Chanel Cruise 2022 Les Baux-de-Provence

[YohjiAddict]

Too little-girl-ish, reminds me of Maria Disgrazia's collections, are they afraid of womanliness these two? Of glamour?

The fit is of course an abherration, the lenghts are all wrong as has been noted in her every thread. I don't even want to look closely at each look, my blood pressure shoots up at the sight of such sloppiness, of such mediocrity and ugliness. She's a lost cause.

The mini-dresses with fishnets (fishnets are hideous. Please don't!) scream wannabe rocker chic who's idea of heaven is a Bershka clearance sale.

P.S: I can't quite believe Pavlovsky cares about YSL last show, those Chanel suits looked awfully cheap...and by now every designer has done their own take on the jacket, it's to be expected from designers without ideas like Anthony.

 

[JohannesL]

Terrible collection as usual. I don't expect a new Karl for Chanel, but her collections as a whole should not have any place in the Chanel archive IMO and she only creates one endless collection every season. She is such a disgrace for the ultimate women's brand of the world.

 

[Norden]

It’s a return to this idea of the rocker chick that Karl did somewhere around 2006. Technically hers is lighter but somehow it feels heavier handed. The styling of the hair is very ghesquiere. When it was aspirational in 2006 it now feels dated and very muted.
I really feel her effort, and like Sarah burton you want her to succeed because of their loyalty and history. But there’s a reason for them having always been the assistant. these houses desperately need fresh energy.

 

[Lola701]

It’s a return to this idea of the rocker chick that Karl did somewhere around 2006. Technically hers is lighter but somehow it feels heavier handed. The styling of the hair is very ghesquiere. When it was aspirational in 2006 it now feels dated and very muted.
I really feel her effort, and like Sarah burton you want her to succeed because of their loyalty and history. But there’s a reason for them having always been the assistant. these houses desperately need fresh energy.

Burton is talented tho...
Virginie just fills a position.

I think Virginie has a clear vision of her woman but she is not a designer and surely not a technician. The Art of dressmaking here is a total disaster...

Burton is boring at McQueen but nobody can say that her clothes are bad. She is in control of her aesthetic.

 

[perhydrol]

^The problem with Burton is that she's not Lee, her aesthetic is much softer and commercial. It creates a clash, because people expect something dark and raw from McQueen yet they won't get it, even if Sarah usually recreates pieces from the archives. However, her clothes are always perfectly made, no matter how complicated they are.

On the other hand, Virginie seems to be in a wrong place. In terms of techniques, this collection is far from perfect, and actually that might be the reason why the clothes are pretty relaxed and loose when it comes to silhouettes. Visually, you can see that she's getting more and more desperate. That's why she made those nods to Cocteau. I don't want to comment on them, because they're a complete no-brainer. The rest is not as offensive as usual, but it's the same teenage level of design. So yeah, instead of criticizing Anthony Vaccarello, Bruno Pavlovsky should focus on his own maison.

 

[joedago]

It looks really ill-fitting to me and would look bad on ' regular' people: these are super slim/skinny/size 0 women and it makes them look like 38 size models

 

[Phuel]

Too little-girl-ish, reminds me of Maria Disgrazia's collections, are they afraid of womanliness these two? Of glamour?

Her and Maria Grazia would likely disguise their lack of creative talent and technical skills by saying that their fashions are for “real women”— and the masses lap it up cuz that’s so “empowering”. There seems to be a pattern of frumpiness/dumpiness with the likes of her and Maria-Grazia— all claiming to champion “real” women and body-positive trendiness, with which the “diverse” cast and whatever profitable virtue-signaling ploy is more important than the creativity of design and/or any technical application. It’s a marketing-gimmick template of any corporation that wants to maximize profit margins by selling to as many “average-size” customers and their consumer-taste as possible while still keeping their (still-rising) premium price point, and minimizing revenue losses with conservative creative direction and investment.

I suppose by having even models look dumpy in ill-fitting smocks, it’s more relatable to the average shopper: There’s nothing to aspire to when even models look like the average outlet shopper. Virginie’s is the epitome of soulless mall-clothes-- just like Maria Grazia's is the epitome of department-store designs. If some nameless suburban mall in middle-America put on a fashion show, this dowdy basic offering and presentation would be it. The dream is dead.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I have a serious question. Does anyone have any real suggestions for who could take the reins at Chanel? For me... I really don't know. It is such a huge entity that I cannot see anyone like Vaccarello or Hedi or Burton taking on and injecting their ideas into something of that size and importance. I'm not a fan of this "Zara for rich people" trend going on at Chanel and Dior, but I can't see Chanel going thru a change in design from a new creative director with such a massive market that stems from its iconic heritage. If I was a designer I would be scared sh*tless given a job like that

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Can only conclude Virginie is keeping the corporation happy with her offering. Otherwise, like any corporate culture’s protocol, she would be out. She is a sign of the times.

My dream would be Haider and his brand of fashion for Chanel. But of course, such is not a reality— neither for the times we're in nor for Chanel’s bottom line— and I can’t see Haider would want such a compromise. Riccardo on the other hand… He’s taking on a more commercial/consumer brand without any personal floundering or stumbles (at least in terms of securing solid brand-identity and profits for Burberry. Although it’s such a non-event label with his appointment, unlike when Christopher was there…). Chanel is much less consumer-accessible than any of the mass-coveted high-profile brands; and with his corporate experience at Burberry, Riccardo would do wonders for Chanel-- and its HC. Then again, the standards set by Virginie aren’t that high to surpass.

 

[dontbeadrag]

Literally only one thing I like. Virginie is blind, there is no other excuse for this. Total disaster? No. Absolutely forgettable, outdated and uninteresting? Yes.

Only one reason for me why Chanel is doing well – the brand name. The majority of money comes from the make up, skincare and accessories, we all know that. A lot of those who buy actual apparel, not everyone, but a lot, don't care much about who designed it and how unless it says "Chanel". Also, people are getting more and more branded and materialistic, less and less care about actual good design and exciting fashion.

 

[dontbeadrag]

I have a serious question. Does anyone have any real suggestions for who could take the reins at Chanel?

I know I am annoying with this, but I actually do think Hedi would be a proper fit. He knows how to maintain an aesthetic and build a brand out of a company, a look, and himself. Arguably, he is the only designer left who has huge star power as a persona like Karl did. I wouldn't bee surprised at all, and Chanel is not affiliated with a conglomerate. Hedi wouldn't switch much at this point, I am sure he'd go for Chanel or Hermes as his final destination.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

She's improving (?). I don't hate it as much as usual, but my god she needs to stay away from pants. Copy some of Ghesquiere's trousers! (I'm sure Pavlosky will defend you).

 

[Overindulgence]

If I was a designer I would be scared sh*tless given a job like that

To be fair, I'd be scared sh*tless to be a designer today in general. But at least at a powerhouse like Chanel, as shown by Virginie, you can just slap some logos on easy pieces, a tweed jacket, throw in a flap bag, some pearl necklaces, and call it a day. And you'll have a boss who will help defend it. I believe Chanel has this privilege over many other brands, Karl was doing that for decades but at least there was always wit, creativity, a WOW factor/item, and a sense of chic in Karl's collections that Virginie's lack.

I don't mean to psychoanalyze her but I've read before that she is a very kind and easy-to-work with woman (similar to MGC), and that's great (don't get me wrong). However, I believe that might be a slight weakness for her role. Based on my own work experience, she seems to be the type of worker who are comfortable assisting/helping in the background and not the one leading. Her personal anxieties about the role and her kindness probably makes her a passive and hesitant leader. I imagine she probably says yes to everything for the sake of keeping her team happy and doing the least amount of work possible--which shows in the lack of direction (and ill-fits) in her collections. Just my own assumptions.

I'm not even asking for creativity at this point--I just want some energy. If you're going to do basic pieces, at least inject some genuine attitude into it (whether it's through the styling, presentation, casting, or all of the above). I was optimistic that she'd take Chanel in the mid 2000s (and even early 2010s) direction, that cool Parisian/LA rockstar's girlfriend chic vibe. I think that would be perfect for the current 2000s revival. But whatever she's doing currently..or attempting to...is not working out. Maybe someone needs to tape the S/S 2006 ad campaign to her moodboard.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ I believe what you’re seeing now with Chanel is the extend of Virginie giving attitude LOL

I know I am annoying with this, but I actually do think Hedi would be a proper fit. He knows how to maintain an aesthetic and build a brand out of a company, a look, and himself. Arguably, he is the only designer left who has huge star power as a persona like Karl did. I wouldn't bee surprised at all, and Chanel is not affiliated with a conglomerate. Hedi wouldn't switch much at this point, I am sure he'd go for Chanel or Hermes as his final destination.

So essentially what he’s doing at Celine— just replaced with the Chanel logo/monogram…???

I guess the casting, styling and presentation would at least register a pulse, unlike the misery of Virginie’s current branding. Hedi’s always been a stronger menswear designer than for women, so the potential for Chanel men will at last become a reality (since I can't imagine he would sign on unless he gets menswear as well). But just more of his Celine (boys)menswear isn't very exciting: the days of his YSL Men/Dior Homme masterful vision is long gone :sigh:

 

[Kimihiro]

I know I am annoying with this, but I actually do think Hedi would be a proper fit. He knows how to maintain an aesthetic and build a brand out of a company, a look, and himself. Arguably, he is the only designer left who has huge star power as a persona like Karl did. I wouldn't bee surprised at all, and Chanel is not affiliated with a conglomerate. Hedi wouldn't switch much at this point, I am sure he'd go for Chanel or Hermes as his final destination.

I could see it, if Hedi would lose the stubbornness, be more conceptual like his early Dior Homme days and relinquish some control. His is stubbornness one thing that Karl wanted him to get rid off. He needs to get his ego checked, because I doubt he’d want to end his career at Celine, and he wouldn’t want to go somewhere but up. Nobody does branding better than him but then something like that might be deterrent to a house like Chanel. The house needs someone with a strong vision to be on pulse again, but strong vision usually doesn’t compromise.

Anyways this collection is an improvement, but it seems like Virginie still can’t find her footing. The styling could use some edit—remove one thing as Mademoiselle Coco said. Looks were ruined because of quirky styling choices.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I agree that Hedi is about the only suitable choice for Chanel.

My favorite period of Karl's Chanel was when he was hawking Hedi's style both in design and casting...the Irina Lazareanu years...those were good times.

 

[LoveFashion25]

Just seems like a "been there done that" to me.

 

[Nomar]

What an absolute mess. Some of the styling is just downright appalling and those punk looks should be burnt.

 

[Lola701]

I think I'm the only person on earth who does not see it at all considering Hedi at Chanel...
I loved when Karl echoed his personal style and obsession of Dior Homme into his work at Chanel but it will be totally ridiculous to attribute the same genius to Hedi, who, in all fairness has proved his limits in terms of womenswear in less than a decade.

I will quietly hope for Nicolas to get the job (or Phoebe). I think Versatility is interesting for a house like Chanel and to have done Vuitton, Balenciaga and Callaghan has gave him a real perspective of the industry and allowed him to experience the whole spectrum.

I think that more than my disappointment for Hedi, my lack of interest to indulge once again in a certain nostalgia is really what makes me champion Nicolas

Karl wanted to be involved with EVERYTHING CHANEL. The Weirthemers never allowed it despite him being their friend. Chanel might be the ultimate brand but I'm very sure The Weirthemers will never allow Hedi to mess with the brand...AKA, force his aesthetic and all it principles into the brand (No Helvetica, redesign of the stores).

Haider is great but I think his clothes are too specific to adapt to a larger than life brand like Chanel. I've always said that he would be great at Hermes. Then, there's this fantasy of Phoebe....

Her and Maria Grazia would likely disguise their lack of creative talent and technical skills by saying that their fashions are for “real women”— and the masses lap it up cuz that’s so “empowering”. There seems to be a pattern of frumpiness/dumpiness with the likes of her and Maria-Grazia— all claiming to champion “real” women and body-positive trendiness, with which the “diverse” cast and whatever profitable virtue-signaling ploy is more important than the creativity of design and/or any technical application. It’s a marketing-gimmick template of any corporation that wants to maximize profit margins by selling to as many “average-size” customers and their consumer-taste as possible while still keeping their (still-rising) premium price point, and minimizing revenue losses with conservative creative direction and investment.

I suppose by having even models look dumpy in ill-fitting smocks, it’s more relatable to the average shopper: There’s nothing to aspire to when even models look like the average outlet shopper. Virginie’s is the epitome of soulless mall-clothes-- just like Maria Grazia's is the epitome of department-store designs. If some nameless suburban mall in middle-America put on a fashion show, this dowdy basic offering and presentation would be it. The dream is dead.

I think somehow it all comes to the ever debate between fashion and clothes.
MGC and Virginie designs clothes...In the most dry way possible. Fashion is more accessible than it has been ever before. People buy from designers products they could buy in the fast fashion or contemporary. And suddenly, for the masses, being fashionable looks more like a fabulous exercise of branding than a real expression of their style or personality.
We see it today in a different way with the obsession over the Birkin and Kelly bags. Growing up, those bags really represented a certain type of ladies: older, bourgeoise, conservative or business women in circles of power. Today, the bag means "I'm rich". So, you have women in fashionova carrying Birkin...The bag is totally detached from it lifestyle.
Why would you want the best quality for your bag and at the same time the worst quality for your clothes?

The level of requirement people have from designers clothes today has completely decreased.

Louis Vuitton menswear is selling like crazy. Why? Simply because they have found the most ingenious ways to put the monogram in every category of products: printed on a shirt, embossed on a suit, embroidered on a sweater...

Today long are gone the days where brands only cared about selling perfumes and accessories. For brands like Chanel, Dior or Vuitton, the bags in some cases costs more than RTW. When LVMH stopped the « J’adore Dior » era of Galliano, they stopped the production of those entry-priced level products. They only came back with MGC. At Chanel, they have always proposed a small sportswear offering...But it wasn’t advertised and it was mostly part of the commercial or precollections...

 

[zoom]

Where is the fit? They've lost it. Insane to ask that question at a house like Chanel every season.