In the future everyone will be world-famous for 15 minutes,' said Andy Warhol in 1968. This cliché is rooted in a specific moment, and was said of particular people. He had just manufactured a series of 'superstars' - weird, ephemeral beauties whom he filmed at his loft in now unwatchable movies.
His superstars were dysfunctional wannabes without talent but with a craving for fame, and they exist now only as footnotes to the Warhol story. Except for one. Edie Sedgwick was the original Warhol superstar, the first; yet 35 years after her drug-induced death, she is more famous than she was then, an incandescent image of youth, beauty and style who has continued to be an icon for fashion designers ever since.
When Sienna Miller cut short her boho hair two summers ago to star in Factory Girl, a film about Edie due out early next year, she started a trend that originated in Edie cutting her own hair 40 years earlier.
Edie Sedgwick's story was dissected in Jean Stein and George Plimpton's seminal 1984 book, Edie: An American Biography, which portrayed her entirely through the voices of those who knew her. This week a new volume, Edie: Girl on Fire, is published. The emphasis this time round is on photography, depicting the Edie her friends describe: the dark-haired society girl at a Harvard party before she came to New York; and the soulful hippie in California with crazy eyes, who was doing sexual favours for bikers in exchange for heroin, after she left the city.
Whatever she wore and whatever her hair colour, you could not stop looking at Edie. Like Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, real stars whose vitality and vulnerability combined to create an ephemeral magic, the images are so intense she seems to jump out off the page into the real world. You feel as if you could touch her.
Edie was born to die young. She came from a deeply dysfunctional upper-class family: her father had already been hospitalised for mental illness in his teens and warned never to have children. He had eight, of whom Edie, born in 1943, was the second youngest. He took the family off to California, where he became a rancher on land so extensive that the kids grew up to feel they had no boundaries. There were so many children that Edie's oldest sister remembers only ever having one conversation with her.