Maison Margiela Artisanal Haute Couture S/S 2024 Paris

[WinstonH20]

It might look wonderful on prints and also be a wonderful wallpaper… But it seals even more this collection in a time capsule totally detached from the present.
Nothing about it feels modern. And it’s not even about the inspiration itself. It looks like a rehash rather than an homage…

I’m more excited about Meisel being a witness of his time than Recreating a rehash.

Well said. I feel like this collection only went viral because this is the only first hand experience of theatrical Galliano that fashion-obsessed millenials and Gen Z'ers have. The same people who obsessively post clips of Galliano x Dior couture shows, now have their own real-time experience of that kind of splendour.

I'm like you in that I think this collection is so detached from the present. I love Galliano and historic ism, it's who he is but this feels too self-conscious here and so detached from the RTW and Margiela in general (though I've always felt this way about Galliano x Margiela). Glad to see the balanced critiques of this collection in this thread (even from long time Galliano fans). In terms of techniques, he remains in a league of his own but as for the overall impact of this show? It feels like it was created to go viral on fashion Instagram and Tik Tok and I'm happy that it did, but it still feels somewhat like the kind of caricature of Galliano and couture (similar to McQueen and couture) that exists on social media.

 

[Lola701]

Well said. I feel like this collection only went viral because this is the only first hand experience of theatrical Galliano that fashion-obsessed millenials and Gen Z'ers have. The same people who obsessively post clips of Galliano x Dior couture shows, now have their own real-time experience of that kind of splendour.

I'm like you in that I think this collection is so detached from the present. I love Galliano and historic ism, it's who he is but this feels too self-conscious here and so detached from the RTW and Margiela in general (though I've always felt this way about Galliano x Margiela). Glad to see the balanced critiques of this collection in this thread (even from long time Galliano fans). In terms of techniques, he remains in a league of his own but as for the overall impact of this show? It feels like it was created to go viral on fashion Instagram and Tik Tok and I'm happy that it did, but it still feels somewhat like the kind of caricature of Galliano and couture (similar to McQueen and couture) that exists on social media.

What I’m afraid of is that the viral success of this collection inspires him to go even more to that route. And here we may go back to what I despise in his last few years at Dior.

That’s why I’m anticipating the FW2024 collection so much. And now they are on the wave of the Couture but it’s so confusing.


I can only imagine the number of celebrities that will go for the Pat makeup and Galliano Dragcouture for the MET!

 

[gallianostan]

That’s why I’m anticipating the FW2024 collection so much. And now they are on the wave of the Couture but it’s so confusing.

do you think they will be on the fall couture calendar or skip another season again?

 

[Lola701]

do you think they will be on the fall couture calendar or skip another season again?

I wonder first what happened to the RTW and menswear for FW2024.

They are so inconsistent with their showings that I don’t know what to expect.
I’m curious to know if since Galliano took over, Margiela is operating much more like a Couture house. That means, showing clothes that are aimed to be purchased by clients, and not only making up for the marketing budget.

 

[gallianostan]

i can't see how skipping a rtw season is great for business. i understand forgoing the conventional couture schedule and having a one-off spectacle show every year but missing rtw shows... that is not good lmao

 

[tourbillions]

i think i read somewhere that this collection took a year to make. I guess they will present the next one whenever ready. But they didn't even make a lookbook for RTW?

 

[gallianostan]

struggling to see how this took a whole year to make when some of his best, most conceptual and assiduously intricate collections at both dior and his own label took less than six months... but fair enough

 

[tourbillions]

i dont think margiela has the same number of employees who work on the collection as dior did

 

[gallianostan]

i dont think margiela has the same number of employees who work on the collection as dior did

they certainly have more than the galliano label did, where he produced work that was far more considered and detailed than this

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I think they're only doing 1 RTW and 1 couture show a year now. That's been the pattern. And it looks like the last one generated enough buzz to keep the brand in people's consciousness for long enough to get them to buy whatever the latest merch is.

 

[lookatme]

For me - as much as I absolutely love(d) this collection and show, the styling is always the issue for Galliano's Margiela. The clothes are absolutely so good. That's not the problem.

When I look at the Margiela website and see the merchandise in an e-com setting, it's very clear how strong, well-made, considered and desirable even the most commercial pieces are. They have a great team putting out great product. It looks like real designer clothing.

So - when I see the catwalk shows, as much as they can be fun, or inspirational or creative...I really wish it could be put together in a bit more straight forward way, like it is on e-com. It would feel truer to the Margiela spirit that way, I think.

 

[Alquimista]

Beautiful presentation but the collection is mediocre.

But i don't want to be harsh to Galliano cause I don't think he wants to be a trendsetter anymore.

 

[Lola701]

they certainly have more than the galliano label did, where he produced work that was far more considered and detailed than this

Yeah but it’s incomparable. You know that during his heydays at Dior, there was no expense or what so ever. And they could bring extra workers just for the show collection because ultimately, the RTW was produced in very limited quantities and they had a few licences.
And I think Margiela’s métiers d’Arts are all integrated.
The LVMH machine opens access to all the suppliers around beyond John’s usual collaborators.

Something that wasn’t that talked about is the Louboutin collaboration. It’s such a full circle moment. He was in the audience at the 1994 show, as a fairly young shoemaker but already important Parisian figure and now he is collaborating with John.

 

[Phuel]

For me - as much as I absolutely love(d) this collection and show, the styling is always the issue for Galliano's Margiela. The clothes are absolutely so good. That's not the problem.

When I look at the Margiela website and see the merchandise in an e-com setting, it's very clear how strong, well-made, considered and desirable even the most commercial pieces are. They have a great team putting out great product. It looks like real designer clothing.

So - when I see the catwalk shows, as much as they can be fun, or inspirational or creative...I really wish it could be put together in a bit more straight forward way, like it is on e-com. It would feel truer to the Margiela spirit that way, I think.

The show’s styling is to die for. It’s best when it’s shown against the glistening, stark, blinding white halls of a runway. He’s the last of the Greats standing, and still producing pure high fashion toxins that's pure visual bliss.

Galliano’s Margiela shows have been consistently strong in its presentation, styling, hair/makeup design, and don’t even mind the casting: We’re not in decent times anymore where the cast can master the theatrics and the worldcreating pulse that once dominated his own namesake and at Dior. The guys cast at his Margiela are a tad awkward, gangly, and dorky if I’m being kind— but they’re not a gormless, nondescript bunch that’s lazily just headcount at all these shows now. The surreal Madhatter-styling may be suffocating at times, burying the very masterclass gems that’s easy to understand on the site. And that’s the magic of the shows that are a separate entity from e-commerce, that once upon time, swept us far far far away to fashion heaven: To conjure imageries of lives, characters, even worlds that are not of our time, our era, and even our plane. Nowadays, it’s a cast of charmless timid children aimlessly scurrying amongst an oversized maze of silly art installations/sculptures/sets that never relate to the fashions. Or stunt casting. Or headcounts. Or faux-activism on a $2,000 tee….

I wouldn’t wear Galliano if I were a woman— but I would definitely wear Galliano’s Margiela if I were.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

More official images


source: Maison Margiela

 

[Phuel]

^^^ LMFAO Gwendoline’s Disney Princess Snow White prancing just ruins the crookity, creaky, creepy doll vibe that the rest of the cast possessed.

 

[lookatme]

^^She is kind of annoying. And her in the Vogue video is also kind of cringe. Too much fangirling and glazing. Feels try hard and corny.

 

[Kanzai]

The menswear look silly as always, never been a fan of his men's clothings.

 

[gallianostan]

it's so sad that THIS is going to be the defining fashion moment for a whole generation, and their first real introduction to john's work. ugh i hate it here. just release the hd cuts of his old shows and stream them on youtube because this ain't it i'm afraid

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Wishful thinking but I hope the RTW contains some kind of Rene Lalique type costume jewelry. Might be too on the nose but I need it