Maison Margiela Haute Couture F/W 2015.16 Paris

[Fashion_Girl22]

stylebistro.com

 

[Fashion_Girl22]

stylebistro.com

 

[dodencebt]

This is truly beautiful. I'd be lying if I said I was fully content while looking at the initial photos, but after seeing HQs and back details, I am in love.

I guess the way the collection was presented is a little one-dimensional, I'd like a little more drama that we all know Galliano can bring.

 

[gossiping]

he is PAST IT

andpeople criticise raf at dior....

 

[MayYing]

the back details are breathtakinglove the blue rope dress

 

[CholoChic]

Sucha an exquisite way to wrap, cut, torn, burn, I dont know how much techniques here, but John is delicious and he is in love with Margiela I can see him like a child in a Mansion full of exciting fabrics and new techniques where he can apply his curiosity, mastery and passion to make garments that makes you heart beats so fast, how when you where a child and suddenly discovered something precious to dream. Thanks John this is so precious!.

 

[TaylorBinque]

What a marvellous collection! I can also feel the noble/peasant vibe from this. The lavender field is fabulous. What I love the most about his clothes are actually he understands how to construct and the proportion. Every single piece here looks perfectly fitted and in right proportion.

 

[Marc10]

There are indeed some nice pieces here, I guess. Unfortunately, it still fails to excite me as a whole because I simply despise how he's turning Margiela into such a bourgeois, Couture-y, prim and proper house. From silhouette to the overall presentation, it almost looked like an old Lacroix show. It's the complete antonym of what this house stands for and should look like. The deconstruct/reconstruct mantra is something very familiar in John's work, so I ask: what exactly is he absorbing from Margiela? It doesn't seem like he gets it (or worse, cares about it). His work here feels irrelevant, trapped in his usual dreamland with no communication to what's outside, and very contrived.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^I actually think quite the opposite! I think John's work feels much more relevant to the here and now than the previous designer for MMM. I always found Blazy's collections (especially the Artisinal line) too precious and literal to the MMM archive.

I think Galliano's sort of wreckless abandon style of creativity is more in line with what I believe to be truer to the original spirit of the house than Blazy's very fashion-conscious work. Sure, Galliano's work is more cartoony, but I think the house needed a shot of creativity more than it needed someone reverential to the house codes. Maybe that's why Martin, himself, gave Galliano his blessing?

I will say one thing - while the hair and makeup is gorgeous and so Galliano - I think it would be really gorgeous and even more modern looking if all the girls had natural hair and makeup as a contrast to the clothes. I love the way the male models look with their long, natural hair...the attitude of that styling is so right...would have loved to have seen the girls the same way.

 

[MayYing]

backstage pics.John and his dog.


the full look of the green outfit is unexpected

weibo/waswang

 

[Phuel]

^^I actually think quite the opposite! I think John's work feels much more relevant to the here and now than the previous designer for MMM. I always found Blazy's collections (especially the Artisinal line) too precious and literal to the MMM archive.

I think Galliano's sort of wreckless abandon style of creativity is more in line with what I believe to be truer to the original spirit of the house than Blazy's very fashion-conscious work. Sure, Galliano's work is more cartoony, but I think the house needed a shot of creativity more than it needed someone reverential to the house codes. Maybe that's why Martin, himself, gave Galliano his blessing?

I will say one thing - while the hair and makeup is gorgeous and so Galliano - I think it would be really gorgeous and even more modern looking if all the girls had natural hair and makeup as a contrast to the clothes. I love the way the male models look with their long, natural hair...the attitude of that styling is so right...would have loved to have seen the girls the same way.

Absolutely!

There's a sense of a distinct individuality given to each piece, each accessory, every individual model and their look, but it all comes together so well as a directional collection. And, it all feels like such a thoughtful progression of the MM aesthetic rather than continuing to desperately latch onto what Margiela would have done. This isn't Margiela the man himself anymore, so John can only continue the line, not attempt to trace over, or attempt to recreate the past. I appreciate that confidence of moving forward on John's part, all the while injecting his brand of decadent polish and dramatics without losing Margiela's thoughtful, artisanal touch. It all just feels genuine to me, both in terms of John's contribution as a designer and as a progression of Margiela's House.

 

[Urban Stylin]

the pop of colour is genius!

 

[Marc10]

Absolutely!

There's a sense of a distinct individuality given to each piece, each accessory, every individual model and their look, but it all comes together so well as a directional collection. And, it all feels like such a thoughtful progression of the MM aesthetic rather than continuing to desperately latch onto what Margiela would have done. This isn't Margiela the man himself anymore, so John can only continue the line, not attempt to trace over, or attempt to recreate the past. I appreciate that confidence of moving forward on John's part, all the while injecting his brand of decadent polish and dramatics without losing Margiela's thoughtful, artisanal touch. It all just feels genuine to me, both in terms of John's contribution as a designer and as a progression of Margiela's House.

Where's that progression, through? And most importantly, to whom? It most certainly isn't coming from John, because if you quite literally replace the fabrics of most of those looks with luxurious ones, you would get an old Galliano collection in its essence; and it isn't for Margiela, because he's giving the hause a very allianted look. If anything, this is a big regression.

The problem is that he's working as if he was back at his house, point and simple. He's producing the collections he would produce there, just simply using the "deconstructed" and "unusual fabrics" to make it seem like it belong at MMM, but it doesn't. It comes out as gimmicky, deceiving and soulless. Margiela is so modern, urban, youthful, with its finger on the pulse of society. It's not pretty and glamorous. It doesn't need fantasy and romance.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Margiela is so modern, urban, youthful, with its finger on the pulse of society. It's not pretty and glamorous. It doesn't need fantasy and romance.

This sounds like the opposite problem at Dior with Raf, LOL.

Regardless - I think Margiela needed an injection of a little hot blood...I think people can forget a lot of the humor and eccentricity of the original Margiela. I like seeing that back at the house...of course it's a slightly different breed of humor and eccentricity, but either way, it makes sense for the house, in my opinion. I think the house would have suffered with a designer who was more "fashion conscious." I find that that look is getting tired and slowly on its way out, thankfully.

 

[Yohji]

This type of drama has been missing from Couture for quite a while now; since Tisci decided not to do Couture any more, to be precise. The fact that it doesn't really resemble the Margiela aesthetic doesn't bother me that much for that reason.

Leaving Dior ended up being quite a good decision artistically considering he was stuck in a rut before his departure.

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

Sorry but I can't see any fantastic outfits...oh wait, it's cool to like this brand

 

[Marc10]

This sounds like the opposite problem at Dior with Raf, LOL.

... ok? But this a Maison Martin Margiela discussion.

 

[Spike413]

Absolutely love this, possibly even more than his debut Artisinal collection. There's something about this that feels really vital, really energetic in a way -- I suppose it could be that very free, experimental quality to it that others have pointed out. Some of the pieces feel, not so much like works in progress in a half-baked sort of way, but ideas that you can tell morphed as they went along as opposed to being super precise from the initial idea. Those opening pieces that from afar look almost classical, if slightly askew, that then turn around to reveal a back made entirely from an old jacket that becomes a sort of bustle are absolutely beautiful, as are the shocks of cobalt and green mixed in here and there.

And that final mariée exit, that's just a stunning, stunning look. A wonderful halfway point between pure Galliano and pure Margiela.

 

[florylate]

This is his best collection yet and there's so much thought put into each one of these looks. He's challenging the people who are trying to find fault with everything he's done this year...good luck to them.

This is a good balance between the Margiela identity and his own identity. There were some looks (like #15) where I thought that it's what he just did at Dior couture, only for the model to turn around and show me why it also fits in a Margiela show.

 

[jescajade]

Incroyable! so many well executed ideas I love how eclectic it all is, looks 5, 18, 19, and 25 are just superb the detail work is fantastic. I feel like John is getting to grips with Maison Margiela, while bringing his own signatures to the maison, its exciting. The best show of Couture season by absolute miles!