Designer & Fashion Insiders Behavior (PLEASE READ POST #1 BEFORE POSTING)

I'm sorry to say, but these 'takeovers' are a bad idea. It's like a mum saying 'let me bring in the help and get them to teach my kiddies how to not be racist.' It's your audience Goop, DVF et al, you speak and educate them yourselves if that's so important to you. I don't follow any of these women who are giving up their IG pages, but if I did I would feel insulted and unfollow immediately. Not because of the message but because of the mentality that for some reason I can't think for myself and I'm 'part of the problem.' The entire concept of social media is based on agency. You choose who you follow. You shouldn't force followers to listen to Lindsay Peoples Wagner, let them find their own way to her organically.

Purely speculation, but maybe the real reason is that these women are afraid of backlash and that's why they're now pushing black women in to do the job on behalf of them.

Leading Black Women Take Over White Celebrities’ Instagram Accounts in Social Media Action

Bozoma Saint John, Lindsay Peoples Wagner, Gwyneth Paltrow and Kourtney Kardashian are all part of the #Sharethemicnow campaign.

By Kathryn Hopkins on June 9, 2020

A new social media campaign focused on magnifying black women’s voices is launching Wednesday.

Actress and Goop founder Gwyneth Paltrow, soccer star Megan Rapinoe and a number of other white celebrities will be handing over their Instagram accounts for the day to prominent black women, including Teen Vogue editor Lindsay Peoples Wagner and Endeavor chief marketing officer Bozoma Saint John, for #sharethemicnow.

The social media campaign intends to shine a light on the work these women are doing in order to catalyze the change “that will only come when we truly hear each other’s voices.”

Saint John, one of the founders of the campaign — who has held a number of senior positions at leading tech firms, including chief brand officer at Uber and head of global consumer marketing at Apple Music and iTunes — explained how her voice has often been muted in society despite her success in the business world.

“I used to say, I am woman, hear me roar. But as a black woman who has roared in America’s corporate hallways and boardrooms, my voice is often muted by a society [that] has not placed much value on its timber,” she said. “But today is a new day! In unison with black women across the country, partnering with white women, we’re changing our tune: I am woman, hear me uproar.”

For her part, Saint John will take over “Keeping Up With the Kardashians” star Kourtney Kardashian’s account. Peoples Wagner will take over designer Diane von Furstenberg’s account; community organizer and Black Lives Matter cofounder Opal Tometi will take over model Ashley Graham’s account; and editor and influencer Kahlana Barfield Brown will take over actress Julia Roberts’ account;

Elsewhere, Mama Glow founder Latham Thomas will be filling in for Paltrow on her account; fencer Ibtihaj Muhammad for Rapinoe; former Teen Vogue editor Elaine Welteroth for actress Michelle Monaghan and GQ’s deputy fashion director Nikki Ogunnaike for Thrive Global ceo Arianna Huffington.

According to the campaign, whose other founders include author Glennon Doyle, author Luvvie Ajayi Jones and Alice + Olivia chief executive officer Stacey Bendet Eisner, the 46 white women involved have a combined social media presence of 300 million.

#Sharethemicnow comes on the heels of several recent social media campaigns geared at achieving racial equality in the wake of the police killings of George Floyd and Breonna Taylor. That includes #pulluporshutup, the brainchild of Uoma Beauty founder and ceo Sharon Chuter. The goal of that grassroots campaign is to raise awareness of the lack of black employees at American corporations.

Aurora James, founder of the accessories line Brother Vellies, has also established the 15 Percent Pledge initiative, which calls upon retailers to dedicate 15 percent of shelf space to majority black-owned businesses.

WWD
 
I'm sorry to say, but these 'takeovers' are a bad idea...

Purely speculation, but maybe the real reason is that these women are afraid of backlash and that's why they're now pushing black women in to do the job on behalf of them.

It’s just super privileged white women creating a safe space and “going through the motions” to make themselves feel better.
 
This is where it's starting to get murky. So you've called them out a week ago for throwing you to the wolves, and now you've partnered with them, because? They said sorry and made the right donations? It just reads.....suspicious. If it were me I would just take the apology and donations and move on? I refuse to believe that an age-old institution like L'Oreal would have 'seen the light.'

 
Anok responds, via an op-ed spot in The Oprah Magazine

Anok Yai Says Black Models Shouldn't Have to Educate the Fashion Industry About Racism

After her friend and a prominent fashion editor made a "tone deaf" remark, model Anok Yai opened up to OprahMag.com about her experiences as a Black immigrant in America.

By Anok Yai
Jun 8, 2020

img-4576-jpg-1591639557.jpg

ANOK YAI

Anok Yai is an Egyptian-born fashion model of South Sudanese descent, known for work in editorial campaigns and on the covers of magazines like Harper's Bazaar and Vogue. She made history in 2018 as the second Black model ever to open a Prada show, the first since Naomi Campbell in 1997.

Last week, as millions across the country voiced their support of the Black Lives Matter movement in the wake of the deaths of George Floyd, Ahmaud Arbery, Breonna Taylor, and thousands more, Yai unexpectedly found herself in the news cycle.

After her friend and French fashion editor, Carine Roitfeld, posted a photo with Yai with the caption “Miss you,” Roitfeld then added in the comment section: “Anok is not a black woman, she is my friend.” Many on social media pointed out that is seemed opportunistic for Roitfeld to post a photo with Yai displaying their friendship —while also erasing her identity as a Black woman. Roitfeld later issued an apology, calling the post “insensitive” and “tone deaf.”

In an essay exclusive to OprahMag.com, Yai opens up for the first time about what happened—and shares more about her experiences as a Black immigrant in America and what she hopes we can all learn from this moment.

I remember the first time I was called the n-word.

To say I was shocked and confused would be an understatement. I was in what I thought was a “safe” setting among a group of kids and adults. Of course, being children, others started in on the name-calling, adding salt to the wound. I knew it was wrong, but I was so taken aback that I didn’t really have much of a reaction. Instead, I remained quiet and walked away. It didn't hit me until the next day, and I cried. Prior to this, I had already built up a tolerance for being called names; each situation had added a layer to my already thick skin.

As I got older, I began to understand that name-calling came from a place of ignorance. Words can be weaponized, and although I’ve built a personal wall against racial slurs, it does not mean I haven’t been harmed and scarred time and again. It also became very apparent that racial slurs spanned well beyond the mouths of immature children. From public figures to the police, slurs know no bounds.

I recall another incident when I was walking home from elementary school. I was dribbling a basketball when I heard a white man call to me, “Hey, pass me the ball.” I kept to myself. He immediately responded with: “I’m trying to be nice to you. This is why you people don’t belong in this country.” Then he had his dog chase after me. I ran and hid in a bush for about half an hour before running home. As a young immigrant of color, I thought America was supposed to be better than that—but sadly, like so many other African Americans have experienced, this type of scenario is not only familiar, but commonplace.

Like so many of my fellow Black brothers and sisters, the stories don't end there; I have several that have shaken me to my core, like when I was in fifth grade walking to school with my two younger brothers. We were at a cross walk when a man at a stop sign told us to go ahead—but once we got past the median, he sped into us. My brothers didn’t notice the car coming and kept walking; I grabbed them each by their backpacks and pulled them back just before the car could hit them. Ignorant words thrown from children is one thing, but to be targeted by an adult is something I still to this day have not been able to wrap my head around.

To date, I’m still incredibly nervous whenever I see the police or enter a hospital. Although their collective purpose is supposed to be to serve, protect, and deliver on the Hippocratic Oath, affiliating with either institution conjures up feelings of fear and anxiety, leaving me with a racing heart versus one that should feel nourished and at ease. This is all based on the color of my skin and how helpless it can make me feel in America today.

Black models should not have to teach working professionals how to deal with our hair and skin.

When I was blessed with finding a career in modeling, I thought I might stop experiencing racial injustice. Unfortunately, that was not the case. Instead, racist encounters just became more public—and exposing. I can name so many situations where models of color like me have experienced racism and microaggressions. That in itself is a problem. The lack of reaction on set or backstage is what often caught my attention. I witnessed so many different situations where models were forced to stand up for themselves—with very little support around them, if any at all. The pain and sense of aloneness in those moments of vulnerability were unbearable.

A lot of people have asked what my reaction was to an insensitive post from a friend of mine on Instagram last week. Of course, it was jarring—and it was just one of many similar microaggressions I’ve experienced during my time in fashion. But the bigger point I'd like to focus on is that the fashion industry needs to become educated…and fast.

Yet the industry seems to be depending on the Black community at large to educate them about Black history—as if we’re obligated to do so. Black models should not have to teach working professionals how to deal with our hair and skin day in and day out. Educate yourself and come prepared. It’s your job. The world is changing right before our very eyes, and we won’t be tolerant of intolerance any longer.

For the first time ever, I’m seeing the world unite as an unstoppable force against racism.

Since the moment George Floyd was murdered, so much has occurred. The world has been forcefully awakened. The human race is finally coming together to fight the root cause of injustice—overt and covert racism, along with flagrant abuse of power. The public is finally seeking well-deserved justice for the murders of Black men and women across the nation, since the state and local governments have failed our community time and again. And I couldn’t be more sad—yet more proud.

However, the far-reaching issues of racism in this country extend beyond the murders of George Floyd, Ahmaud Arbery, Breonna Taylor, and the countless other unnecessary lost lives. Our broken system must be addressed at every level if this country is to advance, and targeting police brutality—the perverse underbelly of our society—is the most urgent place to start.

This content is imported from Instagram. You may be able to find the same content in another format, or you may be able to find more information, at their web site.am hopeful. For the first time ever, I’m seeing the world unite as an unstoppable force against racism. Driven by anger, power and solidarity, everyone from the highest to the lowest socioeconomic level is beginning to realize that if we come together and keep the momentum alive, the movement we’ve created will result in lasting change. As the world is demanding justice on a global scale, there's hope that humans can indeed connect through compassion and understanding.

“Do no harm” can no longer be defined as “do nothing at all.”

Even though I still deal with racial injustice, I’m proud that I've always stood for what I believed in, regardless of whatever amount of pressure was put on me. I want people to see that everyone has a story. Your reality may not be the same reality for the person standing right in front of you—so listen and learn about them before surfacing judgment. Everyone has suffered through some form of personal trauma. It’s made them who they are, and that’s what makes us all human.

People should accept America’s history and accept that racism hasn’t gone away. Just because you've never seen or experienced it doesn’t mean it isn’t happening. Silence regarding these matters implies acquiescence with inequality. WE CANNOT REMAIN SILENT. In a country built on biblical principles that emphasize freedom and liberty, mistreatment of our fellow man will not be tolerated—and “do no harm” can no longer be defined as “do nothing at all.”
 
This is where it's starting to get murky. So you've called them out a week ago for throwing you to the wolves, and now you've partnered with them, because? They said sorry and made the right donations? It just reads.....suspicious. If it were me I would just take the apology and donations and move on? I refuse to believe that an age-old institution like L'Oreal would have 'seen the light.'



Why? I can totally understand Munroe's point, which she has described as well. She is an activist to change things and get into the room to make space for more people. She is going to work with them on a board, you are acting like she is doing this for her own win and is going to front some of their campaigns. Ofcourse L'Oreal made mistakes, but I am very happy for the charities to get the money as you know it will be put to good use.

Munroe is imo one of the most important voices in the business these days and should be celebrated way more. A true icon <3
 
This is where it's starting to get murky. So you've called them out a week ago for throwing you to the wolves, and now you've partnered with them, because? They said sorry and made the right donations? It just reads.....suspicious. If it were me I would just take the apology and donations and move on? I refuse to believe that an age-old institution like L'Oreal would have 'seen the light.'



How else would you expect them to 'see the light' if they issue an apology, make donations and move one, without hiring Munroe, or someone like Munroe?

Why? I can totally understand Munroe's point, which she has described as well. She is an activist to change things and get into the room to make space for more people. She is going to work with them on a board, you are acting like she is doing this for her own win and is going to front some of their campaigns. Ofcourse L'Oreal made mistakes, but I am very happy for the charities to get the money as you know it will be put to good use.

Munroe is imo one of the most important voices in the business these days and should be celebrated way more. A true icon <3

Exactly. Not sure how people can expect change, if the companies that made the mistakes in the first place do not make an effort to diversify themselves. I too believe that her joining the board and being a voice in the room, that was previously absent, is a step in the right direction.
 
Quite frankly I think companies like L'oreal who have a deep-rooted toxic company culture which surrounds their decision-making team, are irredeemable. If you think that their choice to give her this advisory role is a 'step in the right direction' then fine, I don't. It's marketing, a ploy to continue selling cheap anti-ageing creams. Her time and efforts are better served elsewhere.

I don't even get this obsession to reform L'Oreal, of all brands? You don't need the largest and most commercial platform to effect change!
 
The Cut Suspends Jane Larkworthy, Bon Appétit Vows to Change
There have been changes at the two publications since the emergence of the photograph of Bon Appétit's former top editor Adam Rapoport in brownface.

By Kathryn Hopkins on June 10, 2020


The Cut’s beauty editor at large Jane Larkworthy has been suspended for a derogatory comment she made on an Instagram post showing former Bon Appétit editor in chief Adam Rapoport in brownface.

The photograph was posted to the social media site in 2013 by Rapoport’s wife Simone Shubuck and shows the two in brownface for Halloween with the caption “#TBT me and my papi @rapo4 #boricua,” a reference to Puerto Ricans. At the time, Larkworthy commented, “This was so dead on, I was so afraid of you two that night!”

When a Bon Appétit freelancer unearthed the since-deleted post Monday, it caused outrage among many and led some former and current staffers to share their negative experiences of working at the magazine as people of color. Among them, staffer Sohla El-Waylly alleged that only white editors are paid for the video appearances on Bon Appétit’s popular YouTube channel. The day ended with Rapoport announcing that he was stepping down to “reflect on the work” that he needs to do as a human being.

The Cut, the fashion vertical of New York Magazine, acted Tuesday evening, with editor in chief and president Stella Bugbee stating in a Twitter post that Larkworthy’s comment “does not represent the values of The Cut, and we’re sorry for the pain it has caused, in particular to the Latinx community.”

“This comment runs counter to the inclusivity we aim to foster at The Cut, both in our workplace and in our storytelling. We are suspending Jane while we investigate and determine the course forward,” she added.

On Monday, Larkworthy issued her own apology on Twitter, calling her comment on the photograph, which was taken in 2004, “shameful.” “What’s even more shameful is that I didn’t approach the people in the photograph at the time and tell them why this was racist,” she added. She has written a column for The Cut since 2018 and became the site’s beauty editor at large in April 2019. According to a release at the time, that meant that in addition to her column, she would produce two features a month in a variety of formats, from product reviews to trend stories to interviews.

It is understood that Larkworthy was on staff, but on a part-time basis.

As for Bon Appétit and sister publication Epicurious, in a lengthy Instagram post Wednesday, the staffs of the Condé Nast-owned food brands called the photo “deeply offensive” and “horrific” on its own, but added that it “speaks to the much broader and long-standing impact of racism at these brands.”

“While we’ve hired more people of color, we have continued to tokenize many BIPOC staffers and contributors in our videos and on our pages,” said one part of the post. “Many new BIPOC hires have been in entry-level positions with little power, and we will be looking to accelerate their career advancement and pay. Black staffers have been saddled with contributing racial education to our staffs and appearing in editorial and promotional photo shoots to make our brands seem more diverse. We haven’t properly learned from or taken ownership of our mistakes.”

They added, though, that things will change, including prioritizing people of color for the editor in chief candidate pool, anti-racism training, resolving any pay inequities and assisting Condé Nast’s internal investigation “to hold individual offenders accountable.” Molly Baz, a white senior food editor with a strong social media following, previously wrote that she would not appear in any Bon Appétit videos until her BIPOC colleagues receive equal pay and are fairly compensated for their appearances.

On Tuesday, Condé Nast named Amanda Shapiro acting deputy director. She was previously the editor of Healthyish, a digital offshoot of Bon Appétit. The New York Times reported that she told staffers that she plans to be in the role on an interim basis and will push for a person of color to take on the editor in chief title.

But this came as more offensive social media posts resurfaced. This time, they were by Matt Duckor, a vice president for Condé Nast, who was previously in charge of Bon Appétit’s popular videos. Among other comments, he tweeted “working out is so gay” and said “@SamSifton are you in Harlem with the black people and Asian same-sex couples? #kidding #diversity.” He apologized for the tweets, which he said were more than 10 years old.

Late Wednesday Condé Nast confirmed a Business Insider report that he had left the company.

WWD
 
Quite frankly I think companies like L'oreal who have a deep-rooted toxic company culture which surrounds their decision-making team, are irredeemable. If you think that their choice to give her this advisory role is a 'step in the right direction' then fine, I don't. It's marketing, a ploy to continue selling cheap anti-ageing creams. Her time and efforts are better served elsewhere.

I don't even get this obsession to reform L'Oreal, of all brands? You don't need the largest and most commercial platform to effect change!

I tend to come from a place of affecting change at all levels. Dismantling a hierarchy doesn't happen overnight but it can start with one person. I'm not saying this is guaranteed to be a huge success, but why not use L'Oreal's platform to help shift opinions. That's also not to say she can't use resources she may not have otherwise to further other brands down the line.
 
News from Refinery29/Vice and the Wing.

Refinery29 is reeling from claims of racism and toxic work culture. Employees say it's even worse behind the scenes - CNN

The site's co-founder and editor-in-chief, Christene Barberich, had repeatedly confused one black woman with another, one said; another tweeted that an executive once confused her with the caterer

Audrey Gelman Is Stepping Down As CEO of The Wing

In mid-March, a number of Wing employees told the New York Times that it did not treat its employees with the intersectional-feminist values it espoused, and that The Wing’s culture originated at the top with Gelman. “I’ve been made to feel small, insignificant, stupid,” one anonymous employee told the Times; another recounted a time when they overheard a member remark, “There’s a lot of colored girls that work here.” (A Wing spokeswoman denied some specific allegations, but said the company couldn’t comment on “most specific personnel matters.”) And in recent days, amid the ongoing protests against police brutality and racism, which have sparked related conversations about diversity and racism in the workplace, more former Wing employees have come forward on social media about the company’s alleged mistreatment of black employees. Gelman’s resignation, many have proclaimed, “is not enough.”
 
Allegations of inappropriate behaviour from Stephan Gan of V Magazine, V Man and creative director of US Elle:

 
His statement doesn't sound convincing at all, not even starting with an acknowledgement or apology to his staff and the fact that they feel a certain way.
I'm mostly amazed at the racism and misogyny because the magazine's content comes across as very diverse in fashion terms, but then this was the same editor who asked when the Testino and Weber bans will 'blow over' because he wanted to shoot with them again.

Obviously he'll be out at Elle, but I wonder what will happen with V/VMan? Will he also be 'going to the sidelines'?
 
Stephen Gan on Way Out at Elle Magazine
The creative director has recently been accused of making racially insensitive and misogynistic comments in the workplace.
By Kathryn Hopkins and Kali Hays on June 15, 2020

Stephen Gan’s tenure at Elle magazine is said to be nearing its end.

Sources said the creative director of the Hearst title since 2018 is being pushed out by Nina Garcia, the editor in chief of Elle, who pulled him over from Harper’s Bazaar soon after she got the top job. Gan also spent 15 years as creative director at Bazaar under its editor Glenda Bailey, who has just been succeeded by Samira Nasr, so he’s been with Hearst for close to 20 years.

A representative of Hearst declined to comment. Gan and Garcia could not be reached.

According to sources, it’s been decided that Gan will no longer have any work with Elle or Hearst going forward and that his contract, up in several weeks, will not be renewed.

Gan, whom Garcia has praised as a “creative visionary,” is being ousted over recent complaints about comments he’s made over the years, allegedly showing not only racial insensitivity but misogyny.

Several instances claimed by anonymous sources were recently outlined in a post by Instagram account Diet Prada, all of which related to Gan’s day-to-day operation of V magazine, the oversize glossy he’s been running for 20 years. But Garcia’s decision is said to have had reasons beyond that post alone, including complaints she’s heard from staff and industry people that Gan has worked with on shoots. It’s understood that there have been a number of complaints over the years, and much murmuring, some recently brought up again.

It remains to be seen what effect, if any, Gan’s alleged comments and professional impropriety will have on V. It, like all magazines, depends on advertising revenue to survive. In an April intervies with WWD, Gan said advertising was at a “standstill” due to the pandemic, although he was hopeful it would improve.

There have been rumblings for months that Gan’s departure was on the horizon. One source told WWD earlier this year that Garcia was unlikely to renew Gan’s contract this summer, although the reasons why were not made clear. Others speculated that stylist Alex White, hired as Elle’s new fashion director in February, was being lined up to take over some of Gan’s responsibilities.

Gan is not the only media executive to have been pushed out in recent weeks as the protests over the police killing of George Floyd, Breonna Taylor and other unarmed Black people have led to a global movement focused on addressing continued racism in all kinds of institutions. Many people working in media have come forward, typically on social media, to speak of negative and often racist experiences as people of color working in the media industry.

In just a few weeks, the public outcry has resulted in the ousting of Refinery29’s editor in chief Christene Barberich, Bon Appétit’s top editor Adam Rapoport and Condé Nast’s vice president and head of programming for lifestyle and style Matt Duckor. Leandra Medine also took a step back from leading the fashion and lifestyle site she founded, Man Repeller, after being called out for a lack of diversity on staff. Jane Larkworthy has been suspended from New York Magazine’s The Cut after a comment on the brown face photo that led to Rapoport’s exit. And James Bennett, the opinion editor of the New York Times, was ousted after publishing a piece by a Republican senator calling for military force to be used in order to quell the ongoing public protests in the aftermath of Floyd’s killing. A number of Times employees took public issue with the op-ed being published, saying it endangered the lives of Black people, thousands of whom have been protesting in public.

The issue of diversity has even come to the doorstep of Anna Wintour, who has only in recent years made an effort to make the pages of Vogue more diverse, along with some other parts of Condé Nast in her relatively few years as artistic director of the publication. The speculation that the current movement would lead to her resignation led to Condé chief executive having to clarify on Friday that renewed rumors of Wintour’s imminent exit were untrue.
wwd
 
Kerby Jean Raymond via Highsnobiety:

Between brands, stores, and publications, there’s certainly a renewed desire to leverage the equity of the Black community as a way to show support. But as you’ve called out on Twitter, there’s an egregious amount of virtue signaling and performative allyship.
I’ve remarked on it [happening] with clothing stores specifically, the ones who are now touting all these Black brands that they’ve never carried or even gone to see themselves. Magazines I’ve never even heard of are putting me in these round-ups, and it’s so disrespectful because they’re not even categorized; it’s just “Black designers.”

It’s detrimental to those who have put in the work to differentiate themselves and carve their own lanes. People who are doing really unique, gender-defying and poetic work like Telfar are being put in the same breath as a single-product DTC, venture-backed company. They’re not giving them any differentiation — just grouping them all together because they’re Black.

If they wanted to have a little bit more respect, they should admit they never supported us, and follow that up with why they’re going to start, and why you should, too. They should educate people about what we do instead of just putting us on these erroneous f*cking lists. You can guilt people into buying things because we’re Black, but that can harm our businesses, because once these people feel like this “trend” is over, then they have a pass to forget about us.

Full interview here - Kerby Jean-Raymond on Our Immediate Need for Police Abolition
 
Wow what a cringy party... All participants must regret ever going to it, but I have no pity for them. When you do clownery...

That said though, cancelling a brand like Etro or Versace because their PR person did blackface at a party? Reach. I guess those guys are going to get sacked anyway.

D&G are like roaches, they seem invincible at this point. I wonder what Sgura will do though!
 

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