Julien Dossena x Jean Paul Gaultier

[vogue28]

Paco Rabanne’s Julien Dossena announced as next designer for Jean Paul Gaultier couture:

 

[dodencebt]

Ooh I can't wait for this one! Julien's Paco Rabanne can be hit or miss, but imo he is a very good technical designer with great ideas.

 

[DK92]

That sounds exciting... I hope they live up to my high expectations!

 

[Benn98]

Hmm, I don't know. Isn't Julien Dossena's work too serious and intellectual for JPG?
I'm not sure he has the vocabulary to be theatrical but let's see.

 

[Mutterlein]

I really liked his last collection for Paco Rabanne. I look forward to seeing this one.

 

[Lola701]

Really good! I hope Pierre Hardy will do the shoes…
My fear is that it might look too much like Ghesquiere…

 

[FashionFanatico]

Julien seems like a really nice guy, but creative wise he peaked 5 years ago.
he seems in a rut at Paco Rabbanne for many seasons now.
Maybe it's a good chance to prove me wrong that he's more than nicolas copycat.

 

[VERNIQUE]

Another safe choice.

Why again a (gay) man who is influenced by the Parisian Orbit?
It's a bore.
Why not choose a woman again after his premiere with Chitose Abe?

Maybe Gaultier just loves to live in his very own Fashion Ghetto World....

 

[Lola701]

Another safe choice.

Why again a (gay) man who is influenced by the Parisian Orbit?
It's a bore.
Why not choose a woman again after his premiere with Chitose Abe?

Maybe Gaultier just loves to live in his very own Fashion Ghetto World....

I mean, he is choosing designers he is following the work. Women designers are in minority and I don’t see him giving the access of his atelier to a young designer…

‘When I think about the list of women designers who have a sensibility that can touch Gaultier…Unfortunately I don’t see many. Maybe Koche?

 

[LadyJunon]

Another safe choice.

Why again a (gay) man who is influenced by the Parisian Orbit?

It's a bore.

Why not choose a woman again after his premiere with Chitose Abe?

Maybe Gaultier just loves to live in his very own Fashion Ghetto World....

I think it's also that the larger share of female designers prefer to design wardrobes for real people than couture showpieces. The antithesis of Gaultier.

There's more and more exceptions today, but those designers haven't been working long enough to be handed a couture atelier.

As of now, I feel that the best candidate would be Sarah Burton, Iris van Herpen or the Rodarte sisters.

 

[Mutterlein]

Another safe choice.

Why again a (gay) man who is influenced by the Parisian Orbit?
It's a bore.
Why not choose a woman again after his premiere with Chitose Abe?

Maybe Gaultier just loves to live in his very own Fashion Ghetto World....

Like who?

 

[Mutterlein]

I think it's also that the larger share of female designers prefer to design wardrobes for real people than couture showpieces. The antithesis of Gaultier.

There's more and more exceptions today, but those designers haven't been working long enough to be handed a couture atelier.

As of now, I feel that the best candidate would be Sarah Burton, Iris van Herpen or the Rodarte sisters.

Rodarte?

Those girls barely know their way around a sewing machine let alone an atelier.

Personally I see zero value in having them, Iris, or Sarah reinterpret JPG.

If we're playing the game of looking for female designers, I would be more interested in someone like Natacha Ramsay.

 

[THD96]

One thing is for sure, JPG choices in designers are always on point. I'm so excited about this.

I would love to see Bouchra Jarrar take on the legacy of Gaultier, she is already proven to be a skilled couturier, but I don't know if she is still as involved with the current Paris fashion scene now.
My ultimate dream would be Phoebe Philo x JPG.

 

[Lola701]

I think it's also that the larger share of female designers prefer to design wardrobes for real people than couture showpieces. The antithesis of Gaultier.

There's more and more exceptions today, but those designers haven't been working long enough to be handed a couture atelier.

As of now, I feel that the best candidate would be Sarah Burton, Iris van Herpen or the Rodarte sisters.

Now @LadyJunon The Rodarte sisters? Come on now lol

Yes @Mutterlein for Natacha! She has that eclectic style that Gaultier might like and now that she is preaching for more sustainability, there’s nothing more sustainable than Couture!

Luckily, JPG will notice her. She is in Nicolas crowd and they are all in the same circle with Dossena/ Pierre Hardy and all.

 

[jeanclaude]

Phoebe Philo for Gaultier would be soo interesting.

 

[VERNIQUE]

Like who?

Rei Kawakubo !

 

[LadyJunon]

Rodarte?

Those girls barely know their way around a sewing machine let alone an atelier.

Personally I see zero value in having them, Iris, or Sarah reinterpret JPG

Now @LadyJunon The Rodarte sisters? Come on now lol

Give me a break, there was an attempt!

Anyway, it proves my point. Finding female designer who have Gaultier's showmanship streak is hard.

 

[Phuel]

Miuccia doing Gaultier HC would be dream.

Besides that era of fashion being so deeply-rooted in both brands’ DNA, both their take on 1950s-sensibilities are such a masterclass of modern irreverence and lessons in understated elegance that never verges on the caricature and the drag.

 

[VERNIQUE]

Give me a break, there was an attempt!

Anyway, it proves my point. Finding female designer who have Gaultier's showmanship streak is hard.

i am already bored of the can of worms i opened.

Why should a designer like Dossena have a better understanding of haute couture than for example Simone Rocha, Rei Kawakubo, Bouchra Jarra or Iris van Herpen? Donatella Versace? Consuelo Castiglioni? (that would be major!) or even the duo of Khaite (one of them is female).

what i wanted to say that's nowadays it's not only a question about it's gonna be a male or female designer who get's the job, it's the networking (call it fashion family) that works best.

it's just about the narrow creative field Gaultier chooses from. it makes sense, is safe and i understand that he loves to work with people he likes. But it's not a challenge.

For me Glenn, Haider & Julien are not so much different of the way they create, how they became fashion leaders, for what they are standing for and where they get their ideas from. Olivier was and is different. He has a much wider, experimental (sadly not always tasteful) approach than all four of them - and it showed in his collection for Gaultier a lot. And i loved it because it was so fearless and fresh.

 

[Mutterlein]

Rei Kawakubo !

How about someone realistic?

Also, if anybody should be doing an homage, he should be doing it to her and not the other way around.