jeanclaude
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Pre-fall? More like Pre-f*cked!
Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci
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jeanclaude
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Gucci.com
Bankruptcy is in the air...
GivenchyHomme
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I’m shocked and disgusted with all of the new logo clad merchandise. We knew there would be an adjustment period, but none of use were expecting it to happen quite like this. The brand is all over the place, there is no direction. Who is steering this sinking ship?
Lola701
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Isn’t it stuff from the studio collections?
Gucci.com
Bankruptcy is in the air...
NakedAndAfraid
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I think you are just blocked by him. I'm sure this loss will haunt you lol. My condolences. 💐
tourbillions
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gucci target or primark exclusive
yslforever
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I really wasn't that mean... I just said H&M and Inditex design offices can deliver more (without the thousands of hours of embroideries of course) ...
ecnerretneerg
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That candy land Gucci logo tote is abysmal…
I looked on the site recently and they aren’t even pushing Ancora. You really have to scroll to find any rtw 😂
I looked on the site recently and they aren’t even pushing Ancora. You really have to scroll to find any rtw 😂
plentyofhorns
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plentyofhorns
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I truly don’t understand what they meant by “brand elevation.” If you look at “gucci lido”, the first section on their website, 99% of the products have logos. Where is the “quiet luxury”????
Lola701
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Ahaha no thank you. I’ll pass on that. I know I can find something as good and without a logo at a local market lol.
TBH, Ancora’s time has passed.
I just looked at their website and they already pushing the summer capsule (with swimsuits and awful logos) and in one month, Prefall will be in stores.
I think they will try to extend the life of Ancora a little bit through the summer because the menswear will land in stores…
That’s why it is essential to have a strong first show! You have good pre-orders, a hype that is build and then when it hits the stores, clients comes to buy the products. And unfortunately, we can’t say they had that!
Frederic01
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There is an article on the Financial Times about Gucci if anyone has access!
ft.com/content/086edec3-3a39-4205-91e6-16066381f6af/
PDFSD
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A top Kering executive has said the French luxury group is going back to basics as it is battling to revive the fortunes of its underperforming flagship brand Gucci.
Speaking at the Financial Times’ Business of Luxury conference on Monday, Kering deputy chief executive Francesca Bellettini said that Gucci needed to build “sound foundations” after a period of fast growth that was now coming to an end.“What we are going to do at Kering, [and] at all the brands learning from Gucci, is to become more focused — even while growing — on the foundation,” Bellettini told the conference.
“It is true in life but also in business that sometimes it’s easier to go fast, fast, fast . . . If I draw a parallel to the luxury industry, if you don’t create that structure underneath in terms of operational capability, efficiency practices, planning you don’t have [a] sound foundation,” she said.The Kering veteran was referring to a period of rapid growth at its brands led by Gucci, but that has now tapered and left fissures in the business exposed.
Belletini was appointed to her role last year to oversee all of the group’s brands — which include Bottega Veneta, McQueen and Balenciaga — as part of a reshuffle at the top of the group led by billionaire chief executive François-Henri Pinault.Paris-listed Kering has been dogged by the underperformance of Gucci, which accounts for half of group sales and two-thirds of profits.
Belletini, who has been at the French group for more than two decades, also remains chief executive of Saint Laurent, the group’s second-biggest brand by revenues.Kering is focused on turning around Gucci and improving performance across the group amid an industry-wide slowdown. It has suffered more than competitors such as LVMH and Hermès, as demand for Gucci’s maximalist aesthetic popularised by former star designer Alessandro Michele waned.
Kering’s sales fell 10 per cent in the first quarter, compared to 3 per cent growth at industry giant LVMH. Paris-listed rival Hermès posted 17 per cent growth in revenues. Pinault is now betting on Gucci’s new creative director Sabato de Sarno, whose collections are being rolled out in stores, to revive growth.“Don’t waste the opportunity coming from a good crisis, because in a crisis you really have to focus on what you can control. That has been my motto with my team all of my career,” Belletini said.“We had already started by February . . . to work on enhancing the brand’s attractivity, working on exclusivity of the brand, the quality and the efficiency,” she said.
This included making crucial hires in the team around Gucci. A new head of operations is focusing on initiatives such as reducing lead times to get leather goods to market.“It’s not going to be a one man show at Gucci . . . We are going through a transition, not a revolution.”Belletini believes De Sarno, the first “outsider” to be appointed as Gucci creative director, can bring fresh perspective on how to rebuild the brand.
By always promoting creative directors internally “you can build ways of working that are not always right for the future”, she said.
PDFSD
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FT
MARCH 23 2024
A storm rolled over Milan as Sabato de Sarno’s big debut for Gucci took place, thwarting plans to use the city’s streets to present his new vision to the world. Last September’s event was the most hotly anticipated of the year after the designer was plucked from near obscurity by French luxury group Kering to reimagine its struggling flagship following the departure of former star designer Alessandro Michele.
The stakes were high, the prospect of being judged harshly even higher. “The climax does not come right away, it is sometimes the second or third shows that are the most important,” Kering’s billionaire chief executive François-Henri Pinault told reporters as Julia Roberts took her seat in the front row behind him.“I mean I would be, like, sh*tting myself,” Mark Ronson, the award-winning music producer and De Sarno collaborator, said in a recent Gucci-sponsored documentary on the designer.Barely six months later, the pressure on the public face of Gucci’s turnaround has only increased.
This week Kering, which also owns Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga, issued a rare profit warning for the luxury sector. Shares plummeted, bringing declines over the past year to more than 35 per cent. As ever at Kering, Gucci — which, with €10bn in revenue last year, accounted for half of group sales and two-thirds of profits — is at the centre of the problem.
The parent company said it expected Gucci sales to have fallen about 20 per cent in the first three months of the year driven by declines in China, its most important market.De Sarno, 40, bears little responsibility for this: product from his first collection only started arriving in stores in the second half of February.
But Kering’s deteriorating performance in recent years while competitors such as LVMH, Hermes and Richemont had record growth shows how crucial it is that Gucci starts working again. “Kering is Gucci, and Gucci is Kering . . . The problem is there is a very big dependence and perhaps over-dependence on Gucci,” said a person close to the group.
Pinault has said that he thinks Gucci can grow to be a brand with €15bn in annual sales in the medium term, even as he acknowledged it was underperforming peers. But it raises questions about why it took Kering so long to act after it became clear that Michele’s maximalist, bohemian vision was no longer working.
De Sarno’s rise has been so precipitous that the Gucci documentary is entitled Who is Sabato de Sarno?. Growing up in Cicciano, outside Naples, his interest in fashion led him to study design at Milan’s Istituto Secoli — a school he selected for its emphasis on technical skills as well as creative process, according to people who know him. He then worked his way up the ranks at Prada and Dolce & Gabbana before spending 14 years at Valentino, where he rose to become outgoing creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli’s right hand. In November 2022, before Michele’s exit had been made public, De Sarno was brought into Kering to interview for an unspecified position.
His appointment was announced in January 2023. At his leaving party, the Valentino team wore shirts emblazoned with “I [heart] SDS”. “I was not born a creative director. I was an assistant director. Assistant. Assistant’s assistant’s assistant. I know the process,” De Sarno has said. The decision to pick an unknown surprised many, but it has precedent.
Michele was not a big name before he took the reins in 2015. A lower-profile designer may also fit with Kering’s desire to present a sleeker, more pared back Gucci. “It’s pretty clear he was put in that role to execute Kering’s plan . . . and he has executed it. His pieces speak to a broader range of luxury consumers, older women too,” said an industry insider in Milan. “But it’s not an exciting product.”Described by those who know him as a workaholic who likes to get involved in the details, De Sarno has also demonstrated a canniness for building on a theme. He dubbed his first collection Ancora, which in Italian can mean “still”, “more” and “again”, alluding to the desire to renew Gucci. “I loved the passion behind this word,” he said, so much so that he got it tattooed on his arm.
His collections have been threaded through with a shade of carmine red which De Sarno found in the lining of one of the house’s classic “Jackie” bags. Shoes, bags and clothing have been produced to match, as have magazine pages and billboards. He also had the hall outside his office painted “Ancora” red.And while De Sarno can speak in the diaphanous language of design (“My show is about shape, volume, fabric, right choice, right colour”), he also shows a shrewd understanding of the business. “Sabato started from a very simple thing: rather than build a collection and then put accessories on it, I want to build the collection around accessories,” creative director Riccardo Zanola, who worked on his first collection, says in the documentary. Accessories are the backbone of most luxury businesses, and Gucci is no exception: more than two-thirds of its revenues last year came from leather goods and shoes.
And while critical reception has been mixed, the small amount of De Sarno’s work that has hit stores has been well received. “Our top customers liked the product and asked for it,” said Micheal Kliger, chief executive of luxury ecommerce retailer MyTheresa.
But whether it is enough to pull Gucci, and Kering, out of the doldrums remains to be seen. “He can do a great job, he just needs to be given time . . . you won’t see the effect on sales for a while,” said Domenico de Sole, Gucci’s former chief executive. Backstage at his debut, producers shouted final instructions as the lights faded to black. “OK, finally,” De Sarno intoned, as his show began.
Sabato de Sarno, the designer who must turn around Gucci
As the Kering flagship struggles, one man has become the public face of making it work
MARCH 23 2024
A storm rolled over Milan as Sabato de Sarno’s big debut for Gucci took place, thwarting plans to use the city’s streets to present his new vision to the world. Last September’s event was the most hotly anticipated of the year after the designer was plucked from near obscurity by French luxury group Kering to reimagine its struggling flagship following the departure of former star designer Alessandro Michele.
The stakes were high, the prospect of being judged harshly even higher. “The climax does not come right away, it is sometimes the second or third shows that are the most important,” Kering’s billionaire chief executive François-Henri Pinault told reporters as Julia Roberts took her seat in the front row behind him.“I mean I would be, like, sh*tting myself,” Mark Ronson, the award-winning music producer and De Sarno collaborator, said in a recent Gucci-sponsored documentary on the designer.Barely six months later, the pressure on the public face of Gucci’s turnaround has only increased.
This week Kering, which also owns Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga, issued a rare profit warning for the luxury sector. Shares plummeted, bringing declines over the past year to more than 35 per cent. As ever at Kering, Gucci — which, with €10bn in revenue last year, accounted for half of group sales and two-thirds of profits — is at the centre of the problem.
The parent company said it expected Gucci sales to have fallen about 20 per cent in the first three months of the year driven by declines in China, its most important market.De Sarno, 40, bears little responsibility for this: product from his first collection only started arriving in stores in the second half of February.
But Kering’s deteriorating performance in recent years while competitors such as LVMH, Hermes and Richemont had record growth shows how crucial it is that Gucci starts working again. “Kering is Gucci, and Gucci is Kering . . . The problem is there is a very big dependence and perhaps over-dependence on Gucci,” said a person close to the group.
Pinault has said that he thinks Gucci can grow to be a brand with €15bn in annual sales in the medium term, even as he acknowledged it was underperforming peers. But it raises questions about why it took Kering so long to act after it became clear that Michele’s maximalist, bohemian vision was no longer working.
De Sarno’s rise has been so precipitous that the Gucci documentary is entitled Who is Sabato de Sarno?. Growing up in Cicciano, outside Naples, his interest in fashion led him to study design at Milan’s Istituto Secoli — a school he selected for its emphasis on technical skills as well as creative process, according to people who know him. He then worked his way up the ranks at Prada and Dolce & Gabbana before spending 14 years at Valentino, where he rose to become outgoing creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli’s right hand. In November 2022, before Michele’s exit had been made public, De Sarno was brought into Kering to interview for an unspecified position.
His appointment was announced in January 2023. At his leaving party, the Valentino team wore shirts emblazoned with “I [heart] SDS”. “I was not born a creative director. I was an assistant director. Assistant. Assistant’s assistant’s assistant. I know the process,” De Sarno has said. The decision to pick an unknown surprised many, but it has precedent.
Michele was not a big name before he took the reins in 2015. A lower-profile designer may also fit with Kering’s desire to present a sleeker, more pared back Gucci. “It’s pretty clear he was put in that role to execute Kering’s plan . . . and he has executed it. His pieces speak to a broader range of luxury consumers, older women too,” said an industry insider in Milan. “But it’s not an exciting product.”Described by those who know him as a workaholic who likes to get involved in the details, De Sarno has also demonstrated a canniness for building on a theme. He dubbed his first collection Ancora, which in Italian can mean “still”, “more” and “again”, alluding to the desire to renew Gucci. “I loved the passion behind this word,” he said, so much so that he got it tattooed on his arm.
His collections have been threaded through with a shade of carmine red which De Sarno found in the lining of one of the house’s classic “Jackie” bags. Shoes, bags and clothing have been produced to match, as have magazine pages and billboards. He also had the hall outside his office painted “Ancora” red.And while De Sarno can speak in the diaphanous language of design (“My show is about shape, volume, fabric, right choice, right colour”), he also shows a shrewd understanding of the business. “Sabato started from a very simple thing: rather than build a collection and then put accessories on it, I want to build the collection around accessories,” creative director Riccardo Zanola, who worked on his first collection, says in the documentary. Accessories are the backbone of most luxury businesses, and Gucci is no exception: more than two-thirds of its revenues last year came from leather goods and shoes.
And while critical reception has been mixed, the small amount of De Sarno’s work that has hit stores has been well received. “Our top customers liked the product and asked for it,” said Micheal Kliger, chief executive of luxury ecommerce retailer MyTheresa.
But whether it is enough to pull Gucci, and Kering, out of the doldrums remains to be seen. “He can do a great job, he just needs to be given time . . . you won’t see the effect on sales for a while,” said Domenico de Sole, Gucci’s former chief executive. Backstage at his debut, producers shouted final instructions as the lights faded to black. “OK, finally,” De Sarno intoned, as his show began.
jeanclaude
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It´s part of the "Lido" collection
jeanclaude
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The only truth this guy has said so far!!
TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu
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You can view Sabato as Luke & Lucie Meier at Dior
Or Alessandra Facchinetti at Gucci and Valentino
A place holder, a palate cleanser for the next great thing to arrive
He is the sip of water between meals LOL
jeanclaude
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He is more like an enema to me...
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