Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[Kimihiro]

It feels like they can't decide what they want. Talks of elevation and then this sneaker. They can't have their cake and eat it too.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

The fact that anyone is even trying to launch a new sneaker shows just how far behind they are. Had they released them 5 years ago, that would be something worth noting. But, in 2024? Everyone has moved on from that trend.

 

[Norden]

Ive never seen such a succession of badly planned and strategizes PR/merch/marketing moves. The brand is allllll over the place. What a disaster and completely insult to Alessandro’s work. They could have easily continued his work and transform it to the market with another designer like what happened and ysl. Now they’re just starting all over again with a very lackluster proposition. This is what happens if creative direction is weak

 

[yslforever]

It's funny you say that actually. I recently watched a video of Cassie Thorpe reviewing the Ancora collection and she mentioned how similar the heels were to Vaccarello's designs at YSL.

I am almost certain they, Kering's brands, somehow share design offices at the manufacturers levels, like a shoe supplier sending the same heels or pre-designed prototypes to all the Kering studios, and the studios choose among them and adapt them. I have spotted so many similarities.
Design offices at the manufacturers do exist for sure, and they are often very useful, but as a brand you should not rely too much on those designs.

 

[PDFSD]

Fashion Merry-Go-Round Series: 1-More changes at Gucci and Balenciaga
Astrid Wendlandt
31/03/24



NOT GOING ANYWHERE


Back on the fashion front, more details have emerged this week about what is going on at Gucci. Key staff have left or are in the process of leaving, as they realize that Sabato lacks what it takes to help the brand regain its authority and desirability, Miss Tweed has learned. "No-one can imagine to what extent it's chaos," one person who left Gucci a few weeks ago said. "People don't trust Sabato any longer because they understand that his vision is not strong enough. After three shows, it's clear that the brand is not going anywhere. It lacks a strong point of view."


A common complaint about De Sarno is that he gets lost in details, for example micro-managing how the brand communicates on social networks when he should be focusing on its strategic vision. He does not have the strength and depth of Michele. Also, since he arrived, he has been focusing on marketing Gucci's Jackie handbag. He has not come up yet with a strong new collection of leather goods.


Miss Tweed reported last week about how people complained internally that De Sarno was not surrounded by people with enough experience and talent, especially in areas such as image, marketing and merchandising.


As reported, Gucci's Chief Marketing Officer Jonathan Kiman is looking for another job and Lila Staab, in charge of celebrities, is soon to leave. Other key managers are halfway out the door. These include Maria Cristina Lomanto, in charge of merchandising, one senior source close to the brand said. Another is Cedric Murac, whom Gucci asked to resign from Calvin Klein. He moved to Milan to join the brand in June 2023 as senior vice-president, global brand image and content. Murac was supposed to manage Gucci's image, but in practice, that job is being fulfilled by De Sarno's art director, Ricardo Zanola. Hence Murac is not doing the job for which he was hired and has been relegated to handle things such as packaging. "He's planning his exit as well," a source close to the brand said. Kiman, Staab and Murac did not reply to requests for comment.


Zanola is a freelancer but works exclusively for Gucci now, industry sources said. De Sarno likes him, but other people value less his input, staff say.


A case in point: images for advertising campaigns regularly arrive later than agreed, creating stress and chaos internally. "There is a lack of discipline," one person who worked with Zanola and De Sarno said.


As Miss Tweed reported last week, Stefano Cantino, in charge of communications and events at Louis Vuitton, is set to take a bigger and more operational role at Gucci. His farewell party is scheduled for the end of April. Cantino is due to start at Gucci in May. He will look after marketing, merchandising and relations with clients. Astonishingly, Louis Vuitton is letting him go without taking any gardening leave. The French luxury brand is known for being strict about enforcing the non-competition clauses it includes in contracts. These prevent someone from working for another brand for up to a year. "He must have negotiated his exit well" several people close to the matter said. Cantino did not reply to a voice message from Miss Tweed.


There is speculation that Alessandro Valenti, Louis Vuitton's EMEA president, could also join Gucci after nine years at the leather goods specialist. Valenti would oversee Gucci's retail network. One source said he had already moved to Milan. Valenti and LVMH did not reply to requests for comment. If he joins Gucci, together with Cantino, the two men are going to find a company with a decimated leadership, sources close to the brand say.


Zanola is a freelancer but works exclusively for Gucci now, industry sources said. De Sarno likes him, but other people value less his input, staff say.


A case in point: images for advertising campaigns regularly arrive later than agreed, creating stress and chaos internally. "There is a lack of discipline," one person who worked with Zanola and De Sarno said.


As Miss Tweed reported last week, Stefano Cantino, in charge of communications and events at Louis Vuitton, is set to take a bigger and more operational role at Gucci. His farewell party is scheduled for the end of April. Cantino is due to start at Gucci in May. He will look after marketing, merchandising and relations with clients. Astonishingly, Louis Vuitton is letting him go without taking any gardening leave. The French luxury brand is known for being strict about enforcing the non-competition clauses it includes in contracts. These prevent someone from working for another brand for up to a year. "He must have negotiated his exit well," several people close to the matter said. Cantino did not reply to a voice message from Miss Tweed.


There is speculation that Alessandro Valenti, Louis Vuitton's EMEA president, could also join Gucci after nine years at the leather goods specialist. Valenti would oversee Gucci's retail network. One source said he had already moved to Milan. Valenti and LVMH did not reply to requests for comment. If he joins Gucci, together with Cantino, the two men are going to find a company with a decimated leadership, sources close to the brand say.


Staff say they do not see Gucci CEO Jean-François Palus very often. He is regarded as a great cost-cutter but communicates little about strategy. Palus is said to be preparing a major redundancy plan. It is not clear how long he will stay at Gucci. He has left Kering's board of directors. This allows him to depart whenever he chooses. Arguably, he stilli has a lot on his plate, particularly if he and François-Henri Pinault finally come to the conclusion that De Sarno was not the right designer for Gucci. The sooner they reach that point, the quicker they can find alternative solutions and mend the brand. Pinault has repeatedly said his ambition was to "elevate" Gucci. Now he needs to move fast to stop it spiraling down.


With Michele joining Valentino, a label in which Kering bought a 30-percent stake last year, could Piccioli join Gucci? This is not the only option he may consider, as Miss Tweed will explain next week. De Sarno worked with Piccioli as head of ready-to-wear at Valentino before joining Gucci in May last year. To be continued ...


(Edited by Andrew Dobbie, photo montage by Dimka)


©Copyright Miss Tweed.

 

[jeanclaude]

I am still wondering what they saw in Sabato, when they chose him for Gucci...

 

[gallianostan]

I am still wondering what they saw in Sabato, when they chose him for Gucci...

a submissive house slave

 

[yslforever]

I am still wondering what they saw in Sabato, when they chose him for Gucci...

It seems obvious that:
- Michele and Bizarri replacements were not planned, they were not prepared and had no succession plans,
- Palus was not the first choice and isn't fit for the job, when he was announced he was temporary, then permanent, and now he's having a deputy. They did not get the CEOs they wanted and had to find the most loyal, the closest high-ranking exec they had.
- De Sarno was not the first choice either, they approached quite a few before him but they were not willing to eat the sh*t-n-caviar sandwich, so they thought they find an experimented, safe and commercial Creative Director with Sabato. Except he is not creative not that experimented, the red carpet number on Cara Delevingne this week is weirdly tailored and rather unflattering :

Just Jared on Instagram: "Cara Delevingne sparkles in Gucci while attending the 2024 Olivier Awards, where she presented an award alongside her “Cabaret” co-star Luke Treadaway. Head to JustJared.com now for more pics! #CaraDelevingne#LukeTreadaway#O

5,328 likes, 16 comments - justjaredApril 14, 2024 on : "Cara Delevingne sparkles in Gucci while attending the 2024 Olivier Awards, where she presented an award alongside her “Cabaret” co-st..."

www.instagram.com

The neckline, the waist, the straps, the colors are just ewww

 

[Frederic01]

The furniture....



SABATO DE SARNO + GUCCI

 

[Nimsay]

I am almost certain they, Kering's brands, somehow share design offices at the manufacturers levels, like a shoe supplier sending the same heels or pre-designed prototypes to all the Kering studios, and the studios choose among them and adapt them. I have spotted so many similarities.
Design offices at the manufacturers do exist for sure, and they are often very useful, but as a brand you should not rely too much on those designs.

100% YSL Sergio Rossi and Gucci frequently had the exact same models.

 

[Nimsay]

lol Gucci Furniture. When is Kering going to give me my job?

They didn't even pick the best Italian Icons btw... only the sofa and lamp feel Italian. Its baffling why they would spend time and money staging and presenting - advertising brands that arent Gucci..

Anyway all this CEO fishing while their numbers are floundering is going to attract either the incompetent. or those looking to part Gucci out in exchange for a role at the company they sell Gucci out to. Its crazy how poorly managed Gucci is...

why would I dress Cara D in 2024? so many poor choices. All his evening looks appear slapped together, like the bodice and skirt werent meant to go together and are just pieced from scraps because Gucci cant even waste prototypes...

 

[Nimsay]

if i were Pinault I would go to Ferrari - home of the best managers in the world - Ferrari is like slightly in front of Porsche and swiss jewelers like Rolex as having the worlds best management. Pinault should like offer them something - like access to haute couture atelier for their Ferrari RTW label - maybe offer them Boucheron. In exchange for a couple of their managers on a 3 year contract. Pinault has to make it worth it......

 

[yslforever]

if i were Pinault I would go to Ferrari - home of the best managers in the world - Ferrari is like slightly in front of Porsche and swiss jewelers like Rolex as having the worlds best management. Pinault should like offer them something - like access to haute couture atelier for their Ferrari RTW label - maybe offer them Boucheron. In exchange for a couple of their managers on a 3 year contract. Pinault has to make it worth it......

Except that Ferrari is Agnelli, and Ginevra Elkann left Kering's board because of the development of Exior fashion investments and potential conflict of interests.
And the Elkanns and Pinault aren't on speaking terms anymore....

Maybe they can borrow Ferrari's Creative Director too...

 

[jeanclaude]

Meanwhile, at Gucci HQ...

TWO!! Let´s hire Kanye West as stylist!!


pinimg.com

 

[Lola701]

Im at an Airport and im sorry but those new burgundy glossy shopping bags looks terrible. The B&W shopping bags from Michele looked so much better and quite timeless.
Burgundy is my favorite color but ANCORA’s branding still feels incomplete for me!

 

[jeanclaude]

Im at an Airport and im sorry but those new burgundy glossy shopping bags looks terrible. The B&W shopping bags from Michele looked so much better and quite timeless.
Burgundy is my favorite color but ANCORA’s branding still feels incomplete for me!

My favourite are the dark grey with silver lettering...by Tom. 😌

 

[Frederic01]

Gucci to Hold Cruise 2025 Show at London’s Tate Modern​

The event, which will unveil creative director Sabato De Sarno's first cruise collection, will take place on May 13 and Gucci will support the "Electric Dreams" exhibition bowing in the fall, in addition to a three-year partnership fostering the Tate’s work with young creatives.

By LUISA ZARGANI
APRIL 18, 2024, 12:01AM



Gucci will on Thursday reveal that the brand’s cruise 2025 show will be presented at the Tate Modern in London on May 13.

WWD

 

[grimm]

WWD

Wow, what a unique, expected choice for a fashion show in London!

 

[LadyJunon]

Full Article:

Gucci to Hold Cruise 2025 Show at London’s Tate Modern
The event, which will unveil creative director Sabato De Sarno's first cruise collection, will take place on May 13 and Gucci will support the "Electric Dreams" exhibition bowing in the fall, in addition to a three-year partnership fostering the Tate’s work with young creatives.

By LUISA ZARGANI
APRIL 18, 2024, 12:01AM

MORE DETAILS: Gucci will on Thursday reveal that the brand’s cruise 2025 show will be presented at the Tate Modern in London on May 13. In February, Gucci revealed that London was the selected city for the show, without providing details about the location.

This will be creative director Sabato De Sarno’s first cruise collection, after taking the helm of the luxury brand in January last year.

“Tate Modern stands as a hub of creativity and dialogue, where diverse perspectives converge to spark meaningful conversations and foster cultural exchange,” Gucci said in a statement. “Here, the interplay of art and architecture creates an environment that inspires innovation and challenges boundaries, much like the city itself. Inspired by multiple journeys to London over time, where he immersed himself in the city’s diverse cultures, Sabato De Sarno seeks to capture the essence of London’s spirit — a coming together of ideas, styles and personalities, defined by contrasts that spark creativity.”

Gucci’s connection to London runs deep, as the brand’s history is linked to founder Guccio Gucci, who in 1897 was a luggage porter and lift boy at London hotel The Savoy. Observing the guests’ luggage, he was inspired to start creating his own line of luxury suitcases and bags, founding his namesake house in Florence in 1921 and setting up the first Gucci store in the Italian city’s Via della Vigna Nuova.

In alignment with Gucci’s longstanding commitment to champion culturally significant locations and their communities, the house will support the “Electric Dreams” exhibition at Tate Modern, which opens this fall, in addition to a three-year partnership fostering the museum’s work with young creatives. “Embracing a shared commitment to inclusivity and empowerment, Gucci and Tate aim to encourage positive exchanges within communities, and inspire creativity across diverse audiences,” the company stated.

Last year, Gucci staged its cruise 2024 show at the Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul on May 16, marking the brand’s 25 years in the country. That collection was designed by an in-house team, following the exit of the previous creative director Alessandro Michele in November 2022.

Before the COVID-19 pandemic hit, Michele had selected unique locations for Gucci’s then-called cruise collections: Arles, France, at the Alyscamps Roman necropolis, classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1981, for the cruise 2019 show. Before that, the shows were held in other culturally significant locations, including New York’s Dia Art Foundation, Westminster Abbey’s cloisters in London, Palazzo Pitti’s Palatina Gallery in Florence and the Capitoline Museums in Rome. Gucci committed to preserve these storied sites.

Among other cruise shows, Chanel plans to present its 2025 line in the port city of Marseille on May 2. Louis Vuitton has scheduled its cruise show in Barcelona on May 23, and Dior has revealed its show in Scotland will take place on June 3. Max Mara is planning to present its resort 2025 collection with a fashion show in Venice on June 11.

Source: WWD

 

[lookatme]

“Tate Modern stands as a hub of creativity and dialogue, where diverse perspectives converge to spark meaningful conversations and foster cultural exchange,” Gucci said in a statement. “Here, the interplay of art and architecture creates an environment that inspires innovation and challenges boundaries, much like the city itself. Inspired by multiple journeys to London over time, where he immersed himself in the city’s diverse cultures, Sabato De Sarno seeks to capture the essence of London’s spirit — a coming together of ideas, styles and personalities, defined by contrasts that spark creativity.”

Absolute word salad trash.