Milan Menswear F/W 07/08 In Review

ilaughead

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Someone started a thread for this last season, and I thought it was really interesting to compare the collections side by side. So, I'll start.

:heart::heart::heart::heart::heart:
-Fendi--Everything was absolutely wonderful. The colors, the silhouettes, even the bags. Hands down the best Milanese collection this season. My favorite pieces were the Balenciaga-esque coats.
-Burberry Prorsum--Not to my tastes, but the collection definately is perfect for the season. I love the elongated torso looks and the herringbone print blazer.
-Marni--Boring as it was, every look was wearable and sophisticated. The outerwear, especially, was excellent!

:heart::heart::heart::heart:
-Prada--Okay, it is unwearable. However, it is also undeniably fresh. The juxtaposition of the electric colors and the caveman theme worked perfectly. On the more commercial side of things, the oversized, short-sleeve sweaters paired up with skiny pants work really well.
-Bottega Veneta--Much too old and grown up for me, but there were some great pieces, which were styled to perfection. A green coat with matching fingerless gloves and a crocodile Noé-style bag were among the best pieces.
-Missoni--As much as I liked last season's preppy theme, urban skier was even better. The athletic baggy pants to the colorful mock neck sweaters, Missoni was modern, playful, and wearable.
-Gucci--Though I seem to be in the minority, I think Frida is doing a great job. Parts of the collection are a little bit tasteless, but Gucci does tasteless better than any other house. The suiting was really nice, too.

:heart::heart::heart:
-Jil Sander--I'm not into minimalism, but it was very wearable, and the colors were exceptional compared to this spring's colors.
-Etro--Colorful and playful have always described Etro, but this season, sophisticated and tasteful can be added to the vocabulary.

:heart::heart:
-Alexander McQueen--Too many of the pieces had proportions inspired by Balenciaga that only work on women. The majority of it looked awkward and ugly.
-Calvin Klein--Exceedingly simple and boring. There aren't words to describe the feeling clicking through all the looks.
-Giorgio Armani--See above.
-Miu Miu--The clothing looks awkward and ill fitting. And the shoes? Don't get me started.

:heart:
-Dsquared--It's always about a show for the Caten brothers, and this was no exception. The clothes, as usual, were few and far between, as well as predictable and tasteless.
-Dolce & Gabbana--Too much unwearable, too much ugly, too many astronauts, too much Dolce & Gabbana. They do the same thing every season, but luckily it ends up looking better than Dsqaured.
-Versace--I can't bring myself to like Versace. Under any circumstances.
-Valentino--Boring. Boring. Boring. I haven't any idea why they even do a runway production when a showroom presentation would suit it so much better.


I'm not long winded at all...of course not.
 
Good thread! Milan actually didn't seem as full. It was almost as if some shows were missing. :unsure:

The Good ^_^

00400m.jpg

(men.style.com)

1. Valentino
- This is an absolute first! I've never liked much of Valentino, especially menswear because it lacked something. But this collection was so beautiful for me personally and is at the top of my list. It was very refined and elegant, but had something fresh and younger about it. I can safely say I'd wear almost 95% of it. And the tuxedo above caught my eye! Must have!

2. Burberry - Great outerwear!

00240m.jpg

(men.style.com)

3. Versace
- It was not as good as Spring 2007 or Fall 2006, but there were some nice pieces I thought. And in addition, I like that it's a bit more toned down. Several nice jumpers!

4. Prada - Some of it was unwearable, but what was wearable was nice and basic and could be nice additions for a wardrobe. I liked the trousers and jumpers.

5. Alessandro Dell'Acqua - Many many nice things for me to wear!



The Evil :evil:

00020m.jpg

(men.style.com)


1. DSquared
- Old Navy and p*rn Parade. Trashy. (But on the contrary, they choose good models! ^_^)

2. Giorgio Armani
- Long show with boring contents.

3. J. Lindeberg - I thought the pieces were sloppy.


And the In Between :neutral::

Alexander McQueen
, Dolce & Gabbana, Calvin Klein, and Costume National.
 
ilaughead said:
:heart::heart::heart::heart::heart:
-Burberry Prorsum--Not to my tastes, but the collection definately is perfect for the season. I love the elongated torso looks and the herringbone print blazer.
-Marni--Boring as it was, every look was wearable and sophisticated. The outerwear, especially, was excellent!

:heart::heart::heart::heart:
-Prada--Okay, it is unwearable. However, it is also undeniably fresh. The juxtaposition of the electric colors and the caveman theme worked perfectly. On the more commercial side of things, the oversized, short-sleeve sweaters paired up with skiny pants work really well.
-Gucci--Though I seem to be in the minority, I think Frida is doing a great job. Parts of the collection are a little bit tasteless, but Gucci does tasteless better than any other house. The suiting was really nice, too.

:heart::heart::heart:
-Jil Sander--very wearable, and the colors were exceptional compared to this spring's colors.
-Etro--Colorful and playful have always described Etro, but this season, sophisticated and tasteful can be added to the vocabulary.

:heart::heart:
-Calvin Klein--Exceedingly simple and boring. There aren't words to describe the feeling clicking through all the looks.
-Giorgio Armani--See above.
-Miu Miu--The clothing looks awkward and ill fitting. And the shoes? Don't get me started.

:heart:
-Dsquared--It's always about a show for the Caten brothers, and this was no exception. The clothes, as usual, were few and far between, as well as predictable and tasteless.
-Dolce & Gabbana--Too much unwearable, too much ugly, too many astronauts, too much Dolce & Gabbana. They do the same thing every season, but luckily it ends up looking better than Dsqaured.(it was fun at least)
-Versace--I can't bring myself to like Versace. Under any circumstances.
-Valentino--Boring. Boring. Boring. I haven't any idea why they even do a runway production when a showroom presentation would suit it so much better.
.

not really quoting but paraphrasing since i pretty much agree with everything he said... look at the bold emphasis!
 
Phantastic

Alexander McQueen ~ Loved the superhero concept. The use of plastix, patents etc. really did it for me.

Fendi ~ Really luxurious palette and decadent fabrix. Tight silhouette with just the right degree of deviation.

Horrid

DSquared ~ As above...trashy, cheap, uninspiring, waste of space, gives homoz a bad name.
 
My top tier is sort of predictable. Jil, McQueen, Costume National and Prada. I'm still holding to my initial reactions to these. I'd wear the bulk of what they showed. Prada is slightly less because the mohair + colors aren't for me, but there's this suit that I'm not obsessed with. All of the subtle shifts and details are growing on me. With Costume, I'm not a fan of the furrier looks and some of the whites, but the rest is very much in line with me. McQueen is a source of constant fascination and this season is no exception. I've gotten less interested in his current s/s show since it was shown, but this gets me back to previous levels of obsessiveness- especially in terms of the show pieces. With Jil, I'm still missing out on seeing some really out-of-nowhere new cut, but the collection as a whole is very satisfying. With new shots coming out, I'm picking up on new details and pieces I'd glazed over before are moving up the ranks.

Now that I'm thinking about this, I'm going to add Etro in around this point. It's sort of the big surprise of the Milan season for me. The "mature" Etro.

There are a lot in the middle. I liked the colors at Moschino. The quirky accessories at Marras. There were a few CK pieces I really liked. Prorsum and BV were nice for the most part, but not really "me". Versace can be here too. I liked some pieces/colors.

At the bottom are the usual whipping boys. D&G could actually move up toward the middle, but it's easier to just say that was surprisingly better than its big brother. That whole LOOK AT US. WE'RE FUTURISTIC trend fits in here too. Not futuristic influences per se, but the ones that are really trying and failing. Dsquared is also here because they aren't brave enough to do hardcore S&M. Rather they just dress up the same old stuff with a little whip or what not. Valentino is also way down there because it's lifelessly dull and as ilaughead said, this stuff doesn't need to be on a runway.

edit- I forgot about Marni and Fendi. I need to look at them again.... definitely middle. maybe higher.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The Good

  • McQueen
  • Fendi
  • Burberry Prorsum
  • Gucci
  • Bottega Veneta
  • Allesandro Dell'Acqua
  • Costume National
The Mediocre
  • Versace
  • J.Lindeberg
  • D&G
  • Marni
  • Jil Sander
  • Miu Miu
  • Etro


The Heinous

  • Dsquared
  • Dolce & Gabbana
  • Emporio Armani
  • Prada
  • Gianfranco Ferre
  • Missoni
 
Dustcakeboy said:
Phantastic


Fendi ~ Really luxurious palette and decadent fabrix. Tight silhouette with just the right degree of deviation.

i like this idea... it reminds me of what i read about LV spring summer 07: "juxtaposition de l'opulence et l'indigence"
 

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