Maison Margiela Artisanal Haute Couture S/S 2024 Paris

[eugenius]

I can only imagine the number of celebrities that will go for the Pat makeup and Galliano Dragcouture for the MET!

Be careful for what you ask for. Cardi B duplicated the look, and it just looked like weird goo on her face, and not make-up designed to look like actual porcelain.

I haven’t seen much re: the Stephen Jones headpieces. I think his work was just as creative as Pat’s make-up, but I get how millinery wouldn’t pique much interest. Eh, c’est la vie.

 

[gallianostan]

I haven’t seen much re: the Stephen Jones headpieces. I think his work was just as creative as Pat’s make-up, but I get how millinery wouldn’t pique much interest.

stephen jones is and always has been the unsung hero of galliano's entire career. i think he's probably the second most important ingredient, followed by pat's brilliant makeup. he's a genius

 

[LadyJunon]

it's so sad that THIS is going to be the defining fashion moment for a whole generation, and their first real introduction to john's work. ugh i hate it here. just release the hd cuts of his old shows and stream them on youtube because this ain't it i'm afraid

To be fair, it is a good collection, a very good collection. The issue is that it's in the context of Galliano. His shows from '95 - '07 were the sort of shows that left spectators permanently bald. Someone needs to upload shows of Galliano's Givenchy and first years at Dior.

 

[BitterFashionQueen90]

^^She is kind of annoying. And her in the Vogue video is also kind of cringe. Too much fangirling and glazing. Feels try hard and corny.

Couldn’t agree more. Suddenly she’s some fashion academic. So forced. All I can think of when I see her is Thom Browne….

 

[Phuel]

To be fair, it is a good collection, a very good collection. The issue is that it's in the context of Galliano. His shows from '95 - '07 were the sort of shows that left spectators permanently bald. Someone needs to upload shows of Galliano's Givenchy and first years at Dior.

I enjoy Galliano’s Margiela much more than John Galliano and his Dior, frankly. He’s much more restrained, subversive, humble, and at the same time, more confrontational. At his mature age, he’s mustered the will in challenging the masterclass couturery conventions and hierarchy— but not in trolling, exhibitionist and easier way that someone like Demna is. And he’s challenging himself and deconstructing his own sensibilities that have made him Great— again. And the results are still high fashion— maybe even higher fashion still. Margiela is what he needed, and he’s what Margiela needed.

Had he continued on the trajectory at Dior, unsullied by his fall from fashion grace that forced him to rethink his creative vision (and his life), he would have become this gaudy, self-important Seigfried and Roy of high fashion, and we’d likely be cringing at WTF happened to Galliano’s vision of women that had turned women and womenswear into OTT couture drag costumes and shows. And I never got the impression he meant it in a fun way...

 

[gallianostan]

and we’d likely be cringing at WTF happened to Galliano’s vision of women that had turned women and womenswear into OTT couture drag costumes and shows. And I never got the impression he meant it in a fun way...

i'd definitely agree that this is what happened in the last four years he was at dior, but the years 1993-2006, both at dior and his own label, eclipses virtually everything he's done at margiela

 

[gallianostan]

i think this is probably his best collection at the house: Maison Margiela Fall 2018 Couture Collection

 

[tourbillions]

i found his earlier margiela too de-constructed to the point that you cant identify the clothes anymore. was difficult to figure out what they were supposed to be and how to even wear them. Since the last coed show up to this viral artisinal collection he finally found the balance to be in his de-constructed vibe but at the same time make the clothes look like clothes. This last artisinal show had such a great focus on couture techniques and silhouettes that he didn't need to resort to his usual "more volume = couture"

 

[gallianostan]

while i think this artisanal collection dips slightly too far in the past, here's one of his greatest and most modern (over twenty years ago!)

 

[avonlea002]

I still don't like this collection, all the social media raving made it even worse for me. The garments alone are interesting but the suffocating styling and cringe modeling make them hard to appreciate. The way he used Vionnet references is very lazy. The execution is impressive though, the Margiela atelier must be incredibly skilled.

 

[tourbillions]

while i think this artisanal collection dips slightly too far in the past, here's one of his greatest and most modern (over twenty years ago!)

always love his soundtrack choices. it has happened before to me though that i felt past collections where better than current ones only because its hard to disect the details of the past collections so half of the details are from my imagination. unlike when presented with modern collections with hd pictures then it can look less impressive.

Wonder how well his dior sold.

 

[LadyJunon]

always love his soundtrack choices. it has happened before to me though that i felt past collections where better than current ones only because its hard to disect the details of the past collections so half of the details are from my imagination. unlike when presented with modern collections with hd pictures then it can look less impressive.

Wonder how well his dior sold.

Probably quite well considering that he was there for 15 years. I imagine that sales started to slow down at around 2007/08. That's when they started pushing the really coquette 50s look that plagued the end of his tenure.

 

[Kanzai]

NO MORE TWINK CLOTHES ! NO MORE GOOFY CORSET ON MALE MODEL !

 

[gallianostan]

always love his soundtrack choices.

jeremy healy's mixes will haunt me forever. he's a god

 

[Lola701]

Probably quite well considering that he was there for 15 years. I imagine that sales started to slow down at around 2007/08. That's when they started pushing the really coquette 50s look that plagued the end of his tenure.

Actually, the change of direction was strategic and not a reaction to the sales. The Dior Addict years were successful but they were worried that it could hurt the image of Dior on the long term.
The wake-up call was the RTW FW2004 of course because the reviews were so-so…
The following collection, Dior showed a trunk show (literally) with his sections. And from FW2005, they really started to change the strategy.
It happened seamlessly in reality. The back to basic era was started as a connection with John 10 years and Dior anniversary.

The sales may have slowed in maybe the last 2 years of his tenure but in reality, the 1950’s look was quite a clever idea because when the crisis happened and all the brands started to restructure and think about their codes, John has already done the transition. That’s when the Lady Dior started to be part of the narrative again…

The sad thing is that John’s demons took a huge part of his life when Steven died.

But the 1950´s look was a success. And I was quite impressed by how overnight they changed their clientele. First Lady Carla Bruni as an unofficial ambassador did helped I guess…

 

[tourbillions]

always wondered why they transition as i noticed a big change in silhouettes from his earlier dior and later collections. his earlier collections were very sl*tty couture girl vibes then she grown up to be a housemaker and sported the 50's look.

 

[gallianostan]

always wondered why they transition as i noticed a big change in silhouettes from his earlier dior and later collections. his earlier collections were very sl*tty couture girl vibes then she grown up to be a housemaker and sported the 50's look.

i think there were a lot of reasons... the transition coincided with john's tenth anniversary at the house and sixty years since its founding. the recession began at the end of 2007 too, which effectively put a stop to the kind of carefree, feverish excess that characterised his earlier collections. the death of steven robinson was also an enormous factor, paired with what must have been increasing commercial pressure for dior to expand globally. but it's certain that john was in a creative rut and i'm sure that the decision to plunge head-first into the dior archives and recreate endless, tired variations of the new look was at least somewhat self-inflicted. he just changed fundamentally after 2007. the dior woman turned from a young, globetrotting and sexually liberated socialite into a dowdy 50s drag housewife.