Textile Design

[gius]

Those prices are not bad at all (thankfully)
At a fabric showroom here, some designers are $300+ a metre

I am hoping to get my hands on Nuno's wovens.. They're my favourite, so interesting, textural.. especially designs from their book called "Zawa Zawa" Seems like maybe one is available in the scarf collection on the site

 

[Melisande]

Those prices are not bad at all (thankfully)
At a fabric showroom here, some designers are $300+ a metre

Yes I know, the price range makes the temptation harder to resist. I make sure I have something to make in mind before visiting that store, otherwise I go crazy with new ideas. There are of course fabrics that cost more than 300 dollars, but there many are more affordable.

 

[gius]

Here is another wonderful place to visit..
if you are in the New York City area

Habu Textiles
a showroom/gallery and weaving studio
They import unique yarns, mostly from Japan but also other parts of Asia

We are located on 29th Street between 6th and 7th Avenues (We are not on street level, but on the 8th floor!) in a garment district - only 3 blocks from Madison Square Garden and 2 1/2 blocks from The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City.

Nearest subway station is no. 1 (28th St. Station) or R (28th St. Station). You can also take any trains, which will come to the 34th Street Station (Pennsylvania Station). You are only a few blocks from us.

Attached is a fabric, 100% stainless steel + silk
If you were to scrunch the fabric, it would keep its shape because of the steel (much like some of Sophie Roet's fabrics earlier in this thread)

habutextiles.com

 

[gius]

^ $1,100 a piece
approx. 2 yards by 40" wide

 

[Marvystone]

I thought this was interesting..

Suzanne Lee's BioCouture project explores the possibility of growing garments from bacterial cellulose. Lee, a Senior Research fellow at Central Saint Martins in London and the author of the book Fashioning the Future: tomorrow's wardrobe, has been experimenting with cellulose bacteria and yeast in a bid to bring forward sustainable techniques for manufacturing clothes. The material is cultivated in a sweet tea-solution, allowing the bacteria to produce a material half-way between papyrus and leather with a color that can be altered through the choice of tea. The end product looks like leather (here's a bad photo).

First garment prototype grown from bacterial-cellulose and machine-sewn - Shirt, June 2006

'Denim' jacket flooded with light

Close-ups of sleeve and zippers on showing decorative black patina

Layout of pattern pieces and stencils prior to printing

Current Research
My book, Fashioning The Future: tomorrow's wardrobe, published by Thames & Hudson in September 2005, is a comprehensive exploration of future fashion and new technologies. My interests centre on the creative application of new technologies to design and innovative directions for fashion.My research practice for 2006 builds on experiments over the last year with materials scientist Dr. David Hepworth, to produce a range of Cellulose Couture - clothing grown from bacterial-cellulose.
In my capacity as Creative Director of Hamish Morrow, London I am also involved in bringing cutting edge fashion innovation to the market place. For Spring/Summer 2006 this involved working with NanoTex(r) to bring performance finishes to silk for a range of luxury sportswear.

we-make-money-not-art/csm/biocouture

 

[Petit Lucille]

i'm in love with everything on this thread.

 

[waxy]

^me too. the pictures marvystone just posted are very inspiring!!

 

[gius]

sounds beautiful ..thanks marv.. it gets very industrial / scientific in that section of the field. can only hope for hand-weavers ^^

 

[gius]

Hermes

Carré 70 Ex Libris
- gold on silk

Hand cut velvet

hermes.com | joyce.fr

 

[Crimson C.C]

+100 to this thread! I wish i could contribute but at least i can appreciate it.

 

[educo]

Guis, I know about Habu textiles and I have yet to go there because I will probably have a nervous breakdown being broke and unable to to shop.

I'm interested in getting a loom. Are they expensive?

 

[jezenya]

Fascinating Marvystone, though I have reservations about bacterial and yeasty growths.Wouldn't exposure to natural elements like light and air cause them to breakdown?

 

[gius]

I'm wondering about how durable it is too^

Guis, I know about Habu textiles and I have yet to go there because I will probably have a nervous breakdown being broke and unable to to shop.

I'm interested in getting a loom. Are they expensive?

Very glad to hear that, educo!
The nice thing is, it seems you can get some interesting stuff that is not too expensive..according to the pricelist on the website. Can be good for a sample

Buying a new loom would be expensive ... I think the big floor looms go up past $1,000 and the smaller table ones are $600+.
I often find them on Craigslist, used, for $300-$600 or so for floor looms.. They are great if you have the space; and plus you can make really wide fabrics. I have one, but I have to give it away by April since I'm starting my mobile lifestyle again
You might like to research new designs... like there are floor looms which you can completely fold up and put in your suitcase! This is what I'm after It is a table loom on 'stilts' and retails $675... I've been making bodice patterns and notice the width of my body fits on a table loom (if there's a center seam). So I guess that's all I need.

 

[Marvystone]

Fascinating Marvystone, though I have reservations about bacterial and yeasty growths.Wouldn't exposure to natural elements like light and air cause them to breakdown?

Well I guess factors like you mentioned are fundamental to her research to see whether this is just a pipe dream or if it is actually feasible..There is probably more information on her website

 

[educo]

I'm wondering about how durable it is too^Very glad to hear that, educo!
The nice thing is, it seems you can get some interesting stuff that is not too expensive..according to the pricelist on the website. Can be good for a sample

Buying a new loom would be expensive ... I think the big floor looms go up past $1,000 and the smaller table ones are $600+.
I often find them on Craigslist, used, for $300-$600 or so for floor looms.. They are great if you have the space; and plus you can make really wide fabrics. I have one, but I have to give it away by April since I'm starting my mobile lifestyle again
You might like to research new designs... like there are floor looms which you can completely fold up and put in your suitcase! This is what I'm after It is a table loom on 'stilts' and retails $675... I've been making bodice patterns and notice the width of my body fits on a table loom (if there's a center seam). So I guess that's all I need.

Wow, that's incredible! I guess i could check ebay too! I would definitely want a fold up loom. I'm so interested in adding an extra step to the design process by weaving some fabrics. i should check out habu textiles and give a report!

 

[runner]

super lightweight organic cotton scarf
from haat which is another label from issey miyake inc. directed by a textile designer makiko minagawa since 2000.
her work for haat often shows indian influence.
she had been an in-house textile designer (what they call "textile director" strictly) for issey miyake collections since 1971.
she is from kyoto, btw. it seems that she had already worked as a "senshoku-ka (artist or specialist in dyeing) " while she was a student.

54g
190 × 100cm
spinning, weaving, etc all done in japan
they say executing this featheryiness with the handwoven feel by machine was the technological point here.
it will be out mar 5.



fashionjp

 

[perfect10]

^^ thats beautiful and light, seems almost impossible

 

[gius]

^it's made by machine.. maybe the threads are uneven --that's what they mean by it feels handwoven?
i'm such a fan of Minagawa san , there's a kind of earthiness or something feels natural in her textiles..
I think you can see a lot of her work, photos about the fabric specifically, in one of the books on Issey Miyake. maybe "making things"


educo i agree, sometimes you just can't find the fabric you like at the store..
would love to hear your report when you go !

 

[Marvystone]

Wear Japan Vol 4 - Some really interesting news and articles about textile design and creation in Japan, denim production in Japan, Premiere Vision exhibitors from Japan, 2009 outlook and some more..

 

[Marvystone]

Bear with me this was translated using babel fish..

Travel in the middle of the mythical workshop of Gerard Lognon, craftsman plissor of the largest dressmakers


He is one of the last Masters plisseurs of our country. As soon as a creator outlines a fold, it knows that it will find in the workshop of Gerard Lognon the mould corresponding to his dreams of folded most extravagant and the control of the work most perfect which is. In a word: excellence.



A family of plisseurs…


Gathered on a rack, the moulds known as imagination are juxtaposed in a merry alignment, testimonys of the richness of the inheritance of Gerard Lognon.

Since four generations, Lognons fold… There initially was the back grandmother, Emilie. The history tells that it goffered with the hand at the time of Napoleon III… At the beginning of the twentieth century, it is the Georges grandfather who, vis-a-vis at the request of the dressmakers, creates a true specialized company in the fold.

Little before the beginning second world war, the workshop counts nearly sixty workers!
Sixty ten years later, they are nothing any more but five to work… Mrs Liliane carrying out the ball, distilling around it the requests of Mr Lognon whose glance as sharp-edged as that of a scanner reviews the last folds left the drying oven…



Stage by stage, all art to fold…

Pose against - mould for one folded sun. One distinguishes well the two parts out of paperboard which come to be juxtaposed except for the millimetre.





To carry out this folded flat, four hands expert are too not… They must be light and move constantly over all the width not to leave of mark on fabric. This exercise also requires a perfect coordination.

Once folded, the mould and the against-mould tight between two wood are firmly bound by garcettes. It is this “package” which will have passed to the drying oven to 100° during approximately an hour.





For the passage out of drying oven, it is necessary to await a dozen hours before opening the “package” so that the temperature fell down and that the folds really took.
Here finally come the hour moving by the opening from the mould… and appearance so much awaited of folded. A wing of the mould delicately is raised while a nimble hand seizes fabric…

These perfect traces left in the white snow of fabric… or the succeeded artisanal dream.

Various examples of folded known as imagination, superimposed moulds and fabrics…

aiguille-en-fete