Peter Hawkings - Designer, Creative Director of Tom Ford

[vogue28]

Tom Ford announces new creative director Peter Hawkings:

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Reading that gave me a war flashback of Virginie lol. But regardless I'm excited to see how it'll turn out

 

[Lola701]

He was very instrumental in Tom’s studio and so far from Christopher Bailey to Clare Weight Keller, most of the people who have been a part of his team were talented…

Virginie was directing the atelier and bring to life Karl’s drawings. I have more faith in him than on her…

‘I just hope that it won’t be a Frida Giannini type of replacement…

‘Too bad it’s not Alexandre Vauthier but good for the brand and the studio. Menswear is the bigger entity at Tom Ford so it make sense for Peter!

‘I guess Carine will be able to keep her styling gigs at least for the beauty ads.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Oh good grief… We’re never going to be rid of Carine now, are we…??? :sigh:

 

[Salvatore]

I’m interested !

 

[LadyJunon]

The WWD article

Guillaume Jesel to Lead Tom Ford, Peter Hawkings Named Creative Director
The Estée Lauder Cos.' acquisition of Tom Ford officially closed Friday.


By Kathryn Hopkins
April 28, 2023, 12:15pm

The Estée Lauder Cos.’ ownership of Tom Ford is kicking off with high-level hires.

As it completed its acquisition of Tom Ford Friday and just days after the legendary designer released his final women’s collection, the Estée Lauder Cos. has appointed Guillaume Jesel president and chief executive officer of the brand, while Peter Hawkings has been tapped as creative director.

The Ermenegildo Zegna Group, which holds the fashion license as part of Estée Lauder’s deal — which valued the brand at $2.8 billion — has appointed a CEO of Tom Ford Fashion, who is expected to be revealed in July and assume the role in the third quarter. This role will be responsible for the collections, merchandising and production, as well as retail and wholesale distribution.

Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole will continue to serve as brand advisers through the end of the year.

Of the new leadership appointments, Ford said, “Guillaume is an exceptional leader, with not only a strong business understanding of beauty, but a great understanding of fashion as well.”

He called Hawkings, his longtime collaborator, the ideal creative director. “Peter began working with me 25 years ago as a menswear design assistant at Gucci and rapidly worked his way up to become the senior men’s designer at the company when he left to join me at the Tom Ford brand,” he continued. “He is an incredibly talented leader with tremendous industry experience, and his appointment gives me confidence that my commitment to creating fashion products with the highest level of design and quality will continue.”

As president and CEO of Tom Ford, Jesel, who has led Tom Ford Beauty since 2014 and was promoted to president of Tom Ford Beauty and Balmain Beauty in September, will have oversight across all verticals, reporting to Lauder executive leaders Jane Hertzmark Hudis, executive group president, and Tracey T. Travis, executive vice president and chief financial officer.

Jesel has helped build Tom Ford Beauty, for which Lauder has held the license since around 2005, into a major brand that is expected to achieve $1 billion in net sales annually over the next couple of years, with analysts expecting that it will soon expand into skin care and new markets.

Prior to leading Tom Ford Beauty, Jesel spent a decade with MAC Cosmetics and also served in a number of other senior roles since joining Estée Lauder in 2000, including vice president of global makeup marketing.

“Guillaume has been instrumental in shaping the luxury beauty sector of our business. His ability to articulate the Tom Ford brand has resulted in Tom Ford Beauty achieving remarkable global success, making him ideally suited to lead the Tom Ford brand into its exciting future,” said Fabrizio Freda, president and CEO of the Estée Lauder Cos.

As for Hawkings, most recently senior vice president of Tom Ford menswear, his responsibilities will include oversight of womenswear, menswear and accessory categories, assuming the role of lead designer for the fashion segment and fashion shows. He will report directly to Jesel and to the CEO of Tom Ford Fashion when that person joins.

Hawkings began his career in 1998 at Gucci under the helm of Tom Ford and worked closely with him on the development of the Gucci menswear collections. He left Gucci in 2006 to join Tom Ford in the launch of his eponymous brand, where he oversaw the design and production of menswear.

“Peter is one of the world’s most accomplished menswear designers. His design experience working under Tom Ford is unparalleled and his commitment to quality is relentless,” said Jesel. “There is no one more perfectly suited than Peter to carry the founder’s legendary creative vision into the future.”

Of the yet to be announced Tom Ford Fashion head, Ermenegildo Zegna, CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna Group, said, “We are delighted to appoint a strong leader for Tom Ford Fashion and look forward to leveraging the leader’s luxury business acumen and international experience to further grow the Tom Ford Fashion business globally.”

As part of the deal, Marcolin SpA has entered long-term license agreements for Tom Ford eyewear.

As previously announced, the Estée Lauder Cos. paid about $2.25 billion for Tom Ford, outbidding Gucci owner Kering and marking the beauty giant’s first venture into the fashion world and its biggest deal ever. The deal was funded by cash on hand and proceeds from the issuance of commercial paper, as well as $250 million received from Marcolin. An additional aggregate amount of $300 million in deferred payments from Estée Lauder to the sellers becomes due beginning in July 2025.

Recently Estée Lauder’s business has been grappling with COVID-19 cases in China, which weighed on the company during the crucial holiday season, triggering declines on both the top and bottom lines and causing it to lower its full-year profit forecast. At the time Freda said its return to growth has shifted to the fourth quarter.

One of the bright spots, however, was Tom Ford Beauty, especially in fragrances, which include Black Orchid and Tuscan Leather, helping that category enjoy double-digit growth. Lauder is no doubt betting this will only continue to grow.

The TLDR is:
• Guillaume Jesel has been the president and CEO since September. He'll oversee the whole operation.
• Peter Hawkings is the creative director and will oversee the ready-to-wear, accessories and runway collections. Hawkings had been working with Ford since 1998 at Gucci, before joining him to launch his eponymous label.
• The CEO of the fashion division has yet to be revealed. They will be responsible for the production, merchandising and distribution of the collections.
• Ford and De Sole will continue to be brand advisors until the end of the year.

 

[Mutterlein]

This was to be expected. It'll be more of the same.

 

[disco54]

Tom Ford is a very visionary and clever businessman and no fool, he knows how to hone and cultivate talent, I am sure Peter Hawkings will do a great job. He is no Virginie thats for damn sure.

 

[Lola701]

^^^ Oh good grief… We’re never going to be rid of Carine now, are we…??? :sigh:

I Hope that she won’t be involved in the shows. If Peter wants his vision to work, he needs to distance himself from her…

‘But she won’t let go styling the campaigns from such a big budget brand. I mean continuity means management knows her lol

And I’m very critical of her work but she has been very instrumental to the mythology of Tom Ford so it makes sense that she is part of the brand as a whole…

But this is a very smooth transition after the designer sold and moved on.

‘It makes me think of Helmut Lang and Margiela. They have build those brands, one very huge and one very much esteemed and while they became very rich and proved that devoting their lives to fashion didn’t mean not being able to live without it, I wonder what would have happened if they had more say in the decision.

‘Even if Renzo Rosso was shady for me regarding Margiela, I think Martin can be proud of what his brand is today. The same cannot be said about Helmut or even a lot of designers who did sold their brands.
Helmut Lang was one of the biggest, most influential designer in the world and his brand doesn’t even have a small touch of the greatness it used to be.
Bertelli and then the people who bought the brand destroyed it. From the perfumes to the jeans. Helmut Lang was the blueprint for example what Hedi Slimane is doing today.

Let’s be honest, with Estée Lauder, we know that the perfumes will maintain their positioning and the same thing with Zegna. Of course they will have outlets here and there but at least they will be in control of their production and positioning.

There are so many established that just disappeared. I think about Sonia Rykiel. She got her mini empire and then all disappeared.

 

[Mutterlein]

I Hope that she won’t be involved in the shows. If Peter wants his vision to work, he needs to distance himself from her…

‘But she won’t let go styling the campaigns from such a big budget brand. I mean continuity means management knows her lol

And I’m very critical of her work but she has been very instrumental to the mythology of Tom Ford so it makes sense that she is part of the brand as a whole…

But this is a very smooth transition after the designer sold and moved on.

‘It makes me think of Helmut Lang and Margiela. They have build those brands, one very huge and one very much esteemed and while they became very rich and proved that devoting their lives to fashion didn’t mean not being able to live without it, I wonder what would have happened if they had more say in the decision.

‘Even if Renzo Rosso was shady for me regarding Margiela, I think Martin can be proud of what his brand is today. The same cannot be said about Helmut or even a lot of designers who did sold their brands.
Helmut Lang was one of the biggest, most influential designer in the world and his brand doesn’t even have a small touch of the greatness it used to be.
Bertelli and then the people who bought the brand destroyed it. From the perfumes to the jeans. Helmut Lang was the blueprint for example what Hedi Slimane is doing today.

Let’s be honest, with Estée Lauder, we know that the perfumes will maintain their positioning and the same thing with Zegna. Of course they will have outlets here and there but at least they will be in control of their production and positioning.

There are so many established that just disappeared. I think about Sonia Rykiel. She got her mini empire and then all disappeared.

I am 110% certain she'll be styling everything as long as she's able and willing to work.

 

[brandon J pierre]

i hope to see something fresh and New

 

[mikel]

It’s like Tom had a baby with Terry Richardson.

 

[LadyJunon]

It’s like Tom had a baby with Terry Richardson.

Ew.

 

[Lola701]

I am 110% certain she'll be styling everything as long as she's able and willing to work.

My issue has less to do with her (because I love her) than what she produces. If you maintain high standards and can challenge yourself, I take it.

‘I love Carlyne for example. It’s always the best with her. She has her lane but she executes it better than anyone else.

So far for the campaigns, the Steven Klein/Carine Roitfeld collaboration worked.

 

[LadyJunon]

Peter Hawkings will show his debut collection at Milan Fashion Week.

Tom Ford to Present Spring 2024 Womenswear Collection During Milan Fashion Week

This will be the debut collection for creative director Peter Hawkings.

By LISA LOCKWOOD

JULY 6, 2023, 9:00AM

Tom Ford, which is now under the ownership of the Estée Lauder Cos., will present its spring 2024 womenswear collection during Milan Fashion Week in September. This will be the debut womenswear collection designed by Peter Hawkings, following his appointment as creative director in April.

“I am honored to have been appointed creative director of Tom Ford and to have this unique opportunity to help write the next chapter in the brand’s future. Italian craftsmanship and excellence have been a source of inspiration for our collections, and I am delighted to be showing during Milan Fashion Week,” said Hawkings.

Hawkings is not the only designer who will be debuting at Milan Fashion Week. Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno will present his first show for the brand in September. He joins from Valentino and succeeds Alessandro Michele in the role.

In November, Lauder acquired Tom Ford’s company in a deal valued at $2.8 billion. Lauder has owned Tom Ford Beauty and Tom Ford Parfums since 2006. Under Lauder, Ford’s men’s and women’s ready-to-wear is licensed to Ermenegildo Zegna Group, which previously held the license for menswear. Zegna also owns Thom Browne. Marcolin Group has the long-term license for Tom Ford Eyewear.

At the time of the acquisition’s closing in April, Lauder appointed Guillaume Jesel president and chief executive officer of Tom Ford and Hawkings creative director. A CEO of Tom Ford Fashion is expected to be revealed this month and begin in the third quarter, as reported. Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole will serve as brand advisers through the end of the year.

Hawkings, who was Ford’s longtime collaborator and has been with the brand for 17 years, was previously senior vice president of Tom Ford menswear. His new responsibilities include oversight of womenswear, menswear and accessory categories and lead designer for the fashion segment and fashion shows. He reports directly to Jesel and the new CEO of Tom Ford Fashion, when that person is hired.

Hawkings, who received a master of arts degree in menswear from Central Saint Martins, began his career in 1998 at Gucci under the helm of Ford and worked closely with him on the development of the Gucci menswear collections. He left Gucci in 2006 to join Ford that year in the launch of his eponymous brand, and oversaw the design and production of menswear, eventually adding accessories including eyewear, leather goods (bags and shoes) and jewelry.

“Peter is one of the world’s most accomplished menswear designers. His design experience working under Tom Ford is unparalleled and his commitment to quality is relentless,” said Jesel in April. “There is no one more perfectly suited than Peter to carry the founder’s legendary creative vision into the future.”

Source: WWD

 

[Nimsay]

Im skeptical. Tom dropped out after turning his brand into a Beauty House. Im expecting boring clothes that are going to be Complimentary to the perfume and makeup.

 

[Salvatore]

It’s a good move if he wants to put the house back into the fashion conversation.

 

[Mutterlein]

It’s like Tom had a baby with Terry Richardson.

 

[yslforever]

Im skeptical. Tom dropped out after turning his brand into a Beauty House. Im expecting boring clothes that are going to be Complimentary to the perfume and makeup.

But that's what happened, that's how Tom operated, he launched the namesake glasses and beauty in 2004/2005 with Marcolin and Estee Lauder, nurturing his brand and an aesthetic through the ads, but he showed his first womenswear 5 years later, in September 2010 if I recall well.

 

[Lola701]

I like this move as I expressed it in another thread.
Tom didn’t want to compete with his glorious past but I think it did hurt the potential of the brand…

Luxury fashion has a bigger voice and feels more relevant in Milan and Paris than London and NYC.

I don’t expect much surprises in the menswear because Peter is one of the architect of the Tom Ford aesthetic. I’m much more curious about the womenswear. He is not American and I expect a maybe less formulatic Tom Ford.