Maison Margiela Artisanal Haute Couture S/S 2024 Paris

[Page666]

post couture rumour mill

Galliano (back) to Givenchy
Alessandro Michele to Fendi
Martina Tiefenthaler to Margiela

swap them around for other interesting options

 

[gallianostan]

Galliano (back) to Givenchy

where is this being said?

 

[avonlea002]

John isn't going anywhere. He has a position most designers can only dream of.

 

[FashioNarrating]

John isn't going anywhere. He has a position most designers can only dream of.

Well I hope he is if he plans to continue

post couture rumour mill

Galliano (back) to Givenchy
Alessandro Michele to Fendi
Martina Tiefenthaler to Margiela

swap them around for other interesting options

This would be interesting. Though I doubt Galliano will work for LVMH ever again, at Givenchy he could do historically-inspired couture and it would be much more in line with the house. I'm not really a fan of Michele's approach, but rn Fendi is kind of a corporate bore, so making it a bit messier and more exciting would be fun. Martina (Demna's so-called right hand at Balenciaga) taking over Margiela would also make sense, the brand deserves someone who is actually interested in/close(r) to its ethos.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I was digging for some detailed pics and I saw they cut a look from the show Rejoice, far right row 2

 

[Lola701]

The rumors can be dead now…

23% growth in sales in 2023 driven by China and Korea. The brand is expanding.

The man is going no where!

 

[gallianostan]

The rumors can be dead now…

23% growth in sales in 2023 driven by China and Korea. The brand is expanding.

The man is going no where!

ffs

 

[LadyJunon]

ffs

Why are you upset about this?

 

[gallianostan]

Why are you upset about this?

kinda sick of him at margiela; this last couture collection made me realise he ought to be somewhere else imo. i know virtually everyone and their dog is haplessly fawning over it but i'm in the minority who thinks it went a bit overboard, especially for margiela. he should be somewhere else but probs never gonna happen lol rip

 

[LadyJunon]

kinda sick of him at margiela; this last couture collection made me realise he ought to be somewhere else imo. i know virtually everyone and their dog is haplessly fawning over it but i'm in the minority who thinks it went a bit overboard, especially for margiela. he should be somewhere else but probs never gonna happen lol rip

Make sense. Personally, I would've preferred to see him hired to revive Schiaparelli back in 2013. It would've been perfect timing too.

 

[gallianostan]

Make sense. Personally, I would've preferred to see him hired to revive Schiaparelli back in 2013. It would've been perfect timing too.

schiaparelli really is the only house sans balenciaga (and dior/givenchy but that's never gonna happen again lol) that makes complete sense for him. it's a shame diego della valle poached that vulgar texan manchild instead of john. worms for brains.

 

[Nimsay]

Galliano > Martin. Sorry guys. martin should be thrilled that John fell on hard times and ended up at his house.


MMM is the best its ever been. It went from style zeitgeist sort of banality - some of his 2010s stuff when he was peaking in popularity was no different than the Gap except it had those 4 stitches on it. To actual legitimate credible high fashion.


And yes I noticed in the street style vlogs i watch that Asians wear tons of MMM mainline.

Facts are John is making MMM into a house that can sit next to Chanel Dior Hermes… all the greats. That wouldnt happen with anyone else.

 

[Lola701]

Galliano > Martin. Sorry guys. martin should be thrilled that John fell on hard times and ended up at his house.


MMM is the best its ever been. It went from style zeitgeist sort of banality - some of his 2010s stuff when he was peaking in popularity was no different than the Gap except it had those 4 stitches on it. To actual legitimate credible high fashion.


And yes I noticed in the street style vlogs i watch that Asians wear tons of MMM mainline.

Facts are John is making MMM into a house that can sit next to Chanel Dior Hermes… all the greats. That wouldnt happen with anyone else.

They are incomparable as designers…
They have a lot in common but they are very different in their philosophy of fashion.
And Martin’s work was multilayered.

Martin wasn’t already at Margiela in the 2010’s. He left in 2008!

And MMM was never intended to be a luxury fashion house. The goal was never to be Chanel or Hermes.
What the house is today is the reflection of the ambitions of Renzo Rosso but under Martin himself, MMM was like Dries Van Noten/Isabel Marant.

 

[tourbillions]

ohn is making MMM into a house that can sit next to Chanel Dior Hermes

not sure this is a good thing. Even with the rise in sales, they're too niche to be sitting next to these brands pricewise.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

The goal was never to be Chanel or Hermes.
What the house is today is the reflection of the ambitions of Renzo Rosso but under Martin himself

Seriously though, Margiela's point was to be an anti-status designer. Growing it into a big luxury brand is just so sad and cringe. Still objectively Galliano is a creative force like no other and I like what he does there, just the business side of things is really pulling its meaning and reputation down into the gutter. Starting to weigh more on the negative side of the scale than positive for me... even the RTW shows now at Margiela are for the purpose of selling 1200 micro bags and whatever the rest of the merch is... please. It is not there yet but I'm feeling Prada's new method starting to bubble...

 

[LadyJunon]

And MMM was never intended to be a luxury fashion house. The goal was never to be Chanel or Hermes.
What the house is today is the reflection of the ambitions of Renzo Rosso but under Martin himself, MMM was like Dries Van Noten/Isabel Marant.

not sure this is a good thing. Even with the rise in sales, they're too niche to be sitting next to these brands pricewise.

Seriously though, Margiela's point was to be an anti-status designer. Growing it into a big luxury brand is just so sad and cringe. [...] Starting to weigh more on the negative side of the scale than positive for me... even the RTW shows now at Margiela are for the purpose of selling 1200 micro bags and whatever the rest of the merch is... please. It is not there yet but I'm feeling Prada's new method starting to bubble...

It's very obvious that Renzo Rosso sees Maison Margiela as the "jewel" of his group, but there's an obvious disconnect between his goals for Margiela and the realities of the brand. A brand like Margiela could easily bring in a steady 50 to 200 million, but it's way too niche to act as the group's long-term main pillar. That is unless, they bloats their numbers with makeup and fragrance licenses.

On the same train of thought, I think that Rosso is really wasting the potential of Jil Sander and Marni as they were originally built to serve very lucrative, but underserved markets: professional men and women in their 30s and 40s. Unfortunately, OTB as a group is too focused on serving "pure fashion" to really consider that customer base.

 

[Alquimista]

Seriously though, Margiela's point was to be an anti-status designer. Growing it into a big luxury brand is just so sad and cringe. Still objectively Galliano is a creative force like no other and I like what he does there, just the business side of things is really pulling its meaning and reputation down into the gutter. Starting to weigh more on the negative side of the scale than positive for me... even the RTW shows now at Margiela are for the purpose of selling 1200 micro bags and whatever the rest of the merch is... please. It is not there yet but I'm feeling Prada's new method starting to bubble...

This. I still don't understand the positive of Margiela being among the greats. It's just the result of corporatization. And it makes me think less of John's collections. Seems like he's doing the same thing he did at Dior: creating a image with great fashion shows that have little to do with the boutique's products. Which to me is the most souless thing ever.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

The proof that this collection is just nothing…
Only the goofy walk, the make-up, the set, the soundtrack made it happen.

Hunter doesn’t look good here.
If it was a Christian Siriano look people would trash it.
The fit is wrong, colors are wrong and it’s just plain ugly !

 

[gallianostan]

The proof that this collection is just nothing…
Only the goofy walk, the make-up, the set, the soundtrack made it happen.

the very uncomfortable truth... unfortunately...

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Mmmmm yeah but also proof that a full look doesn’t work in reality. I’d pair the skirt with a different top because the skirt is great. Having to hold it like that the whole time to maintain the “vibe” is dumb.

But aren’t most shows like this in general nowadays? I mean, even with older Galliano/Dior shows, wearing a full look kind of does have you looking a little heinous unless you are truly the right person for it which is hard to predict. Bit of a constant issue with him which you can’t deny.

Other issue is that Hunter nearly always ends up looking super washed out. Dara can pull some great looks, but not sure if they understand how to work with Hunter’s colouring.