Aouadi Haute Couture F/W 2015.16 Paris

[marcBarna]

By Paulina Szmydke

What do you do when you are a designer with a penchant for craft, but do not want to deal with the speed the industry imposes? You create a couture label — like Yacine Aouadi.
“For me, haute couture is the last remaining part of fashion that rises above the limits of marketing and trends,” said the 35-year-old newcomer, whose freshman collection offered a refreshing dose of day in a season focused on eveningwear.
Kept mostly to a palette of black, the lineup took cues from the Victorian period, but with a modernist twist. The lines were clean and linear, spiced up with artisanal details. To wit: Aouadi embroidered little cubes of glass on lace to create tone-on-tone patterns, or he braided his garments, including a high-collar coat, from stripes of black-and-white tulle.
Elsewhere, the Balmain alumnus played with transparency by inserting trompe l’oeil tattoos, which upon closer inspection turned out to be embroideries. Contrary to his fall collection’s dark mood, Aouadi said he is not drawn to a goth-like aesthetic. “What I wish to do is to propose a wardrobe, one that’s real and that avoids the clichés of couture,” he said.

wwd.com

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

Beautiful! This could be a The Row Haute Couture collection

 

[Salvatore]

Now how cool is this !

 

[Chris_Couture05]

Beautifully classic pieces updated with modern cuts and details. I like it a lot.

 

[Deleted member 130879]

Would wear every single piece!

 

[CholoChic]

Very beautiful and dinamic.

 

[IZ uS]

Throughout the whole couture week. I have always come back to this. It's refreshing.

 

[squilliam]

Loving this. Definitely wanna see more from him

 

[marcBarna]

The New Couturiers: Aouadi’s Punkish Femmes
By Tina Isaac-Goizé

Given his gentle demeanor, you would never guess that Yacine Aouadi (pronounced “ow-a-dee”), the Marseilles-born designer of Algerian origin, hails from one of the roughest neighborhoods in France. Now 30, the designer has been living in Paris for five years, where he attended the Studio Berçot, then spent a couple of years at Balmain, first with Christophe Decarnin, then with Olivier Rousteing during his debut season. Since then, Aouadi has been quietly building a capsule collection of 13 unique couture creations, which he presented in Paris this week. “I wanted to do only unique pieces so I could find my style, but also I wanted to just focus on craftsmanship because that is what I really love and believe in most,” he told Style.com.

Backed solely by his partner, Matthieu Pabiot, and their families, Aouadi produces what he calls “hybrid demi-couture” entirely in Paris. “It’s hybrid because couture is a question of means, but it’s also a question of culture,” he explains. “The way women live and dress now is different, so couture does not necessarily mean princess dresses anymore.” Highlights from the all-black collection include a sharply tailored three-quarter cashmere coat with delicate, almost organic tube embroidery at the neck, embroidered buttons, and a wide organza insert near the hem. Easily the collection’s most demure piece, it would be equally at home in Paris or on Park Avenue, and can also be worn as a dress. Elsewhere, looks are body-con and skew more downtown (Mercer Street or the Marais, perhaps). One top, for example, splices wool cloth and illusion tulle embroidered with jet across the midsection, an haute riff on Aouadi’s own body art, with a sporty neon green zip in back. Jet embroidery crops up again as “disintegrating petals” on a transparent overskirt of a long boatneck dress. On another dress, sleeves in several varieties of lace mix it up on a halter-neck, zip-front dress. Aouadi’s style is definitely femme fatale: One of his icons is Faye Dunaway in Puzzle of a Downfall Child. But for women who know their own mind, that’s what makes this designer one of the most compelling up-and-comers on the Paris scene right now. And even before he showed his first line in Paris this week, Aouadi already had one customer whom any designer would dream of: Celine Dion. The singer bought one of the Aouadi’s one-off creations, a formfitting black number with white embroidery, but, given that her tour was canceled, she has yet to be spotted wearing it in public.

style.com

 

[squilliam]

Style.com has great pictures of the full collection, glad to see he got some recognition