Maison Margiela Artisanal Haute Couture S/S 2024 Paris

[Scotty]

The men are a little too Victorian coal miner for me.

 

[cul8tr]

I really don't care if it's Margiela by Galliano, or Galliano by Margiela, or just Galliano by Galliano. I was waiting for a show like this for so many years and it was worth waiting! Romanticism is back, art is back, imagination is back, skills are back. I want more!

 

[dontbeadrag]

Maybe because a lot of those « hidden » Margiela sprinkles are elements John already did at his peak of glorious destruction at Dior.

It’s like saying that what the Marni guy is doing can be labeled as Marni because he is using colors.

I find this somewhat self-contradictory. If he does something that aligns somehow with Maison Margiela - he already did that in his own way, if he does that in a manner too dramatic - there is no Margiela, Galliano is doing Galliano. Either he has to do Margiela-Margiela, but erase Gallianisms, or do this, but then there is no Margiela.

The problem is that they are polar opposites of a spectrum, Martin is (was) a deconstructionist with a brutalist outlook, John is a deconstructionist for Margiela in his own romanticized bubble.
But then there also are more than 2-3-4 dimensions/spectrums/poles to fashion and personality, it cannot be reduced to 'been there, done that'.

That said, I agree that John is slightly too heavy on his own vision here. But then that is and always will be with hiring a visionary to any house. I still find this appealing and a clandestin nod to Margiela's ideas despite being very contrasting.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Sum-up of the collection ...
MEN

allocine
WOMEN :

rupaulsdragrace.fandom

 

[youthinasia]

Sum-up of the collection ...
MEN

allocine
WOMEN :

rupaulsdragrace.fandom

Prison, honey

 

[youthinasia]

I'm in love with the men's pants with the leather (I think?) bottom. How on earth is it done so flawlessly?!

Most likely coated in latex, laminate or resin with a degrade effect

 

[Mr-Dale]

I was absolutely moved to tears, we haven’t seen or experienced anything like this in eons. And, God, is fashion hungry for this. This almost feels like a swansong collection, or at least a culmination of the narrative he’s been weaving these last few years. I’m just lost for any intelligent words right now.

I’ll say this, though: I’ll respect anyone’s opinion, but I absolutely cannot understand how you can see this and even mention Drag Race. Trust me when I say love RPDR (and I feel there’s even a case to be made that it should get more credit from a fashion perspective, actually) , but y’all need to open a fashion or history book or something.

 

[fenty]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

THE COLLECTION IS FAB FAB FAB I was losing hope this couture week and Galliano gave me everything i needed: theatrics, opulence, flamboyance I COULD FAINT!

 

[GoldenPetals]

I was absolutely moved to tears, we haven’t seen or experienced anything like this in eons. And, God, is fashion hungry for this. This almost feels like a swansong collection, or at least a culmination of the narrative he’s been weaving these last few years. I’m just lost for any intelligent words right now.

I’ll say this, though: I’ll respect anyone’s opinion, but I absolutely cannot understand how you can see this and even mention Drag Race. Trust me when I say love RPDR (and I feel there’s even a case to be made that it should get more credit from a fashion perspective, actually) , but y’all need to open a fashion or history book or something.

Very much this. It's Drag Race contestants who have repeatedly, and perhaps more than any other designer, borrowed from him and name-dropped him.

Don't get it twisted.

 

[tourbillions]

i definitely see the drag race references but its really more fashion than drag race. the play with proportions and flattering such proportions. im not sure what can be more modern than actually designing couture for full bodied figures and not just making it look like a parachute fell on the wearers body.

Galliano's touch is just too strong already that he will galliano-fy any house he will design for. He is definitely not Demna that's why you will never see him just trying to recreate archives and blowing up the proportions.

 

[Tchi]

Wow this is beautiful.. Thank you Mr Galliano

 

[xodaphne]

Galliano has always been obsessed with the past. It's insane that this forum is ridiculing him for that now, after all these years.

If this collection looks irrelevant in 2024, it's because no other designers are engaging with the past with any real skill or originality. What looks fresh to most fashion people in 2024 is really just reviving the visual language of Anne-Marie Beretta or Margiela-era Hermès - no less costumey, or backward-looking, than Galliano's engagement with Baudelaire's Paris.

Not one of these looks stoops to mere imitation of historical dress. They're extravagant, yes, but they're not costumes - they're invitations to make 2024 look a little different, a little wenchier, a little sootier, a little more languid.

There must be a place for the past in fashion. Otherwise all we have left are the Paco Rabannes and the Iris van Herpens.

 

[Lola701]

I find this somewhat self-contradictory. If he does something that aligns somehow with Maison Margiela - he already did that in his own way, if he does that in a manner too dramatic - there is no Margiela, Galliano is doing Galliano. Either he has to do Margiela-Margiela, but erase Gallianisms, or do this, but then there is no Margiela.

The problem is that they are polar opposites of a spectrum, Martin is (was) a deconstructionist with a brutalist outlook, John is a deconstructionist for Margiela in his own romanticized bubble.
But then there also are more than 2-3-4 dimensions/spectrums/poles to fashion and personality, it cannot be reduced to 'been there, done that'.

That said, I agree that John is slightly too heavy on his own vision here. But then that is and always will be with hiring a visionary to any house. I still find this appealing and a clandestin nod to Margiela's ideas despite being very contrasting.

The problem with Galliano is the spirit rather than the techniques.
Someone as skilled as Galliano can interpret any other tropes of fashion like deconstruction.
But maybe what we should question is the intention. Margiela is not just a pair of Tabi shoes and oversized volumes.

This collection screamed more Westwood than Margiela and I think it has to do with his relationship with the past.

At Dior, he proved that he was totally capable of having a total rupture with the past.
As someone who has been quite interested in the RTW of Margiela, I can attest that his pieces in stores shows an inventivity and a very progressive way of doing RTW!

I personally think that the clothes he is doing at Margiela are maybe the most modern clothes he has done since the mid 00’s only because there’s this creative tension but also because Margiela clothes requires a certain type of everyday relevance.

As much as I love John and respect his genius he won’t get a pass for not respecting the spirit a house when others didn’t. RAF never got Dior! He may have designed for me, the best interpretation of the bar suit, he didn’t get Dior! Hedi may have slept in the archives of Saint Laurent, he didn’t get YSL. I can totally say that and also admit that I have pieces from this two examples in my wardrobe.

This collection would have been even greater if it was infused with the modern spirit of Margiela!

 

[Constructionist]

Halloween costume show with models walking like idiots, what a cringefest. Cheap drama for the insta yaas generation. Time to move on and maybe start designing for opera and theater.
Hopefully all the ideas presented here will be translated into a smart boutique collection.

I always look forward to your comments because you don't give a f#$k and you don't care what the herd thinks. It doesn't matter who and your pfp is just chef's kiss too. Adds that perfect amount of spice to your comments.

 

[jeanclaude]

As a whole, it feels like a trip to a cabinet of curiosities. Dark, dusty, perverse, macabre, eerie; and maybe even cursed. An asylum full of homeless weirdos making their own haute couture show.

The pleated coat made to look like corrugated cardboard is out of this world. That use of broken tulle to resemble dusty cobwebs. The hourglass skirt made of fringes, which resemble draped at first sight. Those ghost-like ombré effects on see-through dresses. The holes that remind of a hollow polka-dot print.

It´s pure madness and freedom. The dresses at the end, with that "What Ever Happened to Baby Jane?" look. I can picture a psycho Bette Davis wearing this collection, while chasing Joan Crawford with a pair of scissors.

One collection that looks more haute couture than the whole HC week. And even if I would totally edit the menswear (which I find irrelevant here); and the fact that this is pure Galliano with a Margiela tag on it...I can´t help but love it!

Dear John, you can tell me I am ugly (and that my handbag is ugly too) as much as you like...as long as you keep creating this kind of fabric treasures.

 

[Axel Mendoza]

A shame watching such terrific and poetic clothes being overshadowed by the obnoxious theatrics/styling/makeup/music.

 

[Scotty]

I was absolutely moved to tears, we haven’t seen or experienced anything like this in eons. And, God, is fashion hungry for this. This almost feels like a swansong collection, or at least a culmination of the narrative he’s been weaving these last few years. I’m just lost for any intelligent words right now.

I’ll say this, though: I’ll respect anyone’s opinion, but I absolutely cannot understand how you can see this and even mention Drag Race. Trust me when I say love RPDR (and I feel there’s even a case to be made that it should get more credit from a fashion perspective, actually) , but y’all need to open a fashion or history book or something.

Galliano's work has always been draggy. Most of these gowns are iterations of what he's done in the past. People are only realizing it now because RPDR wasn't popular or even existed when he was at Dior.

The only difference for me is the presentation. This time it feels more "queer" (I hate that word), whereas it used to feel just feminine and glamorous. I'll particularly blame that on the presence of men in my womens fashion shows - GET THEM OUT!

 

[jeanclaude]

 

[Alquimista]

In my view, Galliano don't want to be part of the fashion conversation, he don't want to be a trendsetter. I have the impression Margiela is his little chapel where he makes clothes and nothing more. Maybe I don't know something others can tell us, hows the clothes in stores, whos buying, etc.

The show was beautiful, it would be better if the models just role played without posing, and less drag queen make up. But the theme here is really about a group of people isolated, out of the regular world, they have a ghostly aspect, scary and scared. It's like Galliano invited us too see this last tribe of decadents, poetic, pathetic criatures. It reminds you of Baudelaire, symbolism, all that diaphanous poetics. It feels pessimistic about the present and nostalgic for a time where beauty mattered. And it resonates with me cause I feel the current fashion world (and the world in general) has become hostile for people like Galliano, he would rather hide with his scared and scary friends. Who wants to live in a world where groups are everything and the individual is nothing? If you won't follow the herd, you hide.

Ok, these are reflections. Fashion can make you think sometimes. Hehehe

 

[MagFan]

They are styled as antique dolls : porcelain shoulder plates, glossy "porcelain" heads, damaged fingers of full leather body dolls or gloves to look like porcelain arms body dolls. Male dolls had the same tiny waist female bodies

carmeldollshop.com