Raf Simons collection pictures from the 1990's

[Tyler_Durden]

And I've got a question not sure can u answer it.
I saw some sweater in 02SS collection Sized OS.
Does it mean Over-Size or One-size?
And for some item they seems only have the Size OS as I never see size 46 or 48 for some item like sleeveless sweater in 02SS & those sweater in 02aw 03ss

 

[faust]

And I've got a question not sure can u answer it.
I saw some sweater in 02SS collection Sized OS.
Does it mean Over-Size or One-size?
And for some item they seems only have the Size OS as I never see size 46 or 48 for some item like sleeveless sweater in 02SS & those sweater in 02aw 03ss

The first rule of fightclub - OS means one size (but it probably IS oversized ). There is a cool wool knit hoodie in size 46 on Ebay from Raf's earlier days - I would totally snatch that if I were you.

 

[purechris]

^^

thanks Buckwheat

now I'm reminded that I need to buy that book.....

 

[faust]

^^

thanks Buckwheat

now I'm reminded that I need to buy that book.....

It's out of print, but I'll let you flip through mine when you visit

 

[Buckwheat]

Originally Posted by faust
It's out of print, but I'll let you flip through mine when you visit

haha... ...that's a nice book indeed.

I have more Raf's stuff coming...I will post them up later

 

[Arturo21]

Great thread, Buckwheat

Looking back, I like his collections more and more. I was originally very closed to it, but not anymore. I like what I'm seeing from his new collection, too.

 

[mkd1187]

forgot the attachment....

The leather overcoat is AMAZING

 

[Buckwheat]

Alright here we go gang. I was searching through his works on internet and I found a list of his collections and images. The following materials are from CFA (contemporary fashion archive) www.contemporaryfashion.net

Let us go back to 1995....

Raf Simons Collection Autumn/Winter 1995/1996

Raf Simons first collection, presented at the Danielli Ghiselli showroom in Milan.

English schoolboys and their uniforms inspired the collection. Characteristics were the very tight silhouette and the classical materials in dark colours (grey, black, navy). The collection was presented with three large black/white pictures of two boys he spotted on the street, and with a promotional video.

too bad no images were provided on this....

 

[Buckwheat]

Raf Simons Collection Spring/Summer 1996

Second season, shown in a private showroom in Paris.

Illustrated by four life-size colour pictures of some boys and a girl and by a black/ white 8mm video of the same young people, hanging around at home in an atmosphere that is reminiscent of Warhol’s ‘Factory’.

The collection was inspired by David Bowie in the late seventies-early eighties, by Antonioni’s “Blow Up” and by the film “Christiane F”.
The silhouette was again very close to the body. Classic materials were mixed with strong colour accents. Alternation of cheap and chic, classic and trash.

no images on this too....

 

[Buckwheat]

We Only Come Out at Night Collection Autumn/Winter 1996/1997

Raf organises his first presentation for the press and his clients in a Paris art gallery.

A video was projected on a large white wall, while the kids appearing on screen were walking around in the gallery wearing the same outfits. The video tells a story about 11 rich children all dressed up, who retire to their rooms after a dull cocktail-party in their elderly home. They change into trash outfits and hang around, watch T.V., dance, conjure up ghosts, etc.
In the showroom 8 blown-up close-ups of youngsters who look as if they belong to the ‘Adams family’ were shown together with a photo of a businessman in a very classical outfit and a black motor-helmet on the head. Another picture was a parody of Wednesday Adams sitting in a wicker chair.

Atmosphere of the collection and of the video:
‘The Adams Family’ - kids, Kate Bush, The Cure, 80’s New Wave, Punk.
All the models had dyed black hair and pale faces.
The silhouette: tight, strictly classical shapes with influences of Punk and New Wave.
Materials: English wool mixed with leather.

again no images!!!

 

[Colette_B]

thanks for the images buckwheat, they're great! i love the outfits in post #1

 

[Buckwheat]

How To Talk To Your Teen Collection Spring/Summer 1997

The collection was presented in a photo studio in Paris. A video showing 14 teenagers who run out of school and finally come together in an imaginary U.F.O., an environment created by themselves where they can indulge their fantasies in contrast with their daily life and earthly things such as school, parents, etc.

The showroom was decorated with three large pictures taken from the video, and with 25 seventies style Plexiglas photo-cubes with photo’s of the teenagers.

The silhouette is again tight and close to the body, inspired by the Mods and the Punks in combination with schoolboys and surf boys.
The materials are classical combined with vivid colours. They look old and washed off.
Trash t-shirts with prints or pearls and shirts embroidered with ‘Teenage Summer camp’.
The colours: red, jeans, brown, kaki, white, grey and black.

Finally some images.....

photo credit: © Ronald Stoops

 

[Buckwheat]

Raf Simons Collection Autumn/Winter 1997/1998

Raf Simons gave his first fashion show in Paris on Sunday January 26th 1997.

The collection does not radiate a 1997 atmosphere.
The inspiration: Transition between Punk and New Wave; Exchange project between American University students and English schoolboys at a British campus. The Look: American college students and English schoolboys with a background of New Wave and Punk. Mixture of different elements of youth-culture, e.g. the leather ‘perfecto’ jacket is reminiscent of Raf Simons’ own youth and now he gives his own interpretation of this youth-symbol.
The collection is always a mixture of cheap and chic, as well in the choice of the materials (mostly classical fabrics mixed with some trashy items) as in the design of the different models.

No images on this.....

 

[Buckwheat]

Black Palms Collection Spring/Summer 1998

Black Palms: featuring heavy metal-style prints, cut-off sleeves and tight tailoring, set to a soundtrack of Belgian New Beat. Fashion show at a garage in Paris.

The graphic design of the 'Black Palms' was made by Franky Claeys.

credit:
first image - © Franky Claeys
backstage photos - © Ronald Stoops

 

[Buckwheat]

Radioactivity Collection Autumn/Winter 1998/1999

Raf Simons organised his elaborately orchestrated show, called ‘RADIOACTIVITY’ in the Moulin Rouge in Paris on Friday January 23rd 1998.

The collection was inspired by: Kraftwerk, Laurie Anderson, Vanessa Beecroft, Ceremony the 80’s New Wave and Punk. The show was a continuous alternation of classic and trash.

Make-up and Hair: The head group of the models had dyed black hair and pale faces. The faces of the Kraftwerk part were made up in white, with bright red lips. Four spider-men appeared with a spider-web on their faces.
The silhouettes: Tight, strictly classical, shapes with influences of Punk, New Wave and historical costumes. The coats had a sharp form and shiny zippers. A group of female models appeared wearing slim classic jackets, bodysuits, tights and high heeled shoes and with shiny motorcycle helmets on their heads, all in black.

Colours : Black, Grey and red (Kraftwerk shirts)

 

[Buckwheat]

Kinetic Youth Collection Spring/Summer 1999

Raf Simons organised his show at the “Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie” in Paris on the 3rd of July 1998.
The “Kinetic Youth” collection was presented outside, in front of the enormous mirror ball located in La Villette’s Science and Industry museum in Paris. The set refers to the architectural influences in Raf Simons’ life and also to kinetic objects from his youth.

Raf Simons used different songs of David Bowie during the whole show.

The opening part:
The show opened with David Bowie’s “Space Oddity” and the opening part was inspired by the graphic style of “Bauhaus”;
-Clean lines
-Shirts with white/black contrast (different black pleats in the back and black triangle on the front)
-Black wool pants with on the front one, two or three pleats

The second part:
A group of very young teenagers wearing white turtleneck shirts with an “R” symbol, stitched on the collar. Their pants were all in different colours; red, petrol, light grey, mint, beige mêlée, marine…The models walked together in a group on the bridge, on one side of the runway leading to the mirror ball, then to the central building and to the bridge on the opposite side of the first one.
-Inspiration: School Memories, for example gymnastic lessons in uniform, repetition.
-Music: “Life on Mars”, David Bowie.

The global idea behind the last two show parts was the inspiration of the “Rubik’s cube” object; order and disorder of colours.

The third part:
Classic ton-sur-ton outfits with merino wool knitted pullovers and classic suits. This time the pleated pants are light grey, beige mêlée, brown and marine.

The fourth part:
The most important material in this part was the coloured leather. Raf Simons showed mixed coloured outfits, like trashed cutted rock t-shirts in yellow and green, with large leather jogging pants and sleeveless tunic jackets. Colours brown, grey, light grey, aubergine, mint, green, red……
-Music: “Heroes”, David Bowie.

The song of the final part: ”Another brick in the Wall” from Pink Floyd.
The whole group of ca. 60 boys walked quite fast on the runway, but now in the opposite direction. The order becomes a disorder, as in the song: ”we don’t need no education”. Raf Simons feels inspired by youth culture: on one side they are wearing uniforms, but inside they still feel like HEROES, like unique individuals.

 

[Buckwheat]

Disorder-Incubation-Isolation Collection Autumn/Winter 1999/2000

9th season, the collection is shown in a Filmstudio “Studio Carrère” on the Avenue du Président Wilson no. 50 in Paris close to Porte de la Chapelle on Friday 29th January 1999 at 09h30 pm.

A little group of teenagers opened the show, with black flags featuring the following words:

DISORDER INCUBATION ISOLATION

These words are important to describe the image of the collection, and it is also a memorial to Joy Division.

The global idea of this collection is to make a reference to the past, specially the first two parts of the show. Fashion goes so quick that people tend to forget the historical meaning of clothes, especially costumes. This is why the opening of the show was like a procession to create the right atmosphere.

The most important part was a group of models wearing black Capes, classical, asymmetric and circle shapes in ¾ length, a variety of design, an other group wearing ceremonial costumes, shirts with cuffs and collar that are removable. The hair was very constructed in sharp lines. The first three groups had black coloured hair. And in the last part the hair changed to blond coloured hair, but still very constructed hairstyles.

The colour of the outfit changed from black to grey. Raf Simons likes plain, black and monotone, but also he likes the past in contrast to the future. The music was in this part very fast.
The blond group was wearing long light grey and dark grey coats with zippers. The silhouettes are very clean: shirts in classical weaving wool fabrics without collars. Nearly each light grey outfit was with a white “R” Turtleneck and the dark grey outfits with a red “R” Turtleneck.

The music of the show:
1 Placebo - ION
2 Suede - INTRODUCINE THE BAND
3 Ultravox - VIENNA
4 The art of noise - INSTRUMENTS OF DARKNESS
5 The art of noise – PARANOIMIA

photo credit: © Bert Houbrechts

 

[Buckwheat]

same collection....

photo credit: © Marleen Daniëls / Carl Bruyndonckx

 

[Buckwheat]

more....

 

[Buckwheat]

Summa cum laude Collection Spring/Summer 2000

Both inspired by MENSA students and the kids of gabba (a youth movement from Holland and Belgium, most recognisable by its speeded-up techno music); featuring bomber jackets, kaleidoscopic prints and white leather.
Fashion show at film studios 'Studio Carrère' in Paris.

photo credit: © Els Voorspoels ; Videostills