John Galliano - Designer, Creative Director of Maison Margiela

I tried searching for "Surprise", but the results didn't match the description of the dress. I'm not sure if those sources are correct. I'll wait until someone can help me TT.:innocent::bounce:
Okay I am looking into my archives. We have all the YSL archives plus we bought back so many patterns French fashion houses used to sell abroad... including many Dior and Chanel, but we never had the time and ressources to scan those.
 
I wonder if Mr. Rosso is interested in buying John Galliano from LVMH. But why does Arnault seem to be holding on to the Galliano? Are they still punishing him? I don’t think it’s even profitable under Bill?
 
are they revenging on galliano by making his namesake as cheap as possible? tbf karl lagerfelds namesake is as cheap and tacky as moschino love. Both houses have massive potential and is being used as hypebeast stores. I imagine 50-70 years from now someone will revive these houses and use lagerfeld and gallianos works at chanel and dior as their archive like schiaparelli.
 
As far as I could find, the directors at JG the brand are Damian Boever and Christophe Rippert. Full blown zombie operation, and I think the directors and stylists involved use it as a passion project to get their hands on Galliano archive to use to their advantage. Disheartening to look at.
 
are they revenging on galliano by making his namesake as cheap as possible? tbf karl lagerfelds namesake is as cheap and tacky as moschino love. Both houses have massive potential and is being used as hypebeast stores. I imagine 50-70 years from now someone will revive these houses and use lagerfeld and gallianos works at chanel and dior as their archive like schiaparelli.
Honestly, I'd genuinely like to see that happen, ideally without the Arnaults.
 
I wonder if Mr. Rosso is interested in buying John Galliano from LVMH. But why does Arnault seem to be holding on to the Galliano? Are they still punishing him? I don’t think it’s even profitable under Bill?
are they revenging on galliano by making his namesake as cheap as possible? tbf karl lagerfelds namesake is as cheap and tacky as moschino love. Both houses have massive potential and is being used as hypebeast stores. I imagine 50-70 years from now someone will revive these houses and use lagerfeld and gallianos works at chanel and dior as their archive like schiaparelli.

Arnault and Toledano made up with Galliano already. John was even invited at a Vernissage at The Louis Vuitton Foundation with Anna.
John Galliano the brand was never profitable but they had a lot of licensing deals that kept the brand afloat as LVMH invested in it. I guess the licensing deals are done now and they don’t have to have shows or any other presence for the brand to exist.

Maybe John can get back his name without actually using it for a company again.

The Karl Lagerfeld brand is a different issue though. Karl didn’t care design wise. There were good collections, good ideas but nothing really worked. And they finally found the good business formula.
I don’t think they can be luxury. They are like Marc Jacobs.
 
Galliano underwear lol. I have some including some long johns.
 
There seem to be quite a few of fashion related movies coming out in 2024. Is there a thread where people discuss all of them? Thank you.
 
LET'S GOOOOO


just saw this yesterday at BFI southbank in london and it was exhilarating. the rest of the audience loved it too. very moving and at times also surprisingly quite funny - although i'd argue that most of the comedy is unintentional, some of john's moments and testimonies are just pure OTT. you can tell john is a born performer and even his answers now still bear a trace of that love for performance and acting, which in many ways was conditioned by a strict catholic upbringing.

his visit to the dior archives towards the end, where he reconnects with members of the atelier is so sweet. one woman tells him how much they miss him at the house and always think of him, telling him she will "see him soon". sidney and john have made amends after many years, which is good to hear. sidney actually features quite prominently in the collection, as do archive interviews with arnault after john's departure.

it seems john has forgiven himself too but at times i still don't think he understands the gravity of what he said or did. but the documentary makes a point of emphasising how much work he's done in penance. taking courses in understanding jewish history; reading books on the holocaust; meeting with rabbis, jewish leaders, psychiatrists and addiction experts to understand how or why he said what he said.

his redemptive journey does seem, at face, very genuine - that's as long as you don't ask philippe virgitti, the asian man he attacked at one of several incidents la perle and who believes john is a racist, despite showing him mercy at a trial. john still has a foggy memory of the events in question. he sometimes takes the events a bit lightly, with a slight twinkle in his eye, and has to be remembered by lexy (his boyfriend - alexis roche, who is actually very sweet) what truly happened, which is when the shame and guilt seemingly returns.

there are some great moments with amanda harlech, who features in the documentary and who i truly believe - along with andre leon talley - is the unsung hero in john's career. the documentary provides more context to the collapse of her and john's professional relationship after the move to dior, which is attributed to both steven robinson and the house's alleged reluctance to pay her more than they were willing.

the loss of steven robinson looms large and the documentary makes a point of framing it as a pivotal moment in john's life. upon his visit to the dior archives, he is reminded of steven's memory by les petites mains and this counts as the only time in the whole documentary where he gets visibly very emotional. at times, it made me very emotional too. his comments notwithstanding, this is a man who has paid his dues and whose rehabilitation is desperately needed if fashion is to remain exciting and relevant.

his rehabilitation is certainly something that seems as though it was meticulously planned by fashion's higher powers. anna wintour is a key figure in this plan, as is the coterie of models and celebrities that have supported and continue to love john, such as kate moss, charlize theron and penelope cruz. at one point, naomi campbell admits she hasn't watched the video of john that circulated - in which he drunkenly professes his love for hitler. she is adamant she knows john on a deeper level and that he is not that person. a more cyncial viewer might question whether that is true or whether her steadfast loyalty to the man is colouring her judgement.

the documentary features recurring footage from abel gance's 1927 film napoléon - a film john was obsessed with and influenced by from a very early age - which is interspersed throughout the documentary, mirroring key points in galliano's life and career. kevin macdonald draws obvious parallels between bonaparte and galliano, men who experienced a meteoric rise, ruled paris for a time, and then burned out spectacularly.

john finds kevin's insistence on the parallels with napoleon funny, but for the audience the allusions are obvious. john is a born showman, and the closest thing that fashion has ever had, or will have, to napoleon. he is a visionary and a genius. a once-in-a-generation talent who is clearly still admired and revered by fashion's elite. he is - along with mcqueen - my personal hero, and i came out of this documentary loving and appreciating him much more than i already did.

he's lived an extraordinary life and had an even more extraordinary career, so i'm excited to see where he's headed to next.
 
^ Wow spoilers much @gallianostan 😂 I jest, as it’s good to know the documentary isn’t some major puff piece, which a lot of the fashion documentaries are. I’m still slightly put off by the McQueen one even though I watch it frequently purely to see some of the collections and backstage things (plus his grad collection).

I mean, this could really be looked at as bit of a puff piece in a way, but it’s still reads to be pretty well laid out and unbiased with a good focus on the archives too.
 
Does anyone know where to watch the full 1996 documentary Unmistakable Galliano? It used to be available on YouTube but it’s been taken down. The Spanish version is still available.
 

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