Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[yslforever]

so what exactly was the logic in firing michele and substituting him with this dweeb?

They were no logic, as they did not prepared for a succession; they were no plan for replacements for Marco Bizarri and Alessandro Michele, but then they did not even get their 1st choices. They had introduced a CEO from the parent company but later had to add a CEO deputy, and for the CDs position they interviewed many people, who refused, and to go among their second choices.
So basically the leaving of AM was not prepared at all, meaning irl they didn't fire him, he quitted.

 

[Lola701]

They were no logic, as they did not prepared for a succession; they were no plan for replacements for Marco Bizarri and Alessandro Michele, but then they did not even get their 1st choices. They had introduced a CEO from the parent company but later had to add a CEO deputy, and for the CDs position they interviewed many people, who refused, and to go among their second choices.
So basically the leaving of AM was not prepared at all, meaning irl they didn't fire him, he quitted.

They forced him to leave…Which for me is almost the same.
Once you pull strings in order to disrupt a CD’s creative integrity, it’s terrible.

I think that Gucci should have negotiated to have a proper exit. They probably under-estimated the power of a farewell collection but I’m convinced that if he had a proper exit, sales wouldn’t have declined as hard.

 

[PDFSD]

I mean... It's yet another poor version of the Cartier "Amulette"...


View attachment 1265649
source: cartier.com

Pomellato Pom Pom Dot Necklace with pendant | Pomellato Online Boutique US

Shop Online with Free Shipping and Returns Pom Pom Dot Necklace with pendant. DIAMOND: The name derives from the Greek ‘adamas’, which means unbreakable or invincible, probably because of its excellent strength. Pomellato in its collection usually uses colorless, brown, black, grey and icy...

www.pomellato.com

 

[PDFSD]

I find the pool video very appropriate: Gucci is literally drowning...

they should have taken a boat like LV and hire pro´s for better production value even if simple and commercial

 

[yslforever]

Pomellato Pom Pom Dot Necklace with pendant | Pomellato Online Boutique US

Shop Online with Free Shipping and Returns Pom Pom Dot Necklace with pendant. DIAMOND: The name derives from the Greek ‘adamas’, which means unbreakable or invincible, probably because of its excellent strength. Pomellato in its collection usually uses colorless, brown, black, grey and icy...

www.pomellato.com

View attachment 1265992

Chopard does it too, but at least its heart shape
You'll notice like everyone is pushing mother-of-pearl and malachite as semi-precious in their entry level jewelry lines, but those cost actually zero - 10 € for 25 pieces - , and the micro diamants not much more.

 

[NYLA22]

They were no logic, as they did not prepared for a succession; they were no plan for replacements for Marco Bizarri and Alessandro Michele, but then they did not even get their 1st choices. They had introduced a CEO from the parent company but later had to add a CEO deputy, and for the CDs position they interviewed many people, who refused, and to go among their second choices.
So basically the leaving of AM was not prepared at all, meaning irl they didn't fire him, he quitted.

I'm just curious, what are some of the reasons a CD would refuse the Gucci job? Would it have mostly just been a matter of not having a high enough salary? (I imagine SDS' salary is maybe half of what Michele's was, which was surely 8 figures). Or was it that most people predicted what a potential nightmare it would have been?

 

[Lola701]

I'm just curious, what are some of the reasons a CD would refuse the Gucci job? Would it have mostly just been a matter of not having a high enough salary? (I imagine SDS' salary is maybe half of what Michele's was, which was surely 8 figures). Or was it that most people predicted what a potential nightmare it would have been?

Im sure @yslforever will add his take on this but the number of reasons is quite long. The pressure is one thing! Add to the pressure of taking such a big brand, the added factor of it financial difficulties. You are basically creating while being on an ejection seat.

The emotional weight is another factor. When a brand is doing bad, the mass does not think about the fact that it’s a collective fail. Usually, the designer has the weight of the failure (or the success)

Working for Gucci would also mean dealing with the constant intrusion of the suits. So, no real total creative freedom or at least, a fear of a lack…

Comfort is another reason. If the position involves moving to Milan, for some, it’s too much…Even more if the brand doesn’t accommodate those who don’t want to.

It’s a really big position to take and it can be an opportunity of a lifetime or a total mess. The parameters aren’t the same as they were 20 years ago.

I would love to know which names were considered.

And the salary doesn’t necessarily mean anything if you have a senior position at a fashion brand. You live comfortably anyway…

I’m not sure Alessandro exceeded 5M annually. He had already a top position at the brand that allowed him to live comfortably in Rome but he was a total unknown and his first collection was a pure gamble. He probably negotiated his first contract well but now with Valentino, he has the opportunity to exceed the 5M or things like that. But in those contracts, the most important thing is not even the salary itself but all the advantages they can take from it.

BOF mentioned that Hedi has a monthly 1M salary but that’s not the most interesting part of the contract. The fact that he photographs, oversees the stores and things like that are activities that are another plus. Then you can have the company cover your expenses and things like that.

 

[Olaffo]

The parameters aren’t the same as they were 20 years ago.

There are rumors that at least 7 - 10 people rejected the offer so absolutely agreed, being CD for such big name is no longer so pleasant. You can't hide any of your mistakes or paper over the cracks, your every single move is on TikTok (this annoying videos of creator "working with atelier", this finger pointing the details, this endless discussion about bag/shoes pairing etc.). It's not smooth sail these days having to put up with so much pressure and, I argue, a very limited if non existent, freedom of work. It's not LVMH or Hermes or Chanel. It's Kering where e-commerce is dictating shape of shoes for the show to use famous McQueen example...

 

[yslforever]

There are rumors that at least 7 - 10 people rejected the offer so absolutely agreed, being CD for such big name is no longer so pleasant. You can't hide any of your mistakes or paper over the cracks, your every single move is on TikTok (this annoying videos of creator "working with atelier", this finger pointing the details, this endless discussion about bag/shoes pairing etc.). It's not smooth sail these days having to put up with so much pressure and, I argue, a very limited if non existent, freedom of work. It's not LVMH or Hermes or Chanel. It's Kering where e-commerce is dictating shape of shoes for the show to use famous McQueen example...

I had recollected 6 names but that's what I heard too, 7 to 10... Idk who are the others.
To answer @NYLA22, they went above 10 millions for some + benefits and bonus for a couple of those prospects... real veterans of the industry, but to complete @Lola701, most of them were already under contracts and confortable where there are ... they didn't see why they would change to a less confortable solution.

Actually, idk if I can say it, someone from a storied couture house was on the list I saw, idk the reasons why he refused, maybe he felt confortable at this house, maybe too confortable by the look of it because he was let go very recently. The irony is that he proposed his studio number 2 for the job.

A much younger one was considered too, but he was starting at another historical Italian brand and thought he had to prove himself first at this brand before jumping to a much bigger one.

i said too much

 

[Creative]

^^and that’s how you know the merchandising team is in charge at Gucci.

Trust me - I’ve worked with fashion merchandizers before - they look at the market, “identify the competitors,” look at those brand’s top selling products, then go to their own internal design team and say “we need a necklace like this.”

Lmao, that’s exactly how it works😂

Who on a Earth would want to work at Kering? I think Sabato was smart. He will probably gain some millions… No one will ever call him again but he can invest 😂

 

[gallianostan]

Actually, idk if I can say it, someone from a storied couture house was on the list I saw, idk the reasons why he refused, maybe he felt confortable at this house, maybe too confortable by the look of it because he was let go very recently. The irony is that he proposed his studio number 2 for the job.

pier paolo? surely it has to be

also the younger guy.... daniel lee??? thank god that didn't work out

 

[Olaffo]

Actually, idk if I can say it, someone from a storied couture house was on the list I saw, idk the reasons why he refused, maybe he felt confortable at this house, maybe too confortable by the look of it because he was let go very recently. The irony is that he proposed his studio number 2 for the job.

A much younger one was considered too, but he was starting at another historical Italian brand and thought he had to prove himself first at this brand before jumping to a much bigger one.

Oh the list is delicious! We also need to add the wonderful magician who just recently left Prada...and one Argentinian guy who just debuted at another Italian fashion house. Then we have current CD of another Italian fashion brand (also young and talented) and then we have...

also the younger guy.... daniel lee??? thank god that didn't work out

I believe it is the current CD of Tods...

When I read Pinault's boasting about the CASTING they organised and that SdS beat all of the OTHER candidates as they we're not "seasoned yet" I'm laughing loud and clear.

 

[LadyJunon]

I had recollected 6 names but that's what I heard too, 7 to 10... Idk who are the others.
To answer @NYLA22, they went above 10 millions for some + benefits and bonus for a couple of those prospects... real veterans of the industry, but to complete @Lola701, most of them were already under contracts and confortable where there are ... they didn't see why they would change to a less confortable solution.

Actually, idk if I can say it, someone from a storied couture house was on the list I saw, idk the reasons why he refused, maybe he felt confortable at this house, maybe too confortable by the look of it because he was let go very recently. The irony is that he proposed his studio number 2 for the job.

A much younger one was considered too, but he was starting at another historical Italian brand and thought he had to prove himself first at this brand before jumping to a much bigger one.

i said too much

Oh the list is delicious! We also need to add the wonderful magician who just recently left Prada...and one Argentinian guy who just debuted at another Italian fashion house. Then we have current CD of another Italian fashion brand (also young and talented) and then we have...



I believe it is the current CD of Tods...

When I read Pinault's boasting about the CASTING they organised and that SdS beat all of the OTHER candidates as they we're not "seasoned yet" I'm laughing loud and clear.

We need that list.

 

[Lola701]

Oh the list is delicious! We also need to add the wonderful magician who just recently left Prada...

Any clue on where the magician would head to? Fendi? Can we pray? Or Alaïa? That would wonderful too….If he left to still pursue a career in fashion of course.

 

[yslforever]

Oh the list is delicious! We also need to add the wonderful magician who just recently left Prada...and one Argentinian guy who just debuted at another Italian fashion house. Then we have current CD of another Italian fashion brand (also young and talented) and then we have...



I believe it is the current CD of Tods...

When I read Pinault's boasting about the CASTING they organised and that SdS beat all of the OTHER candidates as they we're not "seasoned yet" I'm laughing loud and clear.

so they approached both the CDs of Ferragamo and of Tod's ?
lol, that the direct competitors of Gucci now

 

[Olaffo]

Any clue on where the magician would head to? Fendi? Can we pray? Or Alaïa? That would wonderful too….If he left to still pursue a career in fashion of course.

All I know is that he disappeared after last Prada show and god knows when or if he’ll be back. He has been on Prada’s paycheck for long enough to have a decent holidays and pursue neglected passions / plans. I think he’d do wonders in pretty much most of the Italian houses giving his talent, knowledge and experience but him at Fendi would indeed be a dream.

so they approached both the CDs of Ferragamo and of Tod's ?
lol, that the direct competitors of Gucci now

Yes and I kind of understand them - snatching competitor’s CD would weaken the brand and provide you with fresh understanding of their aesthetics. It’s always tricky to hire studio directors: they can be either a success (Tod’s case) or a flop (Gucci’s case). This „CD espionage” is c*nty but corporations have been doing it for years with c suit people etc. And now Kering is treating CD as „chief creative officer”, blah.

 

[fenty]

cpp-luxury.com

April 27, 2024
GUCCi debuts a campaign showcasing the newest additions to its Gucci Interlocking fine jewelry collection.

The latest designs present a modern interpretation of the iconic Interlocking G motif, prominently placed within a circular charm adorned with exquisite gemstones. The mood of the campaign exudes a sense of timeless beauty and sophistication, where the colored gemstones create a striking contrast against the jewelry setting.

Abstract elements of the Interlocking G logo act as a refined framework and highlight the new designs’ complex craftsmanship and balanced aesthetic.
The collection comprises three different sets of jewelry, each spotlighting a different gemstone: onyx, green agate or mother-of-pearl.
While the deep allure of black onyx is elegantly contrasted with yellow gold, the green agate is set playfully against pink gold.
A third sumptuous version, crafted in mother-of-pearl, is combined with pink gold and peppered with diamond pavé on the central motif.

Each set features two rings, available either with a 12mm or 17mm disc charm, along with a bracelet, a choice between delicate paired studs or hoop earrings with a pendant, and a necklace featuring a 12mm ornament. Two statement necklaces with larger 27mm medallions, available in onyx and mother-of-pearl, complete the selection.

The Interlocking G has been a significant motif for the House since the 1960s. Designed as a tribute to the House’s founder, Guccio Gucci, it represents luxury, quality, and Italian craftsmanship

Gucci Interlocking fine jewelry

I'm looking for the fine jewelry ..

 

[Phuel]

The parameters aren’t the same as they were 20 years ago.

…That’s an understatement LOL CDs of these mega-corporate brands have to possess the taste of Walmart, while suckering Walmart shoppers to pay for their offensively overpriced fastfashions.

And Gucci is the Walmart of high fashion now. But Walmart’s American CD is actually a stronger talent than Sabato. By leagues.

 

[disco54]

Gucci is officially a train head towards a cliff lol , I passed by the Gucci boutique again today, empty , Sabato is done , those tacky pendants embody that. I only see hoodrats rocking that

 

[tourbillions]

Lanvin and givenchy are waving... possibly welcoming their new friend Gucci