Phoebe Philo F/W 2023.24

[ecnerretneerg]

Personally, I don't like the logotype and the font that's been used. But I think that's been a clearly deliberate choice on her part. The jarring shade of red, the stacked lines in the logotype... I think it all signals an attempt at a subversion of the visual codes of luxury fashion.

May I ask why do you love the logo and choice of typeface?

I’m not sure honestly. But when I saw the teaser images, I felt the logo and font fit the vibe of her brand well. I don’t like how it looks on the mobile site though.

I believe she’ll make the logo all one line eventually

 

[ecnerretneerg]

The visuals seems to be a mix of Talia Chetrit and Tyrone Lebon.

I guessed Brianna Capozzi and also Tyrone Lebon

 

[fizfizfiz]

The visuals seems to be a mix of Talia Chetrit and Tyrone Lebon.

Honestly, I don't know. : )

I'm simply referring to the information given by Models.com.

 

[jeanclaude]

The chenille knit tops were great. They really made me appreciate the merchandising skillset Philo has.

https://www.phoebephilo.com/en_us/high-neck-chenille-sweatshirt-black-technical-polyester

https://www.phoebephilo.com/en_us/leggings-black-shiny-polyamide

@jeanclaude How can you hate the leggings!?! Truly luxe! One of my favorite pieces from the collection outside of the obviously beautiful outerwear.

I can´t stand leggins...too late 80s early 90s for my taste (fashion bad memories). And don´t ask me about that hideous MUMUMUM necklace, it feels more like WTFWTFWTF to me (plus those golden letters remind me too much of Moschino).

 

[Overindulgence]

The visuals seems to be a mix of Talia Chetrit and Tyrone Lebon.

The images of Sharon Ganish (which is a great casting choice) with the black background look like they were by Tyrone Lebon. Some photos also look Juergen Teller-ish.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The textures are truly gorgeous. The hand combed embroidery and frays are so sumptuous and rather abject, particularly in the fluro red and deep berry twill dress (which I love... and isn't sold out). A tinge of Alber Elbaz' Lanvin with it, which I appreciate a lot. That tassled bomber is gorgeous too. Want, if not need it but can not muster the finances for it.

There are a lot of trailing things and flaps of fabrics in this that I think can go away, like the zip up pants. Great as a creative exploration but in reality I don't see it being fun or nice to wear. They would end up pissing me off by the end of the day. The jewellery I don't care for and the shoes are what they are. Celiné-esque but makes sense because they're not so in your face, but they do teeter into generic. The leggings are leggings. A lot of brands are doing them as they are having bit of a moment again so I get why they're there.

I'm in the boat of liking the brand logo. It is pretty wrong, but I love it for that. We've reached a severe sans-serification of brands with the blocky logos that all look the same it's nice to see Phoebe do something so punchy. A smart move too. Even if you're not buying, you're talking about it.

Frankly, I am more intrigued by it than I thought. The visuals work, the clothes look good and genuine, and there's a lot of classic timeless pieces that transcend the trend zeitgeist.

 

[LadyJunon]

Maybe…
For me, Phoebe’s work has always been different because it was beyond the prism of minimalism. She made prints, wild associations, mixed prints, never shied away from prettiness or even sensuality. It’s. It just big shapes with pockets.

I think if you go to various The Row threads, I’ve always had some kind of problem with that « loungewear » aesthetic. The Row is fabulous to look at but always felt detached for me compared to Max Mara or even Joseph.

I think I have kind of consensual taste when it comes to HF. But I really subscribe to the creative intention. And that’s what sets Philo apart from all the people who copied her. Yes she uses a lot of references but there’s a creative intention behind. A wardrobe composed of basics of so quote « good taste » is my ultimate fear.

I think that what I hate about the idea of the Philophiles and that lineup of brands that are supposed to « fill the void » is that monolith in terms of taste. I don’t think that having a wardrobe of Jil Sander, Celine, Margiela, Lemaire, The Row is that aspirational.

This is why I often find myself at odds with most Philophiles and most fashion minimalists. They have this slightly elitist mindset with their obsession with being the epitome their quiet narrow and homogeneous idea of "good taste", when Philo's work was often everything but. This extends to Margiela and Jil Sander too.

Philo is almost like Miuccia with how she explores and plays with the concept of womanhood. Her approach may be intellectual, but she often plays with concepts and themes that one might consider "basal", "savage" or even "frivolous" such as feminine beauty, female sexuality, nature, life and death.

Of course, we seldom hear about that very relevant side of her work. I feel that it's a common occurrence for fashion journalists to strip female designers of their artistic or conceptual integrity. Outside of Schiaparelli, Kawakubo and Miuccia, it's always the same reductive "She was a woman designing for women." praise their predecessors get.

 

[tctra]

Some of the imagery looks vulgar, and not in a sexy way

 

[90sFan]

I like the clothes… some of it is good, but a lot of it feels dates.. but we cant blame her, thats what she does. Not her fault so many copycats after her such as Jil Sander guys, Peter Do, Proenza (copy/paste), Khaite etc
I managed to buy a few pieces so excited for the delivery.
The visuals not crazy about… Didnt succeed to be non-fashion yet its not fashion enough.. stuck somewhere in between which is the worst.
But hey, theres always the next season!

 

[dancv]

I understand that she is clearly picking up from where she left off, but this collection feels so dated. Obviously her loyal customers will buy it and of course it was going to be a success but I’m not 100% on board yet. What I do love thought was the sexed up route she took and the jewellery pieces not included the “mum” necklace which is disgusting. She should fire whoever told her leggings were a good idea.
I do have better hopes for the next collection.

 

[Thefrenchy]

Honestly, I don't know.

I jumped on the website right when it opened, scrolled down more interested in how they shot it than in the pieces, sat with it a lot, went back to look at it a million times over the past few days.

Some pieces were tempting but nothing seduced me enough to make me purchase it. The cargo trousers were great, then I found out they were viscose silk and theres no way in hell I want to wear fluid silk cargos in the middle of winter... Trench coats were nice but I didn't like them when they were belted... There are some pretty outstanding trousers in the lookbook so I'll wait for those to show up. Also very random because I usually give zero attention to that but some super nice belts that were not for sale yet.

I'll wait for the next drop which I guess should arrive in December.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

Not exactly sure what this is but I love it. Can’t wait to see her future drops

 

[90sFan]

Honestly, I don't know. : )

I'm simply referring to the information given by Models.com.

Yes, the visuals are by Talia Chetrit (the drab lookbook looking ones). The more fun ones are by Tyrone Lebon. But overall disappointing:-(

 

[Scotty]

How did anybody buy those bags at those prices? I've seen that they're already sold out.

 

[fizfizfiz]

Yes, the visuals are by Talia Chetrit (the drab lookbook looking ones). The more fun ones are by Tyrone Lebon. But overall disappointing:-(

May I ask how you're able to distinguish the ones taken by from Chetrit from the ones taken by by Lebon?
Are their names somehow tagged in the data contained in the .jpg file?

 

[disco54]

Yes overall the vibe of the visuals are very late 70s/early 80s grindhouse/snuff film

 

[Turnip Rutabaga]

This is why I often find myself at odds with most Philophiles and most fashion minimalists. They have this slightly elitist mindset with their obsession with being the epitome their quiet narrow and homogeneous idea of "good taste", when Philo's work was often everything but. This extends to Margiela and Jil Sander too.

Philo is almost like Miuccia with how she explores and plays with the concept of womanhood. Her approach may be intellectual, but she often plays with concepts and themes that one might consider "basal", "savage" or even "frivolous" such as feminine beauty, female sexuality, nature, life and death.

Of course, we seldom hear about that very relevant side of her work. I feel that it's a common occurrence for fashion journalists to strip female designers of their artistic or conceptual integrity. Outside of Schiaparelli, Kawakubo and Miuccia, it's always the same reductive "She was a woman designing for women." praise their predecessors get.

I think this collection offers to both minimalist Philophiles and the ones who like more stranger things in fashion. At this point, it's a good strategy to get her permanent customer base. Some may like her simple bags and basic shirts while other like the back zipper trousers and fuzzy pieces.

Personally, I prefer the weirdness over simplicity; there are so many minimalist brands in every price bracket these days allready. One can get that stealth wealth look from H&M, nobody knows the difference.

 

[TianCouture]

Can't say I like this, and I find the black website incredibly cheap. Can someone explain the "MUM" necklace? Is it like a British thing. I need it means mother or mom but I just don't understand how or why it's sold out.

 

[tricotineacetat]

This is why I often find myself at odds with most Philophiles and most fashion minimalists. They have this slightly elitist mindset with their obsession with being the epitome their quiet narrow and homogeneous idea of "good taste", when Philo's work was often everything but. This extends to Margiela and Jil Sander too.

Philo is almost like Miuccia with how she explores and plays with the concept of womanhood. Her approach may be intellectual, but she often plays with concepts and themes that one might consider "basal", "savage" or even "frivolous" such as feminine beauty, female sexuality, nature, life and death.

Of course, we seldom hear about that very relevant side of her work. I feel that it's a common occurrence for fashion journalists to strip female designers of their artistic or conceptual integrity. Outside of Schiaparelli, Kawakubo and Miuccia, it's always the same reductive "She was a woman designing for women." praise their predecessors get.

Not sure if this accounts to your average Phoebe Philo-era Celine customer, but if I'd have to make a comparison with those of, say, the Japanese, The Belgians, Helmut Lang or Jil Sander, it's that their interest in fashion is more on the periphery and that they usually don't take part in the conversations or look at the designers that are usually in focus among editors and other followers of fashion. Others may just as well make fashion purchases based on pragmatic needs in which case an audacious, daring, fashion-forward piece with little usage in their daily lives may be frivolous in a times when money for such luxury goods is hard earned - Hell, if I was gonna spend *that* money on clothing, I would probably go for an investment purchase and not for a piece that you can only wear for special occasions or in limited combinations - It would probably be that perfect, versatile black ankle boot that gives every outfit an instant update or that flawlessly tailored chesterfield coat before purchasing a cream viscose crepe dress with a diagonal hemline that's so short it barely covers one thigh just to trail almost to the floor on the other.

 

[Lola701]

Not sure if this accounts to your average Phoebe Philo-era Celine customer, but if I'd have to make a comparison with those of, say, the Japanese, The Belgians, Helmut Lang or Jil Sander, it's that their interest in fashion is more on the periphery and that they usually don't take part in the conversations or look at the designers that are usually in focus among editors and other followers of fashion. Others may just as well make fashion purchases based on pragmatic needs in which case an audacious, daring, fashion-forward piece with little usage in their daily lives may be frivolous in a times when money for such luxury goods is hard earned - Hell, if I was gonna spend *that* money on clothing, I would probably go for an investment purchase and not for a piece that you can only wear for special occasions or in limited combinations - It would probably be that perfect, versatile black ankle boot that gives every outfit an instant update or that flawlessly tailored chesterfield coat before purchasing a cream viscose crepe dress with a diagonal hemline that's so short it barely covers one thigh just to trail almost to the floor on the other.

I would secretly wear that asymetric Margiela inspired cream dress. Styled with the pants like on the website, it can be a fun take on eveningwear…
But like the red dress, it’s so specific that it wouldn’t allow a lot of wears.