fascinating about seeing things on the undercurrent without all of the overt surface and highgloss elements. and it's a style very kindred with the always quirky wolfgang tillmans,mark borthwick and anders edstrom. even a bit in serge leblon's work.

IMO....these dutch duos are highly underrated.
anuschka blommers & niels schumm

elle verhagen & carmen freudenthal
 
Overrated:
I never liked Steven Klein that much. Just... not my favorite.
Greg Kadel- his photos are nice, but I feel that it's mainly because of the model, styling/makeup/hair. Lighting and angles and overall vibe is average.
Also I hate it how different Patrick Demarchelier's pics can look; between his great fashion photos and his generic Hollywood stars photos. I just don't know how to describe it.

Underrated:
Besides the photographers MulletProof posted, would it be alright to say Paolo Roversi? He's kind of successful, but not as big as he should be-I always love his work.
 

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