Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[plentyofhorns]

Just went to Gucci soho NYC and was surprised by how heavily logo’d the new men’s S/S ANCORA collection is. We’ve been alleging Guccis shift towards “quiet luxury” but their new clothing screams anything but. Barely anything was free of a GG and it all looked so tacky. I could really only see NBA players wearing half the stuff in there.

Side note: the Wooster store layout is bizarre. There is a huge section in the back dedicated to exotic bags and ANCORA but it’s such a waste of space.

 

[Lola701]

Just went to Gucci soho NYC and was surprised by how heavily logo’d the new men’s S/S ANCORA collection is. We’ve been alleging Guccis shift towards “quiet luxury” but their new clothing screams anything but. Barely anything was free of a GG and it all looked so tacky. I could really only see NBA players wearing half the stuff in there.

Side note: the Wooster store layout is bizarre. There is a huge section in the back dedicated to exotic bags and ANCORA but it’s such a waste of space.

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SS2024 was designed by the studio prior to ANCORA.
The early arrival of ANCORA men will probably be in late August.

He has probably designed a prefall collection for men’s and womenswear so it might hit the stores around June.

 

[jeanclaude]

Just went to Gucci soho NYC and was surprised by how heavily logo’d the new men’s S/S ANCORA collection is. We’ve been alleging Guccis shift towards “quiet luxury” but their new clothing screams anything but. Barely anything was free of a GG and it all looked so tacky. I could really only see NBA players wearing half the stuff in there.

Side note: the Wooster store layout is bizarre. There is a huge section in the back dedicated to exotic bags and ANCORA but it’s such a waste of space.

The clothes look like fake Gucci for beginner drug dealers. There is a positive thing here: the transparent hangers are modern, I like them!

 

[Frederic01]

SS2024 was designed by the studio prior to ANCORA.
The early arrival of ANCORA men will probably be in late August.

He has probably designed a prefall collection for men’s and womenswear so it might hit the stores around June.

It's so bizarre they will wait so long to debut any pieces for the menswear with Sabato's aesthetic. You'd think he would have made a capsule by now for menswear to go alongside the womenswear? After all, some of the pieces from his FW Menswear are identical to his SS Womenswear? Make it make sense...

 

[AVC]

It's so bizarre they will wait so long to debut any pieces for the menswear with Sabato's aesthetic. You'd think he would have made a capsule by now for menswear to go alongside the womenswear? After all, some of the pieces from his FW Menswear are identical to his SS Womenswear? Make it make sense...

This is normally how seasons work. Are you not familiar with this?

 

[Nimsay]

That black selection with the webbing is atrocious. I dont mind that shawl collar sweater would look with denim on the right man.

 

[plentyofhorns]

The clothes look like fake Gucci for beginner drug dealers. There is a positive thing here: the transparent hangers are modern, I like them!

Yes it was all giving canal street

 

[Frederic01]

This is normally how seasons work. Are you not familiar with this?

Don’t be so patronising, you know exactly what I mean. Quite a lot of the pieces, in fact a hefty part of the show as pointed out by Sabato himself, are made identically to the womenswear which was shown three months before.

It makes no sense that the same coat for women will be sold six months earlier than the one for men.

 

[AVC]

Don’t be so patronising, you know exactly what I mean. Quite a lot of the pieces, in fact a hefty part of the show as pointed out by Sabato himself, are made identically to the womenswear which was shown three months before.

It makes no sense that the same coat for women will be sold six months earlier than the one for men.

I actually agree with you that they should’ve been paired. But when men’s and women’s are debuted separately, whatever the reason, they wouldn’t be in stores at the same time.

And based on your take about the collection’s viability to sell, it may not matter. By all accounts Sabato will be out a of job in a month’s time.

 

[Lola701]

It's so bizarre they will wait so long to debut any pieces for the menswear with Sabato's aesthetic. You'd think he would have made a capsule by now for menswear to go alongside the womenswear? After all, some of the pieces from his FW Menswear are identical to his SS Womenswear? Make it make sense...

The thing is I suspect that the aesthetic of menswear was decided after the response of the womenswear…And there was a 4 months gap already between the two presentations.
As the menswear collection by the studio wasn’t that big, maybe they will drop ANCORA menswear earlier and actually have the same pieces for menswear and womenswear at the same time.

I don’t know if the pieces that are part of the current drop in womenswear are the ones that are identical to the menswear.

 

[Scotty]

Wait... ANCORA is no more?

 

[Frederic01]

Cringe.

EXCLUSIVE: Gucci Releases Sabato De Sarno Documentary​

Denni Hu
Fri, March 15, 2024, 12:56 AM AEDT



MEET SABATO: To properly introduce Gucci‘s creative director Sabato De Sarno to the world, the Kering-owned Florentine fashion house has released a short documentary about the designer.

Titled “Who Is Sabato De Sarno? A Gucci Story,” the 20-minute documentary was directed by Ariel Schulman and Henry Joost, New York-based filmmakers best known for their breakout documentary “Catfish,” an indie favorite, alongside two “Paranormal Activity” sequels.

Paul Mescal, an Irish actor and Gucci brand ambassador, narrated the documentary.

Full of funny yet moving, moments, the film details the hectic five days leading up to De Sarno’s runway debut while weaving together interviews with his closest creative collaborators, including music producer Mark Ronson and stylist Alastair Mckimm. De Sarno’s parents, his husband Daniele Calisti and his puppy Luce also made cameos in the documentary. The film culminated in De Sarno’s runway show, which was dubbed as “the 18 minutes to change Sabato’s life,” as Mescal narrated in the documentary.

“The film was supposed to be five minutes long but it ended up being 20 minutes because we captured so much great material,” said Schulman and Joost. “We are so grateful that he trusted us to tell his [Sabato De Sarno’s] story.”

The documentary, which was first unveiled to a group of fashion students during a special screening in Shanghai on Tuesday, will premiere on Mubi on Friday.

The film will be an essential part of the Gucci Ancora campaign, which began rolling out this week as a series of activations worldwide, including a district-wide street takeover in Shanghai. Screenings of the film in major cities will follow to help guests and VIPs better understand De Sarno’s vision at Gucci.

An Apple Vision Pro version of the documentary will be available from April 3, a first for a fashion and luxury brand. Available on the App Store, the enhanced edition of the film will provide a more immersive entertainment experience for the viewer.

In partnership with Air France, the documentary will also be available on all flights throughout the month of April.

WWD

 

[NoInvite]

Can't wait!

 

[tourbillions]

"stop trying to make ancora happen"

 

[Lola701]

That’s a new type of aggressive marketing!
They are quite funny at Kering. They don’t want to hire star designers just to force the unknown to us.
Clearly they are not getting the response they wanted from this new appointment.
How pathetic.

 

[GERGIN]

If they have to produce a documentary this early in his tenure at Gucci then it really shows how bad things are going over there…Poor Sabato.

 

[Kimihiro]

I’ll give this a chance. Not for fashion but for the BTS stuff. After all I enjoyed Dior and I; and that MGC special.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

Somebody lied to him several times and told him that Gucci Ancora was fly, hot and sexy and beautiful and it's nothing like that. It’s nothing of the sort.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

Can't wait!

It’s annoying to see someone so unjustifiably confident

 

[yslforever]

I went to the Saint-Germain-des-Prés store yesterday, it was empty while people were queuing at LV and Saint-Laurent... effectively the menswear is so different, heavily monogrammed, compared to the Ancora womenswear, but both are terribly finished, like I spotted multiple threads on buttons, buttonholes, and hems, crinkled or unsteamed fabrics, etc... And there were simple beige and ivory mens suits in horsebit jacquard but 100% polyester.
I compared also the new really small Jackie Notte at 2,980 vs the YSL mini Voltaire at 1,590 or an Evening Kate at 1,800 ... I think I saw clients checking Gucci bags then 30 minutes later going to YSL to actually buy ....