Peter Hawkings - Designer, Creative Director of Tom Ford

[Nimsay]

Zegna is the new Gucci Group PPR.

Though zegna is slightly worse because like tom ford cannot alter his cut at all without stepping on his “sister” companies toes. Tom literally cant produce a different lapel or even use certain materials because of the very subtle differentiations. If tom does a boucle jacket or a slim lapel suit then that throws the entire group into haywire…

Its really really tight. I personally wouldnt have even wasted time on TB and instead focused on expanding TF repertoire to fully embody a fashion tailor.

 

[kasper!]

I am surprised that no magzine did a feature about him. Elle? Vogue? Bazaar? None of them.

 

[Lola701]

I am surprised that no magzine did a feature about him. Elle? Vogue? Bazaar? None of them.

His work is hardly features-worthy….

 

[style_expert]

I am surprised that no magzine did a feature about him. Elle? Vogue? Bazaar? None of them.

They were too busy writing about Sabato

I like how smooth and more low-key the transitioning between Tom and Peter has been.
Zegna has the right approach for the brand..

 

[PDFSD]

I am surprised that no magazine did a feature about him. Elle? Vogue? Bazaar? None of them.

Because he is not a great communicator with words (to be kind) the guy has nothing to say coming from internal people there is no soul or storytelling like TF is when he talks, what you have now is just designer that is good working under a creative director ..... this industry should learn not all nr 2 can work as nr 1 ´s .....it happening at more brands already

 

[jeanclaude]

What can he talk about?? About how he makes diluted versions of TF glorious past??

 

[Lola701]

Because he is not a great communicator with words (to be kind) the guy has nothing to say coming from internal people there is no soul or storytelling like TF is when he talks, what you have now is just designer that is good working under a creative director ..... this industry should learn not all nr 2 can work as nr 1 ´s .....it happening at more brands already

Tbh, even without being a great communicator. He has not designed anything that either challenge taste, challenge the perception people have of the brand or influenced fashion.
Even if he adopted the Margiela way of communicating, his clothes needs to mean something.

Tom, good or bad always made a point for his work to have a purpose.

A parade of sexy clothes is cute, for the stores, but not really to talk about.

 

[Phuel]

^^^Expecting someone of Peter’s limited talent, mix this with corporate investors that are breathing down his neck for rapid growth, and in a fashion climate that is shamelessly becoming greedy valuing profits over creative integrity more than ever, and the reality of creative risks, innovation, and progression is more of an illusion than ever before.

This retreading of Tom’s Gucci archive offerings is expected. Frankly, I’d do the same: There’s a lot of versatility with what Tom’s established as the blueprint signatures of his line. Signature staples, that much like Ralph Lauren and Armani, will become timeless essentials for the brand. The Tom Ford brand doesn’t need a rebrand like what Alessandro did for Gucci, which BTW, wasn’t that huge of a visionary rebrand, since kidz of that fashion era, fuelled by socials and blogs, with the emergence of the dreaded influencer-plague, were already dressing like baby Edie Monsoons back then. Alessandro just capitalized on that emerging nerdy thrift-store aesthetic.

What I’d do differently, is that I’d ramp up the luxury component, and ramp up the heat on the branding; with the campaigns' and shows’ imagery smouldering, sophisticated and very adult. Because, this current image is so junior department, so Tom Ford-lite, so… designer imposter. That’s what disappoints greatly. The vision is just meek— of which can be even more offensive than tacky, and even Tom’s no stranger to premium tackiness...

 

[LadyJunon]

I really like Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, it's the first time that I've followed the brand in years. That said, he has the glaring issue of being unsure what direction he wants to take the brand in.

His debut collection starts by leaning into the brand's "prehistory" by reclaiming styles from Ford's tenure and moving the shows to Milan, while reuniting the menswear and womenswear studios in London. Both moves suggests that Hawkings want to take the brand in a more sober, heritage-centered direction. Think quiet luxury, but in Tom Ford's dialect.

Meanwhile, he has these really serious dramatic campaigns that fall more in line with Vaccarello's YSL (even the soundtrack) than Ford's more euphoric, hedonistic depictions of glamour. The backstage shoots by Seklaoui feel more on-brand than Galiegue's campaigns (regardless of how much I love them).

I feel that he's at crossroads with being respectful to the brand's codes, while being respectful to the current fashion climate of sexuality without sensuality. He already has a good base for design and storytelling, positive commercial reception (€65m in revenue in Q1 2024), the approval of his predecessor and the support of Zegna (the planned opening of 8 stores this year) without being the pressure of being a core brand. I think he can afford to "speak" a bit louder.

 

[PDFSD]

Its 2024 already, older TF work still at times look more modern and edgy than what Peter is doing now that's just the plain truth it's not as good or fresh as it should be, fashion is now infested with middle of the road nr 2´s in nr 1 positions.