Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2022 Paris

[TZ001]

Dior Sparks Online Criticism for Traditional Chinese Dressing Design – WWD

 

[aracic]

^Key word being online criticism. Since when is it so outrageous to reference traditional costumes in high fashion? So many memorable hf looks are based on traditional wear of cultures that have nothing to do with the brand or the designer personally. It takes an educated eye to catch that this skirt has the same construction as the Ma Mian Skirt, but to a casual observer it really does speak more grunge schoolgirl than anything else.

 

[Mutterlein]

^Key word being online criticism. Since when is it so outrageous to reference traditional costumes in high fashion? So many memorable hf looks are based on traditional wear of cultures that have nothing to do with the brand or the designer personally. It takes an educated eye to catch that this skirt has the same construction as the Ma Mian Skirt, but to a casual observer it really does speak more grunge schoolgirl than anything else.

In many cases, I can understand why the commercialization of an ethnic group's textile and costume traditions is not only exploitative but also disrespectful to the values and beliefs those textiles and garments represent.

Hence why Chanel's war bonnet, created for one of their metiers d'art collections, was inappropriate---despite the fact that they were giving it praise and respect by recreating it with French savoir-faire. That a European fashion brand would repurpose a sacred object as a showy fashion accessory is unacceptable. Not to mention that in its tone-deafness it stirred up painful memories of America's expansionist history. Even good intentions can result in a blunder.

But I don't think that is what is happening here.

At the risk of sounding dismissive and close-minded, I simply think the similarity is a coincidence. But I don't know enough about Ma Mian skirts to be totally confident in that analysis.

To me, the news here isn't whether or not Dior is referencing a Ming dynasty skirt (unlikely as I believe their design studio can come up with ideas for an A-line pleated skirt on their own) but that you have a nationalist, activist demographic in China that is heavily scrutinizing Western products and marketing. It marks a shift in the Chinese consumer mindset; more cynical and less enamored with Western brands. There's an aggressive watchdog that they now need to contend with and anticipate.

Obviously, their Chinese customers didn't seem to mind as the skirt is already sold out but accusations like this can build up, tarnish their brand, and create a lot of damage over time.

@aracic It may take an educated western eye to see a similarity between the skirts or it may only take a Chinese one.

 

[JohannesL]

LOL at this basic side pleated A-line skirt which has been done many times by many mass-market brands. They should have considered slapping "j'aime la chine" over the skirt to shut the Chinese up!

 

[Mathewthew]

I remember somewhere they are angry because somewhere Dior said it's their classic style.

 

[gallianostan]

Dior Sparks Online Criticism for Traditional Chinese Dressing Design – WWD

just wait till they see this!

 

[Caffeine]

I remember somewhere they are angry because somewhere Dior said it's their classic style.

I mean, isn't it a basic pleat style?

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I mean, isn't it a basic pleat style?

There's a near exact style variation of this in Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting book. Honestly didn't expect pleats to be such a pressing issue...