Chanel Cruise 2022 Les Baux-de-Provence

[tourbillions]

^The problem with Burton is that she's not Lee, her aesthetic is much softer and commercial. It creates a clash, because people expect something dark and raw from McQueen yet they won't get it, even if Sarah usually recreates pieces from the archives. However, her clothes are always perfectly made, no matter how complicated they are.

Who are these people still expecting that from Mcqueen 10 years later after his death? Probably the ones still stuck in Plato's Atlantis. Thought this days Mcqueen's women expect well-tailored, strong, feminine, and duchess worthy pieces.

As for Chanel... Watch Demna try to take over the position.

 

[thismortalcoil]

Olivier Theyskens for Chanel

 

[missbluejean]

There are some wonderful individual pieces I guess but echoing everyone's observation of how ill-fitting most, if not all, of these looks are. How did she manage to make everyone look short and stout? I could see clearly why that Bruno guy is mad at Saint Laurent doing way better

I, too, want Phoebe for Chanel.. (or maybe I just miss Phoebe and I badly want her to come back at any brand)

 

[Phuel]

I think somehow it all comes to the ever debate between fashion and clothes.
MGC and Virginie designs clothes...In the most dry way possible. Fashion is more accessible than it has been ever before. People buy from designers products they could buy in the fast fashion or contemporary. And suddenly, for the masses, being fashionable looks more like a fabulous exercise of branding than a real expression of their style or personality.
We see it today in a different way with the obsession over the Birkin and Kelly bags. Growing up, those bags really represented a certain type of ladies: older, bourgeoise, conservative or business women in circles of power. Today, the bag means "I'm rich". So, you have women in fashionova carrying Birkin...The bag is totally detached from it lifestyle.
Why would you want the best quality for your bag and at the same time the worst quality for your clothes?

The level of requirement people have from designers clothes today has completely decreased.

Louis Vuitton menswear is selling like crazy. Why? Simply because they have found the most ingenious ways to put the monogram in every category of products: printed on a shirt, embossed on a suit, embroidered on a sweater...

Today long are gone the days where brands only cared about selling perfumes and accessories. For brands like Chanel, Dior or Vuitton, the bags in some cases costs more than RTW. When LVMH stopped the « J’adore Dior » era of Galliano, they stopped the production of those entry-priced level products. They only came back with MGC. At Chanel, they have always proposed a small sportswear offering...But it wasn’t advertised and it was mostly part of the commercial or precollections...

This is applicable to every component of the industry now— from designers, to photographers, models, stylists, to editors/CDs/ADs. Fabled and renowned labels Chanel/Dior/Gucci were all once high fashion designs— not just mere department-store/fast-fashion fodder; just like Vogue was once high fashion presentation of an unapologetically exclusive dreamworld— not a flyer/catalogue featuring relatable everyday people in their everyday lives; and photographers created this euphoric escapism that the readers were once sophisticated enough to know were just mere illusions. But these illusions inspired and aspired us to be better than we are. Now… there’s nothing to aspire to cuz apparently inspiration is offensive if it doesn’t directly represent everyday people LOL

I’d never thought I’d live to see the day when the industry is plagued with the brand of juvenile and amateur designer/aesthetic that I experienced back in 2008 on ModelMayhem… LOOOOOOL…

As for Chanel... Watch Demna try to take over the position.

You jest— but Demna could very well be that dark horse to breathe new life to Chanel… He’s shown he’s absolutely capable of fresh and exciting creative vision, along with the technical skills for cut and construction when he debuted with both Vetements/Balenciaga. I doubt Chanel would tolerate this Gucci/Balenciaga/JW Anderson silliness, and he would need to resort back to his actual creative talent/experienced technical skills. And with a reigned-in dose of his trademark trolling (Karl always did inject a subtle dose of tacky/gaudiness to his Chanel anyway)— Demna is the only true talent of this era's overhyped lessers.

 

[jeanclaude]

I think the only designer able to modernize this brand is Phoebe Philo. She is the one having most in common with Coco.

 

[cul8tr]

I have one serious question. Does Virginie has only one pair od pants? She wears them during all her shows ... asking for a friends

 

[TaylorBinque]

Get Phoebe here ASAP. I can't find a single nice look in the collection. It's like she knows where she wants to go but always failed to drive there. Those dresses, poor models. I'm expecting to see Margot Robbie looking as boring as ever in Chanel.

 

[Creative]

I think you guys are exaggerating a little bit? I mean, it's not a master piece, it's not a great collection either, but I do think it's more or less at the same level Chanel's been these past 5/6 years (and I totally adore Karl...).

 

[Lola701]

I think you guys are exaggerating a little bit? I mean, it's not a master piece, it's not a great collection either, but I do think it's more or less at the same level Chanel's been these past 5/6 years (and I totally adore Karl...).

Welcome back my dear...
I think Paris Rome, which is slightly similar in terms of aesthetic was much much more elevated than this.
I know for some people the sets was the only thing worthy at Chanel for the last 5 years but the clothes were much more superior in terms of design, cut or even finishing.
And I’m talking about the runway...

Because the boutiques collections Virginie designed were maybe less logo-Ed but they had the same vain.

 

[bc collector]

I think the only designer able to modernize this brand is Phoebe Philo. She is the one having most in common with Coco.

I'm with you on this. More than any other name from the golden age of couture, we know Coco was also a very shrewd marketer of her own image and style, which was all about being a modern woman: who better than Phoebe can translate that message for now?

Also, IMO, the only other viable name for the role, Alber Elbaz, is unfortunately gone out of the picture for good.

Nicolas? Maybe. I'd be glad to see him dealing with couture and real clothes again, instead of creating product to accessorize the accessories at Vuitton.

Hedi? I think we have covered the subject in a recent Celine thread already. How can some of you guys still believe that he can pull any new trick from his old hat is a mystery to me. Plus, the Chanel job requires a real techician, not just a image maker, and Hedi is definitely not that.

As for Demna, let's first see what he will come up with in July, with his first couture collection, and hold our judgement in the meantime. Instinctively, I would say his taste (or lack thereof) is quite incompatible with the aesthetic of Chanel. Subtlety is not his job. And we are all seeing with Viard's debacle how precise an eye you need to have to confront yourself with the legacy of both Coco and Karl. Plus, his design vocabulary, which is all contained in his first three RTW collections for Balenciaga, has never really evolved since. He seems to be vary happy with his all over logo oversize hoodies, and the suits with him: let's not give him the chance to annihilate another heritage house.

 

[rip_ian curtis]

I have a feeling that Phoebe would not be interested in Chanel. The concept, maybe yes, but not the house classics. None of the Philo-devotees I know care for Chanel, tweed jackets, camellias, pearls etc. And those are things you would need to work with and reinvent there every season, not just once to have fun and experiment like she could have done at Celine.

 

[Lola701]

As for Demna, let's first see what he will come up with in July, with his first couture collection, and hold our judgement in the meantime. Instinctively, I would say his taste (or lack thereof) is quite incompatible with the aesthetic of Chanel. Subtlety is not his job. And we are all seeing with Viard's debacle how precise an eye you need to have to confront yourself with the legacy of both Coco and Karl. Plus, his design vocabulary, which is all contained in his first three RTW collections for Balenciaga, has never really evolved since. He seems to be vary happy with his all over logo oversize hoodies, and the suits with him: let's not give him the chance to annihilate another heritage house.

I have a feeling that Phoebe would not be interested in Chanel. The concept, maybe yes, but not the house classics. None of the Philo-devotees I know care for Chanel, tweed jackets, camellias, pearls etc. And those are things you would need to work with and reinvent there every season, not just once to have fun and experiment like she could have done at Celine.

Considering tha Karl was chosen because precisely he never tried to copy Chanel prior to him actually doing it, the perspective of Demna or Phoebe is not ridiculous...

The magic of Karl was that he brought a new clientele and kept the existing one.

I mean, I would not classify myself as a Philo devotee but I think those women bought clothes elsewhere before Celine.

This is also the mark of a good designer...Being able to reinvent himself. I think now of Gaultier who, in his extensive career has always renewed his clientele. I’m sure the clientele of his RTW was different from the Couture ladies...The same clients who followed him at Hermès. And today, through the Vintage market, he touch maybe a 4th generation of people.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Also a big factor in what I was thinking about was that whoever does take over, whether that be Virginie continuing or whoever, they really should have a permanent tenure. The dedication of Karl being there for like 36 years is unheard of nowadays and imo that fact alone gave the brand enormous value. I'm not sure who would be the best pick because the decision would have such a huge impact and would need to be sustainable for decades. Chanel can't participate in the revolving door stuff going on everywhere. It would have serious consequences on its value and legacy

 

[disco54]

I think the only designer able to modernize this brand is Phoebe Philo. She is the one having most in common with Coco.

She is THE perfect choice for the brand, like Coco Chanel she is a fashion behemoth. Chanel is currently on autopilot and making money of essentially what is KL's legacy, Virginie is in no way or form going to invigorate Chanel, her designs are insipid and poorly constructed, just look at how awful the fitting of the pants and dresses are in this collection. This bizarre Hot Topic teenage bad girl looks ridiculous in a day and age when one should be designing with grown, working women in their 20s and 30s in mind. Phoebe Philo completely understands that Virginia, Maria Grazia, and even Vacarello don't understand that all, and that's why we see pathetic collections from them every season.

 

[Creative]

I don't think Chanel can handle someone like Phoebe tbh and I doubt it will happen. Chanel needs stability; in fact, it's still selling like crazy even though the collections are MEH and Karl is not there anymore. I think what Karl did was so strong that can be perpetuated for many years, and Virginie is OK for that mission... I doubt they would hire someone as hyped as Phoebe, who would shake Chanel's image. Then, when her hype is out, they would need someone to shake the image of the brand again... It would be like a sort of new Dior. Ew. I hate that idea for Chanel.

PS: Lola, nice to see you!!

 

[entten]

Im not bothered by it. Its the same thing I have seen for the last years at Chanel. Its solid save Chanel as always. The only thing is the really ill fitted clothes. Some super skinny girls look like they gained weight to size 40. Especially the looks on Sara Grace Wallersted

 

[blackbow91]

That's dreadful.
Which is good, because I hate this brand.

 

[StylishCynic]

The t-shirt in look 12 with a print of the model’s face and jewel-embroidered tears retails for $5,150 (with sleeves) or $5,100 (sleeveless).

That is just disgusting.

source: purseforum

 

[LoveFashion25]

This is applicable to every component of the industry now— from designers, to photographers, models, stylists, to editors/CDs/ADs. Fabled and renowned labels Chanel/Dior/Gucci were all once high fashion designs— not just mere department-store/fast-fashion fodder; just like Vogue was once high fashion presentation of an unapologetically exclusive dreamworld— not a flyer/catalogue featuring relatable everyday people in their everyday lives; and photographers created this euphoric escapism that the readers were once sophisticated enough to know were just mere illusions. But these illusions inspired and aspired us to be better than we are. Now… there’s nothing to aspire to cuz apparently inspiration is offensive if it doesn’t directly represent everyday people LOL

I’d never thought I’d live to see the day when the industry is plagued with the brand of juvenile and amateur designer/aesthetic that I experienced back in 2008 on ModelMayhem… LOOOOOOL…



You jest— but Demna could very well be that dark horse to breathe new life to Chanel… He’s shown he’s absolutely capable of fresh and exciting creative vision, along with the technical skills for cut and construction when he debuted with both Vetements/Balenciaga. I doubt Chanel would tolerate this Gucci/Balenciaga/JW Anderson silliness, and he would need to resort back to his actual creative talent/experienced technical skills. And with a reigned-in dose of his trademark trolling (Karl always did inject a subtle dose of tacky/gaudiness to his Chanel anyway)— Demna is the only true talent of this era's overhyped lessers.

Reading your comment made me sad for some reason. The fashion industry is so lost right now.

 

[blackcherrified]

It seems like Virginie Viard is using the concrete embroidery technique from the Fall 2014 HC collection on some of the jackets and dresses seen in this collection? The prices of those pieces will shoot through the roof…