Phoebe Philo to leave Céline

[dodencebt]

PARIS — Long-time Céline designer Phoebe Philo is leaving the house after 10 years, WWD has learned.

According to a source with knowledge of the matter, Philo will not work for another label in the near future and her successor to the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned house will be named in the coming months.

The fall 2018 collection, to be presented in March, will be the last collection crafted by the designer.

In the interim, the label’s collections will be designed by Céline teams, “in keeping with the craftsmanship the house is renowned for,” the person said.

In a statement seen by WWD, the designer thanked her teams.

“Working with Céline has been an exceptional experience for me these last 10 years. I am grateful to have worked with an incredibly talented and committed team and I would like to thank everyone along the way who has been part of the collaborations and conversations… it’s been amazing.”

LVMH chairman and chief executive Bernard Arnault said:

“What Phoebe has accomplished over the past ten years represents a key chapter in the history of Céline. We are very grateful to Phoebe for having contributed to the great momentum of this Maison. A new era of development for Céline will now start and I am extremely confident in the future success of this iconic Maison.”

Philo, who arrived at Céline after taking time out to raise her family, had won acclaim for a stellar stint at Chloé. She transformed Céline with sleek and luxurious leather goods and modernist clothing.

wwd.com

 

[Fiercification]

Just read this. It was inevitable but it's still very sad . Even though I didn't love her recent S/S 18 outing, it was still superior to most other collections recently.

To me Phoebe has produced some of the only really beautiful, thought-provoking collections this decade (F/W 2015, S/S 2017 come to mind), although admittedly sometimes her work was very clinical and overly conceptual.

Has it really been 10 years though? She must have been working behind the scenes a lot (her first show was Resort 2010, no?)

 

[ToniOrtega]

Quite devastating but a bit expected. End of an era!

 

[lelaid]

I feel like she's going to Burberry.

 

[Nymphaea]

As expected, waiting for the next move of Celine and Phoebe.

 

[thatsfierce]

This is truly sad, I believe is the end of an era.

 

[MulletProof]

I can't believe it's already been 10 years! I always look at her collections like she's on her third or fourth year.

She's had a stellar, flawless decade there, even when ripping off Sharon Wauchob. Céline was 200% s*it before her and for such a long time.. now we all think of Céline as something clean.. forward-thinking, she's been amazing for them but I don't blame her for wanting to move on after such a long time.. I would!

 

[Norden]

A flawless tenure indeed. Even her mistakes where better than her peers accomplishments. 10 years is a great time to move on

 

[dodencebt]

My heart goes out to Victoria Beckham in these hard times.

 

[jeanclaude]

OMG! Panic time for New York designers...who are they gonna copy from now on??

 

[tatouejeremie]

My heart goes out to Victoria Beckham in these hard times.

she's probably going on a hiring spree now

 

[Lola701]

Such a sad news even if it was expected with all the changes happening right now at Celine.

I feel very empty about this news. It's so weird to have build a very personal relationship with the clothes someone designed and a whole universe and then suddenly, see it disappear. For me this is as important as Tom Ford leaving Gucci & YSL or Nicolas Ghesquiere leaving Balenciaga.

She did a really wonderful job. Seriously, from the first one to the latest, she has gave to fashion the energy it needed. Her influence is tremendous and while people may think that Michele or Gvasalia have a real influence, we are still in a very Philo-Ghesquiere dominated era.

Before, at Chloé, she was just a good designer. Today, she has reached icon status with a cult similar to Miuccia or Rei.

I've been told by someone that she had a meeting a few seasons ago at 31 rue Cambon. So, i totally believe that she is not going to Burberry....Her contract makes it impossible right now.

Thank god we still have LOEWE by JWA which is going to fill the blank space post-Celine.

WHo can replace her? Jacquemus! Jacquemus! Jacquemus!
He has the maturity and i would love to see what he can do in a luxury world.

Just read this. It was inevitable but it's still very sad . Even though I didn't love her recent S/S 18 outing, it was still superior to most other collections recently.

To me Phoebe has produced some of the only really beautiful, thought-provoking collections this decade (F/W 2015, S/S 2017 come to mind), although admittedly sometimes her work was very clinical and overly conceptual.

Has it really been 10 years though? She must have been working behind the scenes a lot (her first show was Resort 2010, no?)

Yes, it has been 10 years. She signed her contract between October and December 2008 and presented her Celine resort in June 2009. It took time to totally revamp the brand.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

Wow, an end of an era indeed! Her decade at the brand was perfection, from start to finish, for me!

I know it's obvious people think she will defo go to Burberry, but my god i can't see it, she should really think long what her next move is gonna be! She deserves nothing but a top job!

 

[donyan]

this is very sad , Celine was consistedly great , creatively and quality-wise , a true Luxury Brand.
I think Lutz Huelle would be a perfect match, especially now that he’s finally on everybody’s radar

 

[StockholmFW]

No, no, NO!!

 

[Lola701]

this is very sad , Celine was consistedly great , creatively and quality-wise , a true Luxury Brand.
I think Lutz Huelle would be a perfect match, especially now that he’s finally on everybody’s radar

Unfortunately, talent and hype is not enough today. I really don't think that a designer like Lutz would want to work under a big conglomerate with huge expectations and all of that at a big turning point for the brand.

This is LVMH and we are not in 1997 or in the early 00's anymore. Creativity is not what drive that kind of business. Look at Dior and Givenchy today.
The same can also happen to Celine or Fendi when Karl leave.

 

[pollyanna90]

I'm sad she's leaving. I bet someone really hollow is going to replace her unfortunately

 

[kenndale]

Johnathan Saunders popped into my mind for some very odd reason. (Though I’d prefer him at Burberry)

 

[Benn98]

Even though I expected it, still find it a bit shocking. She somehow kept the brand, the aestetic, her offering very constant for the entire decade. 10 Years is far too long to function in such a defined vessel, but she did it.

All the pieces of the puzzle pointed out on here is slowly falling in place, so I believe the Burberry rumour to be true. There too, I think she could turn the brand into a different direction, which shouldn't be too hard because Bailey didn't leave them in tatters. Or perhaps for that very reason it will be.

 

[donyan]

Unfortunately, talent and hype is not enough today. I really don't think that a designer like Lutz would want to work under a big conglomerate with huge expectations and all of that at a big turning point for the brand..

You’re probably right , but he would be able to keep an aesthetic vision and make it desirable commercially. I always liked his stuff but he really has hit his stride now . anyway , we can always dream